Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Pwabf.3085$IC.808@dukeread07...
> phelan did pass the time by typing:
>
> > My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> > existing harness.
> > ...
> When you splice in wires do it one at a time, use a heat shrink insulation
> and the proper solder teqnique on clean shiny copper. Stagger the splices
> so you don't wind up with one whopping cluster.
>
> A fairly good howto with pics
http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm
In the engine compartment, you want to be certain that the splices have
mechanical strength as well as a sound soldered electrical connection.
Google for "Western Union Splice".
When I was in grade school, we had vocational classes where we used fifty
year old manuals that were very big on Western Union Splices, and that's the
way we learned. They're designed for solid wire, but I use them for braided
too.
I'll add my emphatic vote against crimped connectors of any kind here.
That's what a dealership would do.
Hth,
Fred Klingener
05 Jeep CK
73 Porsche 911T
38 Rolls Royce 25/30
news:Pwabf.3085$IC.808@dukeread07...
> phelan did pass the time by typing:
>
> > My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> > existing harness.
> > ...
> When you splice in wires do it one at a time, use a heat shrink insulation
> and the proper solder teqnique on clean shiny copper. Stagger the splices
> so you don't wind up with one whopping cluster.
>
> A fairly good howto with pics
http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm
In the engine compartment, you want to be certain that the splices have
mechanical strength as well as a sound soldered electrical connection.
Google for "Western Union Splice".
When I was in grade school, we had vocational classes where we used fifty
year old manuals that were very big on Western Union Splices, and that's the
way we learned. They're designed for solid wire, but I use them for braided
too.
I'll add my emphatic vote against crimped connectors of any kind here.
That's what a dealership would do.
Hth,
Fred Klingener
05 Jeep CK
73 Porsche 911T
38 Rolls Royce 25/30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Pwabf.3085$IC.808@dukeread07...
> phelan did pass the time by typing:
>
> > My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> > existing harness.
> > ...
> When you splice in wires do it one at a time, use a heat shrink insulation
> and the proper solder teqnique on clean shiny copper. Stagger the splices
> so you don't wind up with one whopping cluster.
>
> A fairly good howto with pics
http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm
In the engine compartment, you want to be certain that the splices have
mechanical strength as well as a sound soldered electrical connection.
Google for "Western Union Splice".
When I was in grade school, we had vocational classes where we used fifty
year old manuals that were very big on Western Union Splices, and that's the
way we learned. They're designed for solid wire, but I use them for braided
too.
I'll add my emphatic vote against crimped connectors of any kind here.
That's what a dealership would do.
Hth,
Fred Klingener
05 Jeep CK
73 Porsche 911T
38 Rolls Royce 25/30
news:Pwabf.3085$IC.808@dukeread07...
> phelan did pass the time by typing:
>
> > My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> > existing harness.
> > ...
> When you splice in wires do it one at a time, use a heat shrink insulation
> and the proper solder teqnique on clean shiny copper. Stagger the splices
> so you don't wind up with one whopping cluster.
>
> A fairly good howto with pics
http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm
In the engine compartment, you want to be certain that the splices have
mechanical strength as well as a sound soldered electrical connection.
Google for "Western Union Splice".
When I was in grade school, we had vocational classes where we used fifty
year old manuals that were very big on Western Union Splices, and that's the
way we learned. They're designed for solid wire, but I use them for braided
too.
I'll add my emphatic vote against crimped connectors of any kind here.
That's what a dealership would do.
Hth,
Fred Klingener
05 Jeep CK
73 Porsche 911T
38 Rolls Royce 25/30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Pwabf.3085$IC.808@dukeread07...
> phelan did pass the time by typing:
>
> > My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> > existing harness.
> > ...
> When you splice in wires do it one at a time, use a heat shrink insulation
> and the proper solder teqnique on clean shiny copper. Stagger the splices
> so you don't wind up with one whopping cluster.
>
> A fairly good howto with pics
http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm
In the engine compartment, you want to be certain that the splices have
mechanical strength as well as a sound soldered electrical connection.
Google for "Western Union Splice".
When I was in grade school, we had vocational classes where we used fifty
year old manuals that were very big on Western Union Splices, and that's the
way we learned. They're designed for solid wire, but I use them for braided
too.
I'll add my emphatic vote against crimped connectors of any kind here.
That's what a dealership would do.
Hth,
Fred Klingener
05 Jeep CK
73 Porsche 911T
38 Rolls Royce 25/30
news:Pwabf.3085$IC.808@dukeread07...
> phelan did pass the time by typing:
>
> > My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> > existing harness.
> > ...
> When you splice in wires do it one at a time, use a heat shrink insulation
> and the proper solder teqnique on clean shiny copper. Stagger the splices
> so you don't wind up with one whopping cluster.
>
> A fairly good howto with pics
http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm
In the engine compartment, you want to be certain that the splices have
mechanical strength as well as a sound soldered electrical connection.
Google for "Western Union Splice".
When I was in grade school, we had vocational classes where we used fifty
year old manuals that were very big on Western Union Splices, and that's the
way we learned. They're designed for solid wire, but I use them for braided
too.
I'll add my emphatic vote against crimped connectors of any kind here.
That's what a dealership would do.
Hth,
Fred Klingener
05 Jeep CK
73 Porsche 911T
38 Rolls Royce 25/30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
prevent this?
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> H Howard,
> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> play.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>
>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>with much pain and agony.
>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>that technique.
>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>>Howard
have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
prevent this?
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> H Howard,
> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> play.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>
>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>with much pain and agony.
>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>that technique.
>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>>Howard
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
prevent this?
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> H Howard,
> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> play.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>
>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>with much pain and agony.
>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>that technique.
>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>>Howard
have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
prevent this?
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> H Howard,
> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> play.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>
>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>with much pain and agony.
>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>that technique.
>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>>Howard
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
prevent this?
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> H Howard,
> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> play.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>
>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>with much pain and agony.
>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>that technique.
>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>>Howard
have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
prevent this?
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> H Howard,
> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> play.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>
>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>with much pain and agony.
>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>that technique.
>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>>Howard
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Hi Lee,
I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
> have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
> from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
> harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
> harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
> day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
> prevent this?
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > H Howard,
> > I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> > too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> > play.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > phelan@west-point.org wrote:
> >
> >>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
> >>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
> >>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
> >>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
> >>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
> >>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
> >>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
> >>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
> >>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
> >>with much pain and agony.
> >>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> >>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> >>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> >>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> >>that technique.
> >>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
> >>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
> >>female plugs that I could buy.
> >>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
> >>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
> >>would make the wire too brittle.
> >>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >>
> >>Howard
I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
> have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
> from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
> harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
> harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
> day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
> prevent this?
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > H Howard,
> > I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> > too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> > play.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > phelan@west-point.org wrote:
> >
> >>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
> >>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
> >>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
> >>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
> >>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
> >>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
> >>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
> >>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
> >>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
> >>with much pain and agony.
> >>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> >>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> >>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> >>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> >>that technique.
> >>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
> >>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
> >>female plugs that I could buy.
> >>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
> >>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
> >>would make the wire too brittle.
> >>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >>
> >>Howard
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Hi Lee,
I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
> have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
> from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
> harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
> harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
> day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
> prevent this?
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > H Howard,
> > I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> > too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> > play.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > phelan@west-point.org wrote:
> >
> >>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
> >>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
> >>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
> >>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
> >>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
> >>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
> >>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
> >>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
> >>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
> >>with much pain and agony.
> >>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> >>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> >>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> >>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> >>that technique.
> >>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
> >>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
> >>female plugs that I could buy.
> >>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
> >>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
> >>would make the wire too brittle.
> >>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >>
> >>Howard
I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
> have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
> from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
> harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
> harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
> day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
> prevent this?
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > H Howard,
> > I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> > too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> > play.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > phelan@west-point.org wrote:
> >
> >>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
> >>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
> >>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
> >>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
> >>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
> >>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
> >>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
> >>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
> >>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
> >>with much pain and agony.
> >>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> >>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> >>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> >>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> >>that technique.
> >>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
> >>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
> >>female plugs that I could buy.
> >>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
> >>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
> >>would make the wire too brittle.
> >>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >>
> >>Howard
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Hi Lee,
I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
> have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
> from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
> harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
> harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
> day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
> prevent this?
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > H Howard,
> > I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> > too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> > play.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > phelan@west-point.org wrote:
> >
> >>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
> >>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
> >>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
> >>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
> >>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
> >>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
> >>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
> >>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
> >>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
> >>with much pain and agony.
> >>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> >>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> >>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> >>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> >>that technique.
> >>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
> >>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
> >>female plugs that I could buy.
> >>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
> >>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
> >>would make the wire too brittle.
> >>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >>
> >>Howard
I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
> have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
> from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
> harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
> harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
> day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
> prevent this?
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > H Howard,
> > I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
> > too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
> > play.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > phelan@west-point.org wrote:
> >
> >>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
> >>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
> >>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
> >>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
> >>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
> >>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
> >>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
> >>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
> >>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
> >>with much pain and agony.
> >>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> >>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> >>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> >>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> >>that technique.
> >>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
> >>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
> >>female plugs that I could buy.
> >>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
> >>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
> >>would make the wire too brittle.
> >>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >>
> >>Howard
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Ah. It might be regional/business differences. In my neck of the woods
most (but not all) the cars I see in boneyards still have their engines
in place, and that's where they stay when they go to the chipper. Tires
and gas tanks come off, everything else metallic ends up on a boat to China.
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Lee,
> I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
> the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
> unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
>>I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
>>have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
>>from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
>>harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
>>harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
>>day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
>>prevent this?
>>
>>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>>
>>>H Howard,
>>> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
>>>too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
>>>play.
>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>>>with much pain and agony.
>>>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>>>that technique.
>>>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>>>
>>>>Howard
most (but not all) the cars I see in boneyards still have their engines
in place, and that's where they stay when they go to the chipper. Tires
and gas tanks come off, everything else metallic ends up on a boat to China.
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Lee,
> I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
> the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
> unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
>>I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
>>have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
>>from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
>>harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
>>harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
>>day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
>>prevent this?
>>
>>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>>
>>>H Howard,
>>> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
>>>too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
>>>play.
>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>>>with much pain and agony.
>>>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>>>that technique.
>>>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>>>
>>>>Howard