WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
05-06-2006, 03:00 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
> It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> reassembly.
It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
Neverseize the slides.
It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
the problem.
Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
--
Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
<snip>
> Ted Borck wrote:
> > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> >
> > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> >
> > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> >
> > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> >
> > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> >
> > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > further incident.
> >
> > WTF!
> >
> > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> >
> > Anyone have a better fix?
> >
> > --
> > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
> It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> reassembly.
It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
Neverseize the slides.
It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
the problem.
Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
--
Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
<snip>
> Ted Borck wrote:
> > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> >
> > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> >
> > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> >
> > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> >
> > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> >
> > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > further incident.
> >
> > WTF!
> >
> > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> >
> > Anyone have a better fix?
> >
> > --
> > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 03:00 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
> It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> reassembly.
It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
Neverseize the slides.
It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
the problem.
Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
--
Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
<snip>
> Ted Borck wrote:
> > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> >
> > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> >
> > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> >
> > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> >
> > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> >
> > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > further incident.
> >
> > WTF!
> >
> > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> >
> > Anyone have a better fix?
> >
> > --
> > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
> It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> reassembly.
It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
Neverseize the slides.
It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
the problem.
Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
--
Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
<snip>
> Ted Borck wrote:
> > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> >
> > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> >
> > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> >
> > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> >
> > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> >
> > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > further incident.
> >
> > WTF!
> >
> > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> >
> > Anyone have a better fix?
> >
> > --
> > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 04:39 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
Do you own a torque wrench for the wheel lug nuts?
That's about the only other thing that causes warped rotors, except for
the TSB that was mentioned that says the teves caliper is a POS and
doesn't work, another brand is needed....
One gent got it done under warranty....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
That's about the only other thing that causes warped rotors, except for
the TSB that was mentioned that says the teves caliper is a POS and
doesn't work, another brand is needed....
One gent got it done under warranty....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 04:39 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
Do you own a torque wrench for the wheel lug nuts?
That's about the only other thing that causes warped rotors, except for
the TSB that was mentioned that says the teves caliper is a POS and
doesn't work, another brand is needed....
One gent got it done under warranty....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
That's about the only other thing that causes warped rotors, except for
the TSB that was mentioned that says the teves caliper is a POS and
doesn't work, another brand is needed....
One gent got it done under warranty....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 04:39 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
Do you own a torque wrench for the wheel lug nuts?
That's about the only other thing that causes warped rotors, except for
the TSB that was mentioned that says the teves caliper is a POS and
doesn't work, another brand is needed....
One gent got it done under warranty....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
That's about the only other thing that causes warped rotors, except for
the TSB that was mentioned that says the teves caliper is a POS and
doesn't work, another brand is needed....
One gent got it done under warranty....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging (smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 06:14 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
It doesn't hurt a bit, to open the bleeder and waste the contents of the
piston when replacing pads. Especially when the likely alternative is to
force all that old fluid out the master cylinder and all over your (painted)
inner fender.
Earle
"Ted Borck" <tborck@panix.com> wrote in message
news:e3iroc$9ke$1@reader1.panix.com...
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
(smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with
no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
piston when replacing pads. Especially when the likely alternative is to
force all that old fluid out the master cylinder and all over your (painted)
inner fender.
Earle
"Ted Borck" <tborck@panix.com> wrote in message
news:e3iroc$9ke$1@reader1.panix.com...
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
(smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with
no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 06:14 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
It doesn't hurt a bit, to open the bleeder and waste the contents of the
piston when replacing pads. Especially when the likely alternative is to
force all that old fluid out the master cylinder and all over your (painted)
inner fender.
Earle
"Ted Borck" <tborck@panix.com> wrote in message
news:e3iroc$9ke$1@reader1.panix.com...
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
(smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with
no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
piston when replacing pads. Especially when the likely alternative is to
force all that old fluid out the master cylinder and all over your (painted)
inner fender.
Earle
"Ted Borck" <tborck@panix.com> wrote in message
news:e3iroc$9ke$1@reader1.panix.com...
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
(smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with
no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 06:14 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
It doesn't hurt a bit, to open the bleeder and waste the contents of the
piston when replacing pads. Especially when the likely alternative is to
force all that old fluid out the master cylinder and all over your (painted)
inner fender.
Earle
"Ted Borck" <tborck@panix.com> wrote in message
news:e3iroc$9ke$1@reader1.panix.com...
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
(smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with
no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
piston when replacing pads. Especially when the likely alternative is to
force all that old fluid out the master cylinder and all over your (painted)
inner fender.
Earle
"Ted Borck" <tborck@panix.com> wrote in message
news:e3iroc$9ke$1@reader1.panix.com...
> twaldron <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote:
>
> > It IS possible that your 'new' Teves caliper is bad. Can you do a
> > warranty exchange? Also, I'd douse everything in brake cleaner prior to
> > reassembly.
>
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
>
> <snip>
>
> > Ted Borck wrote:
> > > 2000 WJ, 4 liter, 2WD, now with 105 K.
> > >
> > > 96 K: Replaced both front rotors, due to warped rotors - judder in
> > > steering wheel - but *never* smelled hot brake pads.
> > >
> > > 98K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
(smells
> > > and vapor). Replaced *both* front Teves calipers.
> > >
> > > 104.7K: Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive dragging
> > > (smells and vapor smoke). Replaced left front brake line.
> > >
> > > 105K: Today - Left front caliper (driver side) exhibited excessive
> > > dragging (smells and vapor smoke).
> > >
> > > Stopped, let the caliper & rotor cool, and drove home (10 miles) with
no
> > > further incident.
> > >
> > > WTF!
> > >
> > > Does this mean that I need to remove, lubricate the caliper/brake pad
> > > slide areas with Neverseize, every time I change the engine oil?
> > >
> > > Anyone have a better fix?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 07:10 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
Hi Ted,
No one has ever told us what was wrong that caused the rotors to
wrap, but Daimler replaced both the rotor and calipers under warranty:
http://www.----------.com/WJCaliber.jpg They were probably initially
machined out of align.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
No one has ever told us what was wrong that caused the rotors to
wrap, but Daimler replaced both the rotor and calipers under warranty:
http://www.----------.com/WJCaliber.jpg They were probably initially
machined out of align.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
05-06-2006, 07:10 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: WJ Teves Calipers Chronology
Hi Ted,
No one has ever told us what was wrong that caused the rotors to
wrap, but Daimler replaced both the rotor and calipers under warranty:
http://www.----------.com/WJCaliber.jpg They were probably initially
machined out of align.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com
No one has ever told us what was wrong that caused the rotors to
wrap, but Daimler replaced both the rotor and calipers under warranty:
http://www.----------.com/WJCaliber.jpg They were probably initially
machined out of align.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Ted Borck wrote:
>
> It's possible - am going to remove the offending caliper, polish and
> Neverseize the slides.
>
> It's disappointing that no-one has come up with a cause diagnosis other
> than replace parts. Which I did - but didn't prevent a re-occurance of
> the problem.
>
> Is it possible that when I previously R&R'd brake pads (on the original
> calipers) that pressing the pads & pistons back - back back flushed some
> crap out of the calipers and back up into the metal brake line?
>
> --
> Ted Borck tborck@panix.com