What gauge steel, body repair?
06-01-2006, 07:45 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
When I put my 'glass body on I used loctite on the nuts and they all
held perfectly with no rust because it is a sealed joint.
People do sell floor pan pieces for the tubs already made up. If you
are going to all that work anyway, cutting out all the crap and putting
in a new ready made piece would keep it going for a long time....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
held perfectly with no rust because it is a sealed joint.
People do sell floor pan pieces for the tubs already made up. If you
are going to all that work anyway, cutting out all the crap and putting
in a new ready made piece would keep it going for a long time....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
06-01-2006, 07:45 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
When I put my 'glass body on I used loctite on the nuts and they all
held perfectly with no rust because it is a sealed joint.
People do sell floor pan pieces for the tubs already made up. If you
are going to all that work anyway, cutting out all the crap and putting
in a new ready made piece would keep it going for a long time....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
held perfectly with no rust because it is a sealed joint.
People do sell floor pan pieces for the tubs already made up. If you
are going to all that work anyway, cutting out all the crap and putting
in a new ready made piece would keep it going for a long time....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
06-01-2006, 08:36 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
don't let them scare you, I am welding sheet with a gasless Mig (wire
feed flux welder) you just have to use the right tecnique. A cheap
Harbor frieght flux mig cost around 100 bucks and I've managed 20 guage
sheet with patience and the will to grind ugly welds.
My last project was to weld a 18 guage tube onto the roughly 16 guage
metal "Air Hat" that comes with a Holley pro-jection fuel injection
system. The Harbor frieght Flux core mig did good enough that I didn't
even grind the welds down before I powdercoated the new air cleaner
housing (air hat or whatever you want to call the housing that sits on
top of a trottle body injector like an old carb style filter housing)
The Jeep is now breathing cold air through a K&N style cone filter
through 4" OD (always overbuild!) tubing, the damn thing positively
ROARS at WOT now.. Not that it's way more powerfull but the tubing
ressonates from 1500 RPM's and up...
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
feed flux welder) you just have to use the right tecnique. A cheap
Harbor frieght flux mig cost around 100 bucks and I've managed 20 guage
sheet with patience and the will to grind ugly welds.
My last project was to weld a 18 guage tube onto the roughly 16 guage
metal "Air Hat" that comes with a Holley pro-jection fuel injection
system. The Harbor frieght Flux core mig did good enough that I didn't
even grind the welds down before I powdercoated the new air cleaner
housing (air hat or whatever you want to call the housing that sits on
top of a trottle body injector like an old carb style filter housing)
The Jeep is now breathing cold air through a K&N style cone filter
through 4" OD (always overbuild!) tubing, the damn thing positively
ROARS at WOT now.. Not that it's way more powerfull but the tubing
ressonates from 1500 RPM's and up...
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
06-01-2006, 08:36 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
don't let them scare you, I am welding sheet with a gasless Mig (wire
feed flux welder) you just have to use the right tecnique. A cheap
Harbor frieght flux mig cost around 100 bucks and I've managed 20 guage
sheet with patience and the will to grind ugly welds.
My last project was to weld a 18 guage tube onto the roughly 16 guage
metal "Air Hat" that comes with a Holley pro-jection fuel injection
system. The Harbor frieght Flux core mig did good enough that I didn't
even grind the welds down before I powdercoated the new air cleaner
housing (air hat or whatever you want to call the housing that sits on
top of a trottle body injector like an old carb style filter housing)
The Jeep is now breathing cold air through a K&N style cone filter
through 4" OD (always overbuild!) tubing, the damn thing positively
ROARS at WOT now.. Not that it's way more powerfull but the tubing
ressonates from 1500 RPM's and up...
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
feed flux welder) you just have to use the right tecnique. A cheap
Harbor frieght flux mig cost around 100 bucks and I've managed 20 guage
sheet with patience and the will to grind ugly welds.
My last project was to weld a 18 guage tube onto the roughly 16 guage
metal "Air Hat" that comes with a Holley pro-jection fuel injection
system. The Harbor frieght Flux core mig did good enough that I didn't
even grind the welds down before I powdercoated the new air cleaner
housing (air hat or whatever you want to call the housing that sits on
top of a trottle body injector like an old carb style filter housing)
The Jeep is now breathing cold air through a K&N style cone filter
through 4" OD (always overbuild!) tubing, the damn thing positively
ROARS at WOT now.. Not that it's way more powerfull but the tubing
ressonates from 1500 RPM's and up...
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
06-01-2006, 08:36 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
don't let them scare you, I am welding sheet with a gasless Mig (wire
feed flux welder) you just have to use the right tecnique. A cheap
Harbor frieght flux mig cost around 100 bucks and I've managed 20 guage
sheet with patience and the will to grind ugly welds.
My last project was to weld a 18 guage tube onto the roughly 16 guage
metal "Air Hat" that comes with a Holley pro-jection fuel injection
system. The Harbor frieght Flux core mig did good enough that I didn't
even grind the welds down before I powdercoated the new air cleaner
housing (air hat or whatever you want to call the housing that sits on
top of a trottle body injector like an old carb style filter housing)
The Jeep is now breathing cold air through a K&N style cone filter
through 4" OD (always overbuild!) tubing, the damn thing positively
ROARS at WOT now.. Not that it's way more powerfull but the tubing
ressonates from 1500 RPM's and up...
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
feed flux welder) you just have to use the right tecnique. A cheap
Harbor frieght flux mig cost around 100 bucks and I've managed 20 guage
sheet with patience and the will to grind ugly welds.
My last project was to weld a 18 guage tube onto the roughly 16 guage
metal "Air Hat" that comes with a Holley pro-jection fuel injection
system. The Harbor frieght Flux core mig did good enough that I didn't
even grind the welds down before I powdercoated the new air cleaner
housing (air hat or whatever you want to call the housing that sits on
top of a trottle body injector like an old carb style filter housing)
The Jeep is now breathing cold air through a K&N style cone filter
through 4" OD (always overbuild!) tubing, the damn thing positively
ROARS at WOT now.. Not that it's way more powerfull but the tubing
ressonates from 1500 RPM's and up...
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
06-02-2006, 11:01 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149203389.217659.182600@j55g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
>
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149203389.217659.182600@j55g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
>
06-02-2006, 11:01 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149203389.217659.182600@j55g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
>
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149203389.217659.182600@j55g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
>
06-02-2006, 11:01 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149203389.217659.182600@j55g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
>
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149203389.217659.182600@j55g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
>
06-02-2006, 12:17 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
would be expensive to get started.
I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
support box/channel peices to the bottom?
My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
Land this summer =[
Earle Horton wrote:
> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>
> Earle
>
it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
would be expensive to get started.
I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
support box/channel peices to the bottom?
My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
Land this summer =[
Earle Horton wrote:
> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>
> Earle
>
06-02-2006, 12:17 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
would be expensive to get started.
I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
support box/channel peices to the bottom?
My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
Land this summer =[
Earle Horton wrote:
> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>
> Earle
>
it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
would be expensive to get started.
I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
support box/channel peices to the bottom?
My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
Land this summer =[
Earle Horton wrote:
> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>
> Earle
>