YJ body mount removal
 

I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
L with an AX-5.

This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.

It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
flats on the cab base.

Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.

If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.

Fabe
CBS, Newfoundland
Canada

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

Hi Fabe,
Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Fabe,
> Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they
> don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
>> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
>> L with an AX-5.
>>
>> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
>> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
>> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
>> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>>
>> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
>> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
>> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
>> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
>> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
>> flats on the cab base.
>>
>> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
>> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
>> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
>> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>>
>> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
>> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>>
>> Fabe
>> CBS, Newfoundland
>> Canada
don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted
Newfie now livin' in British Columbia

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix.

Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?

<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix.

Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?

<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this
problem, and the fix.

Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week?
Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?

<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152850473.547579.137700@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada
>

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

I feel for you. I am also in the rust belt....

When I tried to remove my body, only one bolt came out. The rest either
spun the internal nut or snapped off.

Folks have recommended drilling a hole above or beside each mount so you
can spray each with a good penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is ok or I
like the home hardware kp 53 stuff. I recommend at least a week of
twice or more daily applications before starting.

I used the roll bar and a big tree with a hand cable winch (come-a-long)
to take the weight off. The forward/back center of gravity for the tub
is right where the driver sits, just in front of the roll bar cross
over.

When I lifted the tub off via the winch, the tailgate fell off, the
floor fell out, the front cowl fell off and I was left with a roll bar
and two back fenders hanging from the tree.... I tossed it in the trash
and bought a fiberglass tub from a gent in Kingston Ontario. I love
it! No more rust!

Now if I can just find a new frame for the next rebuild stage....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

I feel for you. I am also in the rust belt....

When I tried to remove my body, only one bolt came out. The rest either
spun the internal nut or snapped off.

Folks have recommended drilling a hole above or beside each mount so you
can spray each with a good penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is ok or I
like the home hardware kp 53 stuff. I recommend at least a week of
twice or more daily applications before starting.

I used the roll bar and a big tree with a hand cable winch (come-a-long)
to take the weight off. The forward/back center of gravity for the tub
is right where the driver sits, just in front of the roll bar cross
over.

When I lifted the tub off via the winch, the tailgate fell off, the
floor fell out, the front cowl fell off and I was left with a roll bar
and two back fenders hanging from the tree.... I tossed it in the trash
and bought a fiberglass tub from a gent in Kingston Ontario. I love
it! No more rust!

Now if I can just find a new frame for the next rebuild stage....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

I feel for you. I am also in the rust belt....

When I tried to remove my body, only one bolt came out. The rest either
spun the internal nut or snapped off.

Folks have recommended drilling a hole above or beside each mount so you
can spray each with a good penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is ok or I
like the home hardware kp 53 stuff. I recommend at least a week of
twice or more daily applications before starting.

I used the roll bar and a big tree with a hand cable winch (come-a-long)
to take the weight off. The forward/back center of gravity for the tub
is right where the driver sits, just in front of the roll bar cross
over.

When I lifted the tub off via the winch, the tailgate fell off, the
floor fell out, the front cowl fell off and I was left with a roll bar
and two back fenders hanging from the tree.... I tossed it in the trash
and bought a fiberglass tub from a gent in Kingston Ontario. I love
it! No more rust!

Now if I can just find a new frame for the next rebuild stage....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

"fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca" wrote:
>
> I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on
> my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5
> L with an AX-5.
>
> This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and
> decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these
> creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying
> them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.
>
> It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally
> anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut,
> welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would
> have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut
> through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with
> flats on the cab base.
>
> Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in
> place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as
> heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn
> skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.
>
> If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the
> pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.
>
> Fabe
> CBS, Newfoundland
> Canada

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

Gawd... Mike. Indeed, this is like the Wilde Coyote and the Roadrunner
Show. Sorta like chasing for work in Newfoundland.

Indeed, the bolts are just rotating and quite right, I snapped one off.
I seem oriented to block up an axle stand with wood and use a piece of
2x4 to distribute the lifting load. To do otherwise would possibly
pearce the cab. I really worry about what I have left to bolt back into
(?). My new mounts came from Quadratec. Hey guys (Quadratec)... how
about some free parts for "dat plug"?

Good points from all. The tub is fairly solid because when I got her
new, I went at it with a solid undercoating of a rubberized asphalt
spray. The cab rusted from the inside out, mainly at the floor pans.
Funny, I didn't order the "water leaks option". She was like it new.
The dealer never addressed this matter to my satisfaction :>/

As for the AX-5, you eventually need a hydraulic ram. I asked the
farmer down the road about his goat and a bucket of water. He was not
impressed about my future application. With measured thou clearances
for reseating, I will be off to a trannie shop with only the counter
and main shafts remaining on the intermediate plate. You can't say I
have not reduced the shop time, I hope.

All the best to all and thanks for your thoughtfulness.

Fabe

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

Gawd... Mike. Indeed, this is like the Wilde Coyote and the Roadrunner
Show. Sorta like chasing for work in Newfoundland.

Indeed, the bolts are just rotating and quite right, I snapped one off.
I seem oriented to block up an axle stand with wood and use a piece of
2x4 to distribute the lifting load. To do otherwise would possibly
pearce the cab. I really worry about what I have left to bolt back into
(?). My new mounts came from Quadratec. Hey guys (Quadratec)... how
about some free parts for "dat plug"?

Good points from all. The tub is fairly solid because when I got her
new, I went at it with a solid undercoating of a rubberized asphalt
spray. The cab rusted from the inside out, mainly at the floor pans.
Funny, I didn't order the "water leaks option". She was like it new.
The dealer never addressed this matter to my satisfaction :>/

As for the AX-5, you eventually need a hydraulic ram. I asked the
farmer down the road about his goat and a bucket of water. He was not
impressed about my future application. With measured thou clearances
for reseating, I will be off to a trannie shop with only the counter
and main shafts remaining on the intermediate plate. You can't say I
have not reduced the shop time, I hope.

All the best to all and thanks for your thoughtfulness.

Fabe

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

Gawd... Mike. Indeed, this is like the Wilde Coyote and the Roadrunner
Show. Sorta like chasing for work in Newfoundland.

Indeed, the bolts are just rotating and quite right, I snapped one off.
I seem oriented to block up an axle stand with wood and use a piece of
2x4 to distribute the lifting load. To do otherwise would possibly
pearce the cab. I really worry about what I have left to bolt back into
(?). My new mounts came from Quadratec. Hey guys (Quadratec)... how
about some free parts for "dat plug"?

Good points from all. The tub is fairly solid because when I got her
new, I went at it with a solid undercoating of a rubberized asphalt
spray. The cab rusted from the inside out, mainly at the floor pans.
Funny, I didn't order the "water leaks option". She was like it new.
The dealer never addressed this matter to my satisfaction :>/

As for the AX-5, you eventually need a hydraulic ram. I asked the
farmer down the road about his goat and a bucket of water. He was not
impressed about my future application. With measured thou clearances
for reseating, I will be off to a trannie shop with only the counter
and main shafts remaining on the intermediate plate. You can't say I
have not reduced the shop time, I hope.

All the best to all and thanks for your thoughtfulness.

Fabe

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

While you have it apart Herculiner the interior metal. There are shops that
will do it for you and others that sell the materials.

Dupli-Color supplies it to anyone who sells auto-parts for about $50 (US) a
gallon or a kit which also includes a spray can for hard to reach areas, a
roller and tray, and a brush for about $10 (US) more.

If you have an air compressor you can buy a spray applicator

They have a good instructional video on-line at:
Note: requires ActiveX to run

http://www.duplicolor.com/training/t..._training.html



<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152893083.645339.37970@p79g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Gawd... Mike. Indeed, this is like the Wilde Coyote and the Roadrunner
> Show. Sorta like chasing for work in Newfoundland.
>
> Indeed, the bolts are just rotating and quite right, I snapped one off.
> I seem oriented to block up an axle stand with wood and use a piece of
> 2x4 to distribute the lifting load. To do otherwise would possibly
> pearce the cab. I really worry about what I have left to bolt back into
> (?). My new mounts came from Quadratec. Hey guys (Quadratec)... how
> about some free parts for "dat plug"?
>
> Good points from all. The tub is fairly solid because when I got her
> new, I went at it with a solid undercoating of a rubberized asphalt
> spray. The cab rusted from the inside out, mainly at the floor pans.
> Funny, I didn't order the "water leaks option". She was like it new.
> The dealer never addressed this matter to my satisfaction :>/
>
> As for the AX-5, you eventually need a hydraulic ram. I asked the
> farmer down the road about his goat and a bucket of water. He was not
> impressed about my future application. With measured thou clearances
> for reseating, I will be off to a trannie shop with only the counter
> and main shafts remaining on the intermediate plate. You can't say I
> have not reduced the shop time, I hope.
>
> All the best to all and thanks for your thoughtfulness.
>
> Fabe
>

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

While you have it apart Herculiner the interior metal. There are shops that
will do it for you and others that sell the materials.

Dupli-Color supplies it to anyone who sells auto-parts for about $50 (US) a
gallon or a kit which also includes a spray can for hard to reach areas, a
roller and tray, and a brush for about $10 (US) more.

If you have an air compressor you can buy a spray applicator

They have a good instructional video on-line at:
Note: requires ActiveX to run

http://www.duplicolor.com/training/t..._training.html



<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152893083.645339.37970@p79g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Gawd... Mike. Indeed, this is like the Wilde Coyote and the Roadrunner
> Show. Sorta like chasing for work in Newfoundland.
>
> Indeed, the bolts are just rotating and quite right, I snapped one off.
> I seem oriented to block up an axle stand with wood and use a piece of
> 2x4 to distribute the lifting load. To do otherwise would possibly
> pearce the cab. I really worry about what I have left to bolt back into
> (?). My new mounts came from Quadratec. Hey guys (Quadratec)... how
> about some free parts for "dat plug"?
>
> Good points from all. The tub is fairly solid because when I got her
> new, I went at it with a solid undercoating of a rubberized asphalt
> spray. The cab rusted from the inside out, mainly at the floor pans.
> Funny, I didn't order the "water leaks option". She was like it new.
> The dealer never addressed this matter to my satisfaction :>/
>
> As for the AX-5, you eventually need a hydraulic ram. I asked the
> farmer down the road about his goat and a bucket of water. He was not
> impressed about my future application. With measured thou clearances
> for reseating, I will be off to a trannie shop with only the counter
> and main shafts remaining on the intermediate plate. You can't say I
> have not reduced the shop time, I hope.
>
> All the best to all and thanks for your thoughtfulness.
>
> Fabe
>

Re: YJ body mount removal
 

While you have it apart Herculiner the interior metal. There are shops that
will do it for you and others that sell the materials.

Dupli-Color supplies it to anyone who sells auto-parts for about $50 (US) a
gallon or a kit which also includes a spray can for hard to reach areas, a
roller and tray, and a brush for about $10 (US) more.

If you have an air compressor you can buy a spray applicator

They have a good instructional video on-line at:
Note: requires ActiveX to run

http://www.duplicolor.com/training/t..._training.html



<fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1152893083.645339.37970@p79g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Gawd... Mike. Indeed, this is like the Wilde Coyote and the Roadrunner
> Show. Sorta like chasing for work in Newfoundland.
>
> Indeed, the bolts are just rotating and quite right, I snapped one off.
> I seem oriented to block up an axle stand with wood and use a piece of
> 2x4 to distribute the lifting load. To do otherwise would possibly
> pearce the cab. I really worry about what I have left to bolt back into
> (?). My new mounts came from Quadratec. Hey guys (Quadratec)... how
> about some free parts for "dat plug"?
>
> Good points from all. The tub is fairly solid because when I got her
> new, I went at it with a solid undercoating of a rubberized asphalt
> spray. The cab rusted from the inside out, mainly at the floor pans.
> Funny, I didn't order the "water leaks option". She was like it new.
> The dealer never addressed this matter to my satisfaction :>/
>
> As for the AX-5, you eventually need a hydraulic ram. I asked the
> farmer down the road about his goat and a bucket of water. He was not
> impressed about my future application. With measured thou clearances
> for reseating, I will be off to a trannie shop with only the counter
> and main shafts remaining on the intermediate plate. You can't say I
> have not reduced the shop time, I hope.
>
> All the best to all and thanks for your thoughtfulness.
>
> Fabe
>