L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

You may point the pinion straight at the constant velocity universal
joint on the transfer's end:
http://www.jeepwrangler.com/~bradjeep/b2c.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Fletcher wrote:
>
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44 from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

You may point the pinion straight at the constant velocity universal
joint on the transfer's end:
http://www.jeepwrangler.com/~bradjeep/b2c.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Fletcher wrote:
>
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44 from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?

JimG

Hi Bill,

What is your definition of "constant velocity u-joints"? I always thought
they consisted of a total of three u-joints per shaft, two of which are
right close together and encapsulated. My Civilian Jeep has simple drive
shafts - two u-joints per shaft, one on each end.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
..
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3FE22315.DF5FDBCC@***.net...
> The Original Poster, is working with a Civilian Jeep, most likely
> it already has fixed yokes and constant velocity universal joints,
> stock, and with a drill press he can clock the Real geared Dana 300:
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/xfer/tindex/
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Morrissey wrote:
> >
> > Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it
with a
> > fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.
> >
> > Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!
> >
> > BillM

JimG

Hi Bill,

What is your definition of "constant velocity u-joints"? I always thought
they consisted of a total of three u-joints per shaft, two of which are
right close together and encapsulated. My Civilian Jeep has simple drive
shafts - two u-joints per shaft, one on each end.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
..
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3FE22315.DF5FDBCC@***.net...
> The Original Poster, is working with a Civilian Jeep, most likely
> it already has fixed yokes and constant velocity universal joints,
> stock, and with a drill press he can clock the Real geared Dana 300:
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/xfer/tindex/
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Morrissey wrote:
> >
> > Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it
with a
> > fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.
> >
> > Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!
> >
> > BillM

JimG

Hi Bill,

What is your definition of "constant velocity u-joints"? I always thought
they consisted of a total of three u-joints per shaft, two of which are
right close together and encapsulated. My Civilian Jeep has simple drive
shafts - two u-joints per shaft, one on each end.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
..
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3FE22315.DF5FDBCC@***.net...
> The Original Poster, is working with a Civilian Jeep, most likely
> it already has fixed yokes and constant velocity universal joints,
> stock, and with a drill press he can clock the Real geared Dana 300:
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/xfer/tindex/
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Morrissey wrote:
> >
> > Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it
with a
> > fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.
> >
> > Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!
> >
> > BillM

JimG

The scout axle will be much wider than your stock unit. If you use one on
the front (to match the back), the perches would have to be out-boarded from
the frame, or the axle would have to be cut down (then it would be more
narrow than the rear). But yes, you would rotate it so that the pinion is
more direct to the t-case, very common in SOA's.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:lQpEb.6418$lI4.5332@fe06.private.usenetserver .com...
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44
from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to
help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> > One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> > angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase,
you
> > will straighten out one of the angles.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
> even
> > do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
> the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>

JimG

The scout axle will be much wider than your stock unit. If you use one on
the front (to match the back), the perches would have to be out-boarded from
the frame, or the axle would have to be cut down (then it would be more
narrow than the rear). But yes, you would rotate it so that the pinion is
more direct to the t-case, very common in SOA's.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:lQpEb.6418$lI4.5332@fe06.private.usenetserver .com...
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44
from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to
help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> > One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> > angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase,
you
> > will straighten out one of the angles.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
> even
> > do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
> the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>

JimG

The scout axle will be much wider than your stock unit. If you use one on
the front (to match the back), the perches would have to be out-boarded from
the frame, or the axle would have to be cut down (then it would be more
narrow than the rear). But yes, you would rotate it so that the pinion is
more direct to the t-case, very common in SOA's.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:lQpEb.6418$lI4.5332@fe06.private.usenetserver .com...
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44
from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to
help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> > One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> > angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase,
you
> > will straighten out one of the angles.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
> even
> > do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
> the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Same as yours. I don't know why your Jeep doesn't have them, maybe
they fired the engineers for using the Quadratrac.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JimG wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> What is your definition of "constant velocity u-joints"? I always thought
> they consisted of a total of three u-joints per shaft, two of which are
> right close together and encapsulated. My Civilian Jeep has simple drive
> shafts - two u-joints per shaft, one on each end.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> .
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FE22315.DF5FDBCC@***.net...
> > The Original Poster, is working with a Civilian Jeep, most likely
> > it already has fixed yokes and constant velocity universal joints,
> > stock, and with a drill press he can clock the Real geared Dana 300:
> > http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/xfer/tindex/
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Morrissey wrote:
> > >
> > > Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it
> with a
> > > fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.
> > >
> > > Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!
> > >
> > > BillM

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Same as yours. I don't know why your Jeep doesn't have them, maybe
they fired the engineers for using the Quadratrac.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JimG wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> What is your definition of "constant velocity u-joints"? I always thought
> they consisted of a total of three u-joints per shaft, two of which are
> right close together and encapsulated. My Civilian Jeep has simple drive
> shafts - two u-joints per shaft, one on each end.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> .
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FE22315.DF5FDBCC@***.net...
> > The Original Poster, is working with a Civilian Jeep, most likely
> > it already has fixed yokes and constant velocity universal joints,
> > stock, and with a drill press he can clock the Real geared Dana 300:
> > http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/xfer/tindex/
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Morrissey wrote:
> > >
> > > Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it
> with a
> > > fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.
> > >
> > > Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!
> > >
> > > BillM