billy ray

Valvoline clearly labels its Zerex brand coolants in large letters on the
front label and as it is the only supplier of G-05 you most likely haven't
got it. Visually it comes in a gold colored jug and is pale yellow in
color.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10

If you want the old style American Green Zerex now calls it Original Formula
and it comes in a white jug.


If the label says Prestone or Peak it is DexCool or based on DexCool.

FWIW: I found Zerex G-05 at PepBoys


"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>

billy ray

Valvoline clearly labels its Zerex brand coolants in large letters on the
front label and as it is the only supplier of G-05 you most likely haven't
got it. Visually it comes in a gold colored jug and is pale yellow in
color.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10

If you want the old style American Green Zerex now calls it Original Formula
and it comes in a white jug.


If the label says Prestone or Peak it is DexCool or based on DexCool.

FWIW: I found Zerex G-05 at PepBoys


"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>

billy ray

Valvoline clearly labels its Zerex brand coolants in large letters on the
front label and as it is the only supplier of G-05 you most likely haven't
got it. Visually it comes in a gold colored jug and is pale yellow in
color.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10

If you want the old style American Green Zerex now calls it Original Formula
and it comes in a white jug.


If the label says Prestone or Peak it is DexCool or based on DexCool.

FWIW: I found Zerex G-05 at PepBoys


"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>

Troy

Is it overheating while idle or while running? It could possibly be the
head gasket if all else checks out, after you install yer new radiator. I
just finished chasing down an overheating issue on my xj, and my gf's tj.
My tj hasn't had any cooling issues yet but I'm suprised after all the
muddin' I do.

Troy

"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>

Troy

Is it overheating while idle or while running? It could possibly be the
head gasket if all else checks out, after you install yer new radiator. I
just finished chasing down an overheating issue on my xj, and my gf's tj.
My tj hasn't had any cooling issues yet but I'm suprised after all the
muddin' I do.

Troy

"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>

Troy

Is it overheating while idle or while running? It could possibly be the
head gasket if all else checks out, after you install yer new radiator. I
just finished chasing down an overheating issue on my xj, and my gf's tj.
My tj hasn't had any cooling issues yet but I'm suprised after all the
muddin' I do.

Troy

"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>

Troy

Is it overheating while idle or while running? It could possibly be the
head gasket if all else checks out, after you install yer new radiator. I
just finished chasing down an overheating issue on my xj, and my gf's tj.
My tj hasn't had any cooling issues yet but I'm suprised after all the
muddin' I do.

Troy

"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>

philthy

yea well it take's me 3 times telling my kids to do chores if u know what i mean

Troy wrote:

> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> > make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> > with a
> > little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> > air thru
> > rad.
> >
> > GTK wrote:
> >
> >> billy ray wrote:
> >> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
> >> > try
> >> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
> >> > to
> >> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >> >
> >> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >> >
> >> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
> >> > of a
> >> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
> >> > goes
> >> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
> >> > system
> >> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> >> > higher rate.
> >> >
> >> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
> >> > clamps,a
> >> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
> >> > (female
> >> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
> >> > you
> >> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >> >
> >> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
> >> > chemically
> >> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
> >> > pretty bad
> >> > shape.
> >> >
> >> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
> >> > coolant.
> >> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
> >> > new
> >> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
> >> > supplier
> >> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >> >
> >> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
> >> > generic
> >> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
> >> > DexCool
> >> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
> >> > its
> >> > use.
> >> >
> >> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
> >> > Valvoline
> >> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >> >
> >> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> >> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> >> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
> >> > effect.
> >> >
> >> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
> >> > with the
> >> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> >> > concentration will be.
> >> >
> >> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
> >> > in
> >> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
> >> > (who
> >> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
> >> >> thing
> >> >> I know to do.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> >> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> >> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> >> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
> >

philthy

yea well it take's me 3 times telling my kids to do chores if u know what i mean

Troy wrote:

> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> > make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> > with a
> > little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> > air thru
> > rad.
> >
> > GTK wrote:
> >
> >> billy ray wrote:
> >> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
> >> > try
> >> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
> >> > to
> >> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >> >
> >> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >> >
> >> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
> >> > of a
> >> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
> >> > goes
> >> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
> >> > system
> >> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> >> > higher rate.
> >> >
> >> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
> >> > clamps,a
> >> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
> >> > (female
> >> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
> >> > you
> >> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >> >
> >> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
> >> > chemically
> >> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
> >> > pretty bad
> >> > shape.
> >> >
> >> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
> >> > coolant.
> >> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
> >> > new
> >> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
> >> > supplier
> >> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >> >
> >> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
> >> > generic
> >> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
> >> > DexCool
> >> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
> >> > its
> >> > use.
> >> >
> >> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
> >> > Valvoline
> >> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >> >
> >> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> >> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> >> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
> >> > effect.
> >> >
> >> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
> >> > with the
> >> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> >> > concentration will be.
> >> >
> >> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
> >> > in
> >> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
> >> > (who
> >> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
> >> >> thing
> >> >> I know to do.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> >> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> >> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> >> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
> >

philthy

yea well it take's me 3 times telling my kids to do chores if u know what i mean

Troy wrote:

> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> > make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> > with a
> > little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> > air thru
> > rad.
> >
> > GTK wrote:
> >
> >> billy ray wrote:
> >> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
> >> > try
> >> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
> >> > to
> >> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >> >
> >> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >> >
> >> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
> >> > of a
> >> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
> >> > goes
> >> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
> >> > system
> >> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> >> > higher rate.
> >> >
> >> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
> >> > clamps,a
> >> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
> >> > (female
> >> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
> >> > you
> >> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >> >
> >> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
> >> > chemically
> >> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
> >> > pretty bad
> >> > shape.
> >> >
> >> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
> >> > coolant.
> >> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
> >> > new
> >> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
> >> > supplier
> >> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >> >
> >> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
> >> > generic
> >> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
> >> > DexCool
> >> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
> >> > its
> >> > use.
> >> >
> >> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
> >> > Valvoline
> >> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >> >
> >> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> >> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> >> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
> >> > effect.
> >> >
> >> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
> >> > with the
> >> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> >> > concentration will be.
> >> >
> >> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
> >> > in
> >> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
> >> > (who
> >> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
> >> >> thing
> >> >> I know to do.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> >> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> >> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> >> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
> >