What are these things?
08-06-2003, 11:38 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
It is spring loaded closed.
It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
unwinds and opens the choke up.
I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
there.
It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
by turning the cover....
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand and
> crank her, she starts right up).
> At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the ground)
> would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should be
> closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that closes
> it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > for cleaning and grease.
> >
> > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb side
> > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> >
> > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you should
> > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or only
> > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see if
> > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > >
> > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> that
> > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > No.
> > > >
> > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty power
> > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my choke
> > > problem
> > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this make
> sense?
> > > > >
> > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail right?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
unwinds and opens the choke up.
I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
there.
It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
by turning the cover....
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand and
> crank her, she starts right up).
> At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the ground)
> would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should be
> closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that closes
> it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > for cleaning and grease.
> >
> > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb side
> > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> >
> > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you should
> > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or only
> > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see if
> > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > >
> > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> that
> > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > No.
> > > >
> > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty power
> > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my choke
> > > problem
> > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this make
> sense?
> > > > >
> > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail right?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
08-06-2003, 11:47 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things? WTF? NASTY LINK WARNING!
reader: outlook express
Browser: IE6
IE6 automagically changed them for me...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F311FC5.27B50089@sympatico.ca...
> The fixed links worked.
>
> Strange eh.
>
> What are you using for a reader and browser?
>
> I am running Netscape 4.79.
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > Sorry mike, it worked fine for me. As pointed out in this thread, it's
the
> > "\"s... should be "/".
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F306EDE.6D598339@sympatico.ca...
> > > Joe, don't know what gives, but when I click on your links it wipes
out
> > > the newsgroup to all blank in my Netscape newsgroup screen and doesn't
> > > tag the Netscape web browser to go to the photo.
> > >
> > > I have to close it down and start Netscape again to be stable????
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > >
> > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
Browser: IE6
IE6 automagically changed them for me...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F311FC5.27B50089@sympatico.ca...
> The fixed links worked.
>
> Strange eh.
>
> What are you using for a reader and browser?
>
> I am running Netscape 4.79.
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > Sorry mike, it worked fine for me. As pointed out in this thread, it's
the
> > "\"s... should be "/".
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F306EDE.6D598339@sympatico.ca...
> > > Joe, don't know what gives, but when I click on your links it wipes
out
> > > the newsgroup to all blank in my Netscape newsgroup screen and doesn't
> > > tag the Netscape web browser to go to the photo.
> > >
> > > I have to close it down and start Netscape again to be stable????
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > >
> > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
08-06-2003, 11:55 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
"I would be thinking the spring has broken."
That is what I will check since it seems to be stuck open. Thanks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> It is spring loaded closed.
>
> It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> unwinds and opens the choke up.
>
> I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
> there.
>
> It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
>
> If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
> by turning the cover....
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand
and
> > crank her, she starts right up).
> > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
ground)
> > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should
be
> > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that
closes
> > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > > for cleaning and grease.
> > >
> > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb
side
> > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > >
> > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
should
> > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
only
> > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see
if
> > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > >
> > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> > that
> > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > No.
> > > > >
> > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
power
> > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
bimetal
> > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my
choke
> > > > problem
> > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
make
> > sense?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
That is what I will check since it seems to be stuck open. Thanks.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> It is spring loaded closed.
>
> It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> unwinds and opens the choke up.
>
> I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
> there.
>
> It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
>
> If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
> by turning the cover....
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand
and
> > crank her, she starts right up).
> > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
ground)
> > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should
be
> > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that
closes
> > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > > for cleaning and grease.
> > >
> > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb
side
> > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > >
> > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
should
> > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
only
> > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see
if
> > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > >
> > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> > that
> > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > No.
> > > > >
> > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
power
> > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
bimetal
> > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my
choke
> > > > problem
> > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
make
> > sense?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
08-06-2003, 12:04 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
Thanks!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> It is spring loaded closed.
>
> It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> unwinds and opens the choke up.
>
> I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
> there.
>
> It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
>
> If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
> by turning the cover....
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand
and
> > crank her, she starts right up).
> > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
ground)
> > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should
be
> > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that
closes
> > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > > for cleaning and grease.
> > >
> > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb
side
> > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > >
> > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
should
> > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
only
> > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see
if
> > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > >
> > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> > that
> > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > No.
> > > > >
> > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
power
> > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
bimetal
> > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my
choke
> > > > problem
> > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
make
> > sense?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
Thanks!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> It is spring loaded closed.
>
> It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> unwinds and opens the choke up.
>
> I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
> there.
>
> It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
>
> If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
> by turning the cover....
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand
and
> > crank her, she starts right up).
> > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
ground)
> > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should
be
> > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that
closes
> > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > > for cleaning and grease.
> > >
> > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb
side
> > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > >
> > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
should
> > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
only
> > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see
if
> > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > >
> > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> > that
> > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > No.
> > > > >
> > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
power
> > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
bimetal
> > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my
choke
> > > > problem
> > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
make
> > sense?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
08-06-2003, 12:22 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
It is not in that drawing.
If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
of this cap.
I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
actually is...
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> Thanks!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > It is spring loaded closed.
> >
> > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> >
> > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
> > there.
> >
> > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> >
> > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
> > by turning the cover....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand
> and
> > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> ground)
> > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should
> be
> > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that
> closes
> > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > >
> > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb
> side
> > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > >
> > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> should
> > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> only
> > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see
> if
> > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > >
> > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> > > that
> > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > No.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> power
> > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> bimetal
> > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my
> choke
> > > > > problem
> > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> make
> > > sense?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> right?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
of this cap.
I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
actually is...
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> Thanks!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > It is spring loaded closed.
> >
> > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> >
> > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside
> > there.
> >
> > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> >
> > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest
> > by turning the cover....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand
> and
> > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> ground)
> > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should
> be
> > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that
> closes
> > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the pin
> > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > >
> > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to the
> > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the carb
> side
> > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > >
> > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> should
> > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> only
> > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and see
> if
> > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > >
> > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture
> > > that
> > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > No.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> power
> > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> bimetal
> > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb
> > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing my
> choke
> > > > > problem
> > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> make
> > > sense?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> right?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
08-06-2003, 02:59 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things? WTF? NASTY LINK WARNING!
Approximately 8/6/03 08:33, Mike Romain uttered for posterity:
> The fixed links worked.
>
> Strange eh.
>
> What are you using for a reader and browser?
>
> I am running Netscape 4.79.
Netscape 7.x and Mozilla 1.3, 1.4 have a GDI resource leak, most
noticeable on NS 7.1 with large jpegs. Workaround is to limit
memory cache to 1024 and avoid high quality ----.
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
>>
>> Sorry mike, it worked fine for me. As pointed out in this thread, it's the
>> "\"s... should be "/".
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:3F306EDE.6D598339@sympatico.ca...
>> > Joe, don't know what gives, but when I click on your links it wipes out
>> > the newsgroup to all blank in my Netscape newsgroup screen and doesn't
>> > tag the Netscape web browser to go to the photo.
>> >
>> > I have to close it down and start Netscape again to be stable????
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> > Joe wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Can you tell me what these are?
>> > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
>> > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
>> > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
>> > >
>> > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks!
> The fixed links worked.
>
> Strange eh.
>
> What are you using for a reader and browser?
>
> I am running Netscape 4.79.
Netscape 7.x and Mozilla 1.3, 1.4 have a GDI resource leak, most
noticeable on NS 7.1 with large jpegs. Workaround is to limit
memory cache to 1024 and avoid high quality ----.
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
>>
>> Sorry mike, it worked fine for me. As pointed out in this thread, it's the
>> "\"s... should be "/".
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:3F306EDE.6D598339@sympatico.ca...
>> > Joe, don't know what gives, but when I click on your links it wipes out
>> > the newsgroup to all blank in my Netscape newsgroup screen and doesn't
>> > tag the Netscape web browser to go to the photo.
>> >
>> > I have to close it down and start Netscape again to be stable????
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> > Joe wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Can you tell me what these are?
>> > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
>> > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
>> > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
>> > >
>> > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks!
08-06-2003, 04:47 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
Where'd you get your manual choke kit?
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> It is not in that drawing.
>
> If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> of this cap.
>
> I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
>
> Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> actually is...
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > Thanks!
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > >
> > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > >
> > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
inside
> > > there.
> > >
> > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > >
> > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
rest
> > > by turning the cover....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
hand
> > and
> > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > ground)
> > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
should
> > be
> > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
that
> > closes
> > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
pin
> > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
the
> > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
carb
> > side
> > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > should
> > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > only
> > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
see
> > if
> > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > >
> > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
picture
> > > > that
> > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > power
> > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
my
> > choke
> > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > make
> > > > sense?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
>
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> It is not in that drawing.
>
> If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> of this cap.
>
> I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
>
> Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> actually is...
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > Thanks!
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > >
> > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > >
> > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
inside
> > > there.
> > >
> > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > >
> > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
rest
> > > by turning the cover....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
hand
> > and
> > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > ground)
> > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
should
> > be
> > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
that
> > closes
> > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
pin
> > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
the
> > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
carb
> > side
> > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > should
> > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > only
> > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
see
> > if
> > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > >
> > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
picture
> > > > that
> > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > power
> > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
my
> > choke
> > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > make
> > > > sense?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
>
08-06-2003, 07:22 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
Our local auto parts store, Canadian Tire carries them for about $25.00.
They come with a replacement black cap with a lever inside instead of
the coil spring and are pretty easy to put on.
It also gives me a 'hand throttle' for keeping the revs up when I am
winching. I can give it gas until I get to 1500 or 1800 rpm, pull out
the choke, let off the gas and push the choke back in. The gas stays on
the fast idle cam at whatever revs I had it until I blip the throttle,
then it drops back to normal.
Same for driving away in cold weather, I can just leave it in 1200 rpm
or so with some choke until the temp gauge starts to move. Sometimes
that is 10 miles later.
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> Where'd you get your manual choke kit?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> > It is not in that drawing.
> >
> > If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> > round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> > of this cap.
> >
> > I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
> >
> > Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> > according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> > actually is...
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > > >
> > > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > > >
> > > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
> inside
> > > > there.
> > > >
> > > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > > >
> > > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
> rest
> > > > by turning the cover....
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
> hand
> > > and
> > > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > > ground)
> > > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
> should
> > > be
> > > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
> that
> > > closes
> > > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
> pin
> > > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
> the
> > > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
> carb
> > > side
> > > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > > should
> > > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > > only
> > > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
> see
> > > if
> > > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
> picture
> > > > > that
> > > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > > power
> > > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > > bimetal
> > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
> my
> > > choke
> > > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > > make
> > > > > sense?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > > right?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> >
They come with a replacement black cap with a lever inside instead of
the coil spring and are pretty easy to put on.
It also gives me a 'hand throttle' for keeping the revs up when I am
winching. I can give it gas until I get to 1500 or 1800 rpm, pull out
the choke, let off the gas and push the choke back in. The gas stays on
the fast idle cam at whatever revs I had it until I blip the throttle,
then it drops back to normal.
Same for driving away in cold weather, I can just leave it in 1200 rpm
or so with some choke until the temp gauge starts to move. Sometimes
that is 10 miles later.
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> Where'd you get your manual choke kit?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> > It is not in that drawing.
> >
> > If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> > round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> > of this cap.
> >
> > I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
> >
> > Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> > according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> > actually is...
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > > >
> > > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > > >
> > > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
> inside
> > > > there.
> > > >
> > > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > > >
> > > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
> rest
> > > > by turning the cover....
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
> hand
> > > and
> > > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > > ground)
> > > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
> should
> > > be
> > > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
> that
> > > closes
> > > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
> pin
> > > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
> the
> > > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
> carb
> > > side
> > > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > > should
> > > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > > only
> > > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
> see
> > > if
> > > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
> picture
> > > > > that
> > > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > > power
> > > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > > bimetal
> > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
> my
> > > choke
> > > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > > make
> > > > > sense?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > > right?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> >
08-07-2003, 11:59 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
This must be it?
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215567JGiprb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> It is not in that drawing.
>
> If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> of this cap.
>
> I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
>
> Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> actually is...
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > Thanks!
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > >
> > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > >
> > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
inside
> > > there.
> > >
> > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > >
> > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
rest
> > > by turning the cover....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
hand
> > and
> > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > ground)
> > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
should
> > be
> > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
that
> > closes
> > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
pin
> > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
the
> > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
carb
> > side
> > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > should
> > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > only
> > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
see
> > if
> > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > >
> > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
picture
> > > > that
> > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > power
> > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
my
> > choke
> > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > make
> > > > sense?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215567JGiprb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> It is not in that drawing.
>
> If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> of this cap.
>
> I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
>
> Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> actually is...
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > Thanks!
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > >
> > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > >
> > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
inside
> > > there.
> > >
> > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > >
> > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
rest
> > > by turning the cover....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
hand
> > and
> > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > ground)
> > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
should
> > be
> > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
that
> > closes
> > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
pin
> > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
the
> > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
carb
> > side
> > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > should
> > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > only
> > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
see
> > if
> > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > >
> > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
picture
> > > > that
> > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > power
> > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
my
> > choke
> > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > make
> > > > sense?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
08-07-2003, 12:28 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are these things?
You got it, that is the sucker!
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> This must be it?
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215567JGiprb
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> > It is not in that drawing.
> >
> > If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> > round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> > of this cap.
> >
> > I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
> >
> > Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> > according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> > actually is...
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > > >
> > > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > > >
> > > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
> inside
> > > > there.
> > > >
> > > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > > >
> > > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
> rest
> > > > by turning the cover....
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
> hand
> > > and
> > > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > > ground)
> > > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
> should
> > > be
> > > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
> that
> > > closes
> > > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
> pin
> > > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
> the
> > > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
> carb
> > > side
> > > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > > should
> > > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > > only
> > > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
> see
> > > if
> > > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
> picture
> > > > > that
> > > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > > power
> > > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > > bimetal
> > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
> my
> > > choke
> > > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > > make
> > > > > sense?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > > right?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
Mike
Joe wrote:
>
> This must be it?
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215567JGiprb
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> > It is not in that drawing.
> >
> > If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> > round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part
> > of this cap.
> >
> > I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
> >
> > Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens
> > according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> > actually is...
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Joe wrote:
> > >
> > > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > > >
> > > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring
> > > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > > >
> > > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or
> > > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
> inside
> > > > there.
> > > >
> > > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really'
> > > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > > >
> > > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
> rest
> > > > by turning the cover....
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by
> hand
> > > and
> > > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the
> > > ground)
> > > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it
> should
> > > be
> > > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
> that
> > > closes
> > > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the
> pin
> > > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to
> the
> > > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
> carb
> > > side
> > > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you
> > > should
> > > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or
> > > only
> > > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and
> see
> > > if
> > > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
> picture
> > > > > that
> > > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty
> > > power
> > > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the
> > > bimetal
> > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the
> carb
> > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing
> my
> > > choke
> > > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this
> > > make
> > > > > sense?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail
> > > right?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
