Winter Parking Preparations
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
Actually, some two stroke oil already has fuel stabilizer in it, so that
makes it actually more stabil than just plain old gas.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Interesting.
>
> I always associated the varnishing up issues with 2 stroke mixed fuel,
> not gasoline.
>
> Mike
>
> twaldron wrote:
>
>>Mike, check this out...
>>
>><http://www.i4at.org/surv/sta-bil.htm>
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, no argument from me on that.
>>>
>>>I only had gas in the tank, no lines or engine was attached.
>>>
>>>Where do you get gas stabilizer? I have never seen or really heard of
>>>it besides here.
>>>
>>>I always ran my 2 strokes out of fuel in the system before winter
>>>storage so I guess I never had the varnish issue, but do remember it
>>>now.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>
>>--
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>tw
>>
>>03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
>>01 XJ Sport
>>
>>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
>>-- Dave Barry
>>
>>Pronunciation: 'jEp
>>Function: noun
>>Date: 1940
>>
>>Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
>>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
>>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
>>World War II.
>>
>>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
>>________________________________________________ ___________
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
makes it actually more stabil than just plain old gas.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Interesting.
>
> I always associated the varnishing up issues with 2 stroke mixed fuel,
> not gasoline.
>
> Mike
>
> twaldron wrote:
>
>>Mike, check this out...
>>
>><http://www.i4at.org/surv/sta-bil.htm>
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, no argument from me on that.
>>>
>>>I only had gas in the tank, no lines or engine was attached.
>>>
>>>Where do you get gas stabilizer? I have never seen or really heard of
>>>it besides here.
>>>
>>>I always ran my 2 strokes out of fuel in the system before winter
>>>storage so I guess I never had the varnish issue, but do remember it
>>>now.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>
>>--
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>tw
>>
>>03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
>>01 XJ Sport
>>
>>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
>>-- Dave Barry
>>
>>Pronunciation: 'jEp
>>Function: noun
>>Date: 1940
>>
>>Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
>>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
>>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
>>World War II.
>>
>>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
>>________________________________________________ ___________
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
> The very best solution is to not do it. If you drive it 30 minutes
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
> The very best solution is to not do it. If you drive it 30 minutes
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
> The very best solution is to not do it. If you drive it 30 minutes
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
> The very best solution is to not do it. If you drive it 30 minutes
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
> every few weeks to thoroughly warm up the drivetrain fluids, and keep
> the gas tank filled and use stabilizer, you don't need to do anything
> else.
>
> If you are concerned about salt damage, then parking it makes sense.
>
> John
I've actually not fully decided what to do. Here's what I'm dealing with:
- The Jeep has quite a bit of surface rust starting and a few are all the
way through the body. Both floor boards have 4x4" holes in them.
- I already have a daily driving car for winter.
- I have only a softtop with no back window. I'm trying to find a hardtop or
a good softtop but no luck yet.
- It's freakin cold here!! I drove my '88 YJ for a winter and it sucked. I
even had a huge BTU auxillary heater in the back but it still sucked!! ;p
- The salt on the roads here is comparable to the ocean. I'd definitely see
an increase in rust if I drove it in winter here.
- I'm trying to get some of the body work done by just sanding the rust out
and patching over with fiberglass but it's already getting pretty cold out
and I won't come even close to finishing.
- My carb is finished. Instead of doing the carb-cleaning/fixing tricks
....I'm attempting to locate a good used Weber carb but I don't think it'll
be bought/installed before winter. So I'm stuck with like 10mpg.
- I hate working on vehicles outside in the winter, so if it breaks down
(which it probably would), it would be sitting anyway. I figure it's better
to have it all done right and parked properly before it gets cold then to
have to do it all when it's -30F.
- If I park it, the insurance comes off it ...but then I gotta resafety it
next spring. Blah!! ;p At least I'd save $400 in insurance tho. I think all
it really needs to have done to pass is the floorboards.
- I plan to sell my car sometime this winter and buy a new one. There could
be a few weeks without a vehicle. Keeping the Jeep on the road solves this
problem.
- I like having an extra vehicle on the road in case my other car gets
stuck, fails, etc.
So, that's a list of everything floating around in my head ...both pros and
cons ...still undecided but time is running out as winter is almost here.
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
Here's a list of storage things some people I know do with their classic
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
Here's a list of storage things some people I know do with their classic
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
Here's a list of storage things some people I know do with their classic
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
Here's a list of storage things some people I know do with their classic
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
cars
Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
few days before storing.
Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
the spring)
Fill gas tank
add fuel stabilizer
fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of oil
to each cylinder)
disconnect battery
place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
Cover vehicle
Have a beer and think about the following summer.
"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It gets
> very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of body
> rust (some all the way through).
>
> Thanks!
>
> griffin
> '85 CJ7
>
>
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Winter Parking Preparations
Thanks for the list! One question ...what does "fog the engine" mean?
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
"Snow" <snowball_2004@msn.com> wrote in message
news:eNpWc.8360$DG.409323@news20.bellglobal.com...
> Here's a list of storage things some people I know do with their classic
> cars
> Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
> Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
> Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
> few days before storing.
> Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
> the spring)
> Fill gas tank
> add fuel stabilizer
> fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of
oil
> to each cylinder)
> disconnect battery
> place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
> the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
> Cover vehicle
> Have a beer and think about the following summer.
>
> "griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> > I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> > preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It
gets
> > very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> > gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of
body
> > rust (some all the way through).
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > griffin
> > '85 CJ7
> >
> >
>
>
Thanks!
griffin
'97 Corolla SD
'85 Jeep CJ7
"Snow" <snowball_2004@msn.com> wrote in message
news:eNpWc.8360$DG.409323@news20.bellglobal.com...
> Here's a list of storage things some people I know do with their classic
> cars
> Wash and clean both outside and inside of vehicle
> Do a complete wax job to vehicle (at least 3 days prior to storing)
> Some serious guys will also get the vehicle rust-proofed (at rust check) a
> few days before storing.
> Day of storing apply a second coat of wax, let haze (buff this coat off in
> the spring)
> Fill gas tank
> add fuel stabilizer
> fog the engine (if storage is more then 6 months they also add a tsp of
oil
> to each cylinder)
> disconnect battery
> place cedar tree cuttings on floor mats, under seats and on pillowcases on
> the tops of seats (helps keep mice away and out of upholstery.
> Cover vehicle
> Have a beer and think about the following summer.
>
> "griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:Z6cWc.191329$gE.131244@pd7tw3no...
> > I think I'm going to park the CJ7 for the winter but I'm wondering what
> > preparations I can make to help prevent any problems next spring. It
gets
> > very cold here (-35C or -30F approx) and it will be parked outside on a
> > gravel driveway. It's pretty much stock with some growing amounts of
body
> > rust (some all the way through).
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > griffin
> > '85 CJ7
> >
> >
>
>