YJ body mount removal
07-14-2006, 12:14 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
YJ body mount removal
I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
L with an AX-5.
This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
flats on the cab base.
Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
Fabe
CBS, Newfoundland
Canada
my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
L with an AX-5.
This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
flats on the cab base.
Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
Fabe
CBS, Newfoundland
Canada
07-14-2006, 12:26 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
07-14-2006, 12:26 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
07-14-2006, 12:26 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
07-14-2006, 12:41 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia
07-14-2006, 12:41 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia
07-14-2006, 12:41 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia
07-14-2006, 07:56 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix.
Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?
<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>
problem, and the fix.
Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?
<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>
07-14-2006, 07:56 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix.
Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?
<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>
problem, and the fix.
Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?
<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>
07-14-2006, 07:56 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ body mount removal
There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix.
Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?
<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>
problem, and the fix.
Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?
<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>