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YJ body mount removal
I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 L with an AX-5. This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with flats on the cab base. Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. Fabe CBS, Newfoundland Canada |
Re: YJ body mount removal
Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote: > > I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on > my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 > L with an AX-5. > > This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and > decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these > creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying > them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. > > It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally > anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, > welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would > have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut > through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with > flats on the cab base. > > Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in > place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as > heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn > skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. > > If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the > pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. > > Fabe > CBS, Newfoundland > Canada |
Re: YJ body mount removal
Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote: > > I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on > my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 > L with an AX-5. > > This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and > decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these > creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying > them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. > > It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally > anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, > welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would > have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut > through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with > flats on the cab base. > > Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in > place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as > heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn > skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. > > If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the > pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. > > Fabe > CBS, Newfoundland > Canada |
Re: YJ body mount removal
Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote: > > I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on > my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 > L with an AX-5. > > This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and > decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these > creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying > them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. > > It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally > anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, > welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would > have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut > through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with > flats on the cab base. > > Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in > place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as > heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn > skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. > > If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the > pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. > > Fabe > CBS, Newfoundland > Canada |
Re: YJ body mount removal
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe, > Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they > don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch. > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote: >> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on >> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 >> L with an AX-5. >> >> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and >> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these >> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying >> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. >> >> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally >> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, >> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would >> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut >> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with >> flats on the cab base. >> >> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in >> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as >> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn >> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. >> >> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the >> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. >> >> Fabe >> CBS, Newfoundland >> Canada don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted Newfie now livin' in British Columbia |
Re: YJ body mount removal
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe, > Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they > don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch. > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote: >> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on >> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 >> L with an AX-5. >> >> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and >> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these >> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying >> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. >> >> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally >> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, >> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would >> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut >> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with >> flats on the cab base. >> >> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in >> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as >> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn >> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. >> >> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the >> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. >> >> Fabe >> CBS, Newfoundland >> Canada don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted Newfie now livin' in British Columbia |
Re: YJ body mount removal
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe, > Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they > don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch. > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote: >> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on >> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 >> L with an AX-5. >> >> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and >> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these >> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying >> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. >> >> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally >> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, >> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would >> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut >> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with >> flats on the cab base. >> >> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in >> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as >> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn >> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. >> >> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the >> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. >> >> Fabe >> CBS, Newfoundland >> Canada don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted Newfie now livin' in British Columbia |
Re: YJ body mount removal
There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix. Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week? Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition? <fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... >I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on > my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 > L with an AX-5. > > This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and > decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these > creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying > them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. > > It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally > anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, > welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would > have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut > through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with > flats on the cab base. > > Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in > place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as > heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn > skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. > > If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the > pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. > > Fabe > CBS, Newfoundland > Canada > |
Re: YJ body mount removal
There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix. Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week? Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition? <fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... >I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on > my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 > L with an AX-5. > > This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and > decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these > creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying > them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. > > It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally > anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, > welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would > have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut > through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with > flats on the cab base. > > Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in > place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as > heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn > skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. > > If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the > pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. > > Fabe > CBS, Newfoundland > Canada > |
Re: YJ body mount removal
There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix. Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week? Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition? <fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... >I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on > my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 > L with an AX-5. > > This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and > decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these > creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying > them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket. > > It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally > anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, > welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would > have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut > through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with > flats on the cab base. > > Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in > place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as > heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn > skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO. > > If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the > pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard. > > Fabe > CBS, Newfoundland > Canada > |
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