`98 TJ Still Overheating
08-06-2006, 05:46 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
The problem with stop-leak products is that they don't know when to stop so
they try to plug everything including the water passages.
If you must try something the safest thing I have used is the powdered
aluminum or brass stuff, you add a bit at a time until the leak stops.
I'm serious about the Prestone.... DexCool will damage your cooling
system....
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ZxnBg.10904$l7.10598@bignews5.bellsouth.net.. .
>
>
> billy ray wrote:
>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> to get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>
>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>
>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> of a 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> goes there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> system because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow
>> at a higher rate.
>>
>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> clamps,a radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic
>> thing (female hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing
>> machine hose you can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99
>> cents).
>>
>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty
>> bad shape.
>>
>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> coolant. DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade
>> to the new G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The
>> only supplier to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the
>> gold jug.
>>
>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> generic brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products
>> are DexCool or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you
>> against its use.
>>
>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>
>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> effect.
>>
>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with
>> the appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> concentration will be.
>>
>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> in ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> (who have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>
>>
>>
>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>> thing I know to do.
>>
>>
>
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" or
> some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
they try to plug everything including the water passages.
If you must try something the safest thing I have used is the powdered
aluminum or brass stuff, you add a bit at a time until the leak stops.
I'm serious about the Prestone.... DexCool will damage your cooling
system....
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ZxnBg.10904$l7.10598@bignews5.bellsouth.net.. .
>
>
> billy ray wrote:
>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> to get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>
>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>
>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> of a 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> goes there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> system because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow
>> at a higher rate.
>>
>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> clamps,a radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic
>> thing (female hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing
>> machine hose you can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99
>> cents).
>>
>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty
>> bad shape.
>>
>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> coolant. DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade
>> to the new G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The
>> only supplier to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the
>> gold jug.
>>
>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> generic brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products
>> are DexCool or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you
>> against its use.
>>
>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>
>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> effect.
>>
>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with
>> the appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> concentration will be.
>>
>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> in ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> (who have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>
>>
>>
>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>> thing I know to do.
>>
>>
>
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" or
> some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
08-06-2006, 05:46 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
The problem with stop-leak products is that they don't know when to stop so
they try to plug everything including the water passages.
If you must try something the safest thing I have used is the powdered
aluminum or brass stuff, you add a bit at a time until the leak stops.
I'm serious about the Prestone.... DexCool will damage your cooling
system....
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ZxnBg.10904$l7.10598@bignews5.bellsouth.net.. .
>
>
> billy ray wrote:
>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> to get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>
>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>
>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> of a 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> goes there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> system because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow
>> at a higher rate.
>>
>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> clamps,a radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic
>> thing (female hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing
>> machine hose you can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99
>> cents).
>>
>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty
>> bad shape.
>>
>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> coolant. DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade
>> to the new G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The
>> only supplier to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the
>> gold jug.
>>
>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> generic brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products
>> are DexCool or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you
>> against its use.
>>
>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>
>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> effect.
>>
>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with
>> the appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> concentration will be.
>>
>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> in ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> (who have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>
>>
>>
>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>> thing I know to do.
>>
>>
>
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" or
> some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
they try to plug everything including the water passages.
If you must try something the safest thing I have used is the powdered
aluminum or brass stuff, you add a bit at a time until the leak stops.
I'm serious about the Prestone.... DexCool will damage your cooling
system....
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ZxnBg.10904$l7.10598@bignews5.bellsouth.net.. .
>
>
> billy ray wrote:
>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> to get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>
>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>
>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> of a 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> goes there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> system because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow
>> at a higher rate.
>>
>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> clamps,a radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic
>> thing (female hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing
>> machine hose you can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99
>> cents).
>>
>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty
>> bad shape.
>>
>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> coolant. DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade
>> to the new G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The
>> only supplier to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the
>> gold jug.
>>
>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> generic brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products
>> are DexCool or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you
>> against its use.
>>
>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>
>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> effect.
>>
>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with
>> the appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> concentration will be.
>>
>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> in ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> (who have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>
>>
>>
>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>> thing I know to do.
>>
>>
>
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" or
> some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
08-06-2006, 05:46 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
The problem with stop-leak products is that they don't know when to stop so
they try to plug everything including the water passages.
If you must try something the safest thing I have used is the powdered
aluminum or brass stuff, you add a bit at a time until the leak stops.
I'm serious about the Prestone.... DexCool will damage your cooling
system....
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ZxnBg.10904$l7.10598@bignews5.bellsouth.net.. .
>
>
> billy ray wrote:
>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> to get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>
>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>
>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> of a 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> goes there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> system because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow
>> at a higher rate.
>>
>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> clamps,a radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic
>> thing (female hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing
>> machine hose you can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99
>> cents).
>>
>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty
>> bad shape.
>>
>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> coolant. DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade
>> to the new G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The
>> only supplier to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the
>> gold jug.
>>
>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> generic brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products
>> are DexCool or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you
>> against its use.
>>
>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>
>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> effect.
>>
>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with
>> the appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> concentration will be.
>>
>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> in ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> (who have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>
>>
>>
>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>> thing I know to do.
>>
>>
>
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" or
> some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
they try to plug everything including the water passages.
If you must try something the safest thing I have used is the powdered
aluminum or brass stuff, you add a bit at a time until the leak stops.
I'm serious about the Prestone.... DexCool will damage your cooling
system....
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ZxnBg.10904$l7.10598@bignews5.bellsouth.net.. .
>
>
> billy ray wrote:
>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> to get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>
>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>
>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> of a 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> goes there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> system because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow
>> at a higher rate.
>>
>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> clamps,a radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic
>> thing (female hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing
>> machine hose you can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99
>> cents).
>>
>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty
>> bad shape.
>>
>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> coolant. DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade
>> to the new G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The
>> only supplier to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the
>> gold jug.
>>
>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> generic brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products
>> are DexCool or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you
>> against its use.
>>
>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>
>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> effect.
>>
>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with
>> the appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> concentration will be.
>>
>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> in ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> (who have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>
>>
>>
>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>> thing I know to do.
>>
>>
>
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" or
> some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
08-06-2006, 06:56 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I may have missed the post where you said you checked it, but have you
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
08-06-2006, 06:56 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I may have missed the post where you said you checked it, but have you
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
08-06-2006, 06:56 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I may have missed the post where you said you checked it, but have you
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
08-06-2006, 06:56 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I may have missed the post where you said you checked it, but have you
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
checked your clutch fan? Simply rung the vehicle until it is up to temp, and
---- it off. Check the clutch by trying to turn the fan blades by hand. If
you can turn it the clutch is shot, which will cause the fan to turn too
slow when the clutch is trying to engage. Usually when running the heater
cools the temps down, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator,
but not always.
Chris
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> '98 6-cyl Manual
>
> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> I know to do.
08-06-2006, 08:10 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but with a
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
08-06-2006, 08:10 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but with a
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
08-06-2006, 08:10 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but with a
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
