`98 TJ Still Overheating
08-06-2006, 08:10 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but with a
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru
rad.
GTK wrote:
> billy ray wrote:
> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try
> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to
> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
> >
> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
> >
> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a
> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes
> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system
> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
> > higher rate.
> >
> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a
> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female
> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you
> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
> >
> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically
> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad
> > shape.
> >
> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant.
> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new
> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier
> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
> >
> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic
> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool
> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its
> > use.
> >
> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline
> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
> >
> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect.
> >
> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the
> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
> > concentration will be.
> >
> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in
> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who
> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing
> >> I know to do.
> >
> >
>
> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
08-07-2006, 02:18 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
08-07-2006, 02:18 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
08-07-2006, 02:18 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
08-07-2006, 02:18 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
responded about it...
Troy
"philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
> with a
> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
> air thru
> rad.
>
> GTK wrote:
>
>> billy ray wrote:
>> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>> > try
>> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>> > to
>> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>> >
>> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>> >
>> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>> > of a
>> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>> > goes
>> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>> > system
>> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>> > higher rate.
>> >
>> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>> > clamps,a
>> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>> > (female
>> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>> > you
>> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>> >
>> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>> > chemically
>> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>> > pretty bad
>> > shape.
>> >
>> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>> > coolant.
>> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>> > new
>> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>> > supplier
>> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>> >
>> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>> > generic
>> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>> > DexCool
>> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>> > its
>> > use.
>> >
>> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>> > Valvoline
>> > Zerex brand in the white jug.
>> >
>> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>> > effect.
>> >
>> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>> > with the
>> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>> > concentration will be.
>> >
>> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>> > in
>> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>> > (who
>> > have their own spec) say otherwise.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>> >> '98 6-cyl Manual
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>> >> thing
>> >> I know to do.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
08-08-2006, 06:50 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
08-08-2006, 06:50 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
08-08-2006, 06:50 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
08-08-2006, 06:50 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to
find either reference on a bottle.
Troy wrote:
> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
> responded about it...
>
> Troy
>
>
> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>> with a
>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>> air thru
>> rad.
>>
>> GTK wrote:
>>
>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>> try
>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush'
>>>> to
>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>
>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>
>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use
>>>> of a
>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>> goes
>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>> system
>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>> higher rate.
>>>>
>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>> clamps,a
>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>> (female
>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>> you
>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>
>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>> chemically
>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>> pretty bad
>>>> shape.
>>>>
>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>> coolant.
>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>> new
>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>> supplier
>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>
>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>> generic
>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>> DexCool
>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>> its
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>> Valvoline
>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>
>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>> effect.
>>>>
>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>> with the
>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it
>>>> in
>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>> (who
>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced
>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the
>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit
>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>> thing
>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>
>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products
>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld?
>
>
08-08-2006, 10:51 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Valvoline clearly labels its Zerex brand coolants in large letters on the
front label and as it is the only supplier of G-05 you most likely haven't
got it. Visually it comes in a gold colored jug and is pale yellow in
color.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10
If you want the old style American Green Zerex now calls it Original Formula
and it comes in a white jug.
If the label says Prestone or Peak it is DexCool or based on DexCool.
FWIW: I found Zerex G-05 at PepBoys
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>
front label and as it is the only supplier of G-05 you most likely haven't
got it. Visually it comes in a gold colored jug and is pale yellow in
color.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10
If you want the old style American Green Zerex now calls it Original Formula
and it comes in a white jug.
If the label says Prestone or Peak it is DexCool or based on DexCool.
FWIW: I found Zerex G-05 at PepBoys
"GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once
> engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too.
>
> How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find
> either reference on a bottle.
>
> Troy wrote:
>> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
>> responded about it...
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
>> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message
>> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET...
>>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but
>>> with a
>>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll
>>> air thru
>>> rad.
>>>
>>> GTK wrote:
>>>
>>>> billy ray wrote:
>>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to
>>>>> try
>>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a
>>>>> 'flush' to
>>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'??
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the
>>>>> use of a
>>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing
>>>>> goes
>>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain
>>>>> system
>>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a
>>>>> higher rate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees,
>>>>> clamps,a
>>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing
>>>>> (female
>>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose
>>>>> you
>>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents).
>>>>>
>>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and
>>>>> chemically
>>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in
>>>>> pretty bad
>>>>> shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green"
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the
>>>>> new
>>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only
>>>>> supplier
>>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most
>>>>> generic
>>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are
>>>>> DexCool
>>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against
>>>>> its
>>>>> use.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from
>>>>> Valvoline
>>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug.
>>>>>
>>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always
>>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and
>>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive
>>>>> effect.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off
>>>>> with the
>>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final
>>>>> concentration will be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use
>>>>> it in
>>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda
>>>>> (who
>>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. .
>>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct
>>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still
>>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions.
>>>>>> Replaced
>>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone,
>>>>>> albeit
>>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last
>>>>>> thing
>>>>>> I know to do.
>>>>>
>>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld"
>>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had
>>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these
>>>> products
>>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid
>>>> weld?
>>