JimG

> Short in the wiring between the gauge and sender?

No, that would show a full tank all the time when all connected up. He says
it shows full with the pink wire loose:

> I left it off and started the jeep to
> see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the fuel
> gauge spiked.

Easy enough to check - measure the pink wire for the 20 ohms under the dash
all the way back to the sender (with the pink wire off the back of the
gauge).

JimG

travis

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 03:08:40 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com>
shared the following:

>Man... nice carpet!

heh heh



--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
Do unto others. Then split.
Happy trails!!!
:wq!

travis

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 03:08:40 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com>
shared the following:

>Man... nice carpet!

heh heh



--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
Do unto others. Then split.
Happy trails!!!
:wq!

travis

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 03:08:40 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com>
shared the following:

>Man... nice carpet!

heh heh



--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
Do unto others. Then split.
Happy trails!!!
:wq!

JimG

> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in
the
> monsterslayer site.

Improper use of terms - you should say "connected" the pink wire from the
sender to the gauge.

Now I am a little confused - what do mean when you say spiked? Are you
saying with all wires hooked up it reads full? What does it read with the
pink wire disconnected from the back of the gauge?

If the gauge is made for the OEM cluster, you can be sure the posts are not
reversed.

JimG


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4cBDb.317$gx.27@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in
the
> monsterslayer site. Not to check the ohms...to see if the gauge would
> move...sorry. It didn't move.
> Yeah...the gauges fit the cluster fine....they're just not the original
> manufacturer.
> Allen
>
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:TMuDb.13133$uu4.10490@news01.roc.ny...
> >
> > OK... calm down...
> > What do you mean "after market gauge... does it fit in the OEM cluster?
> > What do you mean you grounded the pink wire to check ohms?... that would
> be
> > the wire that goes to the sender.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:RZsDb.917$Pd2.67@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Alright...I'm so damn frustrated I feel like taking my .45 to my Jeep!
> My
> > CJ
> > > was in need of a new fuel gauge. I tried grounding the wire and
couldn't
> > get
> > > the darn thing to move no matter what. I checked the ohms on the
sender
> > and
> > > get about 20 ohms on a more than 1/2 tank...seems okay there. It's an
> > > aftermarket gauge so I'm not sure if the posts are switched around. To
> be
> > > safe I also bought a new temp gauge also. So tonight I hooked
everything
> > up,
> > > turned the key and the needle spiked on the fuel gauge. I turned the
key
> > > back because I didn't want to blow the gauge...I know I don't have a
> > > completely full tank. I changed the wires on the back of the fuel
gauge,
> > > turned the key and same thing. I pulled the pink wire off and grounded
> it
> > to
> > > check the ohms again on the sender. I left it off and started the jeep
> to
> > > see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the
fuel
> > > gauge spiked. I reach up under to pull the hot wire and got some
sparks.
> > Now
> > > I'm not sure if the damn new gauge is toast or not. I quit after that.
> Any
> > > insight to this $%#@! problem?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

JimG

> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in
the
> monsterslayer site.

Improper use of terms - you should say "connected" the pink wire from the
sender to the gauge.

Now I am a little confused - what do mean when you say spiked? Are you
saying with all wires hooked up it reads full? What does it read with the
pink wire disconnected from the back of the gauge?

If the gauge is made for the OEM cluster, you can be sure the posts are not
reversed.

JimG


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4cBDb.317$gx.27@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in
the
> monsterslayer site. Not to check the ohms...to see if the gauge would
> move...sorry. It didn't move.
> Yeah...the gauges fit the cluster fine....they're just not the original
> manufacturer.
> Allen
>
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:TMuDb.13133$uu4.10490@news01.roc.ny...
> >
> > OK... calm down...
> > What do you mean "after market gauge... does it fit in the OEM cluster?
> > What do you mean you grounded the pink wire to check ohms?... that would
> be
> > the wire that goes to the sender.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:RZsDb.917$Pd2.67@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Alright...I'm so damn frustrated I feel like taking my .45 to my Jeep!
> My
> > CJ
> > > was in need of a new fuel gauge. I tried grounding the wire and
couldn't
> > get
> > > the darn thing to move no matter what. I checked the ohms on the
sender
> > and
> > > get about 20 ohms on a more than 1/2 tank...seems okay there. It's an
> > > aftermarket gauge so I'm not sure if the posts are switched around. To
> be
> > > safe I also bought a new temp gauge also. So tonight I hooked
everything
> > up,
> > > turned the key and the needle spiked on the fuel gauge. I turned the
key
> > > back because I didn't want to blow the gauge...I know I don't have a
> > > completely full tank. I changed the wires on the back of the fuel
gauge,
> > > turned the key and same thing. I pulled the pink wire off and grounded
> it
> > to
> > > check the ohms again on the sender. I left it off and started the jeep
> to
> > > see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the
fuel
> > > gauge spiked. I reach up under to pull the hot wire and got some
sparks.
> > Now
> > > I'm not sure if the damn new gauge is toast or not. I quit after that.
> Any
> > > insight to this $%#@! problem?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

JimG

> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in
the
> monsterslayer site.

Improper use of terms - you should say "connected" the pink wire from the
sender to the gauge.

Now I am a little confused - what do mean when you say spiked? Are you
saying with all wires hooked up it reads full? What does it read with the
pink wire disconnected from the back of the gauge?

If the gauge is made for the OEM cluster, you can be sure the posts are not
reversed.

JimG


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4cBDb.317$gx.27@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in
the
> monsterslayer site. Not to check the ohms...to see if the gauge would
> move...sorry. It didn't move.
> Yeah...the gauges fit the cluster fine....they're just not the original
> manufacturer.
> Allen
>
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:TMuDb.13133$uu4.10490@news01.roc.ny...
> >
> > OK... calm down...
> > What do you mean "after market gauge... does it fit in the OEM cluster?
> > What do you mean you grounded the pink wire to check ohms?... that would
> be
> > the wire that goes to the sender.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:RZsDb.917$Pd2.67@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Alright...I'm so damn frustrated I feel like taking my .45 to my Jeep!
> My
> > CJ
> > > was in need of a new fuel gauge. I tried grounding the wire and
couldn't
> > get
> > > the darn thing to move no matter what. I checked the ohms on the
sender
> > and
> > > get about 20 ohms on a more than 1/2 tank...seems okay there. It's an
> > > aftermarket gauge so I'm not sure if the posts are switched around. To
> be
> > > safe I also bought a new temp gauge also. So tonight I hooked
everything
> > up,
> > > turned the key and the needle spiked on the fuel gauge. I turned the
key
> > > back because I didn't want to blow the gauge...I know I don't have a
> > > completely full tank. I changed the wires on the back of the fuel
gauge,
> > > turned the key and same thing. I pulled the pink wire off and grounded
> it
> > to
> > > check the ohms again on the sender. I left it off and started the jeep
> to
> > > see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the
fuel
> > > gauge spiked. I reach up under to pull the hot wire and got some
sparks.
> > Now
> > > I'm not sure if the damn new gauge is toast or not. I quit after that.
> Any
> > > insight to this $%#@! problem?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Mike Romain

The only thing I can think of is the gauge is maybe missing or needs a
separate voltage regulator.

Stock the gauge runs on 5 volts. Put 12 volts to it and it will pin out
full.

I designed an electronic voltage regulator for mine to try and get
around a bad mechanical one. In my case the mechanical one seems to
work, I have a bad connection on one of the posts where it is connected
to the board inside so I only get 3 volts or so usually.

If you want I could send you the schematics for the electronic
regulator.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in the
> monsterslayer site. Not to check the ohms...to see if the gauge would
> move...sorry. It didn't move.
> Yeah...the gauges fit the cluster fine....they're just not the original
> manufacturer.
> Allen
>
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:TMuDb.13133$uu4.10490@news01.roc.ny...
> >
> > OK... calm down...
> > What do you mean "after market gauge... does it fit in the OEM cluster?
> > What do you mean you grounded the pink wire to check ohms?... that would
> be
> > the wire that goes to the sender.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:RZsDb.917$Pd2.67@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Alright...I'm so damn frustrated I feel like taking my .45 to my Jeep!
> My
> > CJ
> > > was in need of a new fuel gauge. I tried grounding the wire and couldn't
> > get
> > > the darn thing to move no matter what. I checked the ohms on the sender
> > and
> > > get about 20 ohms on a more than 1/2 tank...seems okay there. It's an
> > > aftermarket gauge so I'm not sure if the posts are switched around. To
> be
> > > safe I also bought a new temp gauge also. So tonight I hooked everything
> > up,
> > > turned the key and the needle spiked on the fuel gauge. I turned the key
> > > back because I didn't want to blow the gauge...I know I don't have a
> > > completely full tank. I changed the wires on the back of the fuel gauge,
> > > turned the key and same thing. I pulled the pink wire off and grounded
> it
> > to
> > > check the ohms again on the sender. I left it off and started the jeep
> to
> > > see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the fuel
> > > gauge spiked. I reach up under to pull the hot wire and got some sparks.
> > Now
> > > I'm not sure if the damn new gauge is toast or not. I quit after that.
> Any
> > > insight to this $%#@! problem?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > >
> > >
> >
> >

Mike Romain

The only thing I can think of is the gauge is maybe missing or needs a
separate voltage regulator.

Stock the gauge runs on 5 volts. Put 12 volts to it and it will pin out
full.

I designed an electronic voltage regulator for mine to try and get
around a bad mechanical one. In my case the mechanical one seems to
work, I have a bad connection on one of the posts where it is connected
to the board inside so I only get 3 volts or so usually.

If you want I could send you the schematics for the electronic
regulator.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in the
> monsterslayer site. Not to check the ohms...to see if the gauge would
> move...sorry. It didn't move.
> Yeah...the gauges fit the cluster fine....they're just not the original
> manufacturer.
> Allen
>
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:TMuDb.13133$uu4.10490@news01.roc.ny...
> >
> > OK... calm down...
> > What do you mean "after market gauge... does it fit in the OEM cluster?
> > What do you mean you grounded the pink wire to check ohms?... that would
> be
> > the wire that goes to the sender.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:RZsDb.917$Pd2.67@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Alright...I'm so damn frustrated I feel like taking my .45 to my Jeep!
> My
> > CJ
> > > was in need of a new fuel gauge. I tried grounding the wire and couldn't
> > get
> > > the darn thing to move no matter what. I checked the ohms on the sender
> > and
> > > get about 20 ohms on a more than 1/2 tank...seems okay there. It's an
> > > aftermarket gauge so I'm not sure if the posts are switched around. To
> be
> > > safe I also bought a new temp gauge also. So tonight I hooked everything
> > up,
> > > turned the key and the needle spiked on the fuel gauge. I turned the key
> > > back because I didn't want to blow the gauge...I know I don't have a
> > > completely full tank. I changed the wires on the back of the fuel gauge,
> > > turned the key and same thing. I pulled the pink wire off and grounded
> it
> > to
> > > check the ohms again on the sender. I left it off and started the jeep
> to
> > > see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the fuel
> > > gauge spiked. I reach up under to pull the hot wire and got some sparks.
> > Now
> > > I'm not sure if the damn new gauge is toast or not. I quit after that.
> Any
> > > insight to this $%#@! problem?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > >
> > >
> >
> >

Mike Romain

The only thing I can think of is the gauge is maybe missing or needs a
separate voltage regulator.

Stock the gauge runs on 5 volts. Put 12 volts to it and it will pin out
full.

I designed an electronic voltage regulator for mine to try and get
around a bad mechanical one. In my case the mechanical one seems to
work, I have a bad connection on one of the posts where it is connected
to the board inside so I only get 3 volts or so usually.

If you want I could send you the schematics for the electronic
regulator.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in the
> monsterslayer site. Not to check the ohms...to see if the gauge would
> move...sorry. It didn't move.
> Yeah...the gauges fit the cluster fine....they're just not the original
> manufacturer.
> Allen
>
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
> news:TMuDb.13133$uu4.10490@news01.roc.ny...
> >
> > OK... calm down...
> > What do you mean "after market gauge... does it fit in the OEM cluster?
> > What do you mean you grounded the pink wire to check ohms?... that would
> be
> > the wire that goes to the sender.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:RZsDb.917$Pd2.67@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Alright...I'm so damn frustrated I feel like taking my .45 to my Jeep!
> My
> > CJ
> > > was in need of a new fuel gauge. I tried grounding the wire and couldn't
> > get
> > > the darn thing to move no matter what. I checked the ohms on the sender
> > and
> > > get about 20 ohms on a more than 1/2 tank...seems okay there. It's an
> > > aftermarket gauge so I'm not sure if the posts are switched around. To
> be
> > > safe I also bought a new temp gauge also. So tonight I hooked everything
> > up,
> > > turned the key and the needle spiked on the fuel gauge. I turned the key
> > > back because I didn't want to blow the gauge...I know I don't have a
> > > completely full tank. I changed the wires on the back of the fuel gauge,
> > > turned the key and same thing. I pulled the pink wire off and grounded
> it
> > to
> > > check the ohms again on the sender. I left it off and started the jeep
> to
> > > see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the fuel
> > > gauge spiked. I reach up under to pull the hot wire and got some sparks.
> > Now
> > > I'm not sure if the damn new gauge is toast or not. I quit after that.
> Any
> > > insight to this $%#@! problem?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > >
> > >
> >
> >