XJ T-Case Drop Kit
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the stud,
tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut closest
to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
Norm
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> heard.
>
> I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> tighten it.
>
> A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> harder and likely would do the job.
>
> I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> trying to do the job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> >
> > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
> > question.
> >
> > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> > the stud is welded to.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas??
> >
> > -Jeff
> >
> > 98 XJ Classic
> > 3" BD lift
> > MJ Shackles
> > Custom Rear Bumper
> > Custom Rock Sliders
tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut closest
to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
Norm
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> heard.
>
> I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> tighten it.
>
> A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> harder and likely would do the job.
>
> I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> trying to do the job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> >
> > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
> > question.
> >
> > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> > the stud is welded to.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas??
> >
> > -Jeff
> >
> > 98 XJ Classic
> > 3" BD lift
> > MJ Shackles
> > Custom Rear Bumper
> > Custom Rock Sliders
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the stud,
tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut closest
to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
Norm
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> heard.
>
> I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> tighten it.
>
> A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> harder and likely would do the job.
>
> I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> trying to do the job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> >
> > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
> > question.
> >
> > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> > the stud is welded to.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas??
> >
> > -Jeff
> >
> > 98 XJ Classic
> > 3" BD lift
> > MJ Shackles
> > Custom Rear Bumper
> > Custom Rock Sliders
tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut closest
to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
Norm
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> heard.
>
> I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> tighten it.
>
> A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> harder and likely would do the job.
>
> I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> trying to do the job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> >
> > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
> > question.
> >
> > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> > the stud is welded to.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas??
> >
> > -Jeff
> >
> > 98 XJ Classic
> > 3" BD lift
> > MJ Shackles
> > Custom Rear Bumper
> > Custom Rock Sliders
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the stud,
tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut closest
to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
Norm
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> heard.
>
> I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> tighten it.
>
> A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> harder and likely would do the job.
>
> I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> trying to do the job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> >
> > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
> > question.
> >
> > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> > the stud is welded to.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas??
> >
> > -Jeff
> >
> > 98 XJ Classic
> > 3" BD lift
> > MJ Shackles
> > Custom Rear Bumper
> > Custom Rock Sliders
tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut closest
to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
Norm
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> heard.
>
> I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> tighten it.
>
> A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> harder and likely would do the job.
>
> I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> trying to do the job.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> >
> > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
> > question.
> >
> > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
replace
> > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
that
> > the stud is welded to.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas??
> >
> > -Jeff
> >
> > 98 XJ Classic
> > 3" BD lift
> > MJ Shackles
> > Custom Rear Bumper
> > Custom Rock Sliders
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
The stud is not welded but can be a real pain.
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the
uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the
stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and
tapping.
My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on
the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the
opposite end into the frame.
-Brian
"'98 XJ Classic" <Joosterhouse@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DMdDc.8718$lL2.604432@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
installation
: question.
:
: On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
: crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can replace
: it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate that
: the stud is welded to.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas??
:
: -Jeff
:
: 98 XJ Classic
: 3" BD lift
: MJ Shackles
: Custom Rear Bumper
: Custom Rock Sliders
:
:
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
Great, thanks for the info. I planned on double nutting it and putting some
heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)
-jeff
"Norm & Debbie" <nwpars@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:UhfDc.112834$eu.52040@attbi_s02...
> Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the
stud,
> tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut
closest
> to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
> penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
>
> Norm
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> > Yes.
> >
> > That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> > heard.
> >
> > I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> > of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> > tighten it.
> >
> > A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> > harder and likely would do the job.
> >
> > I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> > trying to do the job.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> > >
> > > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> > > question.
> > >
> > > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
> replace
> > > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
> that
> > > the stud is welded to.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > 98 XJ Classic
> > > 3" BD lift
> > > MJ Shackles
> > > Custom Rear Bumper
> > > Custom Rock Sliders
>
>
>
heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)
-jeff
"Norm & Debbie" <nwpars@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:UhfDc.112834$eu.52040@attbi_s02...
> Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the
stud,
> tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut
closest
> to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
> penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
>
> Norm
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> > Yes.
> >
> > That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> > heard.
> >
> > I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> > of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> > tighten it.
> >
> > A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> > harder and likely would do the job.
> >
> > I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> > trying to do the job.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> > >
> > > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> > > question.
> > >
> > > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
> replace
> > > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
> that
> > > the stud is welded to.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > 98 XJ Classic
> > > 3" BD lift
> > > MJ Shackles
> > > Custom Rear Bumper
> > > Custom Rock Sliders
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
Great, thanks for the info. I planned on double nutting it and putting some
heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)
-jeff
"Norm & Debbie" <nwpars@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:UhfDc.112834$eu.52040@attbi_s02...
> Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the
stud,
> tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut
closest
> to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
> penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
>
> Norm
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> > Yes.
> >
> > That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> > heard.
> >
> > I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> > of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> > tighten it.
> >
> > A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> > harder and likely would do the job.
> >
> > I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> > trying to do the job.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> > >
> > > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> > > question.
> > >
> > > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
> replace
> > > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
> that
> > > the stud is welded to.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > 98 XJ Classic
> > > 3" BD lift
> > > MJ Shackles
> > > Custom Rear Bumper
> > > Custom Rock Sliders
>
>
>
heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)
-jeff
"Norm & Debbie" <nwpars@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:UhfDc.112834$eu.52040@attbi_s02...
> Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the
stud,
> tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut
closest
> to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
> penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
>
> Norm
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> > Yes.
> >
> > That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> > heard.
> >
> > I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> > of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> > tighten it.
> >
> > A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> > harder and likely would do the job.
> >
> > I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> > trying to do the job.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> > >
> > > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> > > question.
> > >
> > > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
> replace
> > > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
> that
> > > the stud is welded to.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > 98 XJ Classic
> > > 3" BD lift
> > > MJ Shackles
> > > Custom Rear Bumper
> > > Custom Rock Sliders
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ T-Case Drop Kit
Great, thanks for the info. I planned on double nutting it and putting some
heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)
-jeff
"Norm & Debbie" <nwpars@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:UhfDc.112834$eu.52040@attbi_s02...
> Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the
stud,
> tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut
closest
> to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
> penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
>
> Norm
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> > Yes.
> >
> > That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> > heard.
> >
> > I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> > of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> > tighten it.
> >
> > A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> > harder and likely would do the job.
> >
> > I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> > trying to do the job.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> > >
> > > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> > > question.
> > >
> > > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
> replace
> > > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
> that
> > > the stud is welded to.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > 98 XJ Classic
> > > 3" BD lift
> > > MJ Shackles
> > > Custom Rear Bumper
> > > Custom Rock Sliders
>
>
>
heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to
make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)
-jeff
"Norm & Debbie" <nwpars@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:UhfDc.112834$eu.52040@attbi_s02...
> Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the
stud,
> tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut
closest
> to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use
> penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!
>
> Norm
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40DD788C.A9B3CCD3@sympatico.ca...
> > Yes.
> >
> > That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have
> > heard.
> >
> > I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one
> > of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you
> > tighten it.
> >
> > A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull
> > harder and likely would do the job.
> >
> > I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before
> > trying to do the job.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > '98 XJ Classic wrote:
> > >
> > > I am getting ready to install a t-case drop kit and had a quick
> installation
> > > question.
> > >
> > > On each side of the crossmember there is a stud and bolt holding the
> > > crossmember up. The question is, will that stud come out so I can
> replace
> > > it with a longer bolt?? My fear is that there is some sort of plate
> that
> > > the stud is welded to.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > 98 XJ Classic
> > > 3" BD lift
> > > MJ Shackles
> > > Custom Rear Bumper
> > > Custom Rock Sliders
>
>
>