Well lets see now the master cylider is off, the brake lines are on
order, the front has been disassembled right down to the dust shield
which has been sanded and has a coat of paint on it.

Oh yeah the new bearings & seals are on the work bench along with the
calipers and the rotors are at NAPA where they were turned today.

So I ask when does it end.

Really its not so bad I'm taking the time to really get the assmebly
cleaned up and am adding POR-15!

Any other advice?

 

Jack-Jack wrote:

> Well lets see now the master cylider is off, the brake lines are on
> order, the front has been disassembled right down to the dust shield
> which has been sanded and has a coat of paint on it.
>
> Oh yeah the new bearings & seals are on the work bench along with the
> calipers and the rotors are at NAPA where they were turned today.
>
> So I ask when does it end.
>
> Really its not so bad I'm taking the time to really get the assmebly
> cleaned up and am adding POR-15!
>
> Any other advice?

Jack,

Did you checked the tie-rod ends and the steering knuckle ball studs for
slop before you pulled things apart? This is the time to replace them if
they need it. The tie rods you can replace any time, but the steering
knuckle ball stud replacement requires that you remove the tie-rods (on top
of everything else you've pulled), which usually does a number on the
tie-rod end's seal.

The parts cost is pretty minimal. The tie rod ends are usually pretty easy
to replace, but the ball studs require either a press or a sturdily-mounted
vise, gear puller, and a lot of elbow grease. If you've never done it, you
may as well bite the bullet and replace them now. Otherwise, you may get
vibration from your front end and your alignment may never be right.

Either that or you can put it back together and hope for the best.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer

 

Jack-Jack wrote:

> Well lets see now the master cylider is off, the brake lines are on
> order, the front has been disassembled right down to the dust shield
> which has been sanded and has a coat of paint on it.
>
> Oh yeah the new bearings & seals are on the work bench along with the
> calipers and the rotors are at NAPA where they were turned today.
>
> So I ask when does it end.
>
> Really its not so bad I'm taking the time to really get the assmebly
> cleaned up and am adding POR-15!
>
> Any other advice?

Jack,

Did you checked the tie-rod ends and the steering knuckle ball studs for
slop before you pulled things apart? This is the time to replace them if
they need it. The tie rods you can replace any time, but the steering
knuckle ball stud replacement requires that you remove the tie-rods (on top
of everything else you've pulled), which usually does a number on the
tie-rod end's seal.

The parts cost is pretty minimal. The tie rod ends are usually pretty easy
to replace, but the ball studs require either a press or a sturdily-mounted
vise, gear puller, and a lot of elbow grease. If you've never done it, you
may as well bite the bullet and replace them now. Otherwise, you may get
vibration from your front end and your alignment may never be right.

Either that or you can put it back together and hope for the best.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer

 

Jack-Jack wrote:

> Well lets see now the master cylider is off, the brake lines are on
> order, the front has been disassembled right down to the dust shield
> which has been sanded and has a coat of paint on it.
>
> Oh yeah the new bearings & seals are on the work bench along with the
> calipers and the rotors are at NAPA where they were turned today.
>
> So I ask when does it end.
>
> Really its not so bad I'm taking the time to really get the assmebly
> cleaned up and am adding POR-15!
>
> Any other advice?

Jack,

Did you checked the tie-rod ends and the steering knuckle ball studs for
slop before you pulled things apart? This is the time to replace them if
they need it. The tie rods you can replace any time, but the steering
knuckle ball stud replacement requires that you remove the tie-rods (on top
of everything else you've pulled), which usually does a number on the
tie-rod end's seal.

The parts cost is pretty minimal. The tie rod ends are usually pretty easy
to replace, but the ball studs require either a press or a sturdily-mounted
vise, gear puller, and a lot of elbow grease. If you've never done it, you
may as well bite the bullet and replace them now. Otherwise, you may get
vibration from your front end and your alignment may never be right.

Either that or you can put it back together and hope for the best.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer

 

Use the new synthetic DOT 4. it is backwards compatible with DOT 3 but
doesn't absorb as much water, lessens corrosion, has a higher boiling point.
Flush every 2 years

The down side is that it will cost you an extra $1 to flush and fill the
system with some left over..

DOT 3 was $3.99/qt
Valvoline SynPower DOT 4 was $4.99/qt

--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Jack-Jack" <alpath@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1130296476.263337.57440@g44g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Well lets see now the master cylider is off, the brake lines are on
> order, the front has been disassembled right down to the dust shield
> which has been sanded and has a coat of paint on it.
>
> Oh yeah the new bearings & seals are on the work bench along with the
> calipers and the rotors are at NAPA where they were turned today.
>
> So I ask when does it end.
>
> Really its not so bad I'm taking the time to really get the assmebly
> cleaned up and am adding POR-15!
>
> Any other advice?
>

 

Use the new synthetic DOT 4. it is backwards compatible with DOT 3 but
doesn't absorb as much water, lessens corrosion, has a higher boiling point.
Flush every 2 years

The down side is that it will cost you an extra $1 to flush and fill the
system with some left over..

DOT 3 was $3.99/qt
Valvoline SynPower DOT 4 was $4.99/qt

--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Jack-Jack" <alpath@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1130296476.263337.57440@g44g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Well lets see now the master cylider is off, the brake lines are on
> order, the front has been disassembled right down to the dust shield
> which has been sanded and has a coat of paint on it.
>
> Oh yeah the new bearings & seals are on the work bench along with the
> calipers and the rotors are at NAPA where they were turned today.
>
> So I ask when does it end.
>
> Really its not so bad I'm taking the time to really get the assmebly
> cleaned up and am adding POR-15!
>
> Any other advice?
>

 

Use the new synthetic DOT 4. it is backwards compatible with DOT 3 but
doesn't absorb as much water, lessens corrosion, has a higher boiling point.
Flush every 2 years

The down side is that it will cost you an extra $1 to flush and fill the
system with some left over..

DOT 3 was $3.99/qt
Valvoline SynPower DOT 4 was $4.99/qt

--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Jack-Jack" <alpath@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1130296476.263337.57440@g44g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Well lets see now the master cylider is off, the brake lines are on
> order, the front has been disassembled right down to the dust shield
> which has been sanded and has a coat of paint on it.
>
> Oh yeah the new bearings & seals are on the work bench along with the
> calipers and the rotors are at NAPA where they were turned today.
>
> So I ask when does it end.
>
> Really its not so bad I'm taking the time to really get the assmebly
> cleaned up and am adding POR-15!
>
> Any other advice?
>