L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> Hi Dan,
> If you bought it from a Jeep place for your engine it should just
> bolt on without rejetting, a really big headache for the VW crowd that
> use it.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>


Thanks Bill, I bought it here:

http://www.carbs.net/after.htm


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L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> Hi Dan,
> If you bought it from a Jeep place for your engine it should just
> bolt on without rejetting, a really big headache for the VW crowd that
> use it.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>


Thanks Bill, I bought it here:

http://www.carbs.net/after.htm


--
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
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L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> Hi Dan,
> If you bought it from a Jeep place for your engine it should just
> bolt on without rejetting, a really big headache for the VW crowd that
> use it.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>


Thanks Bill, I bought it here:

http://www.carbs.net/after.htm


--
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
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Danny Bains did pass the time by typing:

> Thanks Doug. So do I just take the vice grips to the old studs?

Only if they arn't going to be reused. Take them out carefully,
there shouldn't be that much resistance. If it seems your having
to lean on it then put some penetrating oil on the stud and let it
work. The last thing you want to do is snap off a stud in the
manifold.

FWIW.. When you do have the carb off, stuff a shop rag into the intake.
That will catch any loose bits that might fall in. Like the old or new
studs. (yes, I learned the hard way) ^_^

--
DougW

 

Danny Bains did pass the time by typing:

> Thanks Doug. So do I just take the vice grips to the old studs?

Only if they arn't going to be reused. Take them out carefully,
there shouldn't be that much resistance. If it seems your having
to lean on it then put some penetrating oil on the stud and let it
work. The last thing you want to do is snap off a stud in the
manifold.

FWIW.. When you do have the carb off, stuff a shop rag into the intake.
That will catch any loose bits that might fall in. Like the old or new
studs. (yes, I learned the hard way) ^_^

--
DougW

 

Danny Bains did pass the time by typing:

> Thanks Doug. So do I just take the vice grips to the old studs?

Only if they arn't going to be reused. Take them out carefully,
there shouldn't be that much resistance. If it seems your having
to lean on it then put some penetrating oil on the stud and let it
work. The last thing you want to do is snap off a stud in the
manifold.

FWIW.. When you do have the carb off, stuff a shop rag into the intake.
That will catch any loose bits that might fall in. Like the old or new
studs. (yes, I learned the hard way) ^_^

--
DougW

 

DougW wrote:

> Danny Bains did pass the time by typing:
>> I ordered the weber 551 today for the 86 CJ -- it will be here Friday. I
>> am not really much of a mechanic, but I have lots of tools, and I'm
>> pretty
>> handy with mechanical stuff :) First I know I have to take out the studs
>> that hold the old carb on, how much trouble is this? Second, I've never
>> adjusted a carb or timing or anything like that before, so what will have
>> to be adjusted if I just bolt the weber on and hook everything up? btw,
>> the computer is completly bypassed, and nearly all the vacume stuff is
>> gone. Thanks.
>
> The bolts that hold a carb down are easy to take out.
> Remember, use a new gasket and don't overtighen the bolts
> on your new carb. around 36 in.lbs (that's INCH pounds)
> or 3 ft.lbs. You can put way more than that with just a
> nutdriver.
>
> Old rule (please double check this) was finger tight plus 1/4 turn.
>
> .. It's been too long since I worked on a carb. You shouldn't have
> to mess with the timing, just set the base idle and warmup idle/AC
> solenoid
> if you have it. Dunno about the mix.
>


Thanks Doug. So do I just take the vice grips to the old studs?


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Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
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DougW wrote:

> Danny Bains did pass the time by typing:
>> I ordered the weber 551 today for the 86 CJ -- it will be here Friday. I
>> am not really much of a mechanic, but I have lots of tools, and I'm
>> pretty
>> handy with mechanical stuff :) First I know I have to take out the studs
>> that hold the old carb on, how much trouble is this? Second, I've never
>> adjusted a carb or timing or anything like that before, so what will have
>> to be adjusted if I just bolt the weber on and hook everything up? btw,
>> the computer is completly bypassed, and nearly all the vacume stuff is
>> gone. Thanks.
>
> The bolts that hold a carb down are easy to take out.
> Remember, use a new gasket and don't overtighen the bolts
> on your new carb. around 36 in.lbs (that's INCH pounds)
> or 3 ft.lbs. You can put way more than that with just a
> nutdriver.
>
> Old rule (please double check this) was finger tight plus 1/4 turn.
>
> .. It's been too long since I worked on a carb. You shouldn't have
> to mess with the timing, just set the base idle and warmup idle/AC
> solenoid
> if you have it. Dunno about the mix.
>


Thanks Doug. So do I just take the vice grips to the old studs?


--
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
What's Microsoft up to: http://www.euronet.nl/users/frankvw/IhateMS.html

 

DougW wrote:

> Danny Bains did pass the time by typing:
>> I ordered the weber 551 today for the 86 CJ -- it will be here Friday. I
>> am not really much of a mechanic, but I have lots of tools, and I'm
>> pretty
>> handy with mechanical stuff :) First I know I have to take out the studs
>> that hold the old carb on, how much trouble is this? Second, I've never
>> adjusted a carb or timing or anything like that before, so what will have
>> to be adjusted if I just bolt the weber on and hook everything up? btw,
>> the computer is completly bypassed, and nearly all the vacume stuff is
>> gone. Thanks.
>
> The bolts that hold a carb down are easy to take out.
> Remember, use a new gasket and don't overtighen the bolts
> on your new carb. around 36 in.lbs (that's INCH pounds)
> or 3 ft.lbs. You can put way more than that with just a
> nutdriver.
>
> Old rule (please double check this) was finger tight plus 1/4 turn.
>
> .. It's been too long since I worked on a carb. You shouldn't have
> to mess with the timing, just set the base idle and warmup idle/AC
> solenoid
> if you have it. Dunno about the mix.
>


Thanks Doug. So do I just take the vice grips to the old studs?


--
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
What's Microsoft up to: http://www.euronet.nl/users/frankvw/IhateMS.html