L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Saving yourself at least, a skinned knuckle.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Joe Carroll wrote:
>
> I'm taking your advice but dropping it off at Burnsville Off-road. I
> trust those guys to tell me if in fact it's really bad ...and charging
> me less than $350.00 if is.
>
> Joe Carroll

Joe Carroll

Thanks to all for your help

Joe Carroll

Thanks to all for your help

Joe Carroll

Thanks to all for your help

dave AKA vwdoc1

Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
quickly.
I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
from coming out too far.
I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
Sounds good doesn't it!
I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
method out! <g>

I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
to play around.

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
Living in the rust belt

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:rVh7d.233$UP1.172@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> As for taking care of the bearings, listen to what Mike R. said about
> "bugger to take off" If you live in the rust belt, you may find that
> after you subract the $130 or so for a new assembly, the labor may not be
> quite so tough to swallow. Several of us have spent 4 to 8 hours trying to
> get a single hub off.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Joe Carroll wrote:
>> Thanks to all,
>> One of those new Dueler AT Revo's is seperating on the right front and
>> Firestone is replacing it. The firestone fellow said I needed a new
>> right front wheel bearing also. When he said $350.00 I said I'd take
>> care of that myself
>> On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 10:24:40 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi Joe,
>>> Rather than repacking the bearings once a year or every twelve
>>>thousand miles like a Real Jeep Floating bearings, Daimler chose to
>>>continue selling you puny front wheel drive passenger car hubs that are
>>>sealed and just run dry, seize, and leave you in the middle of an
>>>intersection, or the wheel just falls off at seventy miles and hour. You
>>>may check to see if it is about to explode by jacking the wheel up from
>>>time to time, and kicking the wheel to release the brake caliber and
>>>feel for any play, if there is, replace them:
>>>http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ God Bless
>>>America, ßill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>Joe Carroll wrote:
>>>
>>>>How difficult is it to replace or repack front wheel bearings on a
>>>>2000 wrangler sport, 6 cyl?

dave AKA vwdoc1

Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
quickly.
I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
from coming out too far.
I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
Sounds good doesn't it!
I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
method out! <g>

I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
to play around.

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
Living in the rust belt

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:rVh7d.233$UP1.172@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> As for taking care of the bearings, listen to what Mike R. said about
> "bugger to take off" If you live in the rust belt, you may find that
> after you subract the $130 or so for a new assembly, the labor may not be
> quite so tough to swallow. Several of us have spent 4 to 8 hours trying to
> get a single hub off.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Joe Carroll wrote:
>> Thanks to all,
>> One of those new Dueler AT Revo's is seperating on the right front and
>> Firestone is replacing it. The firestone fellow said I needed a new
>> right front wheel bearing also. When he said $350.00 I said I'd take
>> care of that myself
>> On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 10:24:40 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi Joe,
>>> Rather than repacking the bearings once a year or every twelve
>>>thousand miles like a Real Jeep Floating bearings, Daimler chose to
>>>continue selling you puny front wheel drive passenger car hubs that are
>>>sealed and just run dry, seize, and leave you in the middle of an
>>>intersection, or the wheel just falls off at seventy miles and hour. You
>>>may check to see if it is about to explode by jacking the wheel up from
>>>time to time, and kicking the wheel to release the brake caliber and
>>>feel for any play, if there is, replace them:
>>>http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ God Bless
>>>America, ßill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>Joe Carroll wrote:
>>>
>>>>How difficult is it to replace or repack front wheel bearings on a
>>>>2000 wrangler sport, 6 cyl?

dave AKA vwdoc1

Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
quickly.
I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
from coming out too far.
I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
Sounds good doesn't it!
I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
method out! <g>

I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
to play around.

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
Living in the rust belt

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:rVh7d.233$UP1.172@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> As for taking care of the bearings, listen to what Mike R. said about
> "bugger to take off" If you live in the rust belt, you may find that
> after you subract the $130 or so for a new assembly, the labor may not be
> quite so tough to swallow. Several of us have spent 4 to 8 hours trying to
> get a single hub off.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Joe Carroll wrote:
>> Thanks to all,
>> One of those new Dueler AT Revo's is seperating on the right front and
>> Firestone is replacing it. The firestone fellow said I needed a new
>> right front wheel bearing also. When he said $350.00 I said I'd take
>> care of that myself
>> On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 10:24:40 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi Joe,
>>> Rather than repacking the bearings once a year or every twelve
>>>thousand miles like a Real Jeep Floating bearings, Daimler chose to
>>>continue selling you puny front wheel drive passenger car hubs that are
>>>sealed and just run dry, seize, and leave you in the middle of an
>>>intersection, or the wheel just falls off at seventy miles and hour. You
>>>may check to see if it is about to explode by jacking the wheel up from
>>>time to time, and kicking the wheel to release the brake caliber and
>>>feel for any play, if there is, replace them:
>>>http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ God Bless
>>>America, ßill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>Joe Carroll wrote:
>>>
>>>>How difficult is it to replace or repack front wheel bearings on a
>>>>2000 wrangler sport, 6 cyl?

dave AKA vwdoc1

dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:kgm7d.11068$6_3.1208@newssvr15.news.prodigy.c om...
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.

FOUND IT!!

Not hit, but PRY! ;-)

Here is Derrick's info:

1) remove axle nut.
2) jack the front tires off the ground...place jack stands under the front
axle.
3) remove the two brake caliper bolts.
4) remove the three unitized bearing bolts.
5) place a long pry bar (3 or 4 feet long) in between the rim (still
attached to the unitized bearing) and the tie rod bracket on the steering
knuckle. Give 2 or 3 hard pulls and the bearing will pop out of the
steering knuckle.
6) use an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts, and then remove the rim and
tire.
7) remove the brake caliper.
8) remove the unitized bearing.
The first time my unitized bearings were removed, it took Rudy 5 minutes
to do both sides. After doing this 3 or 4 times, it now only takes me about
10 minutes to do both sides. In my opinion, it is by far the quickest way
to get the unitized bearings off the axle.
Derek

I would modify, or at least I would try this on mine. NOT to fully remove
axle nut (I would loosen and snug back down) so as to not possibly damage
hub assembly, and to keep the unitized bearing bolts loosely installed, but
do all the rest of those steps.
Really makes it sound fast and easy!!! I don't know if I can R&I both sides
in 10 minutes though! lol

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

dave AKA vwdoc1

dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:kgm7d.11068$6_3.1208@newssvr15.news.prodigy.c om...
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.

FOUND IT!!

Not hit, but PRY! ;-)

Here is Derrick's info:

1) remove axle nut.
2) jack the front tires off the ground...place jack stands under the front
axle.
3) remove the two brake caliper bolts.
4) remove the three unitized bearing bolts.
5) place a long pry bar (3 or 4 feet long) in between the rim (still
attached to the unitized bearing) and the tie rod bracket on the steering
knuckle. Give 2 or 3 hard pulls and the bearing will pop out of the
steering knuckle.
6) use an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts, and then remove the rim and
tire.
7) remove the brake caliper.
8) remove the unitized bearing.
The first time my unitized bearings were removed, it took Rudy 5 minutes
to do both sides. After doing this 3 or 4 times, it now only takes me about
10 minutes to do both sides. In my opinion, it is by far the quickest way
to get the unitized bearings off the axle.
Derek

I would modify, or at least I would try this on mine. NOT to fully remove
axle nut (I would loosen and snug back down) so as to not possibly damage
hub assembly, and to keep the unitized bearing bolts loosely installed, but
do all the rest of those steps.
Really makes it sound fast and easy!!! I don't know if I can R&I both sides
in 10 minutes though! lol

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

dave AKA vwdoc1

dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:kgm7d.11068$6_3.1208@newssvr15.news.prodigy.c om...
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.

FOUND IT!!

Not hit, but PRY! ;-)

Here is Derrick's info:

1) remove axle nut.
2) jack the front tires off the ground...place jack stands under the front
axle.
3) remove the two brake caliper bolts.
4) remove the three unitized bearing bolts.
5) place a long pry bar (3 or 4 feet long) in between the rim (still
attached to the unitized bearing) and the tie rod bracket on the steering
knuckle. Give 2 or 3 hard pulls and the bearing will pop out of the
steering knuckle.
6) use an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts, and then remove the rim and
tire.
7) remove the brake caliper.
8) remove the unitized bearing.
The first time my unitized bearings were removed, it took Rudy 5 minutes
to do both sides. After doing this 3 or 4 times, it now only takes me about
10 minutes to do both sides. In my opinion, it is by far the quickest way
to get the unitized bearings off the axle.
Derek

I would modify, or at least I would try this on mine. NOT to fully remove
axle nut (I would loosen and snug back down) so as to not possibly damage
hub assembly, and to keep the unitized bearing bolts loosely installed, but
do all the rest of those steps.
Really makes it sound fast and easy!!! I don't know if I can R&I both sides
in 10 minutes though! lol

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1