Joe

THANKS! NOW I'll go get greasy! :-)

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F327E13.7149CA89@sympatico.ca...
> You got it, that is the sucker!
>
> Mike
>
> Joe wrote:
> >
> > This must be it?
> > http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215567JGiprb
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca...
> > > It is not in that drawing.
> > >
> > > If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black
> > > round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and
part
> > > of this cap.
> > >
> > > I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.
> > >
> > > Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It
opens
> > > according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine
> > > actually is...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Using this:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb
> > > > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)
> > > > Thanks!
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > It is spring loaded closed.
> > > > >
> > > > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the
spring
> > > > > unwinds and opens the choke up.
> > > > >
> > > > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws
or
> > > > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is
> > inside
> > > > > there.
> > > > >
> > > > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb.
'Really'
> > > > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip
> > > > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.
> > > > >
> > > > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at
> > rest
> > > > > by turning the cover....
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it
by
> > hand
> > > > and
> > > > > > crank her, she starts right up).
> > > > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on
the
> > > > ground)
> > > > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that
it
> > should
> > > > be
> > > > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something
> > that
> > > > closes
> > > > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove
the
> > pin
> > > > > > > for cleaning and grease.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate
to
> > the
> > > > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the
> > carb
> > > > side
> > > > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle,
you
> > > > should
> > > > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't
move or
> > > > only
> > > > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element
and
> > see
> > > > if
> > > > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal
> > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at
the
> > carb
> > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)"
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a
> > picture
> > > > > > that
> > > > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > > No.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open.
Dirty
> > > > power
> > > > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from
the
> > > > bimetal
> > > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at
the
> > carb
> > > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6
> > > > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are
causing
> > my
> > > > choke
> > > > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does
this
> > > > make
> > > > > > sense?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.***.net ...
> > > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are?
> > > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is
different.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake
rail
> > > > right?
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
> > > > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size?
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >