RIDERFAN

finished installing the 4" ZONE kit. It went AWESOME and drives even better ! Now for some 33's

StockJeeoNoMore

I face a similar situation. I bought an '03 Jeep TJ Sport from a dealer, and I really don't think that it is a "Sport" edition?!? I just love my Jeep so much, I can't complain about her.

Does anyone know of other ways to specifically distinguish whether a Jeep is a Sport edition or not, without a build sheet?

Thanks gang! Happy Jeeping!

RiponredTJ

All Sports have a 6 cyl, the SE has a 4.
There are various Sport models available but they all came with a straight 6.
I can't see a dealer passing an SE off as a Sport.

Fire651

I have an SE, bought it...even though the dealer "thought" it was a Sport. Didn't make a difference either way...love the Jeep!

jeepjones

Man I did a wicked wiring mod today. I have aftermarket spots on the front which use an rocker switch I installed and wired up separately from the existing wiring so the stock fog lamp switch/relays were not being used. Not wanting to have to install another switch and relay for a 55w flood lamp for the rear I traced the wiring to the factory fog lamp relays found the wire that powers the lamps(light blue),took apart the connector at the relay,added some wire,ran it down the right side of the tub,reinstalled the connector/relays, secured it to the tub using stick on tie strap holders& zipties, used 1/4" synflex air hose and split loom to cover the wire,drilled a hole at the right rear corner of the tub,fed the synflex hose and wire through,mounted the spot on the bumper and wired it up. Now using the stock switch and relays I have a wickedly bright flood lamp that lights up the entire alley behind my garage on the bumper, it's going to be nice to be able to see behind the jeep when on those crazy night runs and not having to worry so much where the steep embankment/cliff is! (Pics will be posted tomorrow)(synflex is synthetic plastic airline used on commercial vehicles with air brakes)

Prd_Cdn

So you DOUBLED the power draw on your 16 maybe 18 gauge Factory wire?

I did some wiring too, re-wired some rocker switches to run the front spot lights and ran my CB .. just need to tune her and I am back up and running.
Oh and bought some 06 Rubi springs with 40 thousand km on them for a bottle of Rum !

jeepjones

Nope, the amperage draw from the two stock front fog lamps is higher than the draw from my one rear spot lamp, so no I didn't double the draw at all I actually lowered it. I don't know if you misunderstood but my aftermarket front lamps are running on a separate power/ground/relay/fuses & switch, there's only one lamp I installed at the rear running off of the original unused factory fog lamp relay/rocker/fuse and as stated the current draw is lower than for the factory lamps, And I have wired in 12 gauge wire from the relays to the lamp so the factory switch is getting the same amount of load/power as it did from the factory. Just as a little side note my factory fog lamps were 55 w each.

beserkur

Today I replaced my Camshaft Synchronizer,it was making noise and had previously began to seize up.
Background Info
The last time,I marked the position it was in,removed and disassembled it,removed the rust and most of the pitting that had accumulated and reinstalled it until I bought a new one.I had no issues starting or timing issues.
Today
I received my new parts(45$ U.S. on Morris4x4)
Marked the position of camshaft synchro and shaft position.removed it.
Installed new Cam synchro exactly as the old one.
Jeep wouldn't start.
Removed cam synchro and rotated it 180 degrees.
Jeep wouldn't start.
Somehow I screwed up the timing by not putting it in the correct position even though I was sure it was."Now what?" you're thinking,right?
Easy...
Removed # 1 spark plug,rotated engine with large crescent wrench until at TDC on compression stroke
Install cam synchro with alignment holes matching up.reinstall spark plug,and pointed camsensor with harness end pointing at the firewall.
Jeep started on first try.
Fine Tuning/Timing
Now,most people say that it should be professionally timed.The only way to do this is at the dealer.It IS a wise idea because an improperly timed engine can lead to minor and major engine problems such as,rough idle,excess fuel consumption,overheating,engine "pinging",hard starting,engine run-on and so on.
Being a mechanic,I refuse to bring my vehicle to anyone to repair,period.
So I timed it by ear,I have many years experience doing so with all manner of vehicles that I felt confident that I could do it.
I learned a few interesting things..Usually as soon as you move the distributor,you will retard or advance the timing and the engine will respond to such fluctuations right away,not so with the ECU for the 4.0-when you move it the ECU automatically tries to compensate and therefore there is a delay in response.took me a few minutes to realize what was going on.But I finally hit the sweet spot after about 5 mins,when the engine was running to my satisfaction.
Noticed a few small improvements on the drive home,My Idle,which has been high,is now at an optimum level for me and I noticed my temp hovers just under the 100 mark now whereas before it was at 110.Also no more slight hesitation when kickdown engages.
Just thought I'd share this with you guys.

jeepjones

I replaced my AX15 trans oil with REDLINE MT90, wow what a difference! Worth the money it costs! ($12 a quart). And replaced the oil with Lucas 10w30 synthetic.

jeepjones

I replaced all 4 severely sagging Pro Crap springs with Currie 4" Lift springs and finally replaced the worn out Pro Crap upper/lower rear control arms with some fully adjustable/greasable units from BDS!