Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> Do you have a catalytic converter? Is it clogged?
>
> You may have other problems, but if the engine can't breathe, you don't go.
Yes, cat converter replaced 2 years ago to pass smog. I've got plenty
of air going in, and a relatively new cat and Flowmaster.

 

Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> Do you have a catalytic converter? Is it clogged?
>
> You may have other problems, but if the engine can't breathe, you don't go.
Yes, cat converter replaced 2 years ago to pass smog. I've got plenty
of air going in, and a relatively new cat and Flowmaster.

 

Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> Do you have a catalytic converter? Is it clogged?
>
> You may have other problems, but if the engine can't breathe, you don't go.
Yes, cat converter replaced 2 years ago to pass smog. I've got plenty
of air going in, and a relatively new cat and Flowmaster.

 

Hmmm
You took it to the "EXPERTS" and they told you what was leaking, how much it
would cost to repair it, did the repair but that was not the problem.
Should you have to pay for it?
JMHO but they made the mistake and I think they should not have charged you
full price! Maybe a diagnostic fee but not the full price of their mistake.
If they said you needed the engine, you OKed it, the engine got installed
but the problems remained..............would you pay?

They should have cleaned up the areas and then examined things well BEFORE
starting any sort of repairs!

Was a vacuum gauge installed so that the sticky valves could be diagnosed?
I will assumed that a compression test would tell you little.
I will also assume that the valve springs are all in good shape. I have
seen other vehicles with weak/broken valve springs.

And no you need to read and answer here! lol

Find another shop!
JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"D Gavilanes" <gavilan1@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:yAhgi.1409$zA4.1337@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Help! I have a YJ that is suffering from no more "pickup" on the freeway,
> except when really punched, terrible mileage (was 13.5 to 14 mpg, now 9.8
> mpg), and load exhaust noise in my manifold that sounds like a cracked
> pipe (but is not). I thought that I'd be changing out the Banks
> TorqueTube header for the fourth time, but no, it's just my exhaust is
> loud in my manifold, probably because my (ex) mechanic indicates that #3
> and #4 lifters are sticking and slow responding. I took the Jeep in
> because they advised me that a slow oil leak under my engine was a rear
> main about to go out. So when this engine noise added itself to my
> recently poor mileage (which changing plugs did not affect), I decided to
> throw some money at the YJ and get it fixed. They pulled the valve cover
> off, ID'd noisy and sticking lifters, and one that tapped loud, only one
> in a while, (sounding like the engine wanted to throw a rod), and decided
> that since the lifters and valves could not be serviced from above, that
> they'd just button it up again (1 hr. labor + gasket), because they didn't
> want to pull the head and have it worked on, since it might cause other
> problems. Hmmm...
>
> They went ahead and changed the rear main seals (another $350 or so
> labor), upper and lower, buttoned everything up, and got it back to me
> (after one day rental car, my wallet). Next day, same oil leak. Took
> it back. They thought that the oil pan gasket didn't seal, and resealed
> it. Gave it back to me. Next day it leaked. Took it back.
>
> Gee, it wasn't the rear main seal after all. Turns out, they tell me,
> that the back of the block on my 4.0L has oil plugs, and that one or both
> of those were leaking. (They actually implied that the rear main seal job
> wasn't necessary) Have to pull my tranny back to get to those plugs.
> Another rental car, another day. Get the bad news that my local Jeep
> dealer service department jacked up my tranny filler tube when they
> serviced it three and a half years ago, breaking off the tip up to the
> O-ring, inserting it deeper into the bell housing, and Permatexing the
> crap out of the junction. Turns out my tranny dipstick sits 2.5" deeper
> than it should for the past 3.5 years, now my tranny fluid looks like old
> engine oil, and they must service my tranny, since they're already there.
> New filler tube and diptsick, new day of rental car, probably another $350
> labor. Next day, turns out oil plugs are fine, no leak. Small tranny leak
> "squirting" onto rear of engine block, looking like engine oil leak. Will
> they eat the rear main job and dicking around with the oil plugs? Yeah,
> right.
>
> Finally got my YJ back. Still sounds like **** (just like a badly cracked
> manifold), noisy and embarrassing as hell, with a "put-put" quality to the
> noise that makes me feel like I'm driving an Autopia car at the happiest
> Place on Earth, still has crappy mileage, and is no longer an enjoyable
> ride. I just put new 33s and AR rims on it, installed new Warn bumpers
> front and rear (including tire carrier custom modified to hold trail
> rack), and looked forward to enjoying my YJ this summer. Since I got my
> YJ back from the shop two weeks ago, I put 28 miles on it driving it back
> home, and haven't moved it since. Extreme depression going on over here.
> I'm now driving my '99 durango to and from work, and with its 5.2L RAM
> V-8, I'm getting 13.5 to 15 mpg. It's now cheaper to drive my gas
> guzzling Durango than my straight six 4.0L YJ. When I finally got the
> bill, I was shocked. They actually charged me for everything. Slightly
> over $1,250, as I recall. I went from feeling like I was in very trusted
> hands, to feeling like hands were in my back pocket. Funny, the owner had
> the conscience to call me on the phone a few days later (since I work next
> door), and ask why I wasn't driving the YJ. I tried to be polite to him,
> but I wanted to chew him a new MAck truck sized rear main seal.
>
> So here's my dilemma. Do I get have the valves pulled and sent out, or
> will this really cause me more problems down the trail? I take care of
> this Jeep like you can't imagine, and the mechanic next door knows it. It
> looks relatively new, but it's a '93 with about 189K on it. Only work
> ever done inside was a manifold cleanout before replacing it three times.
> Any advice here is appreciated. I need to get this smogged and registered
> in the next week or two. Sorry to bring such a lame story to the group.
> I'm really bummed out.
>
> Please e-mail me, since I don't visit here very often anymore (too many
> good memories, and lately way too much crap about goats). Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Gavilanes
> Garden Grove, CA.

 

Hmmm
You took it to the "EXPERTS" and they told you what was leaking, how much it
would cost to repair it, did the repair but that was not the problem.
Should you have to pay for it?
JMHO but they made the mistake and I think they should not have charged you
full price! Maybe a diagnostic fee but not the full price of their mistake.
If they said you needed the engine, you OKed it, the engine got installed
but the problems remained..............would you pay?

They should have cleaned up the areas and then examined things well BEFORE
starting any sort of repairs!

Was a vacuum gauge installed so that the sticky valves could be diagnosed?
I will assumed that a compression test would tell you little.
I will also assume that the valve springs are all in good shape. I have
seen other vehicles with weak/broken valve springs.

And no you need to read and answer here! lol

Find another shop!
JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"D Gavilanes" <gavilan1@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:yAhgi.1409$zA4.1337@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Help! I have a YJ that is suffering from no more "pickup" on the freeway,
> except when really punched, terrible mileage (was 13.5 to 14 mpg, now 9.8
> mpg), and load exhaust noise in my manifold that sounds like a cracked
> pipe (but is not). I thought that I'd be changing out the Banks
> TorqueTube header for the fourth time, but no, it's just my exhaust is
> loud in my manifold, probably because my (ex) mechanic indicates that #3
> and #4 lifters are sticking and slow responding. I took the Jeep in
> because they advised me that a slow oil leak under my engine was a rear
> main about to go out. So when this engine noise added itself to my
> recently poor mileage (which changing plugs did not affect), I decided to
> throw some money at the YJ and get it fixed. They pulled the valve cover
> off, ID'd noisy and sticking lifters, and one that tapped loud, only one
> in a while, (sounding like the engine wanted to throw a rod), and decided
> that since the lifters and valves could not be serviced from above, that
> they'd just button it up again (1 hr. labor + gasket), because they didn't
> want to pull the head and have it worked on, since it might cause other
> problems. Hmmm...
>
> They went ahead and changed the rear main seals (another $350 or so
> labor), upper and lower, buttoned everything up, and got it back to me
> (after one day rental car, my wallet). Next day, same oil leak. Took
> it back. They thought that the oil pan gasket didn't seal, and resealed
> it. Gave it back to me. Next day it leaked. Took it back.
>
> Gee, it wasn't the rear main seal after all. Turns out, they tell me,
> that the back of the block on my 4.0L has oil plugs, and that one or both
> of those were leaking. (They actually implied that the rear main seal job
> wasn't necessary) Have to pull my tranny back to get to those plugs.
> Another rental car, another day. Get the bad news that my local Jeep
> dealer service department jacked up my tranny filler tube when they
> serviced it three and a half years ago, breaking off the tip up to the
> O-ring, inserting it deeper into the bell housing, and Permatexing the
> crap out of the junction. Turns out my tranny dipstick sits 2.5" deeper
> than it should for the past 3.5 years, now my tranny fluid looks like old
> engine oil, and they must service my tranny, since they're already there.
> New filler tube and diptsick, new day of rental car, probably another $350
> labor. Next day, turns out oil plugs are fine, no leak. Small tranny leak
> "squirting" onto rear of engine block, looking like engine oil leak. Will
> they eat the rear main job and dicking around with the oil plugs? Yeah,
> right.
>
> Finally got my YJ back. Still sounds like **** (just like a badly cracked
> manifold), noisy and embarrassing as hell, with a "put-put" quality to the
> noise that makes me feel like I'm driving an Autopia car at the happiest
> Place on Earth, still has crappy mileage, and is no longer an enjoyable
> ride. I just put new 33s and AR rims on it, installed new Warn bumpers
> front and rear (including tire carrier custom modified to hold trail
> rack), and looked forward to enjoying my YJ this summer. Since I got my
> YJ back from the shop two weeks ago, I put 28 miles on it driving it back
> home, and haven't moved it since. Extreme depression going on over here.
> I'm now driving my '99 durango to and from work, and with its 5.2L RAM
> V-8, I'm getting 13.5 to 15 mpg. It's now cheaper to drive my gas
> guzzling Durango than my straight six 4.0L YJ. When I finally got the
> bill, I was shocked. They actually charged me for everything. Slightly
> over $1,250, as I recall. I went from feeling like I was in very trusted
> hands, to feeling like hands were in my back pocket. Funny, the owner had
> the conscience to call me on the phone a few days later (since I work next
> door), and ask why I wasn't driving the YJ. I tried to be polite to him,
> but I wanted to chew him a new MAck truck sized rear main seal.
>
> So here's my dilemma. Do I get have the valves pulled and sent out, or
> will this really cause me more problems down the trail? I take care of
> this Jeep like you can't imagine, and the mechanic next door knows it. It
> looks relatively new, but it's a '93 with about 189K on it. Only work
> ever done inside was a manifold cleanout before replacing it three times.
> Any advice here is appreciated. I need to get this smogged and registered
> in the next week or two. Sorry to bring such a lame story to the group.
> I'm really bummed out.
>
> Please e-mail me, since I don't visit here very often anymore (too many
> good memories, and lately way too much crap about goats). Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Gavilanes
> Garden Grove, CA.

 

Hmmm
You took it to the "EXPERTS" and they told you what was leaking, how much it
would cost to repair it, did the repair but that was not the problem.
Should you have to pay for it?
JMHO but they made the mistake and I think they should not have charged you
full price! Maybe a diagnostic fee but not the full price of their mistake.
If they said you needed the engine, you OKed it, the engine got installed
but the problems remained..............would you pay?

They should have cleaned up the areas and then examined things well BEFORE
starting any sort of repairs!

Was a vacuum gauge installed so that the sticky valves could be diagnosed?
I will assumed that a compression test would tell you little.
I will also assume that the valve springs are all in good shape. I have
seen other vehicles with weak/broken valve springs.

And no you need to read and answer here! lol

Find another shop!
JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"D Gavilanes" <gavilan1@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:yAhgi.1409$zA4.1337@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Help! I have a YJ that is suffering from no more "pickup" on the freeway,
> except when really punched, terrible mileage (was 13.5 to 14 mpg, now 9.8
> mpg), and load exhaust noise in my manifold that sounds like a cracked
> pipe (but is not). I thought that I'd be changing out the Banks
> TorqueTube header for the fourth time, but no, it's just my exhaust is
> loud in my manifold, probably because my (ex) mechanic indicates that #3
> and #4 lifters are sticking and slow responding. I took the Jeep in
> because they advised me that a slow oil leak under my engine was a rear
> main about to go out. So when this engine noise added itself to my
> recently poor mileage (which changing plugs did not affect), I decided to
> throw some money at the YJ and get it fixed. They pulled the valve cover
> off, ID'd noisy and sticking lifters, and one that tapped loud, only one
> in a while, (sounding like the engine wanted to throw a rod), and decided
> that since the lifters and valves could not be serviced from above, that
> they'd just button it up again (1 hr. labor + gasket), because they didn't
> want to pull the head and have it worked on, since it might cause other
> problems. Hmmm...
>
> They went ahead and changed the rear main seals (another $350 or so
> labor), upper and lower, buttoned everything up, and got it back to me
> (after one day rental car, my wallet). Next day, same oil leak. Took
> it back. They thought that the oil pan gasket didn't seal, and resealed
> it. Gave it back to me. Next day it leaked. Took it back.
>
> Gee, it wasn't the rear main seal after all. Turns out, they tell me,
> that the back of the block on my 4.0L has oil plugs, and that one or both
> of those were leaking. (They actually implied that the rear main seal job
> wasn't necessary) Have to pull my tranny back to get to those plugs.
> Another rental car, another day. Get the bad news that my local Jeep
> dealer service department jacked up my tranny filler tube when they
> serviced it three and a half years ago, breaking off the tip up to the
> O-ring, inserting it deeper into the bell housing, and Permatexing the
> crap out of the junction. Turns out my tranny dipstick sits 2.5" deeper
> than it should for the past 3.5 years, now my tranny fluid looks like old
> engine oil, and they must service my tranny, since they're already there.
> New filler tube and diptsick, new day of rental car, probably another $350
> labor. Next day, turns out oil plugs are fine, no leak. Small tranny leak
> "squirting" onto rear of engine block, looking like engine oil leak. Will
> they eat the rear main job and dicking around with the oil plugs? Yeah,
> right.
>
> Finally got my YJ back. Still sounds like **** (just like a badly cracked
> manifold), noisy and embarrassing as hell, with a "put-put" quality to the
> noise that makes me feel like I'm driving an Autopia car at the happiest
> Place on Earth, still has crappy mileage, and is no longer an enjoyable
> ride. I just put new 33s and AR rims on it, installed new Warn bumpers
> front and rear (including tire carrier custom modified to hold trail
> rack), and looked forward to enjoying my YJ this summer. Since I got my
> YJ back from the shop two weeks ago, I put 28 miles on it driving it back
> home, and haven't moved it since. Extreme depression going on over here.
> I'm now driving my '99 durango to and from work, and with its 5.2L RAM
> V-8, I'm getting 13.5 to 15 mpg. It's now cheaper to drive my gas
> guzzling Durango than my straight six 4.0L YJ. When I finally got the
> bill, I was shocked. They actually charged me for everything. Slightly
> over $1,250, as I recall. I went from feeling like I was in very trusted
> hands, to feeling like hands were in my back pocket. Funny, the owner had
> the conscience to call me on the phone a few days later (since I work next
> door), and ask why I wasn't driving the YJ. I tried to be polite to him,
> but I wanted to chew him a new MAck truck sized rear main seal.
>
> So here's my dilemma. Do I get have the valves pulled and sent out, or
> will this really cause me more problems down the trail? I take care of
> this Jeep like you can't imagine, and the mechanic next door knows it. It
> looks relatively new, but it's a '93 with about 189K on it. Only work
> ever done inside was a manifold cleanout before replacing it three times.
> Any advice here is appreciated. I need to get this smogged and registered
> in the next week or two. Sorry to bring such a lame story to the group.
> I'm really bummed out.
>
> Please e-mail me, since I don't visit here very often anymore (too many
> good memories, and lately way too much crap about goats). Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Gavilanes
> Garden Grove, CA.

 

Hmmm
You took it to the "EXPERTS" and they told you what was leaking, how much it
would cost to repair it, did the repair but that was not the problem.
Should you have to pay for it?
JMHO but they made the mistake and I think they should not have charged you
full price! Maybe a diagnostic fee but not the full price of their mistake.
If they said you needed the engine, you OKed it, the engine got installed
but the problems remained..............would you pay?

They should have cleaned up the areas and then examined things well BEFORE
starting any sort of repairs!

Was a vacuum gauge installed so that the sticky valves could be diagnosed?
I will assumed that a compression test would tell you little.
I will also assume that the valve springs are all in good shape. I have
seen other vehicles with weak/broken valve springs.

And no you need to read and answer here! lol

Find another shop!
JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"D Gavilanes" <gavilan1@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:yAhgi.1409$zA4.1337@newsread3.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Help! I have a YJ that is suffering from no more "pickup" on the freeway,
> except when really punched, terrible mileage (was 13.5 to 14 mpg, now 9.8
> mpg), and load exhaust noise in my manifold that sounds like a cracked
> pipe (but is not). I thought that I'd be changing out the Banks
> TorqueTube header for the fourth time, but no, it's just my exhaust is
> loud in my manifold, probably because my (ex) mechanic indicates that #3
> and #4 lifters are sticking and slow responding. I took the Jeep in
> because they advised me that a slow oil leak under my engine was a rear
> main about to go out. So when this engine noise added itself to my
> recently poor mileage (which changing plugs did not affect), I decided to
> throw some money at the YJ and get it fixed. They pulled the valve cover
> off, ID'd noisy and sticking lifters, and one that tapped loud, only one
> in a while, (sounding like the engine wanted to throw a rod), and decided
> that since the lifters and valves could not be serviced from above, that
> they'd just button it up again (1 hr. labor + gasket), because they didn't
> want to pull the head and have it worked on, since it might cause other
> problems. Hmmm...
>
> They went ahead and changed the rear main seals (another $350 or so
> labor), upper and lower, buttoned everything up, and got it back to me
> (after one day rental car, my wallet). Next day, same oil leak. Took
> it back. They thought that the oil pan gasket didn't seal, and resealed
> it. Gave it back to me. Next day it leaked. Took it back.
>
> Gee, it wasn't the rear main seal after all. Turns out, they tell me,
> that the back of the block on my 4.0L has oil plugs, and that one or both
> of those were leaking. (They actually implied that the rear main seal job
> wasn't necessary) Have to pull my tranny back to get to those plugs.
> Another rental car, another day. Get the bad news that my local Jeep
> dealer service department jacked up my tranny filler tube when they
> serviced it three and a half years ago, breaking off the tip up to the
> O-ring, inserting it deeper into the bell housing, and Permatexing the
> crap out of the junction. Turns out my tranny dipstick sits 2.5" deeper
> than it should for the past 3.5 years, now my tranny fluid looks like old
> engine oil, and they must service my tranny, since they're already there.
> New filler tube and diptsick, new day of rental car, probably another $350
> labor. Next day, turns out oil plugs are fine, no leak. Small tranny leak
> "squirting" onto rear of engine block, looking like engine oil leak. Will
> they eat the rear main job and dicking around with the oil plugs? Yeah,
> right.
>
> Finally got my YJ back. Still sounds like **** (just like a badly cracked
> manifold), noisy and embarrassing as hell, with a "put-put" quality to the
> noise that makes me feel like I'm driving an Autopia car at the happiest
> Place on Earth, still has crappy mileage, and is no longer an enjoyable
> ride. I just put new 33s and AR rims on it, installed new Warn bumpers
> front and rear (including tire carrier custom modified to hold trail
> rack), and looked forward to enjoying my YJ this summer. Since I got my
> YJ back from the shop two weeks ago, I put 28 miles on it driving it back
> home, and haven't moved it since. Extreme depression going on over here.
> I'm now driving my '99 durango to and from work, and with its 5.2L RAM
> V-8, I'm getting 13.5 to 15 mpg. It's now cheaper to drive my gas
> guzzling Durango than my straight six 4.0L YJ. When I finally got the
> bill, I was shocked. They actually charged me for everything. Slightly
> over $1,250, as I recall. I went from feeling like I was in very trusted
> hands, to feeling like hands were in my back pocket. Funny, the owner had
> the conscience to call me on the phone a few days later (since I work next
> door), and ask why I wasn't driving the YJ. I tried to be polite to him,
> but I wanted to chew him a new MAck truck sized rear main seal.
>
> So here's my dilemma. Do I get have the valves pulled and sent out, or
> will this really cause me more problems down the trail? I take care of
> this Jeep like you can't imagine, and the mechanic next door knows it. It
> looks relatively new, but it's a '93 with about 189K on it. Only work
> ever done inside was a manifold cleanout before replacing it three times.
> Any advice here is appreciated. I need to get this smogged and registered
> in the next week or two. Sorry to bring such a lame story to the group.
> I'm really bummed out.
>
> Please e-mail me, since I don't visit here very often anymore (too many
> good memories, and lately way too much crap about goats). Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Gavilanes
> Garden Grove, CA.

 

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 04:38:08 GMT, Doug Gavilanes
<gavilan1@earthlink.net> wrote:

>Yes, cat converter replaced 2 years ago to pass smog. I've got plenty
>of air going in, and a relatively new cat and Flowmaster.

A few things here, did you ever do a compression test of engine? Also
headers and low restriction exhaust togheter with big tires and stock
tall gear can sometimes realy hurt MPG. At this stage of the game I
would do a compression check first and maybe a vacuum check too with a
gauge.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 04:38:08 GMT, Doug Gavilanes
<gavilan1@earthlink.net> wrote:

>Yes, cat converter replaced 2 years ago to pass smog. I've got plenty
>of air going in, and a relatively new cat and Flowmaster.

A few things here, did you ever do a compression test of engine? Also
headers and low restriction exhaust togheter with big tires and stock
tall gear can sometimes realy hurt MPG. At this stage of the game I
would do a compression check first and maybe a vacuum check too with a
gauge.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 04:38:08 GMT, Doug Gavilanes
<gavilan1@earthlink.net> wrote:

>Yes, cat converter replaced 2 years ago to pass smog. I've got plenty
>of air going in, and a relatively new cat and Flowmaster.

A few things here, did you ever do a compression test of engine? Also
headers and low restriction exhaust togheter with big tires and stock
tall gear can sometimes realy hurt MPG. At this stage of the game I
would do a compression check first and maybe a vacuum check too with a
gauge.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com