I will only believe the torque settings on wheel bearings that are new
with new hubs and spindles.

On a repack, I don't use a torque wrench, I go by the bearing 'feel'.
When I can feel the bearings grab or rumble, I back it off, spin the
tire again and tighten some more. I keep doing this until the nut won't
suck in any more and the same backing off and tire spin stops the nut at
the same place.

Then I back it off and add the washer and lock nut. I usually get at
least an extra half turn after the first grab of the bearings.

Maybe my Haynes figures 50 lb will seat them and yours figures 80 and
the different backing off makes sense, but either way one seating never
works for me on a repack, I usually need 4 or more to get them nice and
snug.

I tried using a torque wrench and doing it 'by the book' once on my CJ7
and the wheel was flopping around after 2 weeks.

Mike

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> My FSM says the same thing, but the torque spec they use is 80 pounds
> instead of 50. Tighten to spec, then back off 1/8th turn. My FSM says the
> outer nut gets tightened to 50 lbs, then the lock washer gets folded over.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F8D5B95.8AF4ECA@sympatico.ca...
> > You tighten the inner nut while rotating the wheel until the bearings
> > bind or around 50 ft lb. You then back it off 1/16 turn, add the washer
> > and the outside lock nut and torque that to 50 ft lb then bend the
> > washer tabs over.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > >
> > > On the tightness issue, I have been having trouble with extremely short
> life
> > > of the wheel bearings on the front. I thought the torque spec was
> something
> > > like 80 pounds on the inner spindle nut, which (as I sit here and give
> > > advise) hits me as a bit aggressive, and perhaps part of why I keep
> > > replacing the wheel bearings. Do you know the exact spec for each of the
> > > spindle nuts on the CJ?
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F8C005C.319227C9@sympatico.ca...
> > > > Rotors or the hub?
> > > >
> > > > I guess I read or took that wrong.
> > > >
> > > > As others have mentioned, a screwdriver works quite well for the big
> > > > nut, especially if one has been used before. They are not on tight.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > That helps get the calipers off, but he asked about the rotors.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F8AB9DD.A664364B@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > My 86 needs a 7 mm allen key.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hrd wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 79 CJ-7... What special socket is needed to remove the rotors
> to
> > > > > replace the
> > > > > > > front wheel bearings?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks

 

I will only believe the torque settings on wheel bearings that are new
with new hubs and spindles.

On a repack, I don't use a torque wrench, I go by the bearing 'feel'.
When I can feel the bearings grab or rumble, I back it off, spin the
tire again and tighten some more. I keep doing this until the nut won't
suck in any more and the same backing off and tire spin stops the nut at
the same place.

Then I back it off and add the washer and lock nut. I usually get at
least an extra half turn after the first grab of the bearings.

Maybe my Haynes figures 50 lb will seat them and yours figures 80 and
the different backing off makes sense, but either way one seating never
works for me on a repack, I usually need 4 or more to get them nice and
snug.

I tried using a torque wrench and doing it 'by the book' once on my CJ7
and the wheel was flopping around after 2 weeks.

Mike

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> My FSM says the same thing, but the torque spec they use is 80 pounds
> instead of 50. Tighten to spec, then back off 1/8th turn. My FSM says the
> outer nut gets tightened to 50 lbs, then the lock washer gets folded over.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F8D5B95.8AF4ECA@sympatico.ca...
> > You tighten the inner nut while rotating the wheel until the bearings
> > bind or around 50 ft lb. You then back it off 1/16 turn, add the washer
> > and the outside lock nut and torque that to 50 ft lb then bend the
> > washer tabs over.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > >
> > > On the tightness issue, I have been having trouble with extremely short
> life
> > > of the wheel bearings on the front. I thought the torque spec was
> something
> > > like 80 pounds on the inner spindle nut, which (as I sit here and give
> > > advise) hits me as a bit aggressive, and perhaps part of why I keep
> > > replacing the wheel bearings. Do you know the exact spec for each of the
> > > spindle nuts on the CJ?
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F8C005C.319227C9@sympatico.ca...
> > > > Rotors or the hub?
> > > >
> > > > I guess I read or took that wrong.
> > > >
> > > > As others have mentioned, a screwdriver works quite well for the big
> > > > nut, especially if one has been used before. They are not on tight.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > That helps get the calipers off, but he asked about the rotors.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F8AB9DD.A664364B@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > My 86 needs a 7 mm allen key.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hrd wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 79 CJ-7... What special socket is needed to remove the rotors
> to
> > > > > replace the
> > > > > > > front wheel bearings?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks

 

I will only believe the torque settings on wheel bearings that are new
with new hubs and spindles.

On a repack, I don't use a torque wrench, I go by the bearing 'feel'.
When I can feel the bearings grab or rumble, I back it off, spin the
tire again and tighten some more. I keep doing this until the nut won't
suck in any more and the same backing off and tire spin stops the nut at
the same place.

Then I back it off and add the washer and lock nut. I usually get at
least an extra half turn after the first grab of the bearings.

Maybe my Haynes figures 50 lb will seat them and yours figures 80 and
the different backing off makes sense, but either way one seating never
works for me on a repack, I usually need 4 or more to get them nice and
snug.

I tried using a torque wrench and doing it 'by the book' once on my CJ7
and the wheel was flopping around after 2 weeks.

Mike

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> My FSM says the same thing, but the torque spec they use is 80 pounds
> instead of 50. Tighten to spec, then back off 1/8th turn. My FSM says the
> outer nut gets tightened to 50 lbs, then the lock washer gets folded over.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F8D5B95.8AF4ECA@sympatico.ca...
> > You tighten the inner nut while rotating the wheel until the bearings
> > bind or around 50 ft lb. You then back it off 1/16 turn, add the washer
> > and the outside lock nut and torque that to 50 ft lb then bend the
> > washer tabs over.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > >
> > > On the tightness issue, I have been having trouble with extremely short
> life
> > > of the wheel bearings on the front. I thought the torque spec was
> something
> > > like 80 pounds on the inner spindle nut, which (as I sit here and give
> > > advise) hits me as a bit aggressive, and perhaps part of why I keep
> > > replacing the wheel bearings. Do you know the exact spec for each of the
> > > spindle nuts on the CJ?
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F8C005C.319227C9@sympatico.ca...
> > > > Rotors or the hub?
> > > >
> > > > I guess I read or took that wrong.
> > > >
> > > > As others have mentioned, a screwdriver works quite well for the big
> > > > nut, especially if one has been used before. They are not on tight.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > That helps get the calipers off, but he asked about the rotors.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F8AB9DD.A664364B@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > My 86 needs a 7 mm allen key.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hrd wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 79 CJ-7... What special socket is needed to remove the rotors
> to
> > > > > replace the
> > > > > > > front wheel bearings?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks

 

That's my problem then. I used my torque wrench with new bearings on old
spindles. I can crank them down and back them off until I get them seated,
then crank them down one more time and back off until they sound good, even
if this isn't the 80 lb spec. I actually put the tire on with a couple of
lug nuts so I can turn the hub and load the bearing at the same time. I am
certain that I am mashing them in to the 80 lb click on my wrench.

On second thought, do we care that the spindles and or hubs are new or old?
The inside of the bearing race is not supposed to spin on the spindle, the
bearings roll around on the races, and these are new everytime. All we are
torquing is the preload on the bearings themselves, the condition of the
hubs and spindles is not all that critical, is it? Of course the condition
is important, but not from the perspective of the spindle nut pre load on
the bearings.






"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F8DC609.7328D44@sympatico.ca...
> I will only believe the torque settings on wheel bearings that are new
> with new hubs and spindles.
>
> On a repack, I don't use a torque wrench, I go by the bearing 'feel'.
> When I can feel the bearings grab or rumble, I back it off, spin the
> tire again and tighten some more. I keep doing this until the nut won't
> suck in any more and the same backing off and tire spin stops the nut at
> the same place.
>
> Then I back it off and add the washer and lock nut. I usually get at
> least an extra half turn after the first grab of the bearings.
>
> Maybe my Haynes figures 50 lb will seat them and yours figures 80 and
> the different backing off makes sense, but either way one seating never
> works for me on a repack, I usually need 4 or more to get them nice and
> snug.
>
> I tried using a torque wrench and doing it 'by the book' once on my CJ7
> and the wheel was flopping around after 2 weeks.
>
> Mike
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > My FSM says the same thing, but the torque spec they use is 80 pounds
> > instead of 50. Tighten to spec, then back off 1/8th turn. My FSM says
the
> > outer nut gets tightened to 50 lbs, then the lock washer gets folded
over.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F8D5B95.8AF4ECA@sympatico.ca...
> > > You tighten the inner nut while rotating the wheel until the bearings
> > > bind or around 50 ft lb. You then back it off 1/16 turn, add the
washer
> > > and the outside lock nut and torque that to 50 ft lb then bend the
> > > washer tabs over.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On the tightness issue, I have been having trouble with extremely
short
> > life
> > > > of the wheel bearings on the front. I thought the torque spec was
> > something
> > > > like 80 pounds on the inner spindle nut, which (as I sit here and
give
> > > > advise) hits me as a bit aggressive, and perhaps part of why I keep
> > > > replacing the wheel bearings. Do you know the exact spec for each of
the
> > > > spindle nuts on the CJ?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F8C005C.319227C9@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > Rotors or the hub?
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess I read or took that wrong.
> > > > >
> > > > > As others have mentioned, a screwdriver works quite well for the
big
> > > > > nut, especially if one has been used before. They are not on
tight.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > That helps get the calipers off, but he asked about the rotors.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F8AB9DD.A664364B@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > My 86 needs a 7 mm allen key.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hrd wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 79 CJ-7... What special socket is needed to remove the
rotors
> > to
> > > > > > replace the
> > > > > > > > front wheel bearings?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks

 

That's my problem then. I used my torque wrench with new bearings on old
spindles. I can crank them down and back them off until I get them seated,
then crank them down one more time and back off until they sound good, even
if this isn't the 80 lb spec. I actually put the tire on with a couple of
lug nuts so I can turn the hub and load the bearing at the same time. I am
certain that I am mashing them in to the 80 lb click on my wrench.

On second thought, do we care that the spindles and or hubs are new or old?
The inside of the bearing race is not supposed to spin on the spindle, the
bearings roll around on the races, and these are new everytime. All we are
torquing is the preload on the bearings themselves, the condition of the
hubs and spindles is not all that critical, is it? Of course the condition
is important, but not from the perspective of the spindle nut pre load on
the bearings.






"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F8DC609.7328D44@sympatico.ca...
> I will only believe the torque settings on wheel bearings that are new
> with new hubs and spindles.
>
> On a repack, I don't use a torque wrench, I go by the bearing 'feel'.
> When I can feel the bearings grab or rumble, I back it off, spin the
> tire again and tighten some more. I keep doing this until the nut won't
> suck in any more and the same backing off and tire spin stops the nut at
> the same place.
>
> Then I back it off and add the washer and lock nut. I usually get at
> least an extra half turn after the first grab of the bearings.
>
> Maybe my Haynes figures 50 lb will seat them and yours figures 80 and
> the different backing off makes sense, but either way one seating never
> works for me on a repack, I usually need 4 or more to get them nice and
> snug.
>
> I tried using a torque wrench and doing it 'by the book' once on my CJ7
> and the wheel was flopping around after 2 weeks.
>
> Mike
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > My FSM says the same thing, but the torque spec they use is 80 pounds
> > instead of 50. Tighten to spec, then back off 1/8th turn. My FSM says
the
> > outer nut gets tightened to 50 lbs, then the lock washer gets folded
over.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F8D5B95.8AF4ECA@sympatico.ca...
> > > You tighten the inner nut while rotating the wheel until the bearings
> > > bind or around 50 ft lb. You then back it off 1/16 turn, add the
washer
> > > and the outside lock nut and torque that to 50 ft lb then bend the
> > > washer tabs over.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On the tightness issue, I have been having trouble with extremely
short
> > life
> > > > of the wheel bearings on the front. I thought the torque spec was
> > something
> > > > like 80 pounds on the inner spindle nut, which (as I sit here and
give
> > > > advise) hits me as a bit aggressive, and perhaps part of why I keep
> > > > replacing the wheel bearings. Do you know the exact spec for each of
the
> > > > spindle nuts on the CJ?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F8C005C.319227C9@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > Rotors or the hub?
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess I read or took that wrong.
> > > > >
> > > > > As others have mentioned, a screwdriver works quite well for the
big
> > > > > nut, especially if one has been used before. They are not on
tight.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > That helps get the calipers off, but he asked about the rotors.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F8AB9DD.A664364B@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > My 86 needs a 7 mm allen key.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hrd wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 79 CJ-7... What special socket is needed to remove the
rotors
> > to
> > > > > > replace the
> > > > > > > > front wheel bearings?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks

 

That's my problem then. I used my torque wrench with new bearings on old
spindles. I can crank them down and back them off until I get them seated,
then crank them down one more time and back off until they sound good, even
if this isn't the 80 lb spec. I actually put the tire on with a couple of
lug nuts so I can turn the hub and load the bearing at the same time. I am
certain that I am mashing them in to the 80 lb click on my wrench.

On second thought, do we care that the spindles and or hubs are new or old?
The inside of the bearing race is not supposed to spin on the spindle, the
bearings roll around on the races, and these are new everytime. All we are
torquing is the preload on the bearings themselves, the condition of the
hubs and spindles is not all that critical, is it? Of course the condition
is important, but not from the perspective of the spindle nut pre load on
the bearings.






"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F8DC609.7328D44@sympatico.ca...
> I will only believe the torque settings on wheel bearings that are new
> with new hubs and spindles.
>
> On a repack, I don't use a torque wrench, I go by the bearing 'feel'.
> When I can feel the bearings grab or rumble, I back it off, spin the
> tire again and tighten some more. I keep doing this until the nut won't
> suck in any more and the same backing off and tire spin stops the nut at
> the same place.
>
> Then I back it off and add the washer and lock nut. I usually get at
> least an extra half turn after the first grab of the bearings.
>
> Maybe my Haynes figures 50 lb will seat them and yours figures 80 and
> the different backing off makes sense, but either way one seating never
> works for me on a repack, I usually need 4 or more to get them nice and
> snug.
>
> I tried using a torque wrench and doing it 'by the book' once on my CJ7
> and the wheel was flopping around after 2 weeks.
>
> Mike
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >
> > My FSM says the same thing, but the torque spec they use is 80 pounds
> > instead of 50. Tighten to spec, then back off 1/8th turn. My FSM says
the
> > outer nut gets tightened to 50 lbs, then the lock washer gets folded
over.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F8D5B95.8AF4ECA@sympatico.ca...
> > > You tighten the inner nut while rotating the wheel until the bearings
> > > bind or around 50 ft lb. You then back it off 1/16 turn, add the
washer
> > > and the outside lock nut and torque that to 50 ft lb then bend the
> > > washer tabs over.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On the tightness issue, I have been having trouble with extremely
short
> > life
> > > > of the wheel bearings on the front. I thought the torque spec was
> > something
> > > > like 80 pounds on the inner spindle nut, which (as I sit here and
give
> > > > advise) hits me as a bit aggressive, and perhaps part of why I keep
> > > > replacing the wheel bearings. Do you know the exact spec for each of
the
> > > > spindle nuts on the CJ?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F8C005C.319227C9@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > Rotors or the hub?
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess I read or took that wrong.
> > > > >
> > > > > As others have mentioned, a screwdriver works quite well for the
big
> > > > > nut, especially if one has been used before. They are not on
tight.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > That helps get the calipers off, but he asked about the rotors.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F8AB9DD.A664364B@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > My 86 needs a 7 mm allen key.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hrd wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 79 CJ-7... What special socket is needed to remove the
rotors
> > to
> > > > > > replace the
> > > > > > > > front wheel bearings?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks

 

And the lock washer will take that without shearing?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> That's my problem then. I used my torque wrench with new bearings on old
> spindles. I can crank them down and back them off until I get them seated,
> then crank them down one more time and back off until they sound good, even
> if this isn't the 80 lb spec. I actually put the tire on with a couple of
> lug nuts so I can turn the hub and load the bearing at the same time. I am
> certain that I am mashing them in to the 80 lb click on my wrench.
>
> On second thought, do we care that the spindles and or hubs are new or old?
> The inside of the bearing race is not supposed to spin on the spindle, the
> bearings roll around on the races, and these are new everytime. All we are
> torquing is the preload on the bearings themselves, the condition of the
> hubs and spindles is not all that critical, is it? Of course the condition
> is important, but not from the perspective of the spindle nut pre load on
> the bearings.

 

And the lock washer will take that without shearing?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> That's my problem then. I used my torque wrench with new bearings on old
> spindles. I can crank them down and back them off until I get them seated,
> then crank them down one more time and back off until they sound good, even
> if this isn't the 80 lb spec. I actually put the tire on with a couple of
> lug nuts so I can turn the hub and load the bearing at the same time. I am
> certain that I am mashing them in to the 80 lb click on my wrench.
>
> On second thought, do we care that the spindles and or hubs are new or old?
> The inside of the bearing race is not supposed to spin on the spindle, the
> bearings roll around on the races, and these are new everytime. All we are
> torquing is the preload on the bearings themselves, the condition of the
> hubs and spindles is not all that critical, is it? Of course the condition
> is important, but not from the perspective of the spindle nut pre load on
> the bearings.

 

And the lock washer will take that without shearing?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> That's my problem then. I used my torque wrench with new bearings on old
> spindles. I can crank them down and back them off until I get them seated,
> then crank them down one more time and back off until they sound good, even
> if this isn't the 80 lb spec. I actually put the tire on with a couple of
> lug nuts so I can turn the hub and load the bearing at the same time. I am
> certain that I am mashing them in to the 80 lb click on my wrench.
>
> On second thought, do we care that the spindles and or hubs are new or old?
> The inside of the bearing race is not supposed to spin on the spindle, the
> bearings roll around on the races, and these are new everytime. All we are
> torquing is the preload on the bearings themselves, the condition of the
> hubs and spindles is not all that critical, is it? Of course the condition
> is important, but not from the perspective of the spindle nut pre load on
> the bearings.