Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corroded completely off. Question?
09-27-2003, 11:11 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corroded completely off. Question?
I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
question.
> > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> >
> > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > their observation?
> (Nate replied)
> 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> particularly good shape.
> > good luck>
> nate
thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
question.
> > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> >
> > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > their observation?
> (Nate replied)
> 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> particularly good shape.
> > good luck>
> nate
09-27-2003, 11:26 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corrodedcompletely off. Question?
My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
accessories.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Elflan wrote:
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
accessories.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Elflan wrote:
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
09-27-2003, 11:26 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corrodedcompletely off. Question?
My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
accessories.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Elflan wrote:
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
accessories.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Elflan wrote:
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
09-27-2003, 11:44 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corrodedcompletely off. Question?
That about says it all.
Or one could say 'how to fry a computer, alternator and likely stereo in
one easy lesson'.
Newer vehicles need a battery or things fry fast.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Elflan wrote:
>
> I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
> thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
> question.
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
Or one could say 'how to fry a computer, alternator and likely stereo in
one easy lesson'.
Newer vehicles need a battery or things fry fast.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Elflan wrote:
>
> I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
> thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
> question.
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
09-27-2003, 11:44 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corrodedcompletely off. Question?
That about says it all.
Or one could say 'how to fry a computer, alternator and likely stereo in
one easy lesson'.
Newer vehicles need a battery or things fry fast.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Elflan wrote:
>
> I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
> thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
> question.
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
Or one could say 'how to fry a computer, alternator and likely stereo in
one easy lesson'.
Newer vehicles need a battery or things fry fast.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Elflan wrote:
>
> I posted this on alt.auto.tech and got an interesting answer but
> thought I'd see if any of our Jeep Illuminati could expand on this
> question.
>
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
09-27-2003, 11:46 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corroded completely off. Question?
Yep, that battery was as good as gone. You would have fried the suburbans
system after it started. Its alternator would have tried to charge a battery
that wasnt there and that isnt good.
KH
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F75AC26.C421A648@***.net...
> My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
> cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
> God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
> accessories.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Elflan wrote:
> >
> > > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying
to
> > > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I
am
> > > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > > >
> > > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank
an
> > > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying
to
> > > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to
offer
> > > > their observation?
system after it started. Its alternator would have tried to charge a battery
that wasnt there and that isnt good.
KH
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F75AC26.C421A648@***.net...
> My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
> cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
> God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
> accessories.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Elflan wrote:
> >
> > > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying
to
> > > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I
am
> > > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > > >
> > > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank
an
> > > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying
to
> > > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to
offer
> > > > their observation?
09-27-2003, 11:46 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corroded completely off. Question?
Yep, that battery was as good as gone. You would have fried the suburbans
system after it started. Its alternator would have tried to charge a battery
that wasnt there and that isnt good.
KH
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F75AC26.C421A648@***.net...
> My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
> cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
> God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
> accessories.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Elflan wrote:
> >
> > > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying
to
> > > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I
am
> > > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > > >
> > > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank
an
> > > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying
to
> > > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to
offer
> > > > their observation?
system after it started. Its alternator would have tried to charge a battery
that wasnt there and that isnt good.
KH
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F75AC26.C421A648@***.net...
> My first step would have been to fix the connection, be it a new
> cable or a battery if it's the terminal that's broken. You might thank
> God, that it didn't start and cook your alternator and all your
> accessories.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Elflan wrote:
> >
> > > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying
to
> > > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I
am
> > > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > > >
> > > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank
an
> > > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying
to
> > > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to
offer
> > > > their observation?
09-27-2003, 02:27 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corroded completely off. Question?
A 10ga cable as long as your jumpers with just that piddly-assed clamp
for a connector will NOT carry the current the starter wants without
at least a little help from the battery, which you describe as being
effectively disconnected. You might note that jumping a totally
discharged battery (like leaving the headlights on all day) ususally
requires a couple of minutes to charge the "dead" battery before you
can start the engine - same result as you got but a couple of minutes
puts enough charge back in the dead battery to get a head start so it
can help with the start.
As others have said, just be thankful it didn't start!
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:11:00 UTC elflan@geocities.com (Elflan) wrote:
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
--
Will Honea
for a connector will NOT carry the current the starter wants without
at least a little help from the battery, which you describe as being
effectively disconnected. You might note that jumping a totally
discharged battery (like leaving the headlights on all day) ususally
requires a couple of minutes to charge the "dead" battery before you
can start the engine - same result as you got but a couple of minutes
puts enough charge back in the dead battery to get a head start so it
can help with the start.
As others have said, just be thankful it didn't start!
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:11:00 UTC elflan@geocities.com (Elflan) wrote:
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
--
Will Honea
09-27-2003, 02:27 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corroded completely off. Question?
A 10ga cable as long as your jumpers with just that piddly-assed clamp
for a connector will NOT carry the current the starter wants without
at least a little help from the battery, which you describe as being
effectively disconnected. You might note that jumping a totally
discharged battery (like leaving the headlights on all day) ususally
requires a couple of minutes to charge the "dead" battery before you
can start the engine - same result as you got but a couple of minutes
puts enough charge back in the dead battery to get a head start so it
can help with the start.
As others have said, just be thankful it didn't start!
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:11:00 UTC elflan@geocities.com (Elflan) wrote:
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
--
Will Honea
for a connector will NOT carry the current the starter wants without
at least a little help from the battery, which you describe as being
effectively disconnected. You might note that jumping a totally
discharged battery (like leaving the headlights on all day) ususally
requires a couple of minutes to charge the "dead" battery before you
can start the engine - same result as you got but a couple of minutes
puts enough charge back in the dead battery to get a head start so it
can help with the start.
As others have said, just be thankful it didn't start!
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:11:00 UTC elflan@geocities.com (Elflan) wrote:
> > > I tried to jump start a Suburban tonight but I couldn't because the
> > > battery's side terminal post had separated completely from the
> > > battery. I hope I can convey this correctly. The positive cable is
> > > still attached tightly to the post bolt but where the post bolt goes
> > > into the side of the battery, it's broken completely off because of
> > > corrosion. I think my jumper cables are 10 gauge and I was trying to
> > > get a good clamp connection on just that loose Red(positive)starter
> > > cable. I was thinking that this was all I needed to do and once the
> > > motor turned over, the Suburban could be on it's way.
> > > After hooking everything up, the hood light would come on and the
> > > interior lights would light but I couldn't get the Suburban to turn
> > > over but once or twice before the starter would begin clicking. I
> > > tried repeatedly but never had enough juice to crank the motor. I am
> > > guessing my jumper cables just didn't provide enough current from my
> > > battery to make that big motor turn over.
> > >
> > > Could I have done anything else? I have heard you can put your
> > > positive jumper cable on the positive end on the Solenoid and crank an
> > > engine that way but I have never done it before. Would that have
> > > worked or would it not have made a difference?
> > > I realize a motor draws A LOT of current to crank and I was trying to
> > > feed this motor with my 10 guage jumper cables. Anybody want to offer
> > > their observation?
> > (Nate replied)
> > 10 gauge is nowhere near enough. Think about it, the battery cable to
> > the starter is usually 4 gauge minimum and only 40" long or less.
> > You've pretty much nailed the "problem" and the only real solution at
> > this point is a new battery. If you want to jump start it you'll need
> > heavier cables (I'm sure they're not actually 10 gauge, maybe 1/0?) but
> > depending on the year that may not be a good idea - electronics don't
> > like running without the battery to damp out the voltage fluctuations
> > from the alternator (the alternator doesn't put out filtered power, it's
> > just straight full wave rectified) and when you replace the battery you
> > may want to replace the positive cable as well - if the connection
> > corroded out of the battery, that end of the wire can't be in
> > particularly good shape.
> > > good luck>
> > nate
--
Will Honea
09-27-2003, 06:17 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tried to Jump start a Suburban, it's starter cable corroded completely off. Question?
Thanks for the information. Damn! I think I lucked out on this one after
all. I should've known better than to try jumping without a battery but
sometimes good intentions run right up against the Law Of Unintended
Consequences. I even had a cop stop to help and he didn't seem to think my
little idea was a bad one either but you either know what could happen or
you don't and both of us didn't! So thanks again for the help.
By the way, what's a good/better brand of jumper cables to get?
all. I should've known better than to try jumping without a battery but
sometimes good intentions run right up against the Law Of Unintended
Consequences. I even had a cop stop to help and he didn't seem to think my
little idea was a bad one either but you either know what could happen or
you don't and both of us didn't! So thanks again for the help.
By the way, what's a good/better brand of jumper cables to get?