Dave Milne

I use a product called coppaslip on the front of hubs - its like a high
melting point grease with copper particles in it, or just ordinary grease if
I don't have it. Works great.

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41682492.17C2DFAC@sympatico.ca...
> I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums ..

Dave Milne

I use a product called coppaslip on the front of hubs - its like a high
melting point grease with copper particles in it, or just ordinary grease if
I don't have it. Works great.

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41682492.17C2DFAC@sympatico.ca...
> I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums ..

Dave Milne

I use a product called coppaslip on the front of hubs - its like a high
melting point grease with copper particles in it, or just ordinary grease if
I don't have it. Works great.

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41682492.17C2DFAC@sympatico.ca...
> I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums ..

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

I've never seen that on any of thousands of wheels I've taken off,
must be the salt on your Great White North, roads.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have seen aluminum Cherokee rims electrically welded to the face of
> the hub. Several times. To the point of new rims needed....
>
> I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums or rotors now.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

I've never seen that on any of thousands of wheels I've taken off,
must be the salt on your Great White North, roads.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have seen aluminum Cherokee rims electrically welded to the face of
> the hub. Several times. To the point of new rims needed....
>
> I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums or rotors now.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

I've never seen that on any of thousands of wheels I've taken off,
must be the salt on your Great White North, roads.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have seen aluminum Cherokee rims electrically welded to the face of
> the hub. Several times. To the point of new rims needed....
>
> I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums or rotors now.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Endo

The company I work for makes a nice chisel handle in our safety products
group: http://tinyurl.com/43un6

Shawn

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:4lU9d.17467$tU4.752@okepread06...
> RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
>> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
>> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
>> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
>> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
>> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
>> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
>> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
>> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
>> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
>> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
>> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
>
> Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
> material like a steel hammer will.
>
>> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
>> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
>> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
>> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
>> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
>> first.) Be carefull.
>
> Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
> bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
>
> --
> DougW
>

Endo

The company I work for makes a nice chisel handle in our safety products
group: http://tinyurl.com/43un6

Shawn

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:4lU9d.17467$tU4.752@okepread06...
> RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
>> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
>> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
>> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
>> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
>> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
>> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
>> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
>> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
>> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
>> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
>> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
>
> Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
> material like a steel hammer will.
>
>> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
>> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
>> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
>> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
>> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
>> first.) Be carefull.
>
> Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
> bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
>
> --
> DougW
>

Endo

The company I work for makes a nice chisel handle in our safety products
group: http://tinyurl.com/43un6

Shawn

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:4lU9d.17467$tU4.752@okepread06...
> RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
>> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
>> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
>> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
>> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
>> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
>> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
>> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
>> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
>> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
>> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
>> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
>
> Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
> material like a steel hammer will.
>
>> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
>> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
>> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
>> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
>> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
>> first.) Be carefull.
>
> Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
> bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
>
> --
> DougW
>

Dave Milne

Error:

The HAHTsite Scenario Server reports the following:
The requested application session has timed out


--
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Endo" <me@oh.my> wrote in message
news:8eKdnfvqrP3X3fXcRVn-hg@comcast.com...
> The company I work for makes a nice chisel handle in our safety products
> group: http://tinyurl.com/43un6
>
> Shawn
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:4lU9d.17467$tU4.752@okepread06...
> > RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> >> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
> >> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
> >> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
> >> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
> >> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
> >> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
> >> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
> >> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for
confined
> >> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
> >> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
> >> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
> >
> > Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
> > material like a steel hammer will.
> >
> >> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
> >> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
> >> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
> >> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
> >> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care
of
> >> first.) Be carefull.
> >
> > Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
> > bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
>
>