stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
01-18-2004, 09:56 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
for the bolts. What do you think of this?
could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
for the bolts. What do you think of this?
01-18-2004, 10:28 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
last a long time.
When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
Expensive for the high grade ones too.
I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
things on tight, but still protects the threads.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Alan Haley wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
> could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
> would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
> would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
> donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
> to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
> for the bolts. What do you think of this?
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
last a long time.
When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
Expensive for the high grade ones too.
I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
things on tight, but still protects the threads.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Alan Haley wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
> could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
> would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
> would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
> donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
> to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
> for the bolts. What do you think of this?
01-18-2004, 10:28 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
last a long time.
When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
Expensive for the high grade ones too.
I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
things on tight, but still protects the threads.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Alan Haley wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
> could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
> would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
> would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
> donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
> to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
> for the bolts. What do you think of this?
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
last a long time.
When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
Expensive for the high grade ones too.
I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
things on tight, but still protects the threads.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Alan Haley wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
> could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
> would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
> would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
> donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
> to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
> for the bolts. What do you think of this?
01-18-2004, 10:28 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
last a long time.
When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
Expensive for the high grade ones too.
I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
things on tight, but still protects the threads.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Alan Haley wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
> could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
> would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
> would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
> donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
> to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
> for the bolts. What do you think of this?
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
last a long time.
When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
Expensive for the high grade ones too.
I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
things on tight, but still protects the threads.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Alan Haley wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
> could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
> would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
> would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
> donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
> to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
> for the bolts. What do you think of this?
01-18-2004, 10:55 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
Well, do not use SST on any part of the exhaust system or the engine itself.
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want
something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust
paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body
fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you
won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what
do I know?
--
HarryS
JAFGBR
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca...
> 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
>
> On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
> themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
> application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
> last a long time.
>
> When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
> Expensive for the high grade ones too.
>
> I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
> were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
> on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
> same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
> things on tight, but still protects the threads.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Alan Haley wrote:
> >
> > I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where
I
> > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think
this
> > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right
now
> > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the
little
> > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have
access
> > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be
said
> > for the bolts. What do you think of this?
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want
something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust
paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body
fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you
won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what
do I know?
--
HarryS
JAFGBR
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca...
> 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
>
> On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
> themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
> application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
> last a long time.
>
> When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
> Expensive for the high grade ones too.
>
> I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
> were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
> on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
> same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
> things on tight, but still protects the threads.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Alan Haley wrote:
> >
> > I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where
I
> > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think
this
> > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right
now
> > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the
little
> > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have
access
> > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be
said
> > for the bolts. What do you think of this?
01-18-2004, 10:55 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
Well, do not use SST on any part of the exhaust system or the engine itself.
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want
something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust
paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body
fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you
won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what
do I know?
--
HarryS
JAFGBR
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca...
> 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
>
> On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
> themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
> application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
> last a long time.
>
> When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
> Expensive for the high grade ones too.
>
> I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
> were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
> on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
> same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
> things on tight, but still protects the threads.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Alan Haley wrote:
> >
> > I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where
I
> > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think
this
> > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right
now
> > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the
little
> > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have
access
> > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be
said
> > for the bolts. What do you think of this?
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want
something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust
paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body
fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you
won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what
do I know?
--
HarryS
JAFGBR
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca...
> 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
>
> On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
> themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
> application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
> last a long time.
>
> When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
> Expensive for the high grade ones too.
>
> I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
> were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
> on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
> same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
> things on tight, but still protects the threads.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Alan Haley wrote:
> >
> > I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where
I
> > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think
this
> > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right
now
> > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the
little
> > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have
access
> > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be
said
> > for the bolts. What do you think of this?
01-18-2004, 10:55 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
Well, do not use SST on any part of the exhaust system or the engine itself.
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want
something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust
paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body
fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you
won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what
do I know?
--
HarryS
JAFGBR
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca...
> 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
>
> On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
> themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
> application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
> last a long time.
>
> When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
> Expensive for the high grade ones too.
>
> I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
> were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
> on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
> same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
> things on tight, but still protects the threads.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Alan Haley wrote:
> >
> > I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where
I
> > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think
this
> > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right
now
> > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the
little
> > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have
access
> > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be
said
> > for the bolts. What do you think of this?
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want
something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust
paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body
fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you
won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what
do I know?
--
HarryS
JAFGBR
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca...
> 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
>
> On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld
> themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that
> application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to
> last a long time.
>
> When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless.
> Expensive for the high grade ones too.
>
> I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that
> were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold
> on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The
> same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds
> things on tight, but still protects the threads.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Alan Haley wrote:
> >
> > I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where
I
> > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think
this
> > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right
now
> > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the
little
> > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have
access
> > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be
said
> > for the bolts. What do you think of this?
01-18-2004, 12:09 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:56:36 -0500, "Alan Haley" <ahaley@tdstelme.net>
wrote:
>I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
>could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
>would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
>would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
>donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
>to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
>for the bolts. What do you think of this?
>
Read this:
http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
wrote:
>I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
>could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
>would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
>would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
>donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
>to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
>for the bolts. What do you think of this?
>
Read this:
http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
01-18-2004, 12:09 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:56:36 -0500, "Alan Haley" <ahaley@tdstelme.net>
wrote:
>I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
>could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
>would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
>would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
>donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
>to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
>for the bolts. What do you think of this?
>
Read this:
http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
wrote:
>I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
>could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
>would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
>would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
>donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
>to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
>for the bolts. What do you think of this?
>
Read this:
http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
01-18-2004, 12:09 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:56:36 -0500, "Alan Haley" <ahaley@tdstelme.net>
wrote:
>I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
>could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
>would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
>would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
>donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
>to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
>for the bolts. What do you think of this?
>
Read this:
http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
wrote:
>I am rebuilding a ****** overland pick up. There are many places where I
>could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this
>would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now
>would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little
>donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access
>to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said
>for the bolts. What do you think of this?
>
Read this:
http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
