What gauge steel, body repair?
05-31-2006, 05:42 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
What gauge steel, body repair?
What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
that.
At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
anyway, it isn't original).
I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
(and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
that.
At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
anyway, it isn't original).
I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
(and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
05-31-2006, 06:33 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
If I had it do over again, I'd buy a new steel tub:
http://www.trailquest.com/body-parts/cj2a.shtml
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/V...001014/c-10101
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
http://www.trailquest.com/body-parts/cj2a.shtml
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/V...001014/c-10101
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
05-31-2006, 06:33 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
If I had it do over again, I'd buy a new steel tub:
http://www.trailquest.com/body-parts/cj2a.shtml
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/V...001014/c-10101
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
http://www.trailquest.com/body-parts/cj2a.shtml
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/V...001014/c-10101
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
05-31-2006, 06:33 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
If I had it do over again, I'd buy a new steel tub:
http://www.trailquest.com/body-parts/cj2a.shtml
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/V...001014/c-10101
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
http://www.trailquest.com/body-parts/cj2a.shtml
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/V...001014/c-10101
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
05-31-2006, 09:10 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
You're not going to weld this stuff with a buzz box, unless you are a lot
better than I am, and maybe not even then. MIG will work, as will torch
welding or brazing. I am not up on all the fancy modern stuff.
A vehicle floor should be at least 20 gauge, in my opinion. That is what I
used for the floor of my Bug when I repaired it. I took a piece of the
original metal to a shop, and they told me it was "probably close to 22".
At the risk of repeating myself, there is no way you are going to weld this
stuff with a buzz box, unless you are Nathan. He could probably do it.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149111730.170951.191150@g10g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
better than I am, and maybe not even then. MIG will work, as will torch
welding or brazing. I am not up on all the fancy modern stuff.
A vehicle floor should be at least 20 gauge, in my opinion. That is what I
used for the floor of my Bug when I repaired it. I took a piece of the
original metal to a shop, and they told me it was "probably close to 22".
At the risk of repeating myself, there is no way you are going to weld this
stuff with a buzz box, unless you are Nathan. He could probably do it.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149111730.170951.191150@g10g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
05-31-2006, 09:10 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
You're not going to weld this stuff with a buzz box, unless you are a lot
better than I am, and maybe not even then. MIG will work, as will torch
welding or brazing. I am not up on all the fancy modern stuff.
A vehicle floor should be at least 20 gauge, in my opinion. That is what I
used for the floor of my Bug when I repaired it. I took a piece of the
original metal to a shop, and they told me it was "probably close to 22".
At the risk of repeating myself, there is no way you are going to weld this
stuff with a buzz box, unless you are Nathan. He could probably do it.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149111730.170951.191150@g10g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
better than I am, and maybe not even then. MIG will work, as will torch
welding or brazing. I am not up on all the fancy modern stuff.
A vehicle floor should be at least 20 gauge, in my opinion. That is what I
used for the floor of my Bug when I repaired it. I took a piece of the
original metal to a shop, and they told me it was "probably close to 22".
At the risk of repeating myself, there is no way you are going to weld this
stuff with a buzz box, unless you are Nathan. He could probably do it.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149111730.170951.191150@g10g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
05-31-2006, 09:10 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
You're not going to weld this stuff with a buzz box, unless you are a lot
better than I am, and maybe not even then. MIG will work, as will torch
welding or brazing. I am not up on all the fancy modern stuff.
A vehicle floor should be at least 20 gauge, in my opinion. That is what I
used for the floor of my Bug when I repaired it. I took a piece of the
original metal to a shop, and they told me it was "probably close to 22".
At the risk of repeating myself, there is no way you are going to weld this
stuff with a buzz box, unless you are Nathan. He could probably do it.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149111730.170951.191150@g10g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
better than I am, and maybe not even then. MIG will work, as will torch
welding or brazing. I am not up on all the fancy modern stuff.
A vehicle floor should be at least 20 gauge, in my opinion. That is what I
used for the floor of my Bug when I repaired it. I took a piece of the
original metal to a shop, and they told me it was "probably close to 22".
At the risk of repeating myself, there is no way you are going to weld this
stuff with a buzz box, unless you are Nathan. He could probably do it.
Earle
<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149111730.170951.191150@g10g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
>
> I don't care how it looks, I'm not going to sale my jeep, and it is
> already far from a collectors item. The tub is rusted all the way
> through, pretty much all the way along the supports, a.k.a. "hat
> channel" (seems like maybe the wood in the supports has something to do
> with the rusting of those specific areas). I'm thinking I'll cut the
> tub so that I'll end up with the support channel completely cut-off,
> and the wholes I cut will pretty much trace where the channel was (be
> about 1" larger on each side). I'll use my angle-grinder for that,
> with a cut-off wheel. Then I'll weld the sheet metal on to cover the
> holes. I'll have to bend the sheet metal in places, which will not
> follow the original shape exactly, but I think this will be fine.
> Instead of a curved shape, it will probably be more like a couple of
> angles, since I also need to fit the tubing here, and I can't bend
> that.
>
> At the same time I'll probably also remove the toolbox, and just have
> empty space under the seat for now (my seat frame doesn't fold forward
> anyway, it isn't original).
>
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right (have to cut out more of the tub, and have to cut along
> just the right lines to fit the new stuff in). I'm looking for more of
> an ugly band-aid, since you can't see the bottom, and I have carpet
> (and some heat shield/padding material) on the inside.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
05-31-2006, 09:32 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
eselk@surfbest.net did pass the time by typing:
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
(at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
With all the projects you mention I'd suggest reading Nate's page
about welding gear and getting a MIG and Plasma Cutter.
http://collierwelding.com/
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right
Ah..But with prefab you only use what you need. And some of those
shapes are damn hard to do without metal working equipment.
Consider how much rust you might find, the size of the patch, etc.
Basically you just cut/transfer/cut/weld with replacement panels.
Tear into it, figure out all the rust spots, then price out a new
tub, your time, etc.
What ever your choice is, good luck.
--
DougW
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
(at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
With all the projects you mention I'd suggest reading Nate's page
about welding gear and getting a MIG and Plasma Cutter.
http://collierwelding.com/
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right
Ah..But with prefab you only use what you need. And some of those
shapes are damn hard to do without metal working equipment.
Consider how much rust you might find, the size of the patch, etc.
Basically you just cut/transfer/cut/weld with replacement panels.
Tear into it, figure out all the rust spots, then price out a new
tub, your time, etc.
What ever your choice is, good luck.
--
DougW
05-31-2006, 09:32 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
eselk@surfbest.net did pass the time by typing:
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
(at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
With all the projects you mention I'd suggest reading Nate's page
about welding gear and getting a MIG and Plasma Cutter.
http://collierwelding.com/
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right
Ah..But with prefab you only use what you need. And some of those
shapes are damn hard to do without metal working equipment.
Consider how much rust you might find, the size of the patch, etc.
Basically you just cut/transfer/cut/weld with replacement panels.
Tear into it, figure out all the rust spots, then price out a new
tub, your time, etc.
What ever your choice is, good luck.
--
DougW
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
(at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
With all the projects you mention I'd suggest reading Nate's page
about welding gear and getting a MIG and Plasma Cutter.
http://collierwelding.com/
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right
Ah..But with prefab you only use what you need. And some of those
shapes are damn hard to do without metal working equipment.
Consider how much rust you might find, the size of the patch, etc.
Basically you just cut/transfer/cut/weld with replacement panels.
Tear into it, figure out all the rust spots, then price out a new
tub, your time, etc.
What ever your choice is, good luck.
--
DougW
05-31-2006, 09:32 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
eselk@surfbest.net did pass the time by typing:
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
(at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
With all the projects you mention I'd suggest reading Nate's page
about welding gear and getting a MIG and Plasma Cutter.
http://collierwelding.com/
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right
Ah..But with prefab you only use what you need. And some of those
shapes are damn hard to do without metal working equipment.
Consider how much rust you might find, the size of the patch, etc.
Basically you just cut/transfer/cut/weld with replacement panels.
Tear into it, figure out all the rust spots, then price out a new
tub, your time, etc.
What ever your choice is, good luck.
--
DougW
> What gauge steel is used for the floor panels in a 1948 CJ2A? Also,
> what gauge would be good for square tubing to replace the floor panel
> supports? I think it would either be 10 or 12 gauge, but not sure
> which. Anyone have any advice on attempting these repairs? I'll be
> using an ARC welder -- I don't have a wire-feed.
As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
(at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
With all the projects you mention I'd suggest reading Nate's page
about welding gear and getting a MIG and Plasma Cutter.
http://collierwelding.com/
> I can get all of the steel I need for less than $100, where it would
> cost $300 to $600 to get the prefab stuff from Classic Enterprises or
> Omix-Ada. Plus, the prefab stuff sounds like more work to get it to
> turn out right
Ah..But with prefab you only use what you need. And some of those
shapes are damn hard to do without metal working equipment.
Consider how much rust you might find, the size of the patch, etc.
Basically you just cut/transfer/cut/weld with replacement panels.
Tear into it, figure out all the rust spots, then price out a new
tub, your time, etc.
What ever your choice is, good luck.
--
DougW