The Hurdy Gurdy Man

Yet another issue in the continuing saga of the repairs on my brother's
1994 Wrangler YJ (although I will be taking it out for a drive tomorrow,
so at least some progress has been made). On the top of the frame that
holds the window glass there's a long strip of what appears to be painted
aluminum that screws down and holds the front lip of the soft top in
place. This strip has ripped out several times now from the stress of the
top pulling on it... I've repaired it before, but the repairs keep failing
and so I am now wondering if there's some sort of aftermarket kit
available that replaces this part with something that won't pop loose.
Basically the body screws that hold the strip down against the frame
simply rip out. Previously I just up-sized the screws and used a bit of
silicone adhesive to hold it all in place, which worked for a while but
certainly not forever. If I do repair it again I'm thinking about
drilling entirely new holes and using aircraft structural rivets in
addition to the screws, but many of the old screw holes are hopelessly
bunged. I could weld them closed and re-drill them, but I'd rather not.

So, if anyone has any suggestions for aftermarket kits or just general
repair tips for dealing with this situation (I get the feeling it's
probably a common problem, judging by the design) please do let me know.
Thanks!

Bryan

Earle Horton

There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.
Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely to
be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely result of
welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason. The cause of the
screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the screws, either too
loose or too tight. (Easy for me to say. My Jeep has ten years on it and
the retainer strip is still as tight as new.)

Earle

"The Hurdy Gurdy Man" <bryan@linux.webicommerce.com> wrote in message
news:e6Zsb.39532$E9.27851@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>
> Yet another issue in the continuing saga of the repairs on my brother's
> 1994 Wrangler YJ (although I will be taking it out for a drive tomorrow,
> so at least some progress has been made). On the top of the frame that
> holds the window glass there's a long strip of what appears to be painted
> aluminum that screws down and holds the front lip of the soft top in
> place. This strip has ripped out several times now from the stress of the
> top pulling on it... I've repaired it before, but the repairs keep failing
> and so I am now wondering if there's some sort of aftermarket kit
> available that replaces this part with something that won't pop loose.
> Basically the body screws that hold the strip down against the frame
> simply rip out. Previously I just up-sized the screws and used a bit of
> silicone adhesive to hold it all in place, which worked for a while but
> certainly not forever. If I do repair it again I'm thinking about
> drilling entirely new holes and using aircraft structural rivets in
> addition to the screws, but many of the old screw holes are hopelessly
> bunged. I could weld them closed and re-drill them, but I'd rather not.
>
> So, if anyone has any suggestions for aftermarket kits or just general
> repair tips for dealing with this situation (I get the feeling it's
> probably a common problem, judging by the design) please do let me know.
> Thanks!
>
> Bryan

Earle Horton

There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.
Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely to
be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely result of
welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason. The cause of the
screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the screws, either too
loose or too tight. (Easy for me to say. My Jeep has ten years on it and
the retainer strip is still as tight as new.)

Earle

"The Hurdy Gurdy Man" <bryan@linux.webicommerce.com> wrote in message
news:e6Zsb.39532$E9.27851@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>
> Yet another issue in the continuing saga of the repairs on my brother's
> 1994 Wrangler YJ (although I will be taking it out for a drive tomorrow,
> so at least some progress has been made). On the top of the frame that
> holds the window glass there's a long strip of what appears to be painted
> aluminum that screws down and holds the front lip of the soft top in
> place. This strip has ripped out several times now from the stress of the
> top pulling on it... I've repaired it before, but the repairs keep failing
> and so I am now wondering if there's some sort of aftermarket kit
> available that replaces this part with something that won't pop loose.
> Basically the body screws that hold the strip down against the frame
> simply rip out. Previously I just up-sized the screws and used a bit of
> silicone adhesive to hold it all in place, which worked for a while but
> certainly not forever. If I do repair it again I'm thinking about
> drilling entirely new holes and using aircraft structural rivets in
> addition to the screws, but many of the old screw holes are hopelessly
> bunged. I could weld them closed and re-drill them, but I'd rather not.
>
> So, if anyone has any suggestions for aftermarket kits or just general
> repair tips for dealing with this situation (I get the feeling it's
> probably a common problem, judging by the design) please do let me know.
> Thanks!
>
> Bryan

Earle Horton

There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.
Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely to
be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely result of
welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason. The cause of the
screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the screws, either too
loose or too tight. (Easy for me to say. My Jeep has ten years on it and
the retainer strip is still as tight as new.)

Earle

"The Hurdy Gurdy Man" <bryan@linux.webicommerce.com> wrote in message
news:e6Zsb.39532$E9.27851@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>
> Yet another issue in the continuing saga of the repairs on my brother's
> 1994 Wrangler YJ (although I will be taking it out for a drive tomorrow,
> so at least some progress has been made). On the top of the frame that
> holds the window glass there's a long strip of what appears to be painted
> aluminum that screws down and holds the front lip of the soft top in
> place. This strip has ripped out several times now from the stress of the
> top pulling on it... I've repaired it before, but the repairs keep failing
> and so I am now wondering if there's some sort of aftermarket kit
> available that replaces this part with something that won't pop loose.
> Basically the body screws that hold the strip down against the frame
> simply rip out. Previously I just up-sized the screws and used a bit of
> silicone adhesive to hold it all in place, which worked for a while but
> certainly not forever. If I do repair it again I'm thinking about
> drilling entirely new holes and using aircraft structural rivets in
> addition to the screws, but many of the old screw holes are hopelessly
> bunged. I could weld them closed and re-drill them, but I'd rather not.
>
> So, if anyone has any suggestions for aftermarket kits or just general
> repair tips for dealing with this situation (I get the feeling it's
> probably a common problem, judging by the design) please do let me know.
> Thanks!
>
> Bryan

The Hurdy Gurdy Man

Earle Horton <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote:

> There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
> riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
> instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.

Where would I find such a thing? I don't remember seeing one in the
Quadratec catalog I had lying around someplace. It sounds like this
repair kit uses something akin to rivnuts though, and if they go in the
stock mounting holes I don't think it'd work in this case. There are
cracks around the holes, and I'm pretty sure a rivet put into them would
eventually pull right out. I could feasibly modify the one I've got to
use rivnuts and drill a series of new holes, though... maybe that'd work.
I want the thing to be removable, but if I can't have it that way then so
be it.

> Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely
> to be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely
> result of welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason.

I was figuring that'd be an issue, since I have no way to safely anneal the
welds after making them, but it seemed like it could be done with enough
patience and care. The body screws that are used to hold it on seem like
they'd survive in such an environment, but the real thing is I simply don't
want to weld up all those holes. The cracks in them would make welding
them a nightmare, and I loathe the idea of all the grinding and finishing
work I'd have to do.

> The cause of the screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the
> screws, either too loose or too tight.

The factory can be blamed on this one, because the original failure that
occurred was due to holes stripping and cracks forming in the original
configuration. I did what I could before, but I figured it'd probably fail
again after a few years, which it did. Well, hopefully that aftermarket
kit will address the issues I'm having with it. Something tried and true
would be ideal in this situation.

Bryan

The Hurdy Gurdy Man

Earle Horton <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote:

> There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
> riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
> instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.

Where would I find such a thing? I don't remember seeing one in the
Quadratec catalog I had lying around someplace. It sounds like this
repair kit uses something akin to rivnuts though, and if they go in the
stock mounting holes I don't think it'd work in this case. There are
cracks around the holes, and I'm pretty sure a rivet put into them would
eventually pull right out. I could feasibly modify the one I've got to
use rivnuts and drill a series of new holes, though... maybe that'd work.
I want the thing to be removable, but if I can't have it that way then so
be it.

> Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely
> to be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely
> result of welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason.

I was figuring that'd be an issue, since I have no way to safely anneal the
welds after making them, but it seemed like it could be done with enough
patience and care. The body screws that are used to hold it on seem like
they'd survive in such an environment, but the real thing is I simply don't
want to weld up all those holes. The cracks in them would make welding
them a nightmare, and I loathe the idea of all the grinding and finishing
work I'd have to do.

> The cause of the screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the
> screws, either too loose or too tight.

The factory can be blamed on this one, because the original failure that
occurred was due to holes stripping and cracks forming in the original
configuration. I did what I could before, but I figured it'd probably fail
again after a few years, which it did. Well, hopefully that aftermarket
kit will address the issues I'm having with it. Something tried and true
would be ideal in this situation.

Bryan

The Hurdy Gurdy Man

Earle Horton <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote:

> There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
> riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
> instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.

Where would I find such a thing? I don't remember seeing one in the
Quadratec catalog I had lying around someplace. It sounds like this
repair kit uses something akin to rivnuts though, and if they go in the
stock mounting holes I don't think it'd work in this case. There are
cracks around the holes, and I'm pretty sure a rivet put into them would
eventually pull right out. I could feasibly modify the one I've got to
use rivnuts and drill a series of new holes, though... maybe that'd work.
I want the thing to be removable, but if I can't have it that way then so
be it.

> Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely
> to be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely
> result of welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason.

I was figuring that'd be an issue, since I have no way to safely anneal the
welds after making them, but it seemed like it could be done with enough
patience and care. The body screws that are used to hold it on seem like
they'd survive in such an environment, but the real thing is I simply don't
want to weld up all those holes. The cracks in them would make welding
them a nightmare, and I loathe the idea of all the grinding and finishing
work I'd have to do.

> The cause of the screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the
> screws, either too loose or too tight.

The factory can be blamed on this one, because the original failure that
occurred was due to holes stripping and cracks forming in the original
configuration. I did what I could before, but I figured it'd probably fail
again after a few years, which it did. Well, hopefully that aftermarket
kit will address the issues I'm having with it. Something tried and true
would be ideal in this situation.

Bryan

Earle Horton

They are like rivnuts. The time I saw them was on a Jeep whose owner was
buying some stuff from me, and I didn't ask where he got them. If worse
comes to worst you could buy a new windshield frame. Stay away from
fiberglass.

Earle

"The Hurdy Gurdy Man" <bryan@linux.webicommerce.com> wrote in message
news:SN3tb.42941$E9.32449@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> Earle Horton <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote:
>
> > There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
> > riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
> > instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.
>
> Where would I find such a thing? I don't remember seeing one in the
> Quadratec catalog I had lying around someplace. It sounds like this
> repair kit uses something akin to rivnuts though, and if they go in the
> stock mounting holes I don't think it'd work in this case. There are
> cracks around the holes, and I'm pretty sure a rivet put into them would
> eventually pull right out. I could feasibly modify the one I've got to
> use rivnuts and drill a series of new holes, though... maybe that'd work.
> I want the thing to be removable, but if I can't have it that way then so
> be it.
>
> > Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely
> > to be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely
> > result of welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason.
>
> I was figuring that'd be an issue, since I have no way to safely anneal
the
> welds after making them, but it seemed like it could be done with enough
> patience and care. The body screws that are used to hold it on seem like
> they'd survive in such an environment, but the real thing is I simply
don't
> want to weld up all those holes. The cracks in them would make welding
> them a nightmare, and I loathe the idea of all the grinding and finishing
> work I'd have to do.
>
> > The cause of the screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the
> > screws, either too loose or too tight.
>
> The factory can be blamed on this one, because the original failure that
> occurred was due to holes stripping and cracks forming in the original
> configuration. I did what I could before, but I figured it'd probably
fail
> again after a few years, which it did. Well, hopefully that aftermarket
> kit will address the issues I'm having with it. Something tried and true
> would be ideal in this situation.
>
> Bryan

Earle Horton

They are like rivnuts. The time I saw them was on a Jeep whose owner was
buying some stuff from me, and I didn't ask where he got them. If worse
comes to worst you could buy a new windshield frame. Stay away from
fiberglass.

Earle

"The Hurdy Gurdy Man" <bryan@linux.webicommerce.com> wrote in message
news:SN3tb.42941$E9.32449@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> Earle Horton <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote:
>
> > There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
> > riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
> > instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.
>
> Where would I find such a thing? I don't remember seeing one in the
> Quadratec catalog I had lying around someplace. It sounds like this
> repair kit uses something akin to rivnuts though, and if they go in the
> stock mounting holes I don't think it'd work in this case. There are
> cracks around the holes, and I'm pretty sure a rivet put into them would
> eventually pull right out. I could feasibly modify the one I've got to
> use rivnuts and drill a series of new holes, though... maybe that'd work.
> I want the thing to be removable, but if I can't have it that way then so
> be it.
>
> > Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely
> > to be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely
> > result of welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason.
>
> I was figuring that'd be an issue, since I have no way to safely anneal
the
> welds after making them, but it seemed like it could be done with enough
> patience and care. The body screws that are used to hold it on seem like
> they'd survive in such an environment, but the real thing is I simply
don't
> want to weld up all those holes. The cracks in them would make welding
> them a nightmare, and I loathe the idea of all the grinding and finishing
> work I'd have to do.
>
> > The cause of the screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the
> > screws, either too loose or too tight.
>
> The factory can be blamed on this one, because the original failure that
> occurred was due to holes stripping and cracks forming in the original
> configuration. I did what I could before, but I figured it'd probably
fail
> again after a few years, which it did. Well, hopefully that aftermarket
> kit will address the issues I'm having with it. Something tried and true
> would be ideal in this situation.
>
> Bryan

Earle Horton

They are like rivnuts. The time I saw them was on a Jeep whose owner was
buying some stuff from me, and I didn't ask where he got them. If worse
comes to worst you could buy a new windshield frame. Stay away from
fiberglass.

Earle

"The Hurdy Gurdy Man" <bryan@linux.webicommerce.com> wrote in message
news:SN3tb.42941$E9.32449@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> Earle Horton <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote:
>
> > There is an aftermarket kit to replace the holes in the sheet metal with
> > riveted inserts that are threaded on the inside to accept machine screws
> > instead of sheet metal screws. This is considered a permanent repair.
>
> Where would I find such a thing? I don't remember seeing one in the
> Quadratec catalog I had lying around someplace. It sounds like this
> repair kit uses something akin to rivnuts though, and if they go in the
> stock mounting holes I don't think it'd work in this case. There are
> cracks around the holes, and I'm pretty sure a rivet put into them would
> eventually pull right out. I could feasibly modify the one I've got to
> use rivnuts and drill a series of new holes, though... maybe that'd work.
> I want the thing to be removable, but if I can't have it that way then so
> be it.
>
> > Welding the holes shut will probably not work because the weld is likely
> > to be harder and more brittle than the surrounding metal. The likely
> > result of welding the holes is broken off screws for this reason.
>
> I was figuring that'd be an issue, since I have no way to safely anneal
the
> welds after making them, but it seemed like it could be done with enough
> patience and care. The body screws that are used to hold it on seem like
> they'd survive in such an environment, but the real thing is I simply
don't
> want to weld up all those holes. The cracks in them would make welding
> them a nightmare, and I loathe the idea of all the grinding and finishing
> work I'd have to do.
>
> > The cause of the screw holes wearing out is improper tightening of the
> > screws, either too loose or too tight.
>
> The factory can be blamed on this one, because the original failure that
> occurred was due to holes stripping and cracks forming in the original
> configuration. I did what I could before, but I figured it'd probably
fail
> again after a few years, which it did. Well, hopefully that aftermarket
> kit will address the issues I'm having with it. Something tried and true
> would be ideal in this situation.
>
> Bryan