I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover screws
go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and gouped
the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right now
I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks. If
this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going to
reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is relatively
new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.

Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it would
be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be seen
AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to be
a challenge.
I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.

ThanksMike,
Rich
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>
> Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> defrost duct....
>
> The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> leaking
>> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
>> (I've
>> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think is
>> the
>> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
>> and
>> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
>> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
>> the
>> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> So here are my 2 questions.
>> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
>> turned
>> out to be something else?
>> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone have
>> a
>> suggestion?
>> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible rubber
>> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside the
>> plenum...
>>
>> Thoughts, comments?
>>
>> Rich Harris

 

I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover screws
go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and gouped
the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right now
I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks. If
this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going to
reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is relatively
new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.

Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it would
be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be seen
AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to be
a challenge.
I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.

ThanksMike,
Rich
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>
> Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> defrost duct....
>
> The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> leaking
>> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
>> (I've
>> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think is
>> the
>> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
>> and
>> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
>> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
>> the
>> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> So here are my 2 questions.
>> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
>> turned
>> out to be something else?
>> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone have
>> a
>> suggestion?
>> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible rubber
>> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside the
>> plenum...
>>
>> Thoughts, comments?
>>
>> Rich Harris

 

I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover screws
go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and gouped
the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right now
I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks. If
this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going to
reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is relatively
new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.

Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it would
be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be seen
AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to be
a challenge.
I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.

ThanksMike,
Rich
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>
> Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> defrost duct....
>
> The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> leaking
>> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
>> (I've
>> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think is
>> the
>> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
>> and
>> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
>> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
>> the
>> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> So here are my 2 questions.
>> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
>> turned
>> out to be something else?
>> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone have
>> a
>> suggestion?
>> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible rubber
>> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside the
>> plenum...
>>
>> Thoughts, comments?
>>
>> Rich Harris

 

There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...

Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
glass if installed with silicone.

Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.

The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
differential cover.

They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
days.

Mike

Rich wrote:
>
> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover screws
> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and gouped
> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right now
> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks. If
> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going to
> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is relatively
> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>
> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it would
> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be seen
> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to be
> a challenge.
> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>
> ThanksMike,
> Rich
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
> >
> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> > defrost duct....
> >
> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Rich wrote:
> >>
> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
> >> leaking
> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
> >> (I've
> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think is
> >> the
> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
> >> and
> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
> >> the
> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
> >> So here are my 2 questions.
> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
> >> turned
> >> out to be something else?
> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone have
> >> a
> >> suggestion?
> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible rubber
> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside the
> >> plenum...
> >>
> >> Thoughts, comments?
> >>
> >> Rich Harris

 

There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...

Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
glass if installed with silicone.

Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.

The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
differential cover.

They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
days.

Mike

Rich wrote:
>
> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover screws
> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and gouped
> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right now
> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks. If
> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going to
> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is relatively
> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>
> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it would
> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be seen
> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to be
> a challenge.
> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>
> ThanksMike,
> Rich
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
> >
> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> > defrost duct....
> >
> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Rich wrote:
> >>
> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
> >> leaking
> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
> >> (I've
> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think is
> >> the
> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
> >> and
> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
> >> the
> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
> >> So here are my 2 questions.
> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
> >> turned
> >> out to be something else?
> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone have
> >> a
> >> suggestion?
> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible rubber
> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside the
> >> plenum...
> >>
> >> Thoughts, comments?
> >>
> >> Rich Harris

 

There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...

Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
glass if installed with silicone.

Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.

The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
differential cover.

They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
days.

Mike

Rich wrote:
>
> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover screws
> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and gouped
> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right now
> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks. If
> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going to
> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is relatively
> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>
> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it would
> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be seen
> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to be
> a challenge.
> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>
> ThanksMike,
> Rich
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
> >
> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> > defrost duct....
> >
> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Rich wrote:
> >>
> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
> >> leaking
> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
> >> (I've
> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think is
> >> the
> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
> >> and
> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
> >> the
> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
> >> So here are my 2 questions.
> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
> >> turned
> >> out to be something else?
> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone have
> >> a
> >> suggestion?
> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible rubber
> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside the
> >> plenum...
> >>
> >> Thoughts, comments?
> >>
> >> Rich Harris

 

Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real quick.
I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well do
it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad to
see some of the old posters are still around.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
> There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
>
> Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
> fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
> really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
> silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
> than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
> glass if installed with silicone.
>
> Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
> for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
>
> The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
> folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
> differential cover.
>
> They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
> days.
>
> Mike
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
>> screws
>> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
>> gouped
>> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right
>> now
>> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks.
>> If
>> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going
>> to
>> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
>> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
>> relatively
>> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>>
>> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
>> would
>> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be
>> seen
>> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to
>> be
>> a challenge.
>> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>>
>> ThanksMike,
>> Rich
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
>> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
>> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>> >
>> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
>> > defrost duct....
>> >
>> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > Rich wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> >> leaking
>> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
>> >> (I've
>> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think
>> >> is
>> >> the
>> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
>> >> and
>> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
>> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
>> >> the
>> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> >> So here are my 2 questions.
>> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
>> >> turned
>> >> out to be something else?
>> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone
>> >> have
>> >> a
>> >> suggestion?
>> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
>> >> rubber
>> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
>> >> the
>> >> plenum...
>> >>
>> >> Thoughts, comments?
>> >>
>> >> Rich Harris

 

Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real quick.
I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well do
it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad to
see some of the old posters are still around.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
> There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
>
> Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
> fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
> really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
> silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
> than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
> glass if installed with silicone.
>
> Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
> for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
>
> The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
> folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
> differential cover.
>
> They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
> days.
>
> Mike
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
>> screws
>> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
>> gouped
>> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right
>> now
>> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks.
>> If
>> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going
>> to
>> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
>> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
>> relatively
>> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>>
>> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
>> would
>> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be
>> seen
>> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to
>> be
>> a challenge.
>> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>>
>> ThanksMike,
>> Rich
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
>> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
>> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>> >
>> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
>> > defrost duct....
>> >
>> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > Rich wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> >> leaking
>> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
>> >> (I've
>> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think
>> >> is
>> >> the
>> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
>> >> and
>> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
>> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
>> >> the
>> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> >> So here are my 2 questions.
>> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
>> >> turned
>> >> out to be something else?
>> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone
>> >> have
>> >> a
>> >> suggestion?
>> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
>> >> rubber
>> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
>> >> the
>> >> plenum...
>> >>
>> >> Thoughts, comments?
>> >>
>> >> Rich Harris

 

Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real quick.
I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well do
it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad to
see some of the old posters are still around.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
> There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
>
> Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
> fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
> really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
> silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
> than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
> glass if installed with silicone.
>
> Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
> for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
>
> The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
> folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
> differential cover.
>
> They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
> days.
>
> Mike
>
> Rich wrote:
>>
>> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
>> screws
>> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
>> gouped
>> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right
>> now
>> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks.
>> If
>> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going
>> to
>> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
>> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
>> relatively
>> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
>>
>> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
>> would
>> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be
>> seen
>> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to
>> be
>> a challenge.
>> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
>>
>> ThanksMike,
>> Rich
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
>> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
>> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
>> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
>> >
>> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
>> > defrost duct....
>> >
>> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > Rich wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
>> >> leaking
>> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
>> >> (I've
>> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think
>> >> is
>> >> the
>> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
>> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
>> >> and
>> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
>> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
>> >> the
>> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
>> >> So here are my 2 questions.
>> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
>> >> turned
>> >> out to be something else?
>> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone
>> >> have
>> >> a
>> >> suggestion?
>> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
>> >> rubber
>> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
>> >> the
>> >> plenum...
>> >>
>> >> Thoughts, comments?
>> >>
>> >> Rich Harris

 

What are you using for a heater blower motor?

Ok, are you the person I think with the link to cutting the blower motor
hole for the big GM blower motor before I go into how much better it
is??

Mike


Rich wrote:
>
> Wow! Thanks Mike. I didn't know that. I'll change gears on that real quick.
> I actually have changed my mind and am going to rip the whole ventilation
> system out, take it apart and regasket/seal everything. I might as well do
> it right than have to do it again in a year. My old CJ is around to stay.
> I've been an off and on reader/poster here for about 8 or 10 years but
> lately I've just lost interest with all the junk that comes onboard. Glad to
> see some of the old posters are still around.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45A3BA80.1C94ED67@sympatico.ca...
> > There was a reason I mentioned butyl caulk...
> >
> > Unfortunately GE silicone cures for years while putting out acetic acid
> > fumes. When these fumes contact water, they eat steel. They eat it
> > really well. I have seen more vinyl tops that were repaired with
> > silicone peel the whole roof off when a real repair was finally needed
> > than not. Same for windshields, the whole frame edge come out with the
> > glass if installed with silicone.
> >
> > Someone on this group was involved in testing the outgassing of silicone
> > for the space program, and it failed due to never stopping to outgas.
> >
> > The acetic acid fumes will also 'instantly' kill an O2 sensor. I know
> > folks that have fried the O2 sensor by just using silicone on the front
> > differential cover.
> >
> > They do make some types of RTV silicone that is 'sensor safe' now a
> > days.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Rich wrote:
> >>
> >> I went and looked again and also found the holes where the vent cover
> >> screws
> >> go in are leaking. I got a tube of GE silicon 2 outdoor sealant and
> >> gouped
> >> the screws and the seams. Once it dries I'll give it another test. Right
> >> now
> >> I have the dash completely off which made it easier to check for leaks.
> >> If
> >> this doesn't work, the whole shooting match is coming out and I'm going
> >> to
> >> reseal everything down to the knat's ***. It will be a real pain but I'm
> >> thinking it will be the best solution. The windshield rubber is
> >> relatively
> >> new and is holding fine. I have a good seal there.
> >>
> >> Also when I'm done I'll post pics of the new dashboard. I though it
> >> would
> >> be a piece of cake, but making sure everything is arranged so it can be
> >> seen
> >> AND fit within the constraints of the stuff behind the dash is proving to
> >> be
> >> a challenge.
> >> I'm going to make a cardboard mock-up before actually cutting metal.
> >>
> >> ThanksMike,
> >> Rich
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:45A2DC6E.32B5EEE8@sympatico.ca...
> >> >I would go for a small can of roofing membrane, the one you can roll or
> >> > brush on. maybe as a second choice, some butyl caulk I could maybe get
> >> > my finger to ------ on the seam from the top.
> >> >
> >> > Other than that, the windshield or it's frame gasket can leak into the
> >> > defrost duct....
> >> >
> >> > The windshield frame gasket can also leak down the back of the dash.
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >> >
> >> > Rich wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Guys, need an idea here. MY CJ is getting progressively worse about
> >> >> leaking
> >> >> water through the ventilation system when it rains. The drain is clear
> >> >> (I've
> >> >> checked and cleared it a bunch of times.). I have found what I think
> >> >> is
> >> >> the
> >> >> problem but the cure is going to be a PITA.
> >> >> The airbox above the heater has a seam running around it where the top
> >> >> and
> >> >> bottom halves meet. It looks like water is leaking in from between the
> >> >> halves. I had my daughter run the hose outside while I checked it from
> >> >> the
> >> >> inside and I'm 98% sure that is the source.
> >> >> So here are my 2 questions.
> >> >> 1. Has anyone ever had this problem before or something like it that
> >> >> turned
> >> >> out to be something else?
> >> >> 2. Without tearing everything out above the heater assy, does anyone
> >> >> have
> >> >> a
> >> >> suggestion?
> >> >> I've thought of going to home despot and buying some flexible
> >> >> rubber
> >> >> membrane roof sheathing then using it to seal the seams from inside
> >> >> the
> >> >> plenum...
> >> >>
> >> >> Thoughts, comments?
> >> >>
> >> >> Rich Harris