caps

On Jun 19, 12:51 am, Nobody But Me <inva...@invalid.com> wrote:
> caps <c...@cablespeed.com> wrote innews:1182205246.600787.135980@p77g2000hsh.google groups.com:
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> > On Jun 18, 11:07 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On Jun 17, 5:21 pm, ---- <w...@k7yca.org> wrote:
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> >> > On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 16:23:30 -0700, caps <c...@cablespeed.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >That was my thought and when I saw that the trailer used the
> >> > >chasis for the ground, I installed a wire from each lights ground
> >> > >to the connector/chasis ground point. My jeep has one of the
> >> > >factory installed large round connectors and I use an adapter to
> >> > >connect the four pin connector for the trailer. I though it might
> >> > >be the connector adapter but I tried another one and it made no
> >> > >difference. It is not the trailer lights. When I measure the
> >> > >voltage at the Jeep connector, the left turn signal applies
> >> > >voltage to both the left turn and right turn pins on it. The right
> >> > >turn signal works as it should. The lights on the jeep seem to
> >> > >work as they should but the signal at the connector is wrong.
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> >> > >John C.
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> >> > If the factory tow lighting on a 2001 Cherokee is anything like the
> >> > same on a '93 Grand Cherokee, the wiring is quite complex. It
> >> > involves a number of connectors and 3 relays. I would get a copy
> >> > of the factory service manual to do your failure diagnosis.
> >> > Without a schematic of that system you are really shooting in the
> >> > dark.
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> >> > ----
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> >> > --
> >> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
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> >> If all the wiring is intact, the turn signal/dimmer switch assy. is
> >> where it all "Y's" together...- Hide quoted text -
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> >> - Show quoted text -
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> > Ok, I'm a little closer to zeroing in on the problem. I pulled all 13
> > of the LED bulbs and put the stock ones back in. Left the electonic
> > flasher unit in since it is more trouble to replace. Everything works
> > as it is supposed to. I put the LED side marker and top brake LED
> > back in and everything still works ok. Don't have time today but I am
> > going to put the LED lights back in one at a time until the problem
> > re- appears.
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> > John C.
>
> That may be a current draw issue. Too little current draw can stop the
> flasher unit designed for higher currents.- Hide quoted text -
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> - Show quoted text -

The flasher unit is an electronic one and is supposed to work with
either LED bulbs or Incadescent. It works fine with the regular
bulbs. I did some testing on one of the LED brake lite bulbs. Its
one of those kind that has 25 small LEDs with some sort of electronic
circuit in it. Its a replacement for a standard 3157 dual filament
bulb. I found that the bulb does not have two separate electrical
paths like a filament bulb does. The LED bulb is non-polarized and
you can apply 12V to ANY two connections on the LED bulb and it will
light. Three of the possible six connections cause a bright beam
(Brake) and three cause low beam (Running light). I'm thinking that
maybe I can put a couple diodes inside the bulb housing to polarize
them and prevent the electrical cross connection at the Positive side
of the circuit. This would give the same effect as having two
separate filaments - I think.

John C.