Will Honea

On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 23:02:48 UTC Lon <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Fred W. proclaimed:
> > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > news:ZuydnXLpeIr7RYHcRVn-vg@magma.ca...
> >
> >>Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> >>Thanks in advance
> >>Frank
> >
> >
> > The idea here is that the amount of cold engine wear with the engine sitting
> > idling (think low oil pump pressure) is worse for the engine than if you
> > start to drive right away where you get some additional pump pressure to
> > move the thickened oil. Obviously, the thinner the oil stays at low temps
> > the better. Obviously, you take it easy until the oil comes up to temp.
> > Also, remember that the oil is slower to warm than the coolant, so don't
> > just go by the temp gauge in the dash (unless you have an oil temp gauge
> > too)
> >
> > Even though -15 is not all that cold, you could use synthetic oil,
> > especially one with a smaller first number, such as Mobil1 0w40, and this
> > will stay far thinner than even 5W30 conventional oil.
>
>
> 'nother issue is that if you idle the vehicle until the engine is
> warmed up, your suspension, axles, transfer case, and transmission
> are all still cold. Moving off right after the start and simply
> taking it easy warms all the pieces up together.

Sounds good, but 'taint always that easy. I had an old Scout
(4-banger) when I was stationed up in Wisconsin that was a good case
in point. Now, the fancy multi-grade gear oils were hard to come by
in the late 60's so that bitchin cold winter saw a routine like this
when it hit 35 below a few times:

Clutch in, hope to get the engine to fire without flooding (if it
floods, it's all over until you pull the plugs and defrost them).
Engine running, tranny in neutral, rev the engine up to a really fast
idle and left the clutch out SLOWLY. May have to feather it in and
out a few time to stir the tranny up enough to turn over. Sit there
until it idles with the clutch out in neutral.

Clutch in, transfer case to neutral, shift to reverse (highest ratio
in the old 3-spd). Repeat the above step until it idles in reverse
with the tc in neutral. Then go thru the gears to sling some of the
gum off the rotating parts.

Now comes the real fun. I was fortunate enough to have the twin stick
tc so I had 2wd low range available, which made it easier. Low range,
first gear or reverse (reverse was better) race hell out of the engine
and try to break the rear diff and wheels loose enough to move. Works
best if you head downhill. I had a block heater that actually worked,
but getting the gears to turn was a real challenge. I finally solved
the problem, tho: I moved to where it didn't get that cold.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 23:02:48 UTC Lon <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Fred W. proclaimed:
> > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > news:ZuydnXLpeIr7RYHcRVn-vg@magma.ca...
> >
> >>Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> >>Thanks in advance
> >>Frank
> >
> >
> > The idea here is that the amount of cold engine wear with the engine sitting
> > idling (think low oil pump pressure) is worse for the engine than if you
> > start to drive right away where you get some additional pump pressure to
> > move the thickened oil. Obviously, the thinner the oil stays at low temps
> > the better. Obviously, you take it easy until the oil comes up to temp.
> > Also, remember that the oil is slower to warm than the coolant, so don't
> > just go by the temp gauge in the dash (unless you have an oil temp gauge
> > too)
> >
> > Even though -15 is not all that cold, you could use synthetic oil,
> > especially one with a smaller first number, such as Mobil1 0w40, and this
> > will stay far thinner than even 5W30 conventional oil.
>
>
> 'nother issue is that if you idle the vehicle until the engine is
> warmed up, your suspension, axles, transfer case, and transmission
> are all still cold. Moving off right after the start and simply
> taking it easy warms all the pieces up together.

Sounds good, but 'taint always that easy. I had an old Scout
(4-banger) when I was stationed up in Wisconsin that was a good case
in point. Now, the fancy multi-grade gear oils were hard to come by
in the late 60's so that bitchin cold winter saw a routine like this
when it hit 35 below a few times:

Clutch in, hope to get the engine to fire without flooding (if it
floods, it's all over until you pull the plugs and defrost them).
Engine running, tranny in neutral, rev the engine up to a really fast
idle and left the clutch out SLOWLY. May have to feather it in and
out a few time to stir the tranny up enough to turn over. Sit there
until it idles with the clutch out in neutral.

Clutch in, transfer case to neutral, shift to reverse (highest ratio
in the old 3-spd). Repeat the above step until it idles in reverse
with the tc in neutral. Then go thru the gears to sling some of the
gum off the rotating parts.

Now comes the real fun. I was fortunate enough to have the twin stick
tc so I had 2wd low range available, which made it easier. Low range,
first gear or reverse (reverse was better) race hell out of the engine
and try to break the rear diff and wheels loose enough to move. Works
best if you head downhill. I had a block heater that actually worked,
but getting the gears to turn was a real challenge. I finally solved
the problem, tho: I moved to where it didn't get that cold.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 23:02:48 UTC Lon <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Fred W. proclaimed:
> > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > news:ZuydnXLpeIr7RYHcRVn-vg@magma.ca...
> >
> >>Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> >>Thanks in advance
> >>Frank
> >
> >
> > The idea here is that the amount of cold engine wear with the engine sitting
> > idling (think low oil pump pressure) is worse for the engine than if you
> > start to drive right away where you get some additional pump pressure to
> > move the thickened oil. Obviously, the thinner the oil stays at low temps
> > the better. Obviously, you take it easy until the oil comes up to temp.
> > Also, remember that the oil is slower to warm than the coolant, so don't
> > just go by the temp gauge in the dash (unless you have an oil temp gauge
> > too)
> >
> > Even though -15 is not all that cold, you could use synthetic oil,
> > especially one with a smaller first number, such as Mobil1 0w40, and this
> > will stay far thinner than even 5W30 conventional oil.
>
>
> 'nother issue is that if you idle the vehicle until the engine is
> warmed up, your suspension, axles, transfer case, and transmission
> are all still cold. Moving off right after the start and simply
> taking it easy warms all the pieces up together.

Sounds good, but 'taint always that easy. I had an old Scout
(4-banger) when I was stationed up in Wisconsin that was a good case
in point. Now, the fancy multi-grade gear oils were hard to come by
in the late 60's so that bitchin cold winter saw a routine like this
when it hit 35 below a few times:

Clutch in, hope to get the engine to fire without flooding (if it
floods, it's all over until you pull the plugs and defrost them).
Engine running, tranny in neutral, rev the engine up to a really fast
idle and left the clutch out SLOWLY. May have to feather it in and
out a few time to stir the tranny up enough to turn over. Sit there
until it idles with the clutch out in neutral.

Clutch in, transfer case to neutral, shift to reverse (highest ratio
in the old 3-spd). Repeat the above step until it idles in reverse
with the tc in neutral. Then go thru the gears to sling some of the
gum off the rotating parts.

Now comes the real fun. I was fortunate enough to have the twin stick
tc so I had 2wd low range available, which made it easier. Low range,
first gear or reverse (reverse was better) race hell out of the engine
and try to break the rear diff and wheels loose enough to move. Works
best if you head downhill. I had a block heater that actually worked,
but getting the gears to turn was a real challenge. I finally solved
the problem, tho: I moved to where it didn't get that cold.

--
Will Honea

Eric Shade

What do you mean way up in Wisconsin? Depends where in Wisconsin, though I
suppose. I was born and raised in the U.P. and am now trapped in Indiana,
but I miss those cold winters (sounds funny), I also miss my dad's old IH
Scout (65). Cranking out 90 HP but pushing an 8 1/2 foot snow plow. Those
were the days. Where in Wisconsin were you? I lived in Wisconsin it was in
Park Falls, WI. Born and raised in Escanaba, MI though.

> Sounds good, but 'taint always that easy. I had an old Scout
> (4-banger) when I was stationed up in Wisconsin that was a good case
> in point. Now, the fancy multi-grade gear oils were hard to come by
> in the late 60's so that bitchin cold winter saw a routine like this
> when it hit 35 below a few times:
>
> Clutch in, hope to get the engine to fire without flooding (if it
> floods, it's all over until you pull the plugs and defrost them).
> Engine running, tranny in neutral, rev the engine up to a really fast
> idle and left the clutch out SLOWLY. May have to feather it in and
> out a few time to stir the tranny up enough to turn over. Sit there
> until it idles with the clutch out in neutral.
>
> Clutch in, transfer case to neutral, shift to reverse (highest ratio
> in the old 3-spd). Repeat the above step until it idles in reverse
> with the tc in neutral. Then go thru the gears to sling some of the
> gum off the rotating parts.
>
> Now comes the real fun. I was fortunate enough to have the twin stick
> tc so I had 2wd low range available, which made it easier. Low range,
> first gear or reverse (reverse was better) race hell out of the engine
> and try to break the rear diff and wheels loose enough to move. Works
> best if you head downhill. I had a block heater that actually worked,
> but getting the gears to turn was a real challenge. I finally solved
> the problem, tho: I moved to where it didn't get that cold.
>
> --
> Will Honea

Eric Shade

What do you mean way up in Wisconsin? Depends where in Wisconsin, though I
suppose. I was born and raised in the U.P. and am now trapped in Indiana,
but I miss those cold winters (sounds funny), I also miss my dad's old IH
Scout (65). Cranking out 90 HP but pushing an 8 1/2 foot snow plow. Those
were the days. Where in Wisconsin were you? I lived in Wisconsin it was in
Park Falls, WI. Born and raised in Escanaba, MI though.

> Sounds good, but 'taint always that easy. I had an old Scout
> (4-banger) when I was stationed up in Wisconsin that was a good case
> in point. Now, the fancy multi-grade gear oils were hard to come by
> in the late 60's so that bitchin cold winter saw a routine like this
> when it hit 35 below a few times:
>
> Clutch in, hope to get the engine to fire without flooding (if it
> floods, it's all over until you pull the plugs and defrost them).
> Engine running, tranny in neutral, rev the engine up to a really fast
> idle and left the clutch out SLOWLY. May have to feather it in and
> out a few time to stir the tranny up enough to turn over. Sit there
> until it idles with the clutch out in neutral.
>
> Clutch in, transfer case to neutral, shift to reverse (highest ratio
> in the old 3-spd). Repeat the above step until it idles in reverse
> with the tc in neutral. Then go thru the gears to sling some of the
> gum off the rotating parts.
>
> Now comes the real fun. I was fortunate enough to have the twin stick
> tc so I had 2wd low range available, which made it easier. Low range,
> first gear or reverse (reverse was better) race hell out of the engine
> and try to break the rear diff and wheels loose enough to move. Works
> best if you head downhill. I had a block heater that actually worked,
> but getting the gears to turn was a real challenge. I finally solved
> the problem, tho: I moved to where it didn't get that cold.
>
> --
> Will Honea

Eric Shade

What do you mean way up in Wisconsin? Depends where in Wisconsin, though I
suppose. I was born and raised in the U.P. and am now trapped in Indiana,
but I miss those cold winters (sounds funny), I also miss my dad's old IH
Scout (65). Cranking out 90 HP but pushing an 8 1/2 foot snow plow. Those
were the days. Where in Wisconsin were you? I lived in Wisconsin it was in
Park Falls, WI. Born and raised in Escanaba, MI though.

> Sounds good, but 'taint always that easy. I had an old Scout
> (4-banger) when I was stationed up in Wisconsin that was a good case
> in point. Now, the fancy multi-grade gear oils were hard to come by
> in the late 60's so that bitchin cold winter saw a routine like this
> when it hit 35 below a few times:
>
> Clutch in, hope to get the engine to fire without flooding (if it
> floods, it's all over until you pull the plugs and defrost them).
> Engine running, tranny in neutral, rev the engine up to a really fast
> idle and left the clutch out SLOWLY. May have to feather it in and
> out a few time to stir the tranny up enough to turn over. Sit there
> until it idles with the clutch out in neutral.
>
> Clutch in, transfer case to neutral, shift to reverse (highest ratio
> in the old 3-spd). Repeat the above step until it idles in reverse
> with the tc in neutral. Then go thru the gears to sling some of the
> gum off the rotating parts.
>
> Now comes the real fun. I was fortunate enough to have the twin stick
> tc so I had 2wd low range available, which made it easier. Low range,
> first gear or reverse (reverse was better) race hell out of the engine
> and try to break the rear diff and wheels loose enough to move. Works
> best if you head downhill. I had a block heater that actually worked,
> but getting the gears to turn was a real challenge. I finally solved
> the problem, tho: I moved to where it didn't get that cold.
>
> --
> Will Honea

Eric Shade

What do you mean way up in Wisconsin? Depends where in Wisconsin, though I
suppose. I was born and raised in the U.P. and am now trapped in Indiana,
but I miss those cold winters (sounds funny), I also miss my dad's old IH
Scout (65). Cranking out 90 HP but pushing an 8 1/2 foot snow plow. Those
were the days. Where in Wisconsin were you? I lived in Wisconsin it was in
Park Falls, WI. Born and raised in Escanaba, MI though.

> Sounds good, but 'taint always that easy. I had an old Scout
> (4-banger) when I was stationed up in Wisconsin that was a good case
> in point. Now, the fancy multi-grade gear oils were hard to come by
> in the late 60's so that bitchin cold winter saw a routine like this
> when it hit 35 below a few times:
>
> Clutch in, hope to get the engine to fire without flooding (if it
> floods, it's all over until you pull the plugs and defrost them).
> Engine running, tranny in neutral, rev the engine up to a really fast
> idle and left the clutch out SLOWLY. May have to feather it in and
> out a few time to stir the tranny up enough to turn over. Sit there
> until it idles with the clutch out in neutral.
>
> Clutch in, transfer case to neutral, shift to reverse (highest ratio
> in the old 3-spd). Repeat the above step until it idles in reverse
> with the tc in neutral. Then go thru the gears to sling some of the
> gum off the rotating parts.
>
> Now comes the real fun. I was fortunate enough to have the twin stick
> tc so I had 2wd low range available, which made it easier. Low range,
> first gear or reverse (reverse was better) race hell out of the engine
> and try to break the rear diff and wheels loose enough to move. Works
> best if you head downhill. I had a block heater that actually worked,
> but getting the gears to turn was a real challenge. I finally solved
> the problem, tho: I moved to where it didn't get that cold.
>
> --
> Will Honea

Matt Macchiarolo

Ya bill, you get a lot of -35 degree days in February, don't you?
:-)

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:411D52C6.15E25653@***.net...
> Well, I like to keep my cars, without having to work on them, the
> heads have never been off my '78 Bronco with over three hundred thousand
> miles, nor '89 Thunderbird, with over two hundred and fifty thousand
> miles.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > Well, I've also seen over 200 truckers stalled in parking lots and
> > beside the road in 800 miles of westbound I-80 because they were so
> > cheap that they thought they could get by with #2 diesel in cold
> > weather. And the truckers that left their engines running, they would
> > stall on the on-ramps or 1/4 mile onto the freeway when the sludge they
> > were burning hit the injectors. Nary a one on eastbound, guess those
> > northern guys have more respect for their equipment. But what do I know
> > about big trucks?
> >
> > As for FI automobile engines, 1500 rpm at 20 mph is just enough load to
> > keep the engine from racing too fast under fast idle conditions.

Matt Macchiarolo

Ya bill, you get a lot of -35 degree days in February, don't you?
:-)

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:411D52C6.15E25653@***.net...
> Well, I like to keep my cars, without having to work on them, the
> heads have never been off my '78 Bronco with over three hundred thousand
> miles, nor '89 Thunderbird, with over two hundred and fifty thousand
> miles.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > Well, I've also seen over 200 truckers stalled in parking lots and
> > beside the road in 800 miles of westbound I-80 because they were so
> > cheap that they thought they could get by with #2 diesel in cold
> > weather. And the truckers that left their engines running, they would
> > stall on the on-ramps or 1/4 mile onto the freeway when the sludge they
> > were burning hit the injectors. Nary a one on eastbound, guess those
> > northern guys have more respect for their equipment. But what do I know
> > about big trucks?
> >
> > As for FI automobile engines, 1500 rpm at 20 mph is just enough load to
> > keep the engine from racing too fast under fast idle conditions.

Matt Macchiarolo

Ya bill, you get a lot of -35 degree days in February, don't you?
:-)

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:411D52C6.15E25653@***.net...
> Well, I like to keep my cars, without having to work on them, the
> heads have never been off my '78 Bronco with over three hundred thousand
> miles, nor '89 Thunderbird, with over two hundred and fifty thousand
> miles.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > Well, I've also seen over 200 truckers stalled in parking lots and
> > beside the road in 800 miles of westbound I-80 because they were so
> > cheap that they thought they could get by with #2 diesel in cold
> > weather. And the truckers that left their engines running, they would
> > stall on the on-ramps or 1/4 mile onto the freeway when the sludge they
> > were burning hit the injectors. Nary a one on eastbound, guess those
> > northern guys have more respect for their equipment. But what do I know
> > about big trucks?
> >
> > As for FI automobile engines, 1500 rpm at 20 mph is just enough load to
> > keep the engine from racing too fast under fast idle conditions.