CD

Mike, Billy Ray, & Bill - thanks for pointing out the obvious. As usual, I
was making the situation more complicated than necessary. I narrowed it
down to the negative cable with the multi tester; then pulled off the
battery end of that cable. The cable was loose where it goes into the
connector. I took it apart, stripped off a little, refastened the cable to
the connector (more firmly), and all is now OK.

Cliff


"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:441DCF62.302CD676@***.net...
> Clean your battery terminals. When you take them apart you'll see a
> black substance to scrape off, I don't what it is, a type of corrosion
> or what? But it'll completely disconnect your battery.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> CD wrote:
>>
>> I have some sort of electrical and/or starting problem with my 2000 TJ,
>> Auto, 4.0, 70,000 miles. I started it this morning (after sitting 3
>> weeks),
>> no problem. Drove it 5 miles, parked for an hour, started it and drove 5
>> miles back home - no problems. It sat a couple hours, then I tried to
>> start
>> it again & my problems stated.
>>
>> I turned the ignition key, heard one click from under the hood, then
>> silence. I turned the key again and absolutely nothing. I have no
>> electricity to the car at all. No radio, headlights, dome light,
>> emergency
>> flashers - nothing. The only power in the entire car is via an auxiliary
>> DC
>> outlet that's direct wired to the battery (for RV towing).
>>
>> When I wait 30 minutes and try again, I sometimes get one click from
>> under
>> the hood - followed by no current throughout.
>>
>> The battery is 6 months old, wires are tight, and it registers 12.5
>> volts.
>> I see no loose wires around the starter solenoid. I looked at the fuses
>> under the hood. The one labeled Starter seems fine (I checked it with an
>> ohm meter).
>>
>> Any suggestions on where to start? I'm thinking I have a starter problem
>> (the first click) and a fuse problem (very uneducated guesses). Replacing
>> the starter doesn't look too difficult, but I don't want to just start
>> replacing parts with little confidence of the real problem(s).
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Cliff

RoyJ

You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
the mountain.

CD wrote:

> Mike, Billy Ray, & Bill - thanks for pointing out the obvious. As usual, I
> was making the situation more complicated than necessary. I narrowed it
> down to the negative cable with the multi tester; then pulled off the
> battery end of that cable. The cable was loose where it goes into the
> connector. I took it apart, stripped off a little, refastened the cable to
> the connector (more firmly), and all is now OK.
>
> Cliff
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:441DCF62.302CD676@***.net...
>
>> Clean your battery terminals. When you take them apart you'll see a
>>black substance to scrape off, I don't what it is, a type of corrosion
>>or what? But it'll completely disconnect your battery.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>CD wrote:
>>
>>>I have some sort of electrical and/or starting problem with my 2000 TJ,
>>>Auto, 4.0, 70,000 miles. I started it this morning (after sitting 3
>>>weeks),
>>>no problem. Drove it 5 miles, parked for an hour, started it and drove 5
>>>miles back home - no problems. It sat a couple hours, then I tried to
>>>start
>>>it again & my problems stated.
>>>
>>>I turned the ignition key, heard one click from under the hood, then
>>>silence. I turned the key again and absolutely nothing. I have no
>>>electricity to the car at all. No radio, headlights, dome light,
>>>emergency
>>>flashers - nothing. The only power in the entire car is via an auxiliary
>>>DC
>>>outlet that's direct wired to the battery (for RV towing).
>>>
>>>When I wait 30 minutes and try again, I sometimes get one click from
>>>under
>>>the hood - followed by no current throughout.
>>>
>>>The battery is 6 months old, wires are tight, and it registers 12.5
>>>volts.
>>>I see no loose wires around the starter solenoid. I looked at the fuses
>>>under the hood. The one labeled Starter seems fine (I checked it with an
>>>ohm meter).
>>>
>>>Any suggestions on where to start? I'm thinking I have a starter problem
>>>(the first click) and a fuse problem (very uneducated guesses). Replacing
>>>the starter doesn't look too difficult, but I don't want to just start
>>>replacing parts with little confidence of the real problem(s).
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Cliff
>
>
>

RoyJ

You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
the mountain.

CD wrote:

> Mike, Billy Ray, & Bill - thanks for pointing out the obvious. As usual, I
> was making the situation more complicated than necessary. I narrowed it
> down to the negative cable with the multi tester; then pulled off the
> battery end of that cable. The cable was loose where it goes into the
> connector. I took it apart, stripped off a little, refastened the cable to
> the connector (more firmly), and all is now OK.
>
> Cliff
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:441DCF62.302CD676@***.net...
>
>> Clean your battery terminals. When you take them apart you'll see a
>>black substance to scrape off, I don't what it is, a type of corrosion
>>or what? But it'll completely disconnect your battery.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>CD wrote:
>>
>>>I have some sort of electrical and/or starting problem with my 2000 TJ,
>>>Auto, 4.0, 70,000 miles. I started it this morning (after sitting 3
>>>weeks),
>>>no problem. Drove it 5 miles, parked for an hour, started it and drove 5
>>>miles back home - no problems. It sat a couple hours, then I tried to
>>>start
>>>it again & my problems stated.
>>>
>>>I turned the ignition key, heard one click from under the hood, then
>>>silence. I turned the key again and absolutely nothing. I have no
>>>electricity to the car at all. No radio, headlights, dome light,
>>>emergency
>>>flashers - nothing. The only power in the entire car is via an auxiliary
>>>DC
>>>outlet that's direct wired to the battery (for RV towing).
>>>
>>>When I wait 30 minutes and try again, I sometimes get one click from
>>>under
>>>the hood - followed by no current throughout.
>>>
>>>The battery is 6 months old, wires are tight, and it registers 12.5
>>>volts.
>>>I see no loose wires around the starter solenoid. I looked at the fuses
>>>under the hood. The one labeled Starter seems fine (I checked it with an
>>>ohm meter).
>>>
>>>Any suggestions on where to start? I'm thinking I have a starter problem
>>>(the first click) and a fuse problem (very uneducated guesses). Replacing
>>>the starter doesn't look too difficult, but I don't want to just start
>>>replacing parts with little confidence of the real problem(s).
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Cliff
>
>
>

RoyJ

You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
the mountain.

CD wrote:

> Mike, Billy Ray, & Bill - thanks for pointing out the obvious. As usual, I
> was making the situation more complicated than necessary. I narrowed it
> down to the negative cable with the multi tester; then pulled off the
> battery end of that cable. The cable was loose where it goes into the
> connector. I took it apart, stripped off a little, refastened the cable to
> the connector (more firmly), and all is now OK.
>
> Cliff
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:441DCF62.302CD676@***.net...
>
>> Clean your battery terminals. When you take them apart you'll see a
>>black substance to scrape off, I don't what it is, a type of corrosion
>>or what? But it'll completely disconnect your battery.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>CD wrote:
>>
>>>I have some sort of electrical and/or starting problem with my 2000 TJ,
>>>Auto, 4.0, 70,000 miles. I started it this morning (after sitting 3
>>>weeks),
>>>no problem. Drove it 5 miles, parked for an hour, started it and drove 5
>>>miles back home - no problems. It sat a couple hours, then I tried to
>>>start
>>>it again & my problems stated.
>>>
>>>I turned the ignition key, heard one click from under the hood, then
>>>silence. I turned the key again and absolutely nothing. I have no
>>>electricity to the car at all. No radio, headlights, dome light,
>>>emergency
>>>flashers - nothing. The only power in the entire car is via an auxiliary
>>>DC
>>>outlet that's direct wired to the battery (for RV towing).
>>>
>>>When I wait 30 minutes and try again, I sometimes get one click from
>>>under
>>>the hood - followed by no current throughout.
>>>
>>>The battery is 6 months old, wires are tight, and it registers 12.5
>>>volts.
>>>I see no loose wires around the starter solenoid. I looked at the fuses
>>>under the hood. The one labeled Starter seems fine (I checked it with an
>>>ohm meter).
>>>
>>>Any suggestions on where to start? I'm thinking I have a starter problem
>>>(the first click) and a fuse problem (very uneducated guesses). Replacing
>>>the starter doesn't look too difficult, but I don't want to just start
>>>replacing parts with little confidence of the real problem(s).
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Cliff
>
>
>

RoyJ

You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
the mountain.

CD wrote:

> Mike, Billy Ray, & Bill - thanks for pointing out the obvious. As usual, I
> was making the situation more complicated than necessary. I narrowed it
> down to the negative cable with the multi tester; then pulled off the
> battery end of that cable. The cable was loose where it goes into the
> connector. I took it apart, stripped off a little, refastened the cable to
> the connector (more firmly), and all is now OK.
>
> Cliff
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:441DCF62.302CD676@***.net...
>
>> Clean your battery terminals. When you take them apart you'll see a
>>black substance to scrape off, I don't what it is, a type of corrosion
>>or what? But it'll completely disconnect your battery.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>CD wrote:
>>
>>>I have some sort of electrical and/or starting problem with my 2000 TJ,
>>>Auto, 4.0, 70,000 miles. I started it this morning (after sitting 3
>>>weeks),
>>>no problem. Drove it 5 miles, parked for an hour, started it and drove 5
>>>miles back home - no problems. It sat a couple hours, then I tried to
>>>start
>>>it again & my problems stated.
>>>
>>>I turned the ignition key, heard one click from under the hood, then
>>>silence. I turned the key again and absolutely nothing. I have no
>>>electricity to the car at all. No radio, headlights, dome light,
>>>emergency
>>>flashers - nothing. The only power in the entire car is via an auxiliary
>>>DC
>>>outlet that's direct wired to the battery (for RV towing).
>>>
>>>When I wait 30 minutes and try again, I sometimes get one click from
>>>under
>>>the hood - followed by no current throughout.
>>>
>>>The battery is 6 months old, wires are tight, and it registers 12.5
>>>volts.
>>>I see no loose wires around the starter solenoid. I looked at the fuses
>>>under the hood. The one labeled Starter seems fine (I checked it with an
>>>ohm meter).
>>>
>>>Any suggestions on where to start? I'm thinking I have a starter problem
>>>(the first click) and a fuse problem (very uneducated guesses). Replacing
>>>the starter doesn't look too difficult, but I don't want to just start
>>>replacing parts with little confidence of the real problem(s).
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Cliff
>
>
>

DougW

RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
> will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
> the mountain.

I liked the old lead style. If it breaks, just melt the bugger down
and re-cast. :) Interesting to note, the alloy they make wheel weights
out of does a damn good job. Which reminds me, my ground clamp needs
to be recast. Buggered it up working on the engine. :/

Bill probably has a picture of the molds. ;)

None of the screw style ones work very well. Not even the gold
plated Phoenix Gold stuff used for audio competition.. Unless you
pot the wires in there. Yep, you guessed it. I fill the void with
lead solder.

For crimp style there are some good kits you can fit using a vice.
But if your engine is stock it's better to go OEM or a high quality
aftermarket. The cheap ---- doesn't cut it for long.

--
DougW

DougW

RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
> will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
> the mountain.

I liked the old lead style. If it breaks, just melt the bugger down
and re-cast. :) Interesting to note, the alloy they make wheel weights
out of does a damn good job. Which reminds me, my ground clamp needs
to be recast. Buggered it up working on the engine. :/

Bill probably has a picture of the molds. ;)

None of the screw style ones work very well. Not even the gold
plated Phoenix Gold stuff used for audio competition.. Unless you
pot the wires in there. Yep, you guessed it. I fill the void with
lead solder.

For crimp style there are some good kits you can fit using a vice.
But if your engine is stock it's better to go OEM or a high quality
aftermarket. The cheap ---- doesn't cut it for long.

--
DougW

DougW

RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
> will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
> the mountain.

I liked the old lead style. If it breaks, just melt the bugger down
and re-cast. :) Interesting to note, the alloy they make wheel weights
out of does a damn good job. Which reminds me, my ground clamp needs
to be recast. Buggered it up working on the engine. :/

Bill probably has a picture of the molds. ;)

None of the screw style ones work very well. Not even the gold
plated Phoenix Gold stuff used for audio competition.. Unless you
pot the wires in there. Yep, you guessed it. I fill the void with
lead solder.

For crimp style there are some good kits you can fit using a vice.
But if your engine is stock it's better to go OEM or a high quality
aftermarket. The cheap ---- doesn't cut it for long.

--
DougW

DougW

RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
> will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
> the mountain.

I liked the old lead style. If it breaks, just melt the bugger down
and re-cast. :) Interesting to note, the alloy they make wheel weights
out of does a damn good job. Which reminds me, my ground clamp needs
to be recast. Buggered it up working on the engine. :/

Bill probably has a picture of the molds. ;)

None of the screw style ones work very well. Not even the gold
plated Phoenix Gold stuff used for audio competition.. Unless you
pot the wires in there. Yep, you guessed it. I fill the void with
lead solder.

For crimp style there are some good kits you can fit using a vice.
But if your engine is stock it's better to go OEM or a high quality
aftermarket. The cheap ---- doesn't cut it for long.

--
DougW

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

http://www.gunblast.com/images/SHOT2...2/DSC05673.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> > You need to replace it with a factory crimped cable. Sooner or later it
> > will fail the same way, usually in the middle of a snowstorm or up on
> > the mountain.
>
> I liked the old lead style. If it breaks, just melt the bugger down
> and re-cast. :) Interesting to note, the alloy they make wheel weights
> out of does a damn good job. Which reminds me, my ground clamp needs
> to be recast. Buggered it up working on the engine. :/
>
> Bill probably has a picture of the molds. ;)
>
> None of the screw style ones work very well. Not even the gold
> plated Phoenix Gold stuff used for audio competition.. Unless you
> pot the wires in there. Yep, you guessed it. I fill the void with
> lead solder.
>
> For crimp style there are some good kits you can fit using a vice.
> But if your engine is stock it's better to go OEM or a high quality
> aftermarket. The cheap ---- doesn't cut it for long.
>
> --
> DougW