Mike Romain

What are you using for a heater blower motor?

Ok, are you the person I think with the link to cutting the blower motor
hole for the big GM blower motor before I go into how much better it
is??

Mike


Rich wrote:
>
> Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real quick.
> I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
> system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well do
> it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
> I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
> lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad to
> see some of the old posters are still around.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
> > There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
> >
> > Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
> > fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
> > really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
> > silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
> > than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
> > glass if installed with silicone.
> >
> > Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
> > for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
> >
> > The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
> > folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
> > differential cover.
> >
> > They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
> > days.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Rich wrote:
> >>
> >> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
> >> screws
> >> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
> >> gouped
> >> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right
> >> now
> >> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks.
> >> If
> >> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going
> >> to
> >> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
> >> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
> >> relatively
> >> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
> >>
> >> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
> >> would
> >> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be
> >> seen
> >> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to
> >> be
> >> a challenge.
> >> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
> >>
> >> ThanksMike,
> >> Rich
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
> >> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> >> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> >> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
> >> >
> >> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> >> > defrost duct....
> >> >
> >> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >> >
> >> > Rich wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
> >> >> leaking
> >> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
> >> >> (I've
> >> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think
> >> >> is
> >> >> the
> >> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
> >> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
> >> >> and
> >> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
> >> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
> >> >> the
> >> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
> >> >> So here are my 2 questions.
> >> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
> >> >> turned
> >> >> out to be something else?
> >> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone
> >> >> have
> >> >> a
> >> >> suggestion?
> >> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
> >> >> rubber
> >> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
> >> >> the
> >> >> plenum...
> >> >>
> >> >> Thoughts, comments?
> >> >>
> >> >> Rich Harris

Mike Romain

What are you using for a heater blower motor?

Ok, are you the person I think with the link to cutting the blower motor
hole for the big GM blower motor before I go into how much better it
is??

Mike


Rich wrote:
>
> Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real quick.
> I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
> system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well do
> it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
> I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
> lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad to
> see some of the old posters are still around.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
> > There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
> >
> > Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
> > fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
> > really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
> > silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
> > than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
> > glass if installed with silicone.
> >
> > Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
> > for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
> >
> > The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
> > folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
> > differential cover.
> >
> > They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
> > days.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Rich wrote:
> >>
> >> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
> >> screws
> >> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
> >> gouped
> >> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right
> >> now
> >> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks.
> >> If
> >> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going
> >> to
> >> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
> >> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
> >> relatively
> >> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
> >>
> >> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
> >> would
> >> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be
> >> seen
> >> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to
> >> be
> >> a challenge.
> >> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
> >>
> >> ThanksMike,
> >> Rich
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
> >> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> >> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> >> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
> >> >
> >> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> >> > defrost duct....
> >> >
> >> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >> >
> >> > Rich wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
> >> >> leaking
> >> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
> >> >> (I've
> >> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think
> >> >> is
> >> >> the
> >> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
> >> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
> >> >> and
> >> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
> >> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
> >> >> the
> >> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
> >> >> So here are my 2 questions.
> >> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
> >> >> turned
> >> >> out to be something else?
> >> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone
> >> >> have
> >> >> a
> >> >> suggestion?
> >> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
> >> >> rubber
> >> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
> >> >> the
> >> >> plenum...
> >> >>
> >> >> Thoughts, comments?
> >> >>
> >> >> Rich Harris

Rich

I don't have a link to it (no website), but I did the mod years ago. Well
worth the time and money spent. Everyone with a CJ should have it.
Rich

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A42A89.6FB04638@sympatico.ca...
> What are you using for a heater blower motor?
>
> Ok, are you the person I think with the link to cutting the blower motor
> hole for the big GM blower motor before I go into how much better it
> is??
>
> Mike
>
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real
>> quick.
>> I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
>> system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well
>> do
>> it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
>> I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
>> lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad
>> to
>> see some of the old posters are still around.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
>> > There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
>> >
>> > Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
>> > fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
>> > really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
>> > silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
>> > than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
>> > glass if installed with silicone.
>> >
>> > Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of
>> > silicone
>> > for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
>> >
>> > The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
>> > folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
>> > differential cover.
>> >
>> > They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
>> > days.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> >
>> > Rich wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
>> >> screws
>> >> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
>> >> gouped
>> >> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test.
>> >> Right
>> >> now
>> >> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for
>> >> leaks.
>> >> If
>> >> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm
>> >> going
>> >> to
>> >> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but
>> >> I'm
>> >> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
>> >> relatively
>> >> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>> >>
>> >> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
>> >> would
>> >> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can
>> >> be
>> >> seen
>> >> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving
>> >> to
>> >> be
>> >> a challenge.
>> >> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>> >>
>> >> ThanksMike,
>> >> Rich
>> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>> >> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll
>> >> >or
>> >> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe
>> >> > get
>> >> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>> >> >
>> >> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into
>> >> > the
>> >> > defrost duct....
>> >> >
>> >> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>> >> >
>> >> > Mike
>> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >
>> >> > Rich wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> >> >> leaking
>> >> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is
>> >> >> clear
>> >> >> (I've
>> >> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I
>> >> >> think
>> >> >> is
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> >> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the
>> >> >> top
>> >> >> and
>> >> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it
>> >> >> from
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> >> >> So here are my 2 questions.
>> >> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it
>> >> >> that
>> >> >> turned
>> >> >> out to be something else?
>> >> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does
>> >> >> anyone
>> >> >> have
>> >> >> a
>> >> >> suggestion?
>> >> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
>> >> >> rubber
>> >> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> plenum...
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thoughts, comments?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Rich Harris

Rich

I don't have a link to it (no website), but I did the mod years ago. Well
worth the time and money spent. Everyone with a CJ should have it.
Rich

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A42A89.6FB04638@sympatico.ca...
> What are you using for a heater blower motor?
>
> Ok, are you the person I think with the link to cutting the blower motor
> hole for the big GM blower motor before I go into how much better it
> is??
>
> Mike
>
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real
>> quick.
>> I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
>> system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well
>> do
>> it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
>> I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
>> lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad
>> to
>> see some of the old posters are still around.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
>> > There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
>> >
>> > Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
>> > fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
>> > really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
>> > silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
>> > than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
>> > glass if installed with silicone.
>> >
>> > Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of
>> > silicone
>> > for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
>> >
>> > The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
>> > folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
>> > differential cover.
>> >
>> > They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
>> > days.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> >
>> > Rich wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
>> >> screws
>> >> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
>> >> gouped
>> >> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test.
>> >> Right
>> >> now
>> >> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for
>> >> leaks.
>> >> If
>> >> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm
>> >> going
>> >> to
>> >> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but
>> >> I'm
>> >> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
>> >> relatively
>> >> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>> >>
>> >> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
>> >> would
>> >> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can
>> >> be
>> >> seen
>> >> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving
>> >> to
>> >> be
>> >> a challenge.
>> >> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>> >>
>> >> ThanksMike,
>> >> Rich
>> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>> >> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll
>> >> >or
>> >> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe
>> >> > get
>> >> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>> >> >
>> >> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into
>> >> > the
>> >> > defrost duct....
>> >> >
>> >> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>> >> >
>> >> > Mike
>> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >
>> >> > Rich wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> >> >> leaking
>> >> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is
>> >> >> clear
>> >> >> (I've
>> >> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I
>> >> >> think
>> >> >> is
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> >> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the
>> >> >> top
>> >> >> and
>> >> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it
>> >> >> from
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> >> >> So here are my 2 questions.
>> >> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it
>> >> >> that
>> >> >> turned
>> >> >> out to be something else?
>> >> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does
>> >> >> anyone
>> >> >> have
>> >> >> a
>> >> >> suggestion?
>> >> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
>> >> >> rubber
>> >> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> plenum...
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thoughts, comments?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Rich Harris

Rich

I don't have a link to it (no website), but I did the mod years ago. Well
worth the time and money spent. Everyone with a CJ should have it.
Rich

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A42A89.6FB04638@sympatico.ca...
> What are you using for a heater blower motor?
>
> Ok, are you the person I think with the link to cutting the blower motor
> hole for the big GM blower motor before I go into how much better it
> is??
>
> Mike
>
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real
>> quick.
>> I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
>> system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well
>> do
>> it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
>> I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
>> lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad
>> to
>> see some of the old posters are still around.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
>> > There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
>> >
>> > Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
>> > fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
>> > really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
>> > silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
>> > than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
>> > glass if installed with silicone.
>> >
>> > Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of
>> > silicone
>> > for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
>> >
>> > The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
>> > folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
>> > differential cover.
>> >
>> > They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
>> > days.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> >
>> > Rich wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
>> >> screws
>> >> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
>> >> gouped
>> >> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test.
>> >> Right
>> >> now
>> >> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for
>> >> leaks.
>> >> If
>> >> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm
>> >> going
>> >> to
>> >> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but
>> >> I'm
>> >> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
>> >> relatively
>> >> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>> >>
>> >> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
>> >> would
>> >> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can
>> >> be
>> >> seen
>> >> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving
>> >> to
>> >> be
>> >> a challenge.
>> >> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>> >>
>> >> ThanksMike,
>> >> Rich
>> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>> >> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll
>> >> >or
>> >> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe
>> >> > get
>> >> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>> >> >
>> >> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into
>> >> > the
>> >> > defrost duct....
>> >> >
>> >> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>> >> >
>> >> > Mike
>> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >
>> >> > Rich wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> >> >> leaking
>> >> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is
>> >> >> clear
>> >> >> (I've
>> >> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I
>> >> >> think
>> >> >> is
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> >> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the
>> >> >> top
>> >> >> and
>> >> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it
>> >> >> from
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> >> >> So here are my 2 questions.
>> >> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it
>> >> >> that
>> >> >> turned
>> >> >> out to be something else?
>> >> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does
>> >> >> anyone
>> >> >> have
>> >> >> a
>> >> >> suggestion?
>> >> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
>> >> >> rubber
>> >> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> plenum...
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thoughts, comments?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Rich Harris