I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
question.

> > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> >
> > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > their observation?
> (Nate replied)
> 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> particularly good shape.
> > good luck>
> nate

 

My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
accessories.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Elflan wrote:
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?

 

My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
accessories.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Elflan wrote:
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?

 

That about says it all.

Or one could say 'how to fry a computer, alternator and likely stereo in
one easy lesson'.

Newer vehicles need a battery or things fry fast.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Elflan wrote:
>
> I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
> thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
> question.
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate

 

That about says it all.

Or one could say 'how to fry a computer, alternator and likely stereo in
one easy lesson'.

Newer vehicles need a battery or things fry fast.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Elflan wrote:
>
> I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
> thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
> question.
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate

 

Yep, that battery was as good as gone. You would have fried the suburbans
system after it started. Its alternator would have tried to charge a battery
that wasnt there and that isnt good.
KH

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F75AC26.C421A648@***.net...
> My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
> cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
> God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
> accessories.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Elflan wrote:
> >
> > > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying
to
> > > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I
am
> > > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > > >
> > > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank
an
> > > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying
to
> > > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to
offer
> > > > their observation?

 

Yep, that battery was as good as gone. You would have fried the suburbans
system after it started. Its alternator would have tried to charge a battery
that wasnt there and that isnt good.
KH

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F75AC26.C421A648@***.net...
> My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
> cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
> God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
> accessories.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Elflan wrote:
> >
> > > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying
to
> > > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I
am
> > > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > > >
> > > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank
an
> > > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying
to
> > > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to
offer
> > > > their observation?

 

A 10ga cable as long as your jumpers with just that piddly-assed clamp
for a connector will NOT carry the current the starter wants without
at least a little help from the battery, which you describe as being
effectively disconnected. You might note that jumping a totally
discharged battery (like leaving the headlights on all day) ususally
requires a couple of minutes to charge the "dead" battery before you
can start the engine - same result as you got but a couple of minutes
puts enough charge back in the dead battery to get a head start so it
can help with the start.

As others have said, just be thankful it didn't start!

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:11:00 UTC elflan@geocities.com (Elflan) wrote:

> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate


--
Will Honea

 

A 10ga cable as long as your jumpers with just that piddly-assed clamp
for a connector will NOT carry the current the starter wants without
at least a little help from the battery, which you describe as being
effectively disconnected. You might note that jumping a totally
discharged battery (like leaving the headlights on all day) ususally
requires a couple of minutes to charge the "dead" battery before you
can start the engine - same result as you got but a couple of minutes
puts enough charge back in the dead battery to get a head start so it
can help with the start.

As others have said, just be thankful it didn't start!

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:11:00 UTC elflan@geocities.com (Elflan) wrote:

> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate


--
Will Honea

 

Thanks for the information. Damn! I think I lucked out on this one after
all. I should've known better than to try jumping without a battery but
sometimes good intentions run right up against the Law Of Unintended
Consequences. I even had a cop stop to help and he didn't seem to think my
little idea was a bad one either but you either know what could happen or
you don't and both of us didn't! So thanks again for the help.
By the way, what's a good/better brand of jumper cables to get?