RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
> handle. That baby is a serious contender.

Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
material like a steel hammer will.

> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
> first.) Be carefull.

Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.

--
DougW

 

John Davies did pass the time by typing:
>>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and
>>> banged it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by
>>> repeated hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a
>>> puller? Thanks
>
> When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
> squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
> shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
> stck rotors.

Yep.. just a teeny blob smeared around to cover the surface.

http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm
or
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=81464

> Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.

Where trouble = contaminated brake shoes. :O
Actually the hat should protect the inside and even though you can
put it on the face (wheel side) I've never seen a rotor frozen to
a wheel. :)

Speaking of that, when your done with putting the rotor on make sure
you remove all traces of lube and fingerprints with something like
Brakeclean. Just keep it off any plastic and use gloves/eye protection,
it's harsh on skin.


--
DougW

 

John Davies did pass the time by typing:
>>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and
>>> banged it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by
>>> repeated hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a
>>> puller? Thanks
>
> When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
> squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
> shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
> stck rotors.

Yep.. just a teeny blob smeared around to cover the surface.

http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm
or
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=81464

> Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.

Where trouble = contaminated brake shoes. :O
Actually the hat should protect the inside and even though you can
put it on the face (wheel side) I've never seen a rotor frozen to
a wheel. :)

Speaking of that, when your done with putting the rotor on make sure
you remove all traces of lube and fingerprints with something like
Brakeclean. Just keep it off any plastic and use gloves/eye protection,
it's harsh on skin.


--
DougW

 

John Davies did pass the time by typing:
>>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and
>>> banged it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by
>>> repeated hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a
>>> puller? Thanks
>
> When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
> squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
> shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
> stck rotors.

Yep.. just a teeny blob smeared around to cover the surface.

http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm
or
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=81464

> Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.

Where trouble = contaminated brake shoes. :O
Actually the hat should protect the inside and even though you can
put it on the face (wheel side) I've never seen a rotor frozen to
a wheel. :)

Speaking of that, when your done with putting the rotor on make sure
you remove all traces of lube and fingerprints with something like
Brakeclean. Just keep it off any plastic and use gloves/eye protection,
it's harsh on skin.


--
DougW

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:

> http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm

Heh. :)

All the way to Venezuela to look at an English
description of a product.

Yay Google!

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:

> http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm

Heh. :)

All the way to Venezuela to look at an English
description of a product.

Yay Google!

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:

> http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm

Heh. :)

All the way to Venezuela to look at an English
description of a product.

Yay Google!

 

DougW wrote:
>
> John Davies did pass the time by typing:
> >>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and
> >>> banged it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by
> >>> repeated hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a
> >>> puller? Thanks
> >
> > When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
> > squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
> > shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
> > stck rotors.
>
> Yep.. just a teeny blob smeared around to cover the surface.
>
> http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm
> or
> http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=81464
>
> > Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.
>
> Where trouble = contaminated brake shoes. :O
> Actually the hat should protect the inside and even though you can
> put it on the face (wheel side) I've never seen a rotor frozen to
> a wheel. :)
>
> Speaking of that, when your done with putting the rotor on make sure
> you remove all traces of lube and fingerprints with something like
> Brakeclean. Just keep it off any plastic and use gloves/eye protection,
> it's harsh on skin.
>
> --
> DougW

I have seen aluminum Cherokee rims electrically welded to the face of
the hub. Several times. To the point of new rims needed....

I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums or rotors now.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

DougW wrote:
>
> John Davies did pass the time by typing:
> >>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and
> >>> banged it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by
> >>> repeated hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a
> >>> puller? Thanks
> >
> > When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
> > squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
> > shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
> > stck rotors.
>
> Yep.. just a teeny blob smeared around to cover the surface.
>
> http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm
> or
> http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=81464
>
> > Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.
>
> Where trouble = contaminated brake shoes. :O
> Actually the hat should protect the inside and even though you can
> put it on the face (wheel side) I've never seen a rotor frozen to
> a wheel. :)
>
> Speaking of that, when your done with putting the rotor on make sure
> you remove all traces of lube and fingerprints with something like
> Brakeclean. Just keep it off any plastic and use gloves/eye protection,
> it's harsh on skin.
>
> --
> DougW

I have seen aluminum Cherokee rims electrically welded to the face of
the hub. Several times. To the point of new rims needed....

I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums or rotors now.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

DougW wrote:
>
> John Davies did pass the time by typing:
> >>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and
> >>> banged it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by
> >>> repeated hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a
> >>> puller? Thanks
> >
> > When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
> > squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
> > shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
> > stck rotors.
>
> Yep.. just a teeny blob smeared around to cover the surface.
>
> http://www.loctite.com.ve/english/products/767.htm
> or
> http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=81464
>
> > Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.
>
> Where trouble = contaminated brake shoes. :O
> Actually the hat should protect the inside and even though you can
> put it on the face (wheel side) I've never seen a rotor frozen to
> a wheel. :)
>
> Speaking of that, when your done with putting the rotor on make sure
> you remove all traces of lube and fingerprints with something like
> Brakeclean. Just keep it off any plastic and use gloves/eye protection,
> it's harsh on skin.
>
> --
> DougW

I have seen aluminum Cherokee rims electrically welded to the face of
the hub. Several times. To the point of new rims needed....

I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums or rotors now.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's