Typical Dealer Service
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
I've got to try that with my offspring!
> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
> "those damned theives...".
> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
> "those damned theives...".
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
I've got to try that with my offspring!
> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
> "those damned theives...".
> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
> "those damned theives...".
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
I've got to try that with my offspring!
> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
> "those damned theives...".
> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
> "those damned theives...".
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
It 'was' low foot pedal related and seems to have gone away since the
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
It 'was' low foot pedal related and seems to have gone away since the
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
It 'was' low foot pedal related and seems to have gone away since the
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
It 'was' low foot pedal related and seems to have gone away since the
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
inspection.
Good point on the e-brake lever though seeing as the cable is busted.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "flashing" Release and pull your emergency brake paddle back
> another knock.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Tell me about it!
> >
> > My wife just called after she took our Cherokee in for a 'free' brake
> > inspection because the light is flashing and the damn lug nuts are on
> > too tight for her to get them off and I am not physically able to turn
> > the wrench.
> >
> > A flashing brake light means a pressure mis match or pedal travel issue.
> >
> > I 'know' the pads and shoes are less than 1 year old with very low km on
> > them as well as I changed the master a year ago.
> >
> > They told her she needs all new pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers and
> > wheel cylinders to the tune of a thousand bucks!!!!
> >
> > ******** even missed the busted e-brake cable in their estimate. That
> > is the only 'really' broken part for sure....
> >
> > Calipers are sticky they say. Need new instead of just greasing the
> > slides. Jerks...
> >
> > The did 'not' identify the 'cause' of the flashing brake light which is
> > why she took it in.....
> >
> > I'll bet money I find another pad or shoe separated from the metal
> > backing plate which pushes in the wheel cylinder causing the pedal to
> > move too far on the first pump just like last time.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 15:20:43 GMT, in rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, RoyJ
<spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
>> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
>> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
>> "those damned theives...".
>I've got to try that with my offspring!
Just recently, My better half complained her Dodge auto had a squeaky
brakes on the left front. I told her to take it to the shop for an
"evaluation". This same shop redid the front brakes last summer in the last
week of August.
The Results was both front and rear brakes needed redone, and new rotors on
the front. The rotors were going to cost $87 each and $35/per set of Pads.
Machining of the new rotors was going to be $26. The rear Brakes were $23
bucks each Plus turning the drums at $26. Plus new brake springs for the
Rear was $9.50 each wheel and $17 for a front caliper kit for each of the
front calipers. Labor was another $345.
Total cost was going to be: $733.00
The results: They lost a client which had been a steady buyer for the last
35 years. I also had recommended them to maybe a hundred other people in
last few years.
Total cost for me to do the job... 197 bucks and 30 minutes per wheel.
I also found out they had lost a lug nut and put on a odd sized lugnut
which didn't fit the lug wrench.
They were upset when I called and told them to find the proper sized
lugnut. Or I would go to the bother of reporting them to the State
Mechanical inspectors office, for changing out or substitution of parts
differing from OEM standards without informing me of it.
I decided I would again be doing most of the light mechanical/brake work on
her auto and My Jeep.
--
Aktohdi
<spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
>> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
>> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
>> "those damned theives...".
>I've got to try that with my offspring!
Just recently, My better half complained her Dodge auto had a squeaky
brakes on the left front. I told her to take it to the shop for an
"evaluation". This same shop redid the front brakes last summer in the last
week of August.
The Results was both front and rear brakes needed redone, and new rotors on
the front. The rotors were going to cost $87 each and $35/per set of Pads.
Machining of the new rotors was going to be $26. The rear Brakes were $23
bucks each Plus turning the drums at $26. Plus new brake springs for the
Rear was $9.50 each wheel and $17 for a front caliper kit for each of the
front calipers. Labor was another $345.
Total cost was going to be: $733.00
The results: They lost a client which had been a steady buyer for the last
35 years. I also had recommended them to maybe a hundred other people in
last few years.
Total cost for me to do the job... 197 bucks and 30 minutes per wheel.
I also found out they had lost a lug nut and put on a odd sized lugnut
which didn't fit the lug wrench.
They were upset when I called and told them to find the proper sized
lugnut. Or I would go to the bother of reporting them to the State
Mechanical inspectors office, for changing out or substitution of parts
differing from OEM standards without informing me of it.
I decided I would again be doing most of the light mechanical/brake work on
her auto and My Jeep.
--
Aktohdi
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 15:20:43 GMT, in rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, RoyJ
<spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
>> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
>> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
>> "those damned theives...".
>I've got to try that with my offspring!
Just recently, My better half complained her Dodge auto had a squeaky
brakes on the left front. I told her to take it to the shop for an
"evaluation". This same shop redid the front brakes last summer in the last
week of August.
The Results was both front and rear brakes needed redone, and new rotors on
the front. The rotors were going to cost $87 each and $35/per set of Pads.
Machining of the new rotors was going to be $26. The rear Brakes were $23
bucks each Plus turning the drums at $26. Plus new brake springs for the
Rear was $9.50 each wheel and $17 for a front caliper kit for each of the
front calipers. Labor was another $345.
Total cost was going to be: $733.00
The results: They lost a client which had been a steady buyer for the last
35 years. I also had recommended them to maybe a hundred other people in
last few years.
Total cost for me to do the job... 197 bucks and 30 minutes per wheel.
I also found out they had lost a lug nut and put on a odd sized lugnut
which didn't fit the lug wrench.
They were upset when I called and told them to find the proper sized
lugnut. Or I would go to the bother of reporting them to the State
Mechanical inspectors office, for changing out or substitution of parts
differing from OEM standards without informing me of it.
I decided I would again be doing most of the light mechanical/brake work on
her auto and My Jeep.
--
Aktohdi
<spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
>> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
>> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
>> "those damned theives...".
>I've got to try that with my offspring!
Just recently, My better half complained her Dodge auto had a squeaky
brakes on the left front. I told her to take it to the shop for an
"evaluation". This same shop redid the front brakes last summer in the last
week of August.
The Results was both front and rear brakes needed redone, and new rotors on
the front. The rotors were going to cost $87 each and $35/per set of Pads.
Machining of the new rotors was going to be $26. The rear Brakes were $23
bucks each Plus turning the drums at $26. Plus new brake springs for the
Rear was $9.50 each wheel and $17 for a front caliper kit for each of the
front calipers. Labor was another $345.
Total cost was going to be: $733.00
The results: They lost a client which had been a steady buyer for the last
35 years. I also had recommended them to maybe a hundred other people in
last few years.
Total cost for me to do the job... 197 bucks and 30 minutes per wheel.
I also found out they had lost a lug nut and put on a odd sized lugnut
which didn't fit the lug wrench.
They were upset when I called and told them to find the proper sized
lugnut. Or I would go to the bother of reporting them to the State
Mechanical inspectors office, for changing out or substitution of parts
differing from OEM standards without informing me of it.
I decided I would again be doing most of the light mechanical/brake work on
her auto and My Jeep.
--
Aktohdi
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Typical Dealer Service
On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 15:20:43 GMT, in rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, RoyJ
<spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
>> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
>> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
>> "those damned theives...".
>I've got to try that with my offspring!
Just recently, My better half complained her Dodge auto had a squeaky
brakes on the left front. I told her to take it to the shop for an
"evaluation". This same shop redid the front brakes last summer in the last
week of August.
The Results was both front and rear brakes needed redone, and new rotors on
the front. The rotors were going to cost $87 each and $35/per set of Pads.
Machining of the new rotors was going to be $26. The rear Brakes were $23
bucks each Plus turning the drums at $26. Plus new brake springs for the
Rear was $9.50 each wheel and $17 for a front caliper kit for each of the
front calipers. Labor was another $345.
Total cost was going to be: $733.00
The results: They lost a client which had been a steady buyer for the last
35 years. I also had recommended them to maybe a hundred other people in
last few years.
Total cost for me to do the job... 197 bucks and 30 minutes per wheel.
I also found out they had lost a lug nut and put on a odd sized lugnut
which didn't fit the lug wrench.
They were upset when I called and told them to find the proper sized
lugnut. Or I would go to the bother of reporting them to the State
Mechanical inspectors office, for changing out or substitution of parts
differing from OEM standards without informing me of it.
I decided I would again be doing most of the light mechanical/brake work on
her auto and My Jeep.
--
Aktohdi
<spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:
>> I made it a point to send my daughter in for a 'free' inspection a
>> while back then took her with me when I bought the parts she needed
>> for all 4 wheels. As she paid the bill she kept muttering about
>> "those damned theives...".
>I've got to try that with my offspring!
Just recently, My better half complained her Dodge auto had a squeaky
brakes on the left front. I told her to take it to the shop for an
"evaluation". This same shop redid the front brakes last summer in the last
week of August.
The Results was both front and rear brakes needed redone, and new rotors on
the front. The rotors were going to cost $87 each and $35/per set of Pads.
Machining of the new rotors was going to be $26. The rear Brakes were $23
bucks each Plus turning the drums at $26. Plus new brake springs for the
Rear was $9.50 each wheel and $17 for a front caliper kit for each of the
front calipers. Labor was another $345.
Total cost was going to be: $733.00
The results: They lost a client which had been a steady buyer for the last
35 years. I also had recommended them to maybe a hundred other people in
last few years.
Total cost for me to do the job... 197 bucks and 30 minutes per wheel.
I also found out they had lost a lug nut and put on a odd sized lugnut
which didn't fit the lug wrench.
They were upset when I called and told them to find the proper sized
lugnut. Or I would go to the bother of reporting them to the State
Mechanical inspectors office, for changing out or substitution of parts
differing from OEM standards without informing me of it.
I decided I would again be doing most of the light mechanical/brake work on
her auto and My Jeep.
--
Aktohdi