L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

And don't forget to buy the BMFH and:
http://www.----------.com/impactDriver.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

wraithyjeep wrote:
>
> leslie (Spelling?)tool makes a solid 1 piece socket that is 3/8 impact
> sustainable. it is black sold at a/c delco part stores and some uap stores.

Steve

As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?



"Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> when it gets below zero!
> --
> Dana
>
> --
> 93 YJ
> 90 XJ Ltd.
> ---------------
> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> 82 Cherokee
> 76 Cherokee
>
>
> "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
>> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
>> the
>> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
>> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
>> carefully
>> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
>> it
>> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
>> to
>> release the lock tight it will come out
>>
>> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>>
>>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>>> >
>>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
>>> > tried
>>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
>>> > sockets
>>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
>>> > I gave
>>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
>>> > heads,
>>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
>>> > sealer is
>>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
>>> > know how
>>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
>>> > gun
>>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
>>> > want to
>>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
>>> >
>>> > Dana
>>> > 93 YJ
>>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
>>> > ---------------
>>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>>> > 82 Cherokee
>>> > 76 Cherokee
>>> >
>>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
>>> > and
>>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
>>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
>>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > > Hi Guys,
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
>>> > > a
>>> > > quick
>>> > > fix or two.
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
>>> > > with
>>> > > SS
>>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
>>> > >
>>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
>>> > >
>>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
>>> > > all
>>> > > back
>>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
>>> > > take
>>> > > the
>>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
>>> > > obviously i'm
>>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
>>> > >
>>> > > any suggestions would be great.
>>> > >
>>> > > Steve
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>
>
>

Steve

As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?



"Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> when it gets below zero!
> --
> Dana
>
> --
> 93 YJ
> 90 XJ Ltd.
> ---------------
> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> 82 Cherokee
> 76 Cherokee
>
>
> "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
>> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
>> the
>> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
>> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
>> carefully
>> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
>> it
>> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
>> to
>> release the lock tight it will come out
>>
>> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>>
>>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>>> >
>>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
>>> > tried
>>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
>>> > sockets
>>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
>>> > I gave
>>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
>>> > heads,
>>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
>>> > sealer is
>>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
>>> > know how
>>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
>>> > gun
>>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
>>> > want to
>>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
>>> >
>>> > Dana
>>> > 93 YJ
>>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
>>> > ---------------
>>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>>> > 82 Cherokee
>>> > 76 Cherokee
>>> >
>>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
>>> > and
>>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
>>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
>>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > > Hi Guys,
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
>>> > > a
>>> > > quick
>>> > > fix or two.
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
>>> > > with
>>> > > SS
>>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
>>> > >
>>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
>>> > >
>>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
>>> > > all
>>> > > back
>>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
>>> > > take
>>> > > the
>>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
>>> > > obviously i'm
>>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
>>> > >
>>> > > any suggestions would be great.
>>> > >
>>> > > Steve
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>
>
>

Steve

As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?



"Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> when it gets below zero!
> --
> Dana
>
> --
> 93 YJ
> 90 XJ Ltd.
> ---------------
> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> 82 Cherokee
> 76 Cherokee
>
>
> "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
>> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
>> the
>> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
>> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
>> carefully
>> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
>> it
>> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
>> to
>> release the lock tight it will come out
>>
>> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>>
>>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>>> >
>>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
>>> > tried
>>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
>>> > sockets
>>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
>>> > I gave
>>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
>>> > heads,
>>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
>>> > sealer is
>>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
>>> > know how
>>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
>>> > gun
>>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
>>> > want to
>>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
>>> >
>>> > Dana
>>> > 93 YJ
>>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
>>> > ---------------
>>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>>> > 82 Cherokee
>>> > 76 Cherokee
>>> >
>>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
>>> > and
>>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
>>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
>>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > > Hi Guys,
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
>>> > > a
>>> > > quick
>>> > > fix or two.
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
>>> > > with
>>> > > SS
>>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
>>> > >
>>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
>>> > >
>>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
>>> > > all
>>> > > back
>>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
>>> > > take
>>> > > the
>>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
>>> > > obviously i'm
>>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
>>> > >
>>> > > any suggestions would be great.
>>> > >
>>> > > Steve
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>
>
>

Steve

As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?



"Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> when it gets below zero!
> --
> Dana
>
> --
> 93 YJ
> 90 XJ Ltd.
> ---------------
> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> 82 Cherokee
> 76 Cherokee
>
>
> "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
>> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
>> the
>> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
>> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
>> carefully
>> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
>> it
>> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
>> to
>> release the lock tight it will come out
>>
>> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>>
>>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>>> >
>>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
>>> > tried
>>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
>>> > sockets
>>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
>>> > I gave
>>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
>>> > heads,
>>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
>>> > sealer is
>>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
>>> > know how
>>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
>>> > gun
>>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
>>> > want to
>>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
>>> >
>>> > Dana
>>> > 93 YJ
>>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
>>> > ---------------
>>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>>> > 82 Cherokee
>>> > 76 Cherokee
>>> >
>>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
>>> > and
>>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
>>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
>>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > > Hi Guys,
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
>>> > > a
>>> > > quick
>>> > > fix or two.
>>> > >
>>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
>>> > > with
>>> > > SS
>>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
>>> > >
>>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
>>> > >
>>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
>>> > > all
>>> > > back
>>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
>>> > > take
>>> > > the
>>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
>>> > > obviously i'm
>>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
>>> > >
>>> > > any suggestions would be great.
>>> > >
>>> > > Steve
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>
>
>

Mike Romain

In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will
let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at
all.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve wrote:
>
> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?
>
> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> > when it gets below zero!
> > --
> > Dana
> >
> > --
> > 93 YJ
> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> > ---------------
> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> > 82 Cherokee
> > 76 Cherokee
> >
> >
> > "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> > news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
> >> the
> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
> >> carefully
> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
> >> it
> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
> >> to
> >> release the lock tight it will come out
> >>
> >> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >>
> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>>
> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
> >>> > tried
> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
> >>> > sockets
> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
> >>> > I gave
> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
> >>> > heads,
> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
> >>> > sealer is
> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
> >>> > know how
> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
> >>> > gun
> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
> >>> > want to
> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
> >>> >
> >>> > Dana
> >>> > 93 YJ
> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> >>> > ---------------
> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> >>> > 82 Cherokee
> >>> > 76 Cherokee
> >>> >
> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
> >>> > and
> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
> >>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
> >>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >>> > > Hi Guys,
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
> >>> > > a
> >>> > > quick
> >>> > > fix or two.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
> >>> > > with
> >>> > > SS
> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
> >>> > > all
> >>> > > back
> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
> >>> > > take
> >>> > > the
> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
> >>> > > obviously i'm
> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
> >>> > >
> >>> > > any suggestions would be great.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Steve
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>
> >
> >

Mike Romain

In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will
let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at
all.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve wrote:
>
> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?
>
> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> > when it gets below zero!
> > --
> > Dana
> >
> > --
> > 93 YJ
> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> > ---------------
> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> > 82 Cherokee
> > 76 Cherokee
> >
> >
> > "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> > news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
> >> the
> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
> >> carefully
> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
> >> it
> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
> >> to
> >> release the lock tight it will come out
> >>
> >> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >>
> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>>
> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
> >>> > tried
> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
> >>> > sockets
> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
> >>> > I gave
> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
> >>> > heads,
> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
> >>> > sealer is
> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
> >>> > know how
> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
> >>> > gun
> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
> >>> > want to
> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
> >>> >
> >>> > Dana
> >>> > 93 YJ
> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> >>> > ---------------
> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> >>> > 82 Cherokee
> >>> > 76 Cherokee
> >>> >
> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
> >>> > and
> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
> >>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
> >>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >>> > > Hi Guys,
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
> >>> > > a
> >>> > > quick
> >>> > > fix or two.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
> >>> > > with
> >>> > > SS
> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
> >>> > > all
> >>> > > back
> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
> >>> > > take
> >>> > > the
> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
> >>> > > obviously i'm
> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
> >>> > >
> >>> > > any suggestions would be great.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Steve
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>
> >
> >

Mike Romain

In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will
let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at
all.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve wrote:
>
> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?
>
> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> > when it gets below zero!
> > --
> > Dana
> >
> > --
> > 93 YJ
> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> > ---------------
> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> > 82 Cherokee
> > 76 Cherokee
> >
> >
> > "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> > news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
> >> the
> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
> >> carefully
> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
> >> it
> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
> >> to
> >> release the lock tight it will come out
> >>
> >> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >>
> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>>
> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
> >>> > tried
> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
> >>> > sockets
> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
> >>> > I gave
> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
> >>> > heads,
> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
> >>> > sealer is
> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
> >>> > know how
> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
> >>> > gun
> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
> >>> > want to
> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
> >>> >
> >>> > Dana
> >>> > 93 YJ
> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> >>> > ---------------
> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> >>> > 82 Cherokee
> >>> > 76 Cherokee
> >>> >
> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
> >>> > and
> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
> >>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
> >>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >>> > > Hi Guys,
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
> >>> > > a
> >>> > > quick
> >>> > > fix or two.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
> >>> > > with
> >>> > > SS
> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
> >>> > > all
> >>> > > back
> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
> >>> > > take
> >>> > > the
> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
> >>> > > obviously i'm
> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
> >>> > >
> >>> > > any suggestions would be great.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Steve
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>
> >
> >

Mike Romain

In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will
let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at
all.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve wrote:
>
> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit
> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?
>
> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the
> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was
> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just
> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take
> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here
> > when it gets below zero!
> > --
> > Dana
> >
> > --
> > 93 YJ
> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> > ---------------
> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> > 82 Cherokee
> > 76 Cherokee
> >
> >
> > "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
> > news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit with
> >> the
> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it out
> >> carefully
> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from what
> >> it
> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little heat
> >> to
> >> release the lock tight it will come out
> >>
> >> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >>
> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>>
> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I
> >>> > tried
> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
> >>> > sockets
> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later,
> >>> > I gave
> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
> >>> > heads,
> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
> >>> > sealer is
> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
> >>> > know how
> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or
> >>> > gun
> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
> >>> > want to
> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
> >>> >
> >>> > Dana
> >>> > 93 YJ
> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
> >>> > ---------------
> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
> >>> > 82 Cherokee
> >>> > 76 Cherokee
> >>> >
> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
> >>> > and
> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
> >>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
> >>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >>> > > Hi Guys,
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may have
> >>> > > a
> >>> > > quick
> >>> > > fix or two.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93 YJ
> >>> > > with
> >>> > > SS
> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get them
> >>> > > all
> >>> > > back
> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying to
> >>> > > take
> >>> > > the
> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
> >>> > > obviously i'm
> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
> >>> > >
> >>> > > any suggestions would be great.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Steve
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>
> >
> >

Steve

Slice the paint with a razor first? Draw around the torx head?


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429477A8.EBD346BE@sympatico.ca...
> In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will
> let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at
> all.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>> As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx
>> bit
>> and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt?
>> how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?
>>
>> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
>> news:x_Sje.12054$bD5.7593@fe07.lga...
>> > How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would
>> > the
>> > soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this
>> > was
>> > a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere
>> > that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like
>> > 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I
>> > just
>> > gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I
>> > take
>> > the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up
>> > here
>> > when it gets below zero!
>> > --
>> > Dana
>> >
>> > --
>> > 93 YJ
>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
>> > ---------------
>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>> > 82 Cherokee
>> > 76 Cherokee
>> >
>> >
>> > "mic canic" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
>> > news:428FE4C4.26778A52@cac.net...
>> >> the left spin drill bits are the best way to if you can get the kit
>> >> with
>> >> the
>> >> matching extractors but when push comes to shove
>> >> take a drill bit that is i/8 inch bigger than the torqs and drill it
>> >> out
>> >> carefully
>> >> so it just pops thru the hole then there is enough hanging out from
>> >> what
>> >> it
>> >> holding in.a good and new visegrip can get a bite and with a little
>> >> heat
>> >> to
>> >> release the lock tight it will come out
>> >>
>> >> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Next time buy Craftsman or Snap-On.
>> >>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>>
>> >>> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>> >>> >
>> >>> > As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer.
>> >>> > I
>> >>> > tried
>> >>> > the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx
>> >>> > sockets
>> >>> > (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint
>> >>> > later,
>> >>> > I gave
>> >>> > up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any
>> >>> > heads,
>> >>> > just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread
>> >>> > sealer is
>> >>> > evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't
>> >>> > know how
>> >>> > you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron
>> >>> > or
>> >>> > gun
>> >>> > held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may
>> >>> > want to
>> >>> > talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.
>> >>> >
>> >>> > Dana
>> >>> > 93 YJ
>> >>> > 90 XJ Ltd.
>> >>> > ---------------
>> >>> > 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>> >>> > 82 Cherokee
>> >>> > 76 Cherokee
>> >>> >
>> >>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to
>> >>> > us
>> >>> > and
>> >>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28,
>> >>> > 2005
>> >>> > "diablo" <diablo@msn.com> wrote in message
>> >>> > news:JFNje.218$lI2.177@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> >>> > > Hi Guys,
>> >>> > >
>> >>> > > i'm sure you've all encountered this problem, and therefore may
>> >>> > > have
>> >>> > > a
>> >>> > > quick
>> >>> > > fix or two.
>> >>> > >
>> >>> > > i'm replacing all the hinges, catches, loops and mirrors on a 93
>> >>> > > YJ
>> >>> > > with
>> >>> > > SS
>> >>> > > pieces replacing the original pieces.
>> >>> > >
>> >>> > > took my torx heads and wrench, took one out no problem.
>> >>> > >
>> >>> > > next one ended up stripped..and the next one...managed to get
>> >>> > > them
>> >>> > > all
>> >>> > > back
>> >>> > > in til i fix this dilema. i used small movements, wasn't trying
>> >>> > > to
>> >>> > > take
>> >>> > > the
>> >>> > > screw out in one go...seems like the metal is so darn soft.
>> >>> > > obviously i'm
>> >>> > > going to be taking out about a dozen plus, so...
>> >>> > >
>> >>> > > any suggestions would be great.
>> >>> > >
>> >>> > > Steve
>> >>> > >
>> >>> > >
>> >>
>> >
>> >