"Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...

....

> So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was in the
> master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the slave
> (though having it out did nothing) and off I went.

The way I bleed a hydraulic system, you have to have two
people (or use a vacuum pump!). You *don't* take the
screw out all the way... it's actually a valve nipple, like
a brake cylinder. Open the bleeder screw, have someone
push the pedal all the way down, close the bleeder screw,
have the pedal come up... lather, rinse, repeat, until there's
fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. The idea is to keep
air from sucking back into the cylinder/line when the pedal
comes up... you pump the fluid in and the air out, using the
bleeder screw as a valve.

Until you bleed it properly, you'll continue to have problems
with it.
__
Steve
..

 

Check out the PDF I linked to above. You don't bleed this slave that way.
There is NO bleeder valve. None, zip, zilch, nada. The only way to bleed
it is to pump the bubbles out of the master by pushing on the slave. Wierd,
I know. But now my clutch works great. The pedal is stronger than the day
I bought it. Of course it's still making that funny noise. Kind of a
"chunk". Don't know -- mechanic friend of mine seems to think the fork is a
little off or something. He rattled of some things and said it really just
slipped a little out of alignment and can easily be fixed (as long as you
don't have to pull the tranny)...

Eric
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:fl%le.117$Dq7.85@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com.. .
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
>
> ...
>
>> So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was in the
>> master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the slave
>> (though having it out did nothing) and off I went.
>
> The way I bleed a hydraulic system, you have to have two
> people (or use a vacuum pump!). You *don't* take the
> screw out all the way... it's actually a valve nipple, like
> a brake cylinder. Open the bleeder screw, have someone
> push the pedal all the way down, close the bleeder screw,
> have the pedal come up... lather, rinse, repeat, until there's
> fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. The idea is to keep
> air from sucking back into the cylinder/line when the pedal
> comes up... you pump the fluid in and the air out, using the
> bleeder screw as a valve.
>
> Until you bleed it properly, you'll continue to have problems
> with it.
> __
> Steve
> .
>
>

 

Check out the PDF I linked to above. You don't bleed this slave that way.
There is NO bleeder valve. None, zip, zilch, nada. The only way to bleed
it is to pump the bubbles out of the master by pushing on the slave. Wierd,
I know. But now my clutch works great. The pedal is stronger than the day
I bought it. Of course it's still making that funny noise. Kind of a
"chunk". Don't know -- mechanic friend of mine seems to think the fork is a
little off or something. He rattled of some things and said it really just
slipped a little out of alignment and can easily be fixed (as long as you
don't have to pull the tranny)...

Eric
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:fl%le.117$Dq7.85@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com.. .
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
>
> ...
>
>> So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was in the
>> master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the slave
>> (though having it out did nothing) and off I went.
>
> The way I bleed a hydraulic system, you have to have two
> people (or use a vacuum pump!). You *don't* take the
> screw out all the way... it's actually a valve nipple, like
> a brake cylinder. Open the bleeder screw, have someone
> push the pedal all the way down, close the bleeder screw,
> have the pedal come up... lather, rinse, repeat, until there's
> fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. The idea is to keep
> air from sucking back into the cylinder/line when the pedal
> comes up... you pump the fluid in and the air out, using the
> bleeder screw as a valve.
>
> Until you bleed it properly, you'll continue to have problems
> with it.
> __
> Steve
> .
>
>

 

Check out the PDF I linked to above. You don't bleed this slave that way.
There is NO bleeder valve. None, zip, zilch, nada. The only way to bleed
it is to pump the bubbles out of the master by pushing on the slave. Wierd,
I know. But now my clutch works great. The pedal is stronger than the day
I bought it. Of course it's still making that funny noise. Kind of a
"chunk". Don't know -- mechanic friend of mine seems to think the fork is a
little off or something. He rattled of some things and said it really just
slipped a little out of alignment and can easily be fixed (as long as you
don't have to pull the tranny)...

Eric
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:fl%le.117$Dq7.85@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com.. .
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
>
> ...
>
>> So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was in the
>> master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the slave
>> (though having it out did nothing) and off I went.
>
> The way I bleed a hydraulic system, you have to have two
> people (or use a vacuum pump!). You *don't* take the
> screw out all the way... it's actually a valve nipple, like
> a brake cylinder. Open the bleeder screw, have someone
> push the pedal all the way down, close the bleeder screw,
> have the pedal come up... lather, rinse, repeat, until there's
> fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. The idea is to keep
> air from sucking back into the cylinder/line when the pedal
> comes up... you pump the fluid in and the air out, using the
> bleeder screw as a valve.
>
> Until you bleed it properly, you'll continue to have problems
> with it.
> __
> Steve
> .
>
>

 

Check out the PDF I linked to above. You don't bleed this slave that way.
There is NO bleeder valve. None, zip, zilch, nada. The only way to bleed
it is to pump the bubbles out of the master by pushing on the slave. Wierd,
I know. But now my clutch works great. The pedal is stronger than the day
I bought it. Of course it's still making that funny noise. Kind of a
"chunk". Don't know -- mechanic friend of mine seems to think the fork is a
little off or something. He rattled of some things and said it really just
slipped a little out of alignment and can easily be fixed (as long as you
don't have to pull the tranny)...

Eric
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:fl%le.117$Dq7.85@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com.. .
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
>
> ...
>
>> So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was in the
>> master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the slave
>> (though having it out did nothing) and off I went.
>
> The way I bleed a hydraulic system, you have to have two
> people (or use a vacuum pump!). You *don't* take the
> screw out all the way... it's actually a valve nipple, like
> a brake cylinder. Open the bleeder screw, have someone
> push the pedal all the way down, close the bleeder screw,
> have the pedal come up... lather, rinse, repeat, until there's
> fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. The idea is to keep
> air from sucking back into the cylinder/line when the pedal
> comes up... you pump the fluid in and the air out, using the
> bleeder screw as a valve.
>
> Until you bleed it properly, you'll continue to have problems
> with it.
> __
> Steve
> .
>
>

 

Not being a true believer in the pump-it-til-it-works bleeding scheme,
I used a different method when I changed my (external ) slave a whie
back. First, the replacement did NOT have a hole drilled thru in the
"bleed" port so that way was out. OK, next step. Unhooked the
plactic straps so that the slave plunger would extend, let the slave
hang down and filled the mc. Worked the slave plunger in and out
SLOWLY while the wife watched the mc reservoir - watching for bubbles
and keeping it full. Took about 5-6 full strokes of the slave to get
all the bubbles out. Hooked up the plactic straps and installed it.
No problems. If it bleeds down while just setting, suspect the
master, not the slave.

On Sat, 28 May 2005 04:22:55 UTC "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com>
wrote:

> Took the slave out and followed the directions. Although getting the shaft
> lined back up with the fork on the clutch took some finesse, it's back in
> and smoother. If I'd only done that the first time...
>
> The mechanical sound is there, but different. Guess the first sound was
> actually two sounds together. Now the click, clunk, grind, whatever, seems
> to be coming from inside the tranny itself. Seems to be related to the
> clutch or release fork. It's not the slave making the noise (unless the
> shaft is binding against something, but I can't imagine what).
>
> Is my clutch about to go? Thoughts? Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
> > Ok, got the clutch slave in and installed it. Something just wasn't
> > right -- I couldn't get the fluid to flow from the master cyl through the
> > line and come out of the bleeder on the slave. Kept pushing the clutch in
> > and out until I had worked my way through 1.5 master cyl's worth of fluid.
> > STILL, nothing coming out of the slave. However, now the slave was
> > engaging the clutch. I could have it in gear, push in the clutch, and
> > roll. Hmmm...
> >
> > Worked it some more, and the clutch felt like new. Better than it ever
> > has in the past two years. So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was
> > in the master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the
> > slave (though having it out did nothing) and off I went. I stopped every
> > few miles, and nothing would change. Clutch was good, and fluid was good.
> > Got onto the highway and 5 minutes later I didn't have a clutch. SCARY!
> > I pumped it a LOT and it came back.
> >
> > So, in town, I had a perfectly normal clutch (stop and go driving). When
> > it wasn't used, it wouldn't work. So I got it to the point of almost not
> > working (clutch pedal would go almost to the floor before working) and
> > pulled over to look in the master cyl. Nothing wrong. No bubbles, no
> > change in fluid level, nothing. Pumped the clutch once or twice, and it
> > was back to normal. Get home, in the garage, and notice a mechanical feel
> > to the pedal. Shut off the TJ, and sure enough, I can hear the slave
> > working. It... grinds.. when the pedal is almost to the floor.
> >
> > What the heck?? Did I get a bad part?!? I thought it was odd it wouldn't
> > bleed... HELP!!!
> >
> > Eric
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

Not being a true believer in the pump-it-til-it-works bleeding scheme,
I used a different method when I changed my (external ) slave a whie
back. First, the replacement did NOT have a hole drilled thru in the
"bleed" port so that way was out. OK, next step. Unhooked the
plactic straps so that the slave plunger would extend, let the slave
hang down and filled the mc. Worked the slave plunger in and out
SLOWLY while the wife watched the mc reservoir - watching for bubbles
and keeping it full. Took about 5-6 full strokes of the slave to get
all the bubbles out. Hooked up the plactic straps and installed it.
No problems. If it bleeds down while just setting, suspect the
master, not the slave.

On Sat, 28 May 2005 04:22:55 UTC "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com>
wrote:

> Took the slave out and followed the directions. Although getting the shaft
> lined back up with the fork on the clutch took some finesse, it's back in
> and smoother. If I'd only done that the first time...
>
> The mechanical sound is there, but different. Guess the first sound was
> actually two sounds together. Now the click, clunk, grind, whatever, seems
> to be coming from inside the tranny itself. Seems to be related to the
> clutch or release fork. It's not the slave making the noise (unless the
> shaft is binding against something, but I can't imagine what).
>
> Is my clutch about to go? Thoughts? Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
> > Ok, got the clutch slave in and installed it. Something just wasn't
> > right -- I couldn't get the fluid to flow from the master cyl through the
> > line and come out of the bleeder on the slave. Kept pushing the clutch in
> > and out until I had worked my way through 1.5 master cyl's worth of fluid.
> > STILL, nothing coming out of the slave. However, now the slave was
> > engaging the clutch. I could have it in gear, push in the clutch, and
> > roll. Hmmm...
> >
> > Worked it some more, and the clutch felt like new. Better than it ever
> > has in the past two years. So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was
> > in the master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the
> > slave (though having it out did nothing) and off I went. I stopped every
> > few miles, and nothing would change. Clutch was good, and fluid was good.
> > Got onto the highway and 5 minutes later I didn't have a clutch. SCARY!
> > I pumped it a LOT and it came back.
> >
> > So, in town, I had a perfectly normal clutch (stop and go driving). When
> > it wasn't used, it wouldn't work. So I got it to the point of almost not
> > working (clutch pedal would go almost to the floor before working) and
> > pulled over to look in the master cyl. Nothing wrong. No bubbles, no
> > change in fluid level, nothing. Pumped the clutch once or twice, and it
> > was back to normal. Get home, in the garage, and notice a mechanical feel
> > to the pedal. Shut off the TJ, and sure enough, I can hear the slave
> > working. It... grinds.. when the pedal is almost to the floor.
> >
> > What the heck?? Did I get a bad part?!? I thought it was odd it wouldn't
> > bleed... HELP!!!
> >
> > Eric
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

Not being a true believer in the pump-it-til-it-works bleeding scheme,
I used a different method when I changed my (external ) slave a whie
back. First, the replacement did NOT have a hole drilled thru in the
"bleed" port so that way was out. OK, next step. Unhooked the
plactic straps so that the slave plunger would extend, let the slave
hang down and filled the mc. Worked the slave plunger in and out
SLOWLY while the wife watched the mc reservoir - watching for bubbles
and keeping it full. Took about 5-6 full strokes of the slave to get
all the bubbles out. Hooked up the plactic straps and installed it.
No problems. If it bleeds down while just setting, suspect the
master, not the slave.

On Sat, 28 May 2005 04:22:55 UTC "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com>
wrote:

> Took the slave out and followed the directions. Although getting the shaft
> lined back up with the fork on the clutch took some finesse, it's back in
> and smoother. If I'd only done that the first time...
>
> The mechanical sound is there, but different. Guess the first sound was
> actually two sounds together. Now the click, clunk, grind, whatever, seems
> to be coming from inside the tranny itself. Seems to be related to the
> clutch or release fork. It's not the slave making the noise (unless the
> shaft is binding against something, but I can't imagine what).
>
> Is my clutch about to go? Thoughts? Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
> > Ok, got the clutch slave in and installed it. Something just wasn't
> > right -- I couldn't get the fluid to flow from the master cyl through the
> > line and come out of the bleeder on the slave. Kept pushing the clutch in
> > and out until I had worked my way through 1.5 master cyl's worth of fluid.
> > STILL, nothing coming out of the slave. However, now the slave was
> > engaging the clutch. I could have it in gear, push in the clutch, and
> > roll. Hmmm...
> >
> > Worked it some more, and the clutch felt like new. Better than it ever
> > has in the past two years. So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was
> > in the master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the
> > slave (though having it out did nothing) and off I went. I stopped every
> > few miles, and nothing would change. Clutch was good, and fluid was good.
> > Got onto the highway and 5 minutes later I didn't have a clutch. SCARY!
> > I pumped it a LOT and it came back.
> >
> > So, in town, I had a perfectly normal clutch (stop and go driving). When
> > it wasn't used, it wouldn't work. So I got it to the point of almost not
> > working (clutch pedal would go almost to the floor before working) and
> > pulled over to look in the master cyl. Nothing wrong. No bubbles, no
> > change in fluid level, nothing. Pumped the clutch once or twice, and it
> > was back to normal. Get home, in the garage, and notice a mechanical feel
> > to the pedal. Shut off the TJ, and sure enough, I can hear the slave
> > working. It... grinds.. when the pedal is almost to the floor.
> >
> > What the heck?? Did I get a bad part?!? I thought it was odd it wouldn't
> > bleed... HELP!!!
> >
> > Eric
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

Not being a true believer in the pump-it-til-it-works bleeding scheme,
I used a different method when I changed my (external ) slave a whie
back. First, the replacement did NOT have a hole drilled thru in the
"bleed" port so that way was out. OK, next step. Unhooked the
plactic straps so that the slave plunger would extend, let the slave
hang down and filled the mc. Worked the slave plunger in and out
SLOWLY while the wife watched the mc reservoir - watching for bubbles
and keeping it full. Took about 5-6 full strokes of the slave to get
all the bubbles out. Hooked up the plactic straps and installed it.
No problems. If it bleeds down while just setting, suspect the
master, not the slave.

On Sat, 28 May 2005 04:22:55 UTC "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com>
wrote:

> Took the slave out and followed the directions. Although getting the shaft
> lined back up with the fork on the clutch took some finesse, it's back in
> and smoother. If I'd only done that the first time...
>
> The mechanical sound is there, but different. Guess the first sound was
> actually two sounds together. Now the click, clunk, grind, whatever, seems
> to be coming from inside the tranny itself. Seems to be related to the
> clutch or release fork. It's not the slave making the noise (unless the
> shaft is binding against something, but I can't imagine what).
>
> Is my clutch about to go? Thoughts? Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
> > Ok, got the clutch slave in and installed it. Something just wasn't
> > right -- I couldn't get the fluid to flow from the master cyl through the
> > line and come out of the bleeder on the slave. Kept pushing the clutch in
> > and out until I had worked my way through 1.5 master cyl's worth of fluid.
> > STILL, nothing coming out of the slave. However, now the slave was
> > engaging the clutch. I could have it in gear, push in the clutch, and
> > roll. Hmmm...
> >
> > Worked it some more, and the clutch felt like new. Better than it ever
> > has in the past two years. So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid was
> > in the master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the
> > slave (though having it out did nothing) and off I went. I stopped every
> > few miles, and nothing would change. Clutch was good, and fluid was good.
> > Got onto the highway and 5 minutes later I didn't have a clutch. SCARY!
> > I pumped it a LOT and it came back.
> >
> > So, in town, I had a perfectly normal clutch (stop and go driving). When
> > it wasn't used, it wouldn't work. So I got it to the point of almost not
> > working (clutch pedal would go almost to the floor before working) and
> > pulled over to look in the master cyl. Nothing wrong. No bubbles, no
> > change in fluid level, nothing. Pumped the clutch once or twice, and it
> > was back to normal. Get home, in the garage, and notice a mechanical feel
> > to the pedal. Shut off the TJ, and sure enough, I can hear the slave
> > working. It... grinds.. when the pedal is almost to the floor.
> >
> > What the heck?? Did I get a bad part?!? I thought it was odd it wouldn't
> > bleed... HELP!!!
> >
> > Eric
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

That's pretty much what had to be done. But I didn't know that at the
time...

Eric
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-MESl6IuMv5XC@anon.none.net...
> Not being a true believer in the pump-it-til-it-works bleeding scheme,
> I used a different method when I changed my (external ) slave a whie
> back. First, the replacement did NOT have a hole drilled thru in the
> "bleed" port so that way was out. OK, next step. Unhooked the
> plactic straps so that the slave plunger would extend, let the slave
> hang down and filled the mc. Worked the slave plunger in and out
> SLOWLY while the wife watched the mc reservoir - watching for bubbles
> and keeping it full. Took about 5-6 full strokes of the slave to get
> all the bubbles out. Hooked up the plactic straps and installed it.
> No problems. If it bleeds down while just setting, suspect the
> master, not the slave.
>
> On Sat, 28 May 2005 04:22:55 UTC "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Took the slave out and followed the directions. Although getting the
>> shaft
>> lined back up with the fork on the clutch took some finesse, it's back in
>> and smoother. If I'd only done that the first time...
>>
>> The mechanical sound is there, but different. Guess the first sound was
>> actually two sounds together. Now the click, clunk, grind, whatever,
>> seems
>> to be coming from inside the tranny itself. Seems to be related to the
>> clutch or release fork. It's not the slave making the noise (unless the
>> shaft is binding against something, but I can't imagine what).
>>
>> Is my clutch about to go? Thoughts? Thanks!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> "Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
>> news:mOQle.6050$PR6.5303@tornado.texas.rr.com...
>> > Ok, got the clutch slave in and installed it. Something just wasn't
>> > right -- I couldn't get the fluid to flow from the master cyl through
>> > the
>> > line and come out of the bleeder on the slave. Kept pushing the clutch
>> > in
>> > and out until I had worked my way through 1.5 master cyl's worth of
>> > fluid.
>> > STILL, nothing coming out of the slave. However, now the slave was
>> > engaging the clutch. I could have it in gear, push in the clutch, and
>> > roll. Hmmm...
>> >
>> > Worked it some more, and the clutch felt like new. Better than it ever
>> > has in the past two years. So, I ensured the proper amount of fluid
>> > was
>> > in the master, put the grommet in, put the bleeder screw back into the
>> > slave (though having it out did nothing) and off I went. I stopped
>> > every
>> > few miles, and nothing would change. Clutch was good, and fluid was
>> > good.
>> > Got onto the highway and 5 minutes later I didn't have a clutch.
>> > SCARY!
>> > I pumped it a LOT and it came back.
>> >
>> > So, in town, I had a perfectly normal clutch (stop and go driving).
>> > When
>> > it wasn't used, it wouldn't work. So I got it to the point of almost
>> > not
>> > working (clutch pedal would go almost to the floor before working) and
>> > pulled over to look in the master cyl. Nothing wrong. No bubbles, no
>> > change in fluid level, nothing. Pumped the clutch once or twice, and
>> > it
>> > was back to normal. Get home, in the garage, and notice a mechanical
>> > feel
>> > to the pedal. Shut off the TJ, and sure enough, I can hear the slave
>> > working. It... grinds.. when the pedal is almost to the floor.
>> >
>> > What the heck?? Did I get a bad part?!? I thought it was odd it
>> > wouldn't
>> > bleed... HELP!!!
>> >
>> > Eric
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea