What are my likely sources of error?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
Sort of....
You need to remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank until the
timing mark comes up on 0. Then rotate backward and see how far the
crank moves before the rotor starts moving backward. 15 to 17 degrees
is normal to worn I believe, of you are up to or over 20, then maybe you
might have burped it when you tried roll starting.
One other way also is to bring it up to the timing mark before removing
the cap. Then mark where #1 wire is and remove the cap. The rotor
should be just getting there.
Hey are the plugs still dry and if so go put some freaking gas in the
tank eh! ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
You need to remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank until the
timing mark comes up on 0. Then rotate backward and see how far the
crank moves before the rotor starts moving backward. 15 to 17 degrees
is normal to worn I believe, of you are up to or over 20, then maybe you
might have burped it when you tried roll starting.
One other way also is to bring it up to the timing mark before removing
the cap. Then mark where #1 wire is and remove the cap. The rotor
should be just getting there.
Hey are the plugs still dry and if so go put some freaking gas in the
tank eh! ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
Sort of....
You need to remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank until the
timing mark comes up on 0. Then rotate backward and see how far the
crank moves before the rotor starts moving backward. 15 to 17 degrees
is normal to worn I believe, of you are up to or over 20, then maybe you
might have burped it when you tried roll starting.
One other way also is to bring it up to the timing mark before removing
the cap. Then mark where #1 wire is and remove the cap. The rotor
should be just getting there.
Hey are the plugs still dry and if so go put some freaking gas in the
tank eh! ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
You need to remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank until the
timing mark comes up on 0. Then rotate backward and see how far the
crank moves before the rotor starts moving backward. 15 to 17 degrees
is normal to worn I believe, of you are up to or over 20, then maybe you
might have burped it when you tried roll starting.
One other way also is to bring it up to the timing mark before removing
the cap. Then mark where #1 wire is and remove the cap. The rotor
should be just getting there.
Hey are the plugs still dry and if so go put some freaking gas in the
tank eh! ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
Sort of....
You need to remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank until the
timing mark comes up on 0. Then rotate backward and see how far the
crank moves before the rotor starts moving backward. 15 to 17 degrees
is normal to worn I believe, of you are up to or over 20, then maybe you
might have burped it when you tried roll starting.
One other way also is to bring it up to the timing mark before removing
the cap. Then mark where #1 wire is and remove the cap. The rotor
should be just getting there.
Hey are the plugs still dry and if so go put some freaking gas in the
tank eh! ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
You need to remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank until the
timing mark comes up on 0. Then rotate backward and see how far the
crank moves before the rotor starts moving backward. 15 to 17 degrees
is normal to worn I believe, of you are up to or over 20, then maybe you
might have burped it when you tried roll starting.
One other way also is to bring it up to the timing mark before removing
the cap. Then mark where #1 wire is and remove the cap. The rotor
should be just getting there.
Hey are the plugs still dry and if so go put some freaking gas in the
tank eh! ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
Intake begins to open twelve degrees before top dead center,
exhaust cycle.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
exhaust cycle.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
Intake begins to open twelve degrees before top dead center,
exhaust cycle.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
exhaust cycle.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
Intake begins to open twelve degrees before top dead center,
exhaust cycle.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
exhaust cycle.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
griffin wrote:
>
> OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug
> wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I
> haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there
> any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at
> the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
When I tried to start it last nite, I used some carb cleaner, as well as
turning the distributor as said. I'm going to try the distributor trick one
more time tonight cuz I think I had done one part wrong. However, I left the
air filter cover off and let the carb cleaner dry out. When I went to start
it, it blew a pretty large quantity of gas up through the top of the carb
and all over the hood, etc. I'm starting to wonder if some hose or maybe
something in the carb is plugged up? There's also a wire harness running
from what looks to be an automatic choke on the back of the carb (closest to
the firewall) with only one wire connected to the carb that runs off into
this harness. At the same end of the harness, the other 3 wires are
broken/snipped (hard to tell cuz of the mud). They look snipped tho. Is this
important at all? I'm wondering if maybe someone didn't try and get rid of
the smog control or something?
turning the distributor as said. I'm going to try the distributor trick one
more time tonight cuz I think I had done one part wrong. However, I left the
air filter cover off and let the carb cleaner dry out. When I went to start
it, it blew a pretty large quantity of gas up through the top of the carb
and all over the hood, etc. I'm starting to wonder if some hose or maybe
something in the carb is plugged up? There's also a wire harness running
from what looks to be an automatic choke on the back of the carb (closest to
the firewall) with only one wire connected to the carb that runs off into
this harness. At the same end of the harness, the other 3 wires are
broken/snipped (hard to tell cuz of the mud). They look snipped tho. Is this
important at all? I'm wondering if maybe someone didn't try and get rid of
the smog control or something?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What are my likely sources of error?
When I tried to start it last nite, I used some carb cleaner, as well as
turning the distributor as said. I'm going to try the distributor trick one
more time tonight cuz I think I had done one part wrong. However, I left the
air filter cover off and let the carb cleaner dry out. When I went to start
it, it blew a pretty large quantity of gas up through the top of the carb
and all over the hood, etc. I'm starting to wonder if some hose or maybe
something in the carb is plugged up? There's also a wire harness running
from what looks to be an automatic choke on the back of the carb (closest to
the firewall) with only one wire connected to the carb that runs off into
this harness. At the same end of the harness, the other 3 wires are
broken/snipped (hard to tell cuz of the mud). They look snipped tho. Is this
important at all? I'm wondering if maybe someone didn't try and get rid of
the smog control or something?
turning the distributor as said. I'm going to try the distributor trick one
more time tonight cuz I think I had done one part wrong. However, I left the
air filter cover off and let the carb cleaner dry out. When I went to start
it, it blew a pretty large quantity of gas up through the top of the carb
and all over the hood, etc. I'm starting to wonder if some hose or maybe
something in the carb is plugged up? There's also a wire harness running
from what looks to be an automatic choke on the back of the carb (closest to
the firewall) with only one wire connected to the carb that runs off into
this harness. At the same end of the harness, the other 3 wires are
broken/snipped (hard to tell cuz of the mud). They look snipped tho. Is this
important at all? I'm wondering if maybe someone didn't try and get rid of
the smog control or something?