stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I
could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said for the bolts. What do you think of this? |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to last a long time. When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless. Expensive for the high grade ones too. I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds things on tight, but still protects the threads. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Alan Haley wrote: > > I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said > for the bolts. What do you think of this? |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to last a long time. When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless. Expensive for the high grade ones too. I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds things on tight, but still protects the threads. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Alan Haley wrote: > > I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said > for the bolts. What do you think of this? |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.
On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to last a long time. When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless. Expensive for the high grade ones too. I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds things on tight, but still protects the threads. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Alan Haley wrote: > > I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said > for the bolts. What do you think of this? |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
Well, do not use SST on any part of the exhaust system or the engine itself.
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what do I know? -- HarryS JAFGBR "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca... > 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof. > > On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld > themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that > application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to > last a long time. > > When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless. > Expensive for the high grade ones too. > > I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that > were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold > on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The > same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds > things on tight, but still protects the threads. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Alan Haley wrote: > > > > I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I > > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this > > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now > > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little > > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access > > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said > > for the bolts. What do you think of this? |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
Well, do not use SST on any part of the exhaust system or the engine itself.
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what do I know? -- HarryS JAFGBR "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca... > 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof. > > On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld > themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that > application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to > last a long time. > > When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless. > Expensive for the high grade ones too. > > I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that > were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold > on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The > same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds > things on tight, but still protects the threads. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Alan Haley wrote: > > > > I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I > > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this > > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now > > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little > > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access > > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said > > for the bolts. What do you think of this? |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
Well, do not use SST on any part of the exhaust system or the engine itself.
They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you ---- about rust paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what do I know? -- HarryS JAFGBR "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:400AA62D.9C37FDF5@sympatico.ca... > 'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof. > > On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld > themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that > application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to > last a long time. > > When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless. > Expensive for the high grade ones too. > > I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that > were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold > on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The > same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds > things on tight, but still protects the threads. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Alan Haley wrote: > > > > I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I > > could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this > > would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now > > would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little > > donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access > > to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said > > for the bolts. What do you think of this? |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:56:36 -0500, "Alan Haley" <ahaley@tdstelme.net>
wrote: >I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I >could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this >would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now >would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little >donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access >to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said >for the bolts. What do you think of this? > Read this: http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html John Davies Spokane WA USA |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:56:36 -0500, "Alan Haley" <ahaley@tdstelme.net>
wrote: >I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I >could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this >would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now >would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little >donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access >to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said >for the bolts. What do you think of this? > Read this: http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html John Davies Spokane WA USA |
Re: stainless steel nuts on graded bolts
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:56:36 -0500, "Alan Haley" <ahaley@tdstelme.net>
wrote: >I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I >could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this >would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now >would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little >donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access >to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said >for the bolts. What do you think of this? > Read this: http://www.marfas.com/gallingofstainless.html John Davies Spokane WA USA |
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