Lee Ayrton

I dunno if this will help, but on the odd chance that it will, this is
from the Painless Wiring manual for my `79 harness where it connects to my
signal switch. Yours might be the same (the Painless harnesses are
_generally_ the same as the OEM, but not always).

Pink (14ga) Emer. Flasher B+
Red/White Turn Signal Flasher B+
Black/White Horn relay
Lt. Green Rt. Rear Turn lamp
Lt. Green/Black Lt. Rear Turn lamp
Green Rt. Front Turn lamp
Pink (16ga) Brake Switch
Green/Black LT. Front Turn lamp

If this chart is true for your Jeep, you might try pulling the connector
apart at the bottom of the steering column and feeding B+ directly to the
wire for the Rt. rear lamp to see if it lights. I'm guessing that you can
connect up a new switch and test it before pulling your column apart.

As I recall, I had trouble feeding the new switch harness through my
column. You might consider attaching a bit of scrap wire to the old
connector before pulling it to give you something to fish the new one back
down.

Good luck.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004, Ben Black wrote:

> Yah, I don't doubt that it'll be a real pain. I've gone through all of the
> other options, though. None of the rest of the potential problems seem to
> be able to explain both of the problems. I've traced the problem into the
> dash/column using a volt meter and a resistance gague. I think that the
> switch in the column is the only thing left that could be causing the
> problems, and as I said, this problem explains both of the lights being out.
> My horn also stopped working recently, and this should give me an
> opportunity to trace that problem back into the steering column (I've
> already gone through taking off the top of the steering wheel and making
> sure all of the contacts are clean). Thanks for your help. Wish me luck
> with the teardown and rebuild.
> ~Ben
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:403A7632.FD87B377@***.net...
> > Hi Ben,
> > If there's no power to the tail light socket, on braking, or
> > signaling. Make doubly sure with a volt meter grounded to frame, because
> > it no fun going into the column. Similar to this Chevy:
> > http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel01.htm Ninety
> > nine percent of the switch failures are due to an electrical short so,
> > find that first.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Ben Black wrote:
> > >
> > > I've checked the grounding. That's not the problem. I think that Lee
> > > nailed the problem in the above posting.
> > >
> > > So the final opinion is that the problem is in the column. Thanks for
> all
> > > of the help!
> > >
> > > ~Ben
>
>
>

Lee Ayrton

I dunno if this will help, but on the odd chance that it will, this is
from the Painless Wiring manual for my `79 harness where it connects to my
signal switch. Yours might be the same (the Painless harnesses are
_generally_ the same as the OEM, but not always).

Pink (14ga) Emer. Flasher B+
Red/White Turn Signal Flasher B+
Black/White Horn relay
Lt. Green Rt. Rear Turn lamp
Lt. Green/Black Lt. Rear Turn lamp
Green Rt. Front Turn lamp
Pink (16ga) Brake Switch
Green/Black LT. Front Turn lamp

If this chart is true for your Jeep, you might try pulling the connector
apart at the bottom of the steering column and feeding B+ directly to the
wire for the Rt. rear lamp to see if it lights. I'm guessing that you can
connect up a new switch and test it before pulling your column apart.

As I recall, I had trouble feeding the new switch harness through my
column. You might consider attaching a bit of scrap wire to the old
connector before pulling it to give you something to fish the new one back
down.

Good luck.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004, Ben Black wrote:

> Yah, I don't doubt that it'll be a real pain. I've gone through all of the
> other options, though. None of the rest of the potential problems seem to
> be able to explain both of the problems. I've traced the problem into the
> dash/column using a volt meter and a resistance gague. I think that the
> switch in the column is the only thing left that could be causing the
> problems, and as I said, this problem explains both of the lights being out.
> My horn also stopped working recently, and this should give me an
> opportunity to trace that problem back into the steering column (I've
> already gone through taking off the top of the steering wheel and making
> sure all of the contacts are clean). Thanks for your help. Wish me luck
> with the teardown and rebuild.
> ~Ben
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:403A7632.FD87B377@***.net...
> > Hi Ben,
> > If there's no power to the tail light socket, on braking, or
> > signaling. Make doubly sure with a volt meter grounded to frame, because
> > it no fun going into the column. Similar to this Chevy:
> > http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel01.htm Ninety
> > nine percent of the switch failures are due to an electrical short so,
> > find that first.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Ben Black wrote:
> > >
> > > I've checked the grounding. That's not the problem. I think that Lee
> > > nailed the problem in the above posting.
> > >
> > > So the final opinion is that the problem is in the column. Thanks for
> all
> > > of the help!
> > >
> > > ~Ben
>
>
>