Stuck Rotor
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
> it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
> hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
--
DougW
> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
> it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
> hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
> it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
> hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
--
DougW
> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
> it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
> hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
handle. That baby is a serious contender.
BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
first.) Be carefull.
DougW wrote:
> DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
>
>>00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>>it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>>hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>
>
> Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
>
> When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
> are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
> this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
> A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
>
relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
handle. That baby is a serious contender.
BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
first.) Be carefull.
DougW wrote:
> DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
>
>>00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>>it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>>hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>
>
> Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
>
> When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
> are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
> this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
> A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
handle. That baby is a serious contender.
BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
first.) Be carefull.
DougW wrote:
> DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
>
>>00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>>it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>>hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>
>
> Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
>
> When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
> are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
> this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
> A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
>
relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
handle. That baby is a serious contender.
BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
first.) Be carefull.
DougW wrote:
> DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
>
>>00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>>it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>>hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>
>
> Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
>
> When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
> are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
> this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
> A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
handle. That baby is a serious contender.
BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
first.) Be carefull.
DougW wrote:
> DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
>
>>00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>>it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>>hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>
>
> Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
>
> When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
> are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
> this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
> A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
>
relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
handle. That baby is a serious contender.
BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
first.) Be carefull.
DougW wrote:
> DANFXR did pass the time by typing:
>
>>00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>>it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>>hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>
>
> Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.
>
> When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those
> are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like
> this. http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15901
> A "dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>> it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>> hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>> Thanks
When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
stck rotors.
Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>> it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>> hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>> Thanks
When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
stck rotors.
Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
>> 00 Cherokee,4WD front rotor is frozen on. Soaked it with WD-40 and banged
>> it with a hammer. Wont release. I dont want to damage the hub by repeated
>> hitting. Whats the best way to get this off. Do they make a puller?
>> Thanks
When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are
squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle
shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more
stck rotors.
Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
material like a steel hammer will.
> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
> first.) Be carefull.
Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
--
DougW
> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
material like a steel hammer will.
> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
> first.) Be carefull.
Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stuck Rotor
RoyJ did pass the time by typing:
> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
material like a steel hammer will.
> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
> first.) Be carefull.
Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
--
DougW
> I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a
> relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without
> damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A
> 16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross
> pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will
> definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing
> that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also
> have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined
> spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that
> arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long
> handle. That baby is a serious contender.
Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast
material like a steel hammer will.
> BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was using the 6 pounder to
> really bash on a 12" cold chisel. Missed the head, came down on my
> thumb. Thankfully I was wearing gloves but it still cost me 5 hours in
> the emergancy room to get my 5 stitches and a tetnus shot. (The 5 hours
> included 3 hours of waiting while the SERIOUS injuries got taken care of
> first.) Be carefull.
Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a
bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.
--
DougW
