My guess would be it was welded at the wrong angle. My fix can be found at
http://home.stny.rr.com/jscherb/yjdoor.jpg

I used a #10 stainless steel screw. I drilled a clearance hole in the door
edge, and a hole the right size for a 10-32 tap in the window frame, then
tapped the frame. Using a serrated lock washer to make sure it wouldn't
slip when the door was closed, I adjusted the window frame so that when the
door was closed there was pressure against the hardtop frame. This fixed
the problem; the screw has been in place over 1 year and has been working
fine, no wind noise leaks since then.

jeff

"Jeff Hendron" <hendron@hpntdpt.cos.agilent.com> wrote in message
news:1076716846.836091@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
> Hello Jeff,
>
> I checked to see if it was leaking around the vent window like the
previuos reply suggested,
> but it is coming in above the door frame above the window. I did have to
have my window
> frame welded a few years ago so maybe it isn't mounted at the correct
angle. I would
> definitely like to hear what your fix is though! I was wondering if the
upper door hinge
> pin could be bent in a bit???
>
> Jeff Hendron
>
>
>
> Jeff Scherb <jscherb@stny.rr.com> wrote:
> : I had a problem in this area and it turned out that the weld was broken
at
> : the rear of the door, at the bottom of the where the vertical part of
the
> : window frame meets the door. If this weld is broken, the upper window
frame
> : won't push against the weatherstripping and seal right. It gets worse
when
> : you turn on the heater fan, because the inside air pressure pushes the
frame
> : out further.
>
> : Check your frame, if the weld is broken, I can email you a photo of a 25
> : cent fix.
>
> : "Jeff Hendron" <hendron@hpntdpt.cos.agilent.com> wrote in message
> : news:1076448165.714558@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
> :>
> :> Does anyone know if the hardtops (91 YJ) are
> :> supposed to have venting? Mine has always had
> :> a wind whistling noise at the top front of the
> :> drivers door. The more I do to seal things up,
> :> the worse it gets. Right now I can turn the
> :> heater motor on high and get it to whistle
> :> while the vehicle is sitting still. Obviously
> :> it is air going out of the top, and not in. It
> :> seems like they would have to be vented to
> :> allow air from the heater to enter the vehicle.
> :>
> :>
> :> ---
> :> Jeff Hendron 1991 Jeep Wrangler - HD Dana 44 rear,
> :> Technology Specialist 4.56 axle ratios, arb's, rear
> :> Agilent Technologies disk brakes, 33x10.5 swampers,
> :> Colorado Springs, Colorado 2.5 inch susp lift, 2 inch body
> :> (719) 531-4319 lift, 4.0L, 5 speed, Ramsey 2001
> :> jeff_hendron@agilent.com
> :> 1994 Yamaha WR250ZF
>
>

 

My guess would be it was welded at the wrong angle. My fix can be found at
http://home.stny.rr.com/jscherb/yjdoor.jpg

I used a #10 stainless steel screw. I drilled a clearance hole in the door
edge, and a hole the right size for a 10-32 tap in the window frame, then
tapped the frame. Using a serrated lock washer to make sure it wouldn't
slip when the door was closed, I adjusted the window frame so that when the
door was closed there was pressure against the hardtop frame. This fixed
the problem; the screw has been in place over 1 year and has been working
fine, no wind noise leaks since then.

jeff

"Jeff Hendron" <hendron@hpntdpt.cos.agilent.com> wrote in message
news:1076716846.836091@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
> Hello Jeff,
>
> I checked to see if it was leaking around the vent window like the
previuos reply suggested,
> but it is coming in above the door frame above the window. I did have to
have my window
> frame welded a few years ago so maybe it isn't mounted at the correct
angle. I would
> definitely like to hear what your fix is though! I was wondering if the
upper door hinge
> pin could be bent in a bit???
>
> Jeff Hendron
>
>
>
> Jeff Scherb <jscherb@stny.rr.com> wrote:
> : I had a problem in this area and it turned out that the weld was broken
at
> : the rear of the door, at the bottom of the where the vertical part of
the
> : window frame meets the door. If this weld is broken, the upper window
frame
> : won't push against the weatherstripping and seal right. It gets worse
when
> : you turn on the heater fan, because the inside air pressure pushes the
frame
> : out further.
>
> : Check your frame, if the weld is broken, I can email you a photo of a 25
> : cent fix.
>
> : "Jeff Hendron" <hendron@hpntdpt.cos.agilent.com> wrote in message
> : news:1076448165.714558@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
> :>
> :> Does anyone know if the hardtops (91 YJ) are
> :> supposed to have venting? Mine has always had
> :> a wind whistling noise at the top front of the
> :> drivers door. The more I do to seal things up,
> :> the worse it gets. Right now I can turn the
> :> heater motor on high and get it to whistle
> :> while the vehicle is sitting still. Obviously
> :> it is air going out of the top, and not in. It
> :> seems like they would have to be vented to
> :> allow air from the heater to enter the vehicle.
> :>
> :>
> :> ---
> :> Jeff Hendron 1991 Jeep Wrangler - HD Dana 44 rear,
> :> Technology Specialist 4.56 axle ratios, arb's, rear
> :> Agilent Technologies disk brakes, 33x10.5 swampers,
> :> Colorado Springs, Colorado 2.5 inch susp lift, 2 inch body
> :> (719) 531-4319 lift, 4.0L, 5 speed, Ramsey 2001
> :> jeff_hendron@agilent.com
> :> 1994 Yamaha WR250ZF
>
>

 

My guess would be it was welded at the wrong angle. My fix can be found at
http://home.stny.rr.com/jscherb/yjdoor.jpg

I used a #10 stainless steel screw. I drilled a clearance hole in the door
edge, and a hole the right size for a 10-32 tap in the window frame, then
tapped the frame. Using a serrated lock washer to make sure it wouldn't
slip when the door was closed, I adjusted the window frame so that when the
door was closed there was pressure against the hardtop frame. This fixed
the problem; the screw has been in place over 1 year and has been working
fine, no wind noise leaks since then.

jeff

"Jeff Hendron" <hendron@hpntdpt.cos.agilent.com> wrote in message
news:1076716846.836091@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
> Hello Jeff,
>
> I checked to see if it was leaking around the vent window like the
previuos reply suggested,
> but it is coming in above the door frame above the window. I did have to
have my window
> frame welded a few years ago so maybe it isn't mounted at the correct
angle. I would
> definitely like to hear what your fix is though! I was wondering if the
upper door hinge
> pin could be bent in a bit???
>
> Jeff Hendron
>
>
>
> Jeff Scherb <jscherb@stny.rr.com> wrote:
> : I had a problem in this area and it turned out that the weld was broken
at
> : the rear of the door, at the bottom of the where the vertical part of
the
> : window frame meets the door. If this weld is broken, the upper window
frame
> : won't push against the weatherstripping and seal right. It gets worse
when
> : you turn on the heater fan, because the inside air pressure pushes the
frame
> : out further.
>
> : Check your frame, if the weld is broken, I can email you a photo of a 25
> : cent fix.
>
> : "Jeff Hendron" <hendron@hpntdpt.cos.agilent.com> wrote in message
> : news:1076448165.714558@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
> :>
> :> Does anyone know if the hardtops (91 YJ) are
> :> supposed to have venting? Mine has always had
> :> a wind whistling noise at the top front of the
> :> drivers door. The more I do to seal things up,
> :> the worse it gets. Right now I can turn the
> :> heater motor on high and get it to whistle
> :> while the vehicle is sitting still. Obviously
> :> it is air going out of the top, and not in. It
> :> seems like they would have to be vented to
> :> allow air from the heater to enter the vehicle.
> :>
> :>
> :> ---
> :> Jeff Hendron 1991 Jeep Wrangler - HD Dana 44 rear,
> :> Technology Specialist 4.56 axle ratios, arb's, rear
> :> Agilent Technologies disk brakes, 33x10.5 swampers,
> :> Colorado Springs, Colorado 2.5 inch susp lift, 2 inch body
> :> (719) 531-4319 lift, 4.0L, 5 speed, Ramsey 2001
> :> jeff_hendron@agilent.com
> :> 1994 Yamaha WR250ZF
>
>