TJ Radiator
10-15-2004, 11:16 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Radiator
Frank Sawin wrote:
>
> Mike,
> I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> determined engine running temperature.
> Frank Sawin
It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
blows.
It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
emission and mixture controls start working.
In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
giving a lot more heat from the heater.
If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
change a thing for top end heat.
I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
heater. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Mike,
> I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> determined engine running temperature.
> Frank Sawin
It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
blows.
It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
emission and mixture controls start working.
In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
giving a lot more heat from the heater.
If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
change a thing for top end heat.
I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
heater. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
10-15-2004, 11:16 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Radiator
Frank Sawin wrote:
>
> Mike,
> I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> determined engine running temperature.
> Frank Sawin
It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
blows.
It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
emission and mixture controls start working.
In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
giving a lot more heat from the heater.
If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
change a thing for top end heat.
I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
heater. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Mike,
> I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> determined engine running temperature.
> Frank Sawin
It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
blows.
It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
emission and mixture controls start working.
In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
giving a lot more heat from the heater.
If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
change a thing for top end heat.
I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
heater. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
10-15-2004, 11:16 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Radiator
Frank Sawin wrote:
>
> Mike,
> I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> determined engine running temperature.
> Frank Sawin
It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
blows.
It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
emission and mixture controls start working.
In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
giving a lot more heat from the heater.
If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
change a thing for top end heat.
I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
heater. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Mike,
> I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> determined engine running temperature.
> Frank Sawin
It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
blows.
It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
emission and mixture controls start working.
In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
giving a lot more heat from the heater.
If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
change a thing for top end heat.
I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
heater. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
10-16-2004, 10:34 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Radiator
the t stat is not what makes the emissions start to work. they start working as
soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
are you going to pass along
vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
output while still heating the cabin
it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
is a spec for this on all vehicles
if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
it's shut off
not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
shroud
is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
but with your wisdom you knew that
Mike Romain wrote:
> Frank Sawin wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > determined engine running temperature.
> > Frank Sawin
>
> It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> blows.
>
> It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> emission and mixture controls start working.
>
> In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
>
> If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> giving a lot more heat from the heater.
>
> If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> change a thing for top end heat.
>
> I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
>
> On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
>
> I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
>
> So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> heater. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
are you going to pass along
vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
output while still heating the cabin
it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
is a spec for this on all vehicles
if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
it's shut off
not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
shroud
is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
but with your wisdom you knew that
Mike Romain wrote:
> Frank Sawin wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > determined engine running temperature.
> > Frank Sawin
>
> It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> blows.
>
> It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> emission and mixture controls start working.
>
> In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
>
> If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> giving a lot more heat from the heater.
>
> If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> change a thing for top end heat.
>
> I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
>
> On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
>
> I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
>
> So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> heater. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
10-16-2004, 10:34 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Radiator
the t stat is not what makes the emissions start to work. they start working as
soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
are you going to pass along
vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
output while still heating the cabin
it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
is a spec for this on all vehicles
if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
it's shut off
not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
shroud
is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
but with your wisdom you knew that
Mike Romain wrote:
> Frank Sawin wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > determined engine running temperature.
> > Frank Sawin
>
> It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> blows.
>
> It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> emission and mixture controls start working.
>
> In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
>
> If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> giving a lot more heat from the heater.
>
> If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> change a thing for top end heat.
>
> I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
>
> On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
>
> I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
>
> So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> heater. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
are you going to pass along
vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
output while still heating the cabin
it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
is a spec for this on all vehicles
if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
it's shut off
not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
shroud
is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
but with your wisdom you knew that
Mike Romain wrote:
> Frank Sawin wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > determined engine running temperature.
> > Frank Sawin
>
> It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> blows.
>
> It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> emission and mixture controls start working.
>
> In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
>
> If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> giving a lot more heat from the heater.
>
> If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> change a thing for top end heat.
>
> I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
>
> On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
>
> I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
>
> So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> heater. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
10-16-2004, 10:34 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Radiator
the t stat is not what makes the emissions start to work. they start working as
soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
are you going to pass along
vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
output while still heating the cabin
it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
is a spec for this on all vehicles
if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
it's shut off
not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
shroud
is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
but with your wisdom you knew that
Mike Romain wrote:
> Frank Sawin wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > determined engine running temperature.
> > Frank Sawin
>
> It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> blows.
>
> It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> emission and mixture controls start working.
>
> In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
>
> If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> giving a lot more heat from the heater.
>
> If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> change a thing for top end heat.
>
> I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
>
> On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
>
> I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
>
> So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> heater. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
are you going to pass along
vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
output while still heating the cabin
it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
is a spec for this on all vehicles
if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
it's shut off
not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
shroud
is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
but with your wisdom you knew that
Mike Romain wrote:
> Frank Sawin wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > determined engine running temperature.
> > Frank Sawin
>
> It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> blows.
>
> It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> emission and mixture controls start working.
>
> In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
>
> If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> giving a lot more heat from the heater.
>
> If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> change a thing for top end heat.
>
> I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
>
> On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
>
> I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
>
> So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> heater. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
10-16-2004, 11:16 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Radiator
Why do you bother?
The thermostat only controls how cold the engine runs and how much heat
you get inside and how long it takes to warm up to operating
temperature. Simple eh?
(we don't really care about hybrid technology and electric pumps on our
current Jeeps eh.)
Put a 180 t-stat in and at -30 you will never get any hotter than 180 F
so you will freeze you butt off inside the Jeep. NO matter how big a
heater core you put in!
Put a 195 in at -30 and you will have at 'least' 195 deg water. You
will not get up to 210 at -30 but have a decent chance of hitting the
195 because there is no coolant flow.
Put a 180 in at -30 and the temp sensors will always say cold so the
emissions will not 'turn on' to 'run' mode they will stay in 'warm up'
or 'choke' mode because it will Not get any hotter than 180. (use what
ever fancy term you want, open loop, closed loop, etc.)
Heaters have had thermostat bypass hoses since they made thermostats.
That only means you get luke warm coolant while the engine heats up to
the temperature dictated by the thermostat.
In the real cold, if you use the heater blower while the engine is
warming up, it will take twice as long to warm up the engine due to that
bypass hose. Let it sit with the heater fan off (or on real low because
you now have no choice as the fan stays on) so no heat is sucked away
from the engine's coolant until the temperature gauge starts moving and
you will have 'good' heat 'way' faster.
AMC did Not put radiator fan shrouds on a whole bunch of Jeep CJ7's.
There was/is no place to even bolt one to on mine. (some CJ's did come
with shrouds, depends on the area market and engine)
Mike
mic canic wrote:
>
> the t stat is not what makes the emissions start to work. they start working as
> soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
> effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
> are you going to pass along
> vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
> type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
> hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
> output while still heating the cabin
> it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
> is a spec for this on all vehicles
> if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
> jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
> engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
> it's shut off
> not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
> shroud
> is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
> cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
> but with your wisdom you knew that
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Frank Sawin wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > > determined engine running temperature.
> > > Frank Sawin
> >
> > It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> > blows.
> >
> > It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> > temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> > emission and mixture controls start working.
> >
> > In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> > to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
> >
> > If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> > be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> > Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> > giving a lot more heat from the heater.
> >
> > If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> > effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> > change a thing for top end heat.
> >
> > I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> > runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> > 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
> >
> > On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> > turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> > system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
> >
> > I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> > the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> > to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> > shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> > rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
> >
> > So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> > here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> > heater. LOL!
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
The thermostat only controls how cold the engine runs and how much heat
you get inside and how long it takes to warm up to operating
temperature. Simple eh?
(we don't really care about hybrid technology and electric pumps on our
current Jeeps eh.)
Put a 180 t-stat in and at -30 you will never get any hotter than 180 F
so you will freeze you butt off inside the Jeep. NO matter how big a
heater core you put in!
Put a 195 in at -30 and you will have at 'least' 195 deg water. You
will not get up to 210 at -30 but have a decent chance of hitting the
195 because there is no coolant flow.
Put a 180 in at -30 and the temp sensors will always say cold so the
emissions will not 'turn on' to 'run' mode they will stay in 'warm up'
or 'choke' mode because it will Not get any hotter than 180. (use what
ever fancy term you want, open loop, closed loop, etc.)
Heaters have had thermostat bypass hoses since they made thermostats.
That only means you get luke warm coolant while the engine heats up to
the temperature dictated by the thermostat.
In the real cold, if you use the heater blower while the engine is
warming up, it will take twice as long to warm up the engine due to that
bypass hose. Let it sit with the heater fan off (or on real low because
you now have no choice as the fan stays on) so no heat is sucked away
from the engine's coolant until the temperature gauge starts moving and
you will have 'good' heat 'way' faster.
AMC did Not put radiator fan shrouds on a whole bunch of Jeep CJ7's.
There was/is no place to even bolt one to on mine. (some CJ's did come
with shrouds, depends on the area market and engine)
Mike
mic canic wrote:
>
> the t stat is not what makes the emissions start to work. they start working as
> soon as you start the vehicle, it's the temp sensors that decide when the most
> effeinct operation of the fuel mangement take place! how much more disinformation
> are you going to pass along
> vehicle are now made to start heating the cabin as soon as they can using a bypass
> type design and you will start to see d.c vehicles with electric pumps to circulate
> hot coolant until the tstat closes so the engine can be shut off reducing emission
> output while still heating the cabin
> it's the heater core that dictates the amount of heat available to use and there
> is a spec for this on all vehicles
> if you jeep owners noticed the temp gauge on 4.0's hangs about 210 degrees when the
> jeep is running and at the point the tstat stays at a full open position untill the
> engine cools enough to close it which nine times out of ten on a jeep happens when
> it's shut off
> not having a fan shroud is a engine sin as far as i'm concerned because the fan
> shroud
> is what allows the fan to direct airflow from the front of the radiator thru the
> cores and not suc air from the side of the fan blades missing the rad. all together
> but with your wisdom you knew that
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Frank Sawin wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > > I thought that the thermostat would open at 195 degrees, didn't think that it
> > > determined engine running temperature.
> > > Frank Sawin
> >
> > It only controls how 'cold' the engine runs and how 'hot' the heater
> > blows.
> >
> > It basically stays shut until the engine reaches the t-stat's
> > temperature. In modern engines, this is usually 195 F to make all the
> > emission and mixture controls start working.
> >
> > In old carb engines, folks used to use a 180 for the summer and switch
> > to a 195 in the winter for internal heat.
> >
> > If you have a 180 in the winter, then on a cold day the engine will only
> > be forced to run at 180 F. This makes for lousy heat inside the cab.
> > Put in a 195 and it forces the engine to heat up to 195 before opening
> > giving a lot more heat from the heater.
> >
> > If the engine has issues and wants to run hot, then a t-stat has no
> > effect unless the old one was broken. Putting a 'colder' one in won't
> > change a thing for top end heat.
> >
> > I have gone through 4 t-stats recently hoping they were bad.... My CJ
> > runs right at the freaking edge for overheating because I have a warn
> > 9000i winch and Hella black Magic lights blocking the air flow.
> >
> > On a hot day, or if I run extended at 75+ mph I will boil over unless I
> > turn on the heater blower to draw that little extra heat out of the
> > system. Then the gauge drops like crazy.
> >
> > I need more capacity (rad was new and recently flushed) or to rearrange
> > the front of my Jeep so I am thinking on a 3 core or at least a V8 rad
> > to replace the one I snapped in half a couple weeks ago. I might try a
> > shroud first, but that costs almost the same as a rad and I do need a
> > rad. My soldering job might hold, but....
> >
> > So I guess we see the results of playing with t-stats a lot easier up
> > here in The Great White North due to the immediate effect on the
> > heater. LOL!
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's