Synthetic Oils
08-03-2003, 09:25 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Synthetic Oils
In article <Xns93CCBF28BC0CAfistptdnet@204.186.201.17>,
Rich Pierson <fist@ptd.net> wrote:
>Check with jeep, they made a few 'mistakes' when they printed up the
>FSM's and owners manuals. I have an FSM for my 98XJ and there are several
LOL. I ordered the factory service manual so I will read that first. The
Haynes is it's usual lame-self but I had to buy it anyway. :) I always
get a cheap Haynes when I first buy a vehicle that I want to work on myself.
>mistakes in it, the tranny lube is one of them, sometimes even the
>dealers don't know. If you go to mobils home page and get into the mobil-
>1 faq even they waffle a bit and say 'follow manufactures
>recommendations'
Okay. I didn't do the tranny lube yet but that and the front axle is
next.
>I will say the mobil-1 in the ax-15 smoothed it out quite a bit in cold
>weather, that AX-15 is positively cold blooded in the winter, specially
>2nd gear. In the NP231 is made shifting smooth as silk when going either
>into or out of 4Lo.
Good to hear. I can't wait. The Mobil1 synth ATF in the transfer case really
worked well too.
>In the differentials keep an eye on the seals, depending on wear you
>might get some seepage and in the back it goes right on the brake shoes.
Okay. I will thanks for the tip. I used the blue Halycon(sp) Permatex gasket
sealer with a Fel-Pro(sp) gasket. Stuff is in the garage so I can't remember
the exact names. That Permatex stuff is great and works well with the paper
gasket. The other crap on the housing case was horrible and took forever to
get off the bolts. So far it looks dry. I still have to do a wheels check
and look at the brakes.
>RichP
>
>nospam@zero.com (Peter Parker) wrote in news:3f2d15ad_2@nntp2.nac.net:
>
>> In article <Xns93CC5DDFA7BFBfistptdnet@204.186.201.17>,
>> Rich Pierson <fist@ptd.net> wrote:
>>>Engine synthetic is good, keep an eye on leaks and weeps.
>>
>> Okay. It's currently not leaking or weeping so it should be okay. I
>> want to use Mobil1 like I do with my VW.
>>
>>>Tranny, stay away from syn in the auto's, mixed jury there, some
>>>reported big time problems after the change, others no problems.
>>
>> No slush boxes here.
>>
>>>The AX-15 requires GL3, NOT GL5 or GL2,3,4,5,6, etc 'one size fits
>>>all' lube. Has to do with sulpher content and the sintered parts that
>>>are used in it. Dealer has a specific GL3 just for the AX15, and its
>>>friggin expensive too... That said I switched to Mobil-1 gear oil in
>>>my 98XJ, 5speed, NP231 when it was new, it now has over 180,000mi on
>>>it with no problem but I'm an easy driver, shift very easy, leakage
>>>out of my transfer cases rear seal keeps that area rust free and the
>>>underbody well lubricated. I add about 3oz's maybe every 4 months.
>>
>> My owners manual states to use only Mopar Gear lub or equivalent
>> SAE 75W-90 API-GL5 grade. I guess this means that I do not have the
>> AX-15 tranny. I would use Redline MT-90 but it's only 75W-90 GL4 lube.
>> This is what I currently use in my VW. However Redline does have
>> 75W-90 GL5 synthetic gear oil which fits the specs. I wonder...
>>
>>>As for a study, I do not know if it is still there but Carnagie Mellon
>>>Univ did a syn study on, IIRC, 6 identical motors. It was interesting
>>>because at the end of the study the engines run on synthetic had no
>>>measureable wear on the parts.
>>
>> I like synthetic over dino myself. This is my first Jeep even though
>> it's quite used but it is fun to drive.
>
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Rich Pierson <fist@ptd.net> wrote:
>Check with jeep, they made a few 'mistakes' when they printed up the
>FSM's and owners manuals. I have an FSM for my 98XJ and there are several
LOL. I ordered the factory service manual so I will read that first. The
Haynes is it's usual lame-self but I had to buy it anyway. :) I always
get a cheap Haynes when I first buy a vehicle that I want to work on myself.
>mistakes in it, the tranny lube is one of them, sometimes even the
>dealers don't know. If you go to mobils home page and get into the mobil-
>1 faq even they waffle a bit and say 'follow manufactures
>recommendations'
Okay. I didn't do the tranny lube yet but that and the front axle is
next.
>I will say the mobil-1 in the ax-15 smoothed it out quite a bit in cold
>weather, that AX-15 is positively cold blooded in the winter, specially
>2nd gear. In the NP231 is made shifting smooth as silk when going either
>into or out of 4Lo.
Good to hear. I can't wait. The Mobil1 synth ATF in the transfer case really
worked well too.
>In the differentials keep an eye on the seals, depending on wear you
>might get some seepage and in the back it goes right on the brake shoes.
Okay. I will thanks for the tip. I used the blue Halycon(sp) Permatex gasket
sealer with a Fel-Pro(sp) gasket. Stuff is in the garage so I can't remember
the exact names. That Permatex stuff is great and works well with the paper
gasket. The other crap on the housing case was horrible and took forever to
get off the bolts. So far it looks dry. I still have to do a wheels check
and look at the brakes.
>RichP
>
>nospam@zero.com (Peter Parker) wrote in news:3f2d15ad_2@nntp2.nac.net:
>
>> In article <Xns93CC5DDFA7BFBfistptdnet@204.186.201.17>,
>> Rich Pierson <fist@ptd.net> wrote:
>>>Engine synthetic is good, keep an eye on leaks and weeps.
>>
>> Okay. It's currently not leaking or weeping so it should be okay. I
>> want to use Mobil1 like I do with my VW.
>>
>>>Tranny, stay away from syn in the auto's, mixed jury there, some
>>>reported big time problems after the change, others no problems.
>>
>> No slush boxes here.
>>
>>>The AX-15 requires GL3, NOT GL5 or GL2,3,4,5,6, etc 'one size fits
>>>all' lube. Has to do with sulpher content and the sintered parts that
>>>are used in it. Dealer has a specific GL3 just for the AX15, and its
>>>friggin expensive too... That said I switched to Mobil-1 gear oil in
>>>my 98XJ, 5speed, NP231 when it was new, it now has over 180,000mi on
>>>it with no problem but I'm an easy driver, shift very easy, leakage
>>>out of my transfer cases rear seal keeps that area rust free and the
>>>underbody well lubricated. I add about 3oz's maybe every 4 months.
>>
>> My owners manual states to use only Mopar Gear lub or equivalent
>> SAE 75W-90 API-GL5 grade. I guess this means that I do not have the
>> AX-15 tranny. I would use Redline MT-90 but it's only 75W-90 GL4 lube.
>> This is what I currently use in my VW. However Redline does have
>> 75W-90 GL5 synthetic gear oil which fits the specs. I wonder...
>>
>>>As for a study, I do not know if it is still there but Carnagie Mellon
>>>Univ did a syn study on, IIRC, 6 identical motors. It was interesting
>>>because at the end of the study the engines run on synthetic had no
>>>measureable wear on the parts.
>>
>> I like synthetic over dino myself. This is my first Jeep even though
>> it's quite used but it is fun to drive.
>
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08-04-2003, 06:19 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Synthetic Oils
Peter Parker wrote:
> Okay. I will thanks for the tip. I used the blue Halycon(sp) Permatex
> gasket sealer with a Fel-Pro(sp) gasket. Stuff is in the garage so I can't
> remember the exact names. That Permatex stuff is great and works well with
> the paper gasket. The other crap on the housing case was horrible and took
> forever to get off the bolts. So far it looks dry. I still have to do a
> wheels check and look at the brakes.
In an article published a few years ago in Hot Rod magazine, it has been
found that mixing gasket sealer with a cork or rubber gasket actually
causes them to leak easier. It's better to either use a silicon gasket
sealer/maker _OR_ a dry cork/rubber gasket, but not both to get the best
seal.
> Okay. I will thanks for the tip. I used the blue Halycon(sp) Permatex
> gasket sealer with a Fel-Pro(sp) gasket. Stuff is in the garage so I can't
> remember the exact names. That Permatex stuff is great and works well with
> the paper gasket. The other crap on the housing case was horrible and took
> forever to get off the bolts. So far it looks dry. I still have to do a
> wheels check and look at the brakes.
In an article published a few years ago in Hot Rod magazine, it has been
found that mixing gasket sealer with a cork or rubber gasket actually
causes them to leak easier. It's better to either use a silicon gasket
sealer/maker _OR_ a dry cork/rubber gasket, but not both to get the best
seal.
08-04-2003, 10:26 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Synthetic Oils
In article <3f2edbab$0$43874$a0465688@nnrp.fuse.net>,
Big Daddy <DontBother@nowhere.com> wrote:
>Peter Parker wrote:
>
>
>> Okay. I will thanks for the tip. I used the blue Halycon(sp) Permatex
>> gasket sealer with a Fel-Pro(sp) gasket. Stuff is in the garage so I can't
>> remember the exact names. That Permatex stuff is great and works well with
>> the paper gasket. The other crap on the housing case was horrible and took
>> forever to get off the bolts. So far it looks dry. I still have to do a
>> wheels check and look at the brakes.
>
>In an article published a few years ago in Hot Rod magazine, it has been
>found that mixing gasket sealer with a cork or rubber gasket actually
>causes them to leak easier. It's better to either use a silicon gasket
>sealer/maker _OR_ a dry cork/rubber gasket, but not both to get the best
>seal.
Interesting but my gaskets are paper and I used the blue Permatex gasket
bonding. It didn't smell like silicon. I just hate silicon and what it does
to the bolts and hardware. Bla!
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Big Daddy <DontBother@nowhere.com> wrote:
>Peter Parker wrote:
>
>
>> Okay. I will thanks for the tip. I used the blue Halycon(sp) Permatex
>> gasket sealer with a Fel-Pro(sp) gasket. Stuff is in the garage so I can't
>> remember the exact names. That Permatex stuff is great and works well with
>> the paper gasket. The other crap on the housing case was horrible and took
>> forever to get off the bolts. So far it looks dry. I still have to do a
>> wheels check and look at the brakes.
>
>In an article published a few years ago in Hot Rod magazine, it has been
>found that mixing gasket sealer with a cork or rubber gasket actually
>causes them to leak easier. It's better to either use a silicon gasket
>sealer/maker _OR_ a dry cork/rubber gasket, but not both to get the best
>seal.
Interesting but my gaskets are paper and I used the blue Permatex gasket
bonding. It didn't smell like silicon. I just hate silicon and what it does
to the bolts and hardware. Bla!
--
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08-11-2003, 10:20 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Synthetic Oils
In article <Xns93CC5DDFA7BFBfistptdnet@204.186.201.17>,
Rich Pierson <fist@ptd.net> wrote:
>Engine synthetic is good, keep an eye on leaks and weeps.
>Tranny, stay away from syn in the auto's, mixed jury there, some reported
>big time problems after the change, others no problems.
>The AX-15 requires GL3, NOT GL5 or GL2,3,4,5,6, etc 'one size fits all'
>lube. Has to do with sulpher content and the sintered parts that are used
>in it. Dealer has a specific GL3 just for the AX15, and its friggin
>expensive too... That said I switched to Mobil-1 gear oil in my 98XJ,
Finally did some DD and you are correct. I already had bought Mobil1
75W-90 GL5 gear oil and if it wasn't for the broken bracket that I found
on the AX25 mount, I would have poured in the syncro death sentence. Mopar
MTL is GL3 and without sulpur additives so it will not harm the yellow
metals. Redline MT-90 which is rated GL-4 and means it does not
contain any sulphur additives which increase syncro wear. I use MT-90 in
my O2O VW manual transmission and it really works well. MT-90 is
specifically for manual transmissions and has a specially calculated
'stickiness' to help synchros match speeds faster, yielding smoother and
faster shifts. It's high shear resistance reduces gear and bearing wear
over extended change intervals. MT-90 is 75W-90 rated.
The owners and service manuals are wrong. Not surprised.
So today I returned the Mobil1 synthetic gear oil and tomorrow I will
order Redline MT-90 from my favorite germanparts site in NY. It only takes
one day to ship to EPA, where I live.
The original modular Jeep design reminds me of the original VW bug design
with the moduler and simple look and feel. Quite interesting.
--
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Rich Pierson <fist@ptd.net> wrote:
>Engine synthetic is good, keep an eye on leaks and weeps.
>Tranny, stay away from syn in the auto's, mixed jury there, some reported
>big time problems after the change, others no problems.
>The AX-15 requires GL3, NOT GL5 or GL2,3,4,5,6, etc 'one size fits all'
>lube. Has to do with sulpher content and the sintered parts that are used
>in it. Dealer has a specific GL3 just for the AX15, and its friggin
>expensive too... That said I switched to Mobil-1 gear oil in my 98XJ,
Finally did some DD and you are correct. I already had bought Mobil1
75W-90 GL5 gear oil and if it wasn't for the broken bracket that I found
on the AX25 mount, I would have poured in the syncro death sentence. Mopar
MTL is GL3 and without sulpur additives so it will not harm the yellow
metals. Redline MT-90 which is rated GL-4 and means it does not
contain any sulphur additives which increase syncro wear. I use MT-90 in
my O2O VW manual transmission and it really works well. MT-90 is
specifically for manual transmissions and has a specially calculated
'stickiness' to help synchros match speeds faster, yielding smoother and
faster shifts. It's high shear resistance reduces gear and bearing wear
over extended change intervals. MT-90 is 75W-90 rated.
The owners and service manuals are wrong. Not surprised.
So today I returned the Mobil1 synthetic gear oil and tomorrow I will
order Redline MT-90 from my favorite germanparts site in NY. It only takes
one day to ship to EPA, where I live.
The original modular Jeep design reminds me of the original VW bug design
with the moduler and simple look and feel. Quite interesting.
--
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