Earle Horton

If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out. The
torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the transmission, and
as far as I know there is no convenient way to drain it. It would be
helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by sight and feel, the difference
between water and oil emulsion, and foam caused by overfilling. The foam
that Bill is talking about, is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the
proper amount of fluid is restored.

Drain and refill of the transmission is much, much cheaper than a rebuild,
which would probably be your next step, if the drain and refill does not
help. In much of auto repairs, it is wise to try the cheap, easy repairs
first. If it doesn't work, you haven't lost much. It it does, you have
saved a bundle.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:448C28A4.D89CC94B@sympatico.ca...
> If the fluid is foamy and looks something like a milkshake, you can just
> pull the dipstick and look to be sure, then a drain and fill is in order
> with a new filter.
>
> If the fluid is still red and clear but foamy, then I would just clean
> the plug for the TPS (throttle position sensor) with contact cleaner
> before spending money. The plug is on the throttle body.
>
> The torque converter could be bad also, but that runs into a lot of
> money to change so I would try the cheap fixes first.
>
> Mike
>
> lilgrasshopper@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Well, it's been raining heavy lately and I have driven across my shares
> > of deep puddles. What do I ask the technician to do or check?
> >
> > Thank!
> >
> > -John
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > Crossed any deep puddles or creeks lately? Jeep in it's ultimate
> > > wisdumb didn't put a high water vent on the transmission, they only
put
> > > them on the diffs and t-case.
> > >
> > > I have seen a lot full of foamy fluid from this. You can drain it and
> > > every one I have seen or heard of came back to life. One 1985 tranny
> > > had mud in it even and it came back.
> > >
> > > Then you can also just have a dirty connection on the TPS. It
controls
> > > the shifts and they do get dirty. A spray with an electronic contact
> > > cleaner on the plug and socket is the best, but WD40 will work in a
> > > pinch.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > lilgrasshopper@gmail.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The guy did. He said the fluid was full but "foamy"
> > > >
> > > > -John
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > > > > Have you checked the fluid level, hot, running in park, brake on,
> > > > > on level ground? Cold and being on pint low will cause it to slip
while
> > > > > it's finding oil to pressurize the servos. Usually the torque
convert
> > > > > problem is lockup and it then stalls the engine at stop signs.
> > > > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > lilgrasshopper@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi all:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the
light turns
> > > > > > green, I step
> > > > > > on the gas, the engine would revs to between
3-4000 RPM
> > > > > > for about 5 seconds
> > > > > > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to
third and
> > > > > > it's hard shifting.
> > > > > > He called his "buddy" but would not
get
> > > > > > him. He said the "Torque
> > > > > > converter" is going bad. I also
might need
> > > > > > some trans work.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any advice?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -J.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Earle Horton

If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out. The
torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the transmission, and
as far as I know there is no convenient way to drain it. It would be
helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by sight and feel, the difference
between water and oil emulsion, and foam caused by overfilling. The foam
that Bill is talking about, is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the
proper amount of fluid is restored.

Drain and refill of the transmission is much, much cheaper than a rebuild,
which would probably be your next step, if the drain and refill does not
help. In much of auto repairs, it is wise to try the cheap, easy repairs
first. If it doesn't work, you haven't lost much. It it does, you have
saved a bundle.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:448C28A4.D89CC94B@sympatico.ca...
> If the fluid is foamy and looks something like a milkshake, you can just
> pull the dipstick and look to be sure, then a drain and fill is in order
> with a new filter.
>
> If the fluid is still red and clear but foamy, then I would just clean
> the plug for the TPS (throttle position sensor) with contact cleaner
> before spending money. The plug is on the throttle body.
>
> The torque converter could be bad also, but that runs into a lot of
> money to change so I would try the cheap fixes first.
>
> Mike
>
> lilgrasshopper@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Well, it's been raining heavy lately and I have driven across my shares
> > of deep puddles. What do I ask the technician to do or check?
> >
> > Thank!
> >
> > -John
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > Crossed any deep puddles or creeks lately? Jeep in it's ultimate
> > > wisdumb didn't put a high water vent on the transmission, they only
put
> > > them on the diffs and t-case.
> > >
> > > I have seen a lot full of foamy fluid from this. You can drain it and
> > > every one I have seen or heard of came back to life. One 1985 tranny
> > > had mud in it even and it came back.
> > >
> > > Then you can also just have a dirty connection on the TPS. It
controls
> > > the shifts and they do get dirty. A spray with an electronic contact
> > > cleaner on the plug and socket is the best, but WD40 will work in a
> > > pinch.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > lilgrasshopper@gmail.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The guy did. He said the fluid was full but "foamy"
> > > >
> > > > -John
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > > > > Have you checked the fluid level, hot, running in park, brake on,
> > > > > on level ground? Cold and being on pint low will cause it to slip
while
> > > > > it's finding oil to pressurize the servos. Usually the torque
convert
> > > > > problem is lockup and it then stalls the engine at stop signs.
> > > > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > lilgrasshopper@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi all:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the
light turns
> > > > > > green, I step
> > > > > > on the gas, the engine would revs to between
3-4000 RPM
> > > > > > for about 5 seconds
> > > > > > and the car would lurch and act normally.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to
third and
> > > > > > it's hard shifting.
> > > > > > He called his "buddy" but would not
get
> > > > > > him. He said the "Torque
> > > > > > converter" is going bad. I also
might need
> > > > > > some trans work.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any advice?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -J.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

DougW

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out. The
> torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the transmission, and
> as far as I know there is no convenient way to drain it. It would be
> helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by sight and feel, the difference
> between water and oil emulsion, and foam caused by overfilling. The foam
> that Bill is talking about, is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the
> proper amount of fluid is restored.

The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
the torque converter.

If it's water then draining is the only way.
http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm

More reading
http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/article.cfm/040206

--
DougW

DougW

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out. The
> torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the transmission, and
> as far as I know there is no convenient way to drain it. It would be
> helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by sight and feel, the difference
> between water and oil emulsion, and foam caused by overfilling. The foam
> that Bill is talking about, is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the
> proper amount of fluid is restored.

The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
the torque converter.

If it's water then draining is the only way.
http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm

More reading
http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/article.cfm/040206

--
DougW

DougW

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out. The
> torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the transmission, and
> as far as I know there is no convenient way to drain it. It would be
> helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by sight and feel, the difference
> between water and oil emulsion, and foam caused by overfilling. The foam
> that Bill is talking about, is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the
> proper amount of fluid is restored.

The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
the torque converter.

If it's water then draining is the only way.
http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm

More reading
http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/article.cfm/040206

--
DougW

Earle Horton

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > of fluid is restored.
>
> The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> the torque converter.
>
> If it's water then draining is the only way.
> http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
>
Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
In psychology this is called "denial".

I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.

Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?

Earle





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Earle Horton

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > of fluid is restored.
>
> The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> the torque converter.
>
> If it's water then draining is the only way.
> http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
>
Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
In psychology this is called "denial".

I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.

Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?

Earle





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Earle Horton

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:jOWig.52802$9c6.2046@dukeread11...
> Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> > If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the
> > torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine
> > some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out.
> > The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the
> > transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to
> > drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by
> > sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and
> > foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about,
> > is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount
> > of fluid is restored.
>
> The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain
> the torque converter.
>
> If it's water then draining is the only way.
> http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm
>
Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken
apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover,
because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There
really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it."
In psychology this is called "denial".

I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting
torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience
of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on
your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the
service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the
manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't
give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling
fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new
torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a
fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.

Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?

Earle





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Jeff Strickland

<lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi all:
>
> Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
>


There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
V6.

HINT
It is not a V6.




> Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> green, I step
> on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> for about 5 seconds
> and the car would lurch and act normally.
>
> The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> it's hard shifting.
> He called his "buddy" but would not get
> him. He said the "Torque
> converter" is going bad. I also might need
> some trans work.
>
> Any advice?
>
> -J.
>


1 -- you need another shop.

2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
fluid you have (which is my advice).

I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
problems I was having.

Jeff Strickland

<lilgrasshopper@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1149974557.896792.218350@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi all:
>
> Veheicle: Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 1995 "Straight V6"
>


There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a
V6.

HINT
It is not a V6.




> Symtoms: I am driving and stopping at a red light, when the light turns
> green, I step
> on the gas, the engine would revs to between 3-4000 RPM
> for about 5 seconds
> and the car would lurch and act normally.
>
> The Firestone guy: Says that it is having problem shifting to third and
> it's hard shifting.
> He called his "buddy" but would not get
> him. He said the "Torque
> converter" is going bad. I also might need
> some trans work.
>
> Any advice?
>
> -J.
>


1 -- you need another shop.

2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the
fluid you have (which is my advice).

I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had
a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of
problems I was having.