Torque converter going bad?
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
<lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi all:
>
> Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
>
There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
V6.
HINT
It is not a V6.
> Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> green, I step
> on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> for about 5 seconds
> and the car would lurch and act normally.
>
> The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> it's hard shifting.
> He called his "buddy" but would not get
> him. He said the "Torque
> converter" is going bad. I also might need
> some trans work.
>
> Any advice?
>
> -J.
>
1 -- you need another shop.
2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
fluid you have (which is my advice).
I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
problems I was having.
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> > Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > > of fluid is restored.
> >
> > The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> > the torque converter.
> >
> > If it's water then draining is the only way.
> > http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
> >
> Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
> apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
> because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
> really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
> In psychology this is called "denial".
>
> I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
> torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
> of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
> your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
> service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
> manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
> give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
> fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
> torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
> fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.
>
> Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?
>
> Earle
>
I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> > Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > > of fluid is restored.
> >
> > The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> > the torque converter.
> >
> > If it's water then draining is the only way.
> > http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
> >
> Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
> apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
> because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
> really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
> In psychology this is called "denial".
>
> I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
> torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
> of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
> your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
> service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
> manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
> give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
> fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
> torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
> fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.
>
> Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?
>
> Earle
>
I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> > Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > > of fluid is restored.
> >
> > The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> > the torque converter.
> >
> > If it's water then draining is the only way.
> > http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
> >
> Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
> apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
> because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
> really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
> In psychology this is called "denial".
>
> I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
> torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
> of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
> your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
> service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
> manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
> give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
> fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
> torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
> fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.
>
> Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?
>
> Earle
>
I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> > Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > > of fluid is restored.
> >
> > The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> > the torque converter.
> >
> > If it's water then draining is the only way.
> > http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
> >
> Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
> apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
> because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
> really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
> In psychology this is called "denial".
>
> I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
> torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
> of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
> your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
> service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
> manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
> give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
> fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
> torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
> fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.
>
> Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?
>
> Earle
>
I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> > Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > > of fluid is restored.
> >
> > The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> > the torque converter.
> >
> > If it's water then draining is the only way.
> > http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
> >
> Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
> apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
> because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
> really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
> In psychology this is called "denial".
>
> I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
> torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
> of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
> your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
> service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
> manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
> give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
> fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
> torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
> fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.
>
> Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?
>
> Earle
>
I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> > Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > > of fluid is restored.
> >
> > The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> > the torque converter.
> >
> > If it's water then draining is the only way.
> > http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
> >
> Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
> apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
> because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
> really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
> In psychology this is called "denial".
>
> I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
> torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
> of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
> your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
> service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
> manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
> give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
> fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
> torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
> fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.
>
> Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?
>
> Earle
>
I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
> the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
I can see the point in that. Especially if your going to get the transmission
wet frequently. Any bits of metal left over from drilling would be my worry.
Guess they flush out easily enough when all the ATF fluid drains all over. :)
--
DougW
> I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
> the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
I can see the point in that. Especially if your going to get the transmission
wet frequently. Any bits of metal left over from drilling would be my worry.
Guess they flush out easily enough when all the ATF fluid drains all over. :)
--
DougW
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
> the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
I can see the point in that. Especially if your going to get the transmission
wet frequently. Any bits of metal left over from drilling would be my worry.
Guess they flush out easily enough when all the ATF fluid drains all over. :)
--
DougW
> I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
> the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
I can see the point in that. Especially if your going to get the transmission
wet frequently. Any bits of metal left over from drilling would be my worry.
Guess they flush out easily enough when all the ATF fluid drains all over. :)
--
DougW
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
> the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
I can see the point in that. Especially if your going to get the transmission
wet frequently. Any bits of metal left over from drilling would be my worry.
Guess they flush out easily enough when all the ATF fluid drains all over. :)
--
DougW
> I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into
> the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.
I can see the point in that. Especially if your going to get the transmission
wet frequently. Any bits of metal left over from drilling would be my worry.
Guess they flush out easily enough when all the ATF fluid drains all over. :)
--
DougW
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Hi:
Then I have a straight 6. What is that/ I know dumb question...
I wil ask him to flush the transmission and see if it helps.
Thanks,
-John
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi all:
> >
> > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> >
>
>
> There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
> V6.
>
> HINT
> It is not a V6.
>
>
>
>
> > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> > green, I step
> > on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> > for about 5 seconds
> > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> >
> > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> > it's hard shifting.
> > He called his "buddy" but would not get
> > him. He said the "Torque
> > converter" is going bad. I also might need
> > some trans work.
> >
> > Any advice?
> >
> > -J.
> >
>
>
> 1 -- you need another shop.
>
> 2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
> fluid you have (which is my advice).
>
> I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
> a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
> problems I was having.
Then I have a straight 6. What is that/ I know dumb question...
I wil ask him to flush the transmission and see if it helps.
Thanks,
-John
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi all:
> >
> > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> >
>
>
> There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
> V6.
>
> HINT
> It is not a V6.
>
>
>
>
> > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> > green, I step
> > on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> > for about 5 seconds
> > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> >
> > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> > it's hard shifting.
> > He called his "buddy" but would not get
> > him. He said the "Torque
> > converter" is going bad. I also might need
> > some trans work.
> >
> > Any advice?
> >
> > -J.
> >
>
>
> 1 -- you need another shop.
>
> 2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
> fluid you have (which is my advice).
>
> I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
> a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
> problems I was having.
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Hi:
Then I have a straight 6. What is that/ I know dumb question...
I wil ask him to flush the transmission and see if it helps.
Thanks,
-John
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi all:
> >
> > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> >
>
>
> There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
> V6.
>
> HINT
> It is not a V6.
>
>
>
>
> > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> > green, I step
> > on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> > for about 5 seconds
> > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> >
> > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> > it's hard shifting.
> > He called his "buddy" but would not get
> > him. He said the "Torque
> > converter" is going bad. I also might need
> > some trans work.
> >
> > Any advice?
> >
> > -J.
> >
>
>
> 1 -- you need another shop.
>
> 2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
> fluid you have (which is my advice).
>
> I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
> a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
> problems I was having.
Then I have a straight 6. What is that/ I know dumb question...
I wil ask him to flush the transmission and see if it helps.
Thanks,
-John
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi all:
> >
> > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> >
>
>
> There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
> V6.
>
> HINT
> It is not a V6.
>
>
>
>
> > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> > green, I step
> > on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> > for about 5 seconds
> > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> >
> > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> > it's hard shifting.
> > He called his "buddy" but would not get
> > him. He said the "Torque
> > converter" is going bad. I also might need
> > some trans work.
> >
> > Any advice?
> >
> > -J.
> >
>
>
> 1 -- you need another shop.
>
> 2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
> fluid you have (which is my advice).
>
> I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
> a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
> problems I was having.
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Torque converter going bad?
Hi:
Then I have a straight 6. What is that/ I know dumb question...
I wil ask him to flush the transmission and see if it helps.
Thanks,
-John
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi all:
> >
> > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> >
>
>
> There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
> V6.
>
> HINT
> It is not a V6.
>
>
>
>
> > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> > green, I step
> > on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> > for about 5 seconds
> > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> >
> > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> > it's hard shifting.
> > He called his "buddy" but would not get
> > him. He said the "Torque
> > converter" is going bad. I also might need
> > some trans work.
> >
> > Any advice?
> >
> > -J.
> >
>
>
> 1 -- you need another shop.
>
> 2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
> fluid you have (which is my advice).
>
> I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
> a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
> problems I was having.
Then I have a straight 6. What is that/ I know dumb question...
I wil ask him to flush the transmission and see if it helps.
Thanks,
-John
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi all:
> >
> > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> >
>
>
> There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
> V6.
>
> HINT
> It is not a V6.
>
>
>
>
> > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> > green, I step
> > on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> > for about 5 seconds
> > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> >
> > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> > it's hard shifting.
> > He called his "buddy" but would not get
> > him. He said the "Torque
> > converter" is going bad. I also might need
> > some trans work.
> >
> > Any advice?
> >
> > -J.
> >
>
>
> 1 -- you need another shop.
>
> 2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
> fluid you have (which is my advice).
>
> I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
> a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
> problems I was having.