Great, thanks for the info. I planned on double nutting it and putting some
heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)


-jeff


"Norm & Debbie" <nwpars@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:UhfDc.112834$eu.52040@attbi_s02...
> Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the
stud,
> tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut
closest
> to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
> penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
>
> Norm
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> > Yes.
> >
> > That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> > heard.
> >
> > I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> > of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> > tighten it.
> >
> > A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> > harder and likely would do the job.
> >
> > I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> > trying to do the job.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> > >
> > > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> > > question.
> > >
> > > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
> replace
> > > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
> that
> > > the stud is welded to.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > 98 XJ Classic
> > > 3" BD lift
> > > MJ Shackles
> > > Custom Rear Bumper
> > > Custom Rock Sliders
>
>
>

 

I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save some
aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its life
being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.

Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??

Thanks again for the advice.

jeff

"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:ZXfDc.527824$Ar.211728@twister01.bloor.is.net .cable.rogers.com...
> The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
> I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
> uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
> stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
> tapping.
> My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
> the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
> opposite end into the frame.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> : I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> : question.
> :
> : On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> : crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> : it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> : the stud is welded to.
> :
> : Does anyone have any ideas??
> :
> : -Jeff
> :
> : 98 XJ Classic
> : 3" BD lift
> : MJ Shackles
> : Custom Rear Bumper
> : Custom Rock Sliders
> :
> :
>
>
>

 

I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save some
aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its life
being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.

Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??

Thanks again for the advice.

jeff

"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:ZXfDc.527824$Ar.211728@twister01.bloor.is.net .cable.rogers.com...
> The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
> I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
> uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
> stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
> tapping.
> My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
> the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
> opposite end into the frame.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> : I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> : question.
> :
> : On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> : crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> : it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> : the stud is welded to.
> :
> : Does anyone have any ideas??
> :
> : -Jeff
> :
> : 98 XJ Classic
> : 3" BD lift
> : MJ Shackles
> : Custom Rear Bumper
> : Custom Rock Sliders
> :
> :
>
>
>

 

I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save some
aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its life
being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.

Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??

Thanks again for the advice.

jeff

"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:ZXfDc.527824$Ar.211728@twister01.bloor.is.net .cable.rogers.com...
> The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
> I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
> uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
> stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
> tapping.
> My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
> the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
> opposite end into the frame.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> : I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> : question.
> :
> : On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> : crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> : it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> : the stud is welded to.
> :
> : Does anyone have any ideas??
> :
> : -Jeff
> :
> : 98 XJ Classic
> : 3" BD lift
> : MJ Shackles
> : Custom Rear Bumper
> : Custom Rock Sliders
> :
> :
>
>
>

 

I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save some
aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its life
being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.

Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??

Thanks again for the advice.

jeff

"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:ZXfDc.527824$Ar.211728@twister01.bloor.is.net .cable.rogers.com...
> The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
> I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
> uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
> stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
> tapping.
> My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
> the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
> opposite end into the frame.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> : I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> : question.
> :
> : On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> : crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> : it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> : the stud is welded to.
> :
> : Does anyone have any ideas??
> :
> : -Jeff
> :
> : 98 XJ Classic
> : 3" BD lift
> : MJ Shackles
> : Custom Rear Bumper
> : Custom Rock Sliders
> :
> :
>
>
>

 

"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:n5gDc.2396$OR4.205328@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
: leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save
some
: aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its
life
: being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
: to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.
:
: Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??
:

I wish I had... mine came with a lift kit and was 'just sitting there'. If I
were fabricating as you are, I would have taken the easy route but it didn't
occur to me until the stud was damaged and too late to reuse.

Drop the crossmember and put the nut back on the stud. Cut the stud off
leaving enough thread to accommodate the thickness of the tube and restore
the thread by removing the nut slowly. Install the tube and line it up with
the longer bolt on the other side. Once the stud side is tight, remove the
longer bolt, install the crossmember with a shot bolt going up through. This
is where you will thank yourself for using 1x2" tube because you will only
be able to use and open end wrench to hold the nut.

Rinse and repeat.

-Brian

 

"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:n5gDc.2396$OR4.205328@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
: leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save
some
: aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its
life
: being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
: to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.
:
: Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??
:

I wish I had... mine came with a lift kit and was 'just sitting there'. If I
were fabricating as you are, I would have taken the easy route but it didn't
occur to me until the stud was damaged and too late to reuse.

Drop the crossmember and put the nut back on the stud. Cut the stud off
leaving enough thread to accommodate the thickness of the tube and restore
the thread by removing the nut slowly. Install the tube and line it up with
the longer bolt on the other side. Once the stud side is tight, remove the
longer bolt, install the crossmember with a shot bolt going up through. This
is where you will thank yourself for using 1x2" tube because you will only
be able to use and open end wrench to hold the nut.

Rinse and repeat.

-Brian

 

"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:n5gDc.2396$OR4.205328@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
: leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save
some
: aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its
life
: being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
: to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.
:
: Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??
:

I wish I had... mine came with a lift kit and was 'just sitting there'. If I
were fabricating as you are, I would have taken the easy route but it didn't
occur to me until the stud was damaged and too late to reuse.

Drop the crossmember and put the nut back on the stud. Cut the stud off
leaving enough thread to accommodate the thickness of the tube and restore
the thread by removing the nut slowly. Install the tube and line it up with
the longer bolt on the other side. Once the stud side is tight, remove the
longer bolt, install the crossmember with a shot bolt going up through. This
is where you will thank yourself for using 1x2" tube because you will only
be able to use and open end wrench to hold the nut.

Rinse and repeat.

-Brian

 

"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:n5gDc.2396$OR4.205328@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and
: leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save
some
: aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its
life
: being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had
: to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.
:
: Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??
:

I wish I had... mine came with a lift kit and was 'just sitting there'. If I
were fabricating as you are, I would have taken the easy route but it didn't
occur to me until the stud was damaged and too late to reuse.

Drop the crossmember and put the nut back on the stud. Cut the stud off
leaving enough thread to accommodate the thickness of the tube and restore
the thread by removing the nut slowly. Install the tube and line it up with
the longer bolt on the other side. Once the stud side is tight, remove the
longer bolt, install the crossmember with a shot bolt going up through. This
is where you will thank yourself for using 1x2" tube because you will only
be able to use and open end wrench to hold the nut.

Rinse and repeat.

-Brian

 

"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:_0gDc.2346$OR4.204700@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: Great, thanks for the info. I planned on double nutting it and putting
some
: heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
: make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)
:
If you do decide to tap, make sure you are DEAD CENTRE when drilling. On the
inside of the frame, one is a nice large meaty nut but the other merely a
thin plate... you'll see what I mean below.

http://members.rogers.com/cherokee-ltd/DSC02062.JPG

-Brian