Lots of penetrant, judious heat, tap tap, more penetrant, repeat over
several days. Get a brand new Vice Grip (by brand, no import junk!) and
give it a go. I've had one come out with a major screech on the second
day of swearing at it. Good luck.

Replace with a suitable stud from dealer or NAPA. It would be a good
idea to run a suitable tap into the hole to clean out the crud first. I
expect it will be a 3/8"-16 NC thread.

wb wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a
>> water displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at
>> least 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in.
>> Grab with vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts
>> have been temp cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just
>> as brittle, that's why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as
>> possible, center punch, drill with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible
>> other wise a right handed one), lots of pressure, very slow speed (250
>> rpm is about right). You may need a couple of different sizes, drill
>> until you hit the wall on one side, pick out the pieces. Miserable job
>> when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts
>>> onto the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one
>>> off with no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a
>>> little too much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped
>>> on me. I was going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the
>>> bolts seem to built into manifold itself. What's the best course of
>>> action to take care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still
> usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I
> be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot
> enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I
> replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these),
> screwed in from underneath?
>
> Thanks

 

Lots of penetrant, judious heat, tap tap, more penetrant, repeat over
several days. Get a brand new Vice Grip (by brand, no import junk!) and
give it a go. I've had one come out with a major screech on the second
day of swearing at it. Good luck.

Replace with a suitable stud from dealer or NAPA. It would be a good
idea to run a suitable tap into the hole to clean out the crud first. I
expect it will be a 3/8"-16 NC thread.

wb wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a
>> water displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at
>> least 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in.
>> Grab with vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts
>> have been temp cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just
>> as brittle, that's why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as
>> possible, center punch, drill with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible
>> other wise a right handed one), lots of pressure, very slow speed (250
>> rpm is about right). You may need a couple of different sizes, drill
>> until you hit the wall on one side, pick out the pieces. Miserable job
>> when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts
>>> onto the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one
>>> off with no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a
>>> little too much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped
>>> on me. I was going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the
>>> bolts seem to built into manifold itself. What's the best course of
>>> action to take care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still
> usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I
> be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot
> enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I
> replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these),
> screwed in from underneath?
>
> Thanks

 

Lots of penetrant, judious heat, tap tap, more penetrant, repeat over
several days. Get a brand new Vice Grip (by brand, no import junk!) and
give it a go. I've had one come out with a major screech on the second
day of swearing at it. Good luck.

Replace with a suitable stud from dealer or NAPA. It would be a good
idea to run a suitable tap into the hole to clean out the crud first. I
expect it will be a 3/8"-16 NC thread.

wb wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a
>> water displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at
>> least 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in.
>> Grab with vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts
>> have been temp cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just
>> as brittle, that's why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as
>> possible, center punch, drill with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible
>> other wise a right handed one), lots of pressure, very slow speed (250
>> rpm is about right). You may need a couple of different sizes, drill
>> until you hit the wall on one side, pick out the pieces. Miserable job
>> when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts
>>> onto the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one
>>> off with no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a
>>> little too much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped
>>> on me. I was going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the
>>> bolts seem to built into manifold itself. What's the best course of
>>> action to take care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still
> usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I
> be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot
> enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I
> replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these),
> screwed in from underneath?
>
> Thanks

 

Having just been through something like this myself (Dec 27 posting entitled
"Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads..."), here's my
$0.02 CAD.

1) After a bunch of futzing around with Eazy-Outs, stud extractors, PB,
vice grips, etc, the solution for my bolts was to drill them out. If you're
going to drill them out, DON'T use the package of 10 for $5 el-cheapo
Titanium coated drill bits. Get down to a real hardware store, and get some
good cobalt bits. If you use cheap bits and break one of them off in the
bolt, it makes life ever so much more fun. I ended up picking up some
Dewalt (http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=479127), at about
$4/bit. Oh yeah, and get some cutting oil to squirt in there now and again.
And pick up a tap-and-die set, in case you have to clean up the threads, or
drill it out one size bigger and re-tap it.

2) Use just about the largest bit you feel comfortable with. Smaller bits
will break off, and see the last sentence of point 1.

3) Take your time and come back to the group if you get stuck. Great help
here.

Clint, who spent a good chunk of his Christmas holidays trying to get two
bolts out of his engine block because he was worried about drilling them
out.

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:W46vh.5024$O02.3858@newssvr11.news.prodigy.ne t...
>I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with no
>issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too much
>pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was going to
>replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to built into
>manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take care of this
>problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will

 

Having just been through something like this myself (Dec 27 posting entitled
"Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads..."), here's my
$0.02 CAD.

1) After a bunch of futzing around with Eazy-Outs, stud extractors, PB,
vice grips, etc, the solution for my bolts was to drill them out. If you're
going to drill them out, DON'T use the package of 10 for $5 el-cheapo
Titanium coated drill bits. Get down to a real hardware store, and get some
good cobalt bits. If you use cheap bits and break one of them off in the
bolt, it makes life ever so much more fun. I ended up picking up some
Dewalt (http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=479127), at about
$4/bit. Oh yeah, and get some cutting oil to squirt in there now and again.
And pick up a tap-and-die set, in case you have to clean up the threads, or
drill it out one size bigger and re-tap it.

2) Use just about the largest bit you feel comfortable with. Smaller bits
will break off, and see the last sentence of point 1.

3) Take your time and come back to the group if you get stuck. Great help
here.

Clint, who spent a good chunk of his Christmas holidays trying to get two
bolts out of his engine block because he was worried about drilling them
out.

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:W46vh.5024$O02.3858@newssvr11.news.prodigy.ne t...
>I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with no
>issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too much
>pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was going to
>replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to built into
>manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take care of this
>problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will

 

Having just been through something like this myself (Dec 27 posting entitled
"Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads..."), here's my
$0.02 CAD.

1) After a bunch of futzing around with Eazy-Outs, stud extractors, PB,
vice grips, etc, the solution for my bolts was to drill them out. If you're
going to drill them out, DON'T use the package of 10 for $5 el-cheapo
Titanium coated drill bits. Get down to a real hardware store, and get some
good cobalt bits. If you use cheap bits and break one of them off in the
bolt, it makes life ever so much more fun. I ended up picking up some
Dewalt (http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=479127), at about
$4/bit. Oh yeah, and get some cutting oil to squirt in there now and again.
And pick up a tap-and-die set, in case you have to clean up the threads, or
drill it out one size bigger and re-tap it.

2) Use just about the largest bit you feel comfortable with. Smaller bits
will break off, and see the last sentence of point 1.

3) Take your time and come back to the group if you get stuck. Great help
here.

Clint, who spent a good chunk of his Christmas holidays trying to get two
bolts out of his engine block because he was worried about drilling them
out.

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:W46vh.5024$O02.3858@newssvr11.news.prodigy.ne t...
>I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with no
>issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too much
>pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was going to
>replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to built into
>manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take care of this
>problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will

 

Having just been through something like this myself (Dec 27 posting entitled
"Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads..."), here's my
$0.02 CAD.

1) After a bunch of futzing around with Eazy-Outs, stud extractors, PB,
vice grips, etc, the solution for my bolts was to drill them out. If you're
going to drill them out, DON'T use the package of 10 for $5 el-cheapo
Titanium coated drill bits. Get down to a real hardware store, and get some
good cobalt bits. If you use cheap bits and break one of them off in the
bolt, it makes life ever so much more fun. I ended up picking up some
Dewalt (http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=479127), at about
$4/bit. Oh yeah, and get some cutting oil to squirt in there now and again.
And pick up a tap-and-die set, in case you have to clean up the threads, or
drill it out one size bigger and re-tap it.

2) Use just about the largest bit you feel comfortable with. Smaller bits
will break off, and see the last sentence of point 1.

3) Take your time and come back to the group if you get stuck. Great help
here.

Clint, who spent a good chunk of his Christmas holidays trying to get two
bolts out of his engine block because he was worried about drilling them
out.

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:W46vh.5024$O02.3858@newssvr11.news.prodigy.ne t...
>I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with no
>issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too much
>pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was going to
>replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to built into
>manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take care of this
>problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>
> -Will

 

> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust.

Not the best? More like completely useless against rusted bolts. It's
nowhere near as effective a penetrant as Kroil, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
Nor is it a decent lubricant. It's not even all that great as a water
deterent compared to using stuff like Boeshield.

What helps the most when using actual penetrating oils is time. Put some on
it and let it sit for a couple hours. Then tap it lightly with a hammer
several times and reapply the oil. Repeat. The vibration caused by the
hammer will help loosen the rust bond, thus making room for more oil to
penetrate. Repeating the process often helps get enough of it loosened to
back it out. Like someone else said, with quite a screeching sound.

> Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for
these),
> screwed in from underneath?

They're called exhaust studs. Any auto parts place should carry them.

-Bill Kearney

 

> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust.

Not the best? More like completely useless against rusted bolts. It's
nowhere near as effective a penetrant as Kroil, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
Nor is it a decent lubricant. It's not even all that great as a water
deterent compared to using stuff like Boeshield.

What helps the most when using actual penetrating oils is time. Put some on
it and let it sit for a couple hours. Then tap it lightly with a hammer
several times and reapply the oil. Repeat. The vibration caused by the
hammer will help loosen the rust bond, thus making room for more oil to
penetrate. Repeating the process often helps get enough of it loosened to
back it out. Like someone else said, with quite a screeching sound.

> Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for
these),
> screwed in from underneath?

They're called exhaust studs. Any auto parts place should carry them.

-Bill Kearney

 

> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust.

Not the best? More like completely useless against rusted bolts. It's
nowhere near as effective a penetrant as Kroil, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
Nor is it a decent lubricant. It's not even all that great as a water
deterent compared to using stuff like Boeshield.

What helps the most when using actual penetrating oils is time. Put some on
it and let it sit for a couple hours. Then tap it lightly with a hammer
several times and reapply the oil. Repeat. The vibration caused by the
hammer will help loosen the rust bond, thus making room for more oil to
penetrate. Repeating the process often helps get enough of it loosened to
back it out. Like someone else said, with quite a screeching sound.

> Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for
these),
> screwed in from underneath?

They're called exhaust studs. Any auto parts place should carry them.

-Bill Kearney