On Jan 28, 7:59 pm, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> "wb" wrote...
> > Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> > still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> > assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> > have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>
> The term your looking for is "stud".
>
> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>
> --
> DougW

What I actually ended up doing is this..

I went and bought some PB blaster. I sprayed it all over the stud
from top and bottom one night one and let it sit for a couple of
hours. Tapped it with a hammer and resprayed and let it sit over
night. I pulled out the vice grips the next day and could not budge
it. So I applied more PB Blaster, ventilated the garage (this stuff
is pretty noxious), and let it sit for a couple of hours. Tapped it
again and tried again with the vice grips. Nothing. Did this every
3-4 hours for the next couple of days. After wearing off all the
threads and having nothing left to grip on the stud, I went to Sears
to have a gander at stud extractors. This was after the local part
stores had nothing to loan out and nothing that looked promising on
the shelf. I came across a sud extractor that you tap onto a stuck
stud. It has what looks like a small star pattern in it. You tap it
onto the stud and the points of the star cut right into the stud.
>From there it has a firm grip; something I wasn't getting with the
vice grips. I was able to put an impact socket with extension over
the top of that. From there I put the impact wrench in reverse, said
a small prayer that this wouldn't get any worse, and fired it up.
After several seconds of hitting on it it broke free. A few seconds
later it had screwed on out. I was so pumped that the impact wrench
came in handy again (just got it a few weeks ago to help in removing
the flywheel). A few minutes of cleaning up the area and screwing in
the new stud, and the muffler was assembled and the jeep was ready to
fire back up. Now my only problem is getting that stud out of my
extractor tool.... for some reason they did not include directions on
that : )

Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
WD40.

 

<wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1170914970.931056.70550@l53g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
....
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>
WD40 is good for spraying on satellite TV coaxial connections. I wouldn't
be without it.

Earle

 

<wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1170914970.931056.70550@l53g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
....
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>
WD40 is good for spraying on satellite TV coaxial connections. I wouldn't
be without it.

Earle

 

<wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1170914970.931056.70550@l53g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
....
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>
WD40 is good for spraying on satellite TV coaxial connections. I wouldn't
be without it.

Earle

 

<wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1170914970.931056.70550@l53g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
....
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>
WD40 is good for spraying on satellite TV coaxial connections. I wouldn't
be without it.

Earle

 

Might I recommend a plumbers pipe wrench to grab the stud instead of
vise grips. The difference is the pipe wrench continues to grab harder
the harder you pull where the vise grips have a fixed clamping force.

The make small pipe wrenches too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jan 28, 7:59 pm, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
>> "wb" wrote...
>>> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
>>> still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
>>> assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
>>> have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>> The term your looking for is "stud".
>>
>> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
>> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
>> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>>
>> --
>> DougW
>
> What I actually ended up doing is this..
>
> I went and bought some PB blaster. I sprayed it all over the stud
> from top and bottom one night one and let it sit for a couple of
> hours. Tapped it with a hammer and resprayed and let it sit over
> night. I pulled out the vice grips the next day and could not budge
> it. So I applied more PB Blaster, ventilated the garage (this stuff
> is pretty noxious), and let it sit for a couple of hours. Tapped it
> again and tried again with the vice grips. Nothing. Did this every
> 3-4 hours for the next couple of days. After wearing off all the
> threads and having nothing left to grip on the stud, I went to Sears
> to have a gander at stud extractors. This was after the local part
> stores had nothing to loan out and nothing that looked promising on
> the shelf. I came across a sud extractor that you tap onto a stuck
> stud. It has what looks like a small star pattern in it. You tap it
> onto the stud and the points of the star cut right into the stud.
>>From there it has a firm grip; something I wasn't getting with the
> vice grips. I was able to put an impact socket with extension over
> the top of that. From there I put the impact wrench in reverse, said
> a small prayer that this wouldn't get any worse, and fired it up.
> After several seconds of hitting on it it broke free. A few seconds
> later it had screwed on out. I was so pumped that the impact wrench
> came in handy again (just got it a few weeks ago to help in removing
> the flywheel). A few minutes of cleaning up the area and screwing in
> the new stud, and the muffler was assembled and the jeep was ready to
> fire back up. Now my only problem is getting that stud out of my
> extractor tool.... for some reason they did not include directions on
> that : )
>
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>

 

Might I recommend a plumbers pipe wrench to grab the stud instead of
vise grips. The difference is the pipe wrench continues to grab harder
the harder you pull where the vise grips have a fixed clamping force.

The make small pipe wrenches too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jan 28, 7:59 pm, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
>> "wb" wrote...
>>> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
>>> still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
>>> assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
>>> have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>> The term your looking for is "stud".
>>
>> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
>> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
>> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>>
>> --
>> DougW
>
> What I actually ended up doing is this..
>
> I went and bought some PB blaster. I sprayed it all over the stud
> from top and bottom one night one and let it sit for a couple of
> hours. Tapped it with a hammer and resprayed and let it sit over
> night. I pulled out the vice grips the next day and could not budge
> it. So I applied more PB Blaster, ventilated the garage (this stuff
> is pretty noxious), and let it sit for a couple of hours. Tapped it
> again and tried again with the vice grips. Nothing. Did this every
> 3-4 hours for the next couple of days. After wearing off all the
> threads and having nothing left to grip on the stud, I went to Sears
> to have a gander at stud extractors. This was after the local part
> stores had nothing to loan out and nothing that looked promising on
> the shelf. I came across a sud extractor that you tap onto a stuck
> stud. It has what looks like a small star pattern in it. You tap it
> onto the stud and the points of the star cut right into the stud.
>>From there it has a firm grip; something I wasn't getting with the
> vice grips. I was able to put an impact socket with extension over
> the top of that. From there I put the impact wrench in reverse, said
> a small prayer that this wouldn't get any worse, and fired it up.
> After several seconds of hitting on it it broke free. A few seconds
> later it had screwed on out. I was so pumped that the impact wrench
> came in handy again (just got it a few weeks ago to help in removing
> the flywheel). A few minutes of cleaning up the area and screwing in
> the new stud, and the muffler was assembled and the jeep was ready to
> fire back up. Now my only problem is getting that stud out of my
> extractor tool.... for some reason they did not include directions on
> that : )
>
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>

 

Might I recommend a plumbers pipe wrench to grab the stud instead of
vise grips. The difference is the pipe wrench continues to grab harder
the harder you pull where the vise grips have a fixed clamping force.

The make small pipe wrenches too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jan 28, 7:59 pm, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
>> "wb" wrote...
>>> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
>>> still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
>>> assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
>>> have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>> The term your looking for is "stud".
>>
>> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
>> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
>> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>>
>> --
>> DougW
>
> What I actually ended up doing is this..
>
> I went and bought some PB blaster. I sprayed it all over the stud
> from top and bottom one night one and let it sit for a couple of
> hours. Tapped it with a hammer and resprayed and let it sit over
> night. I pulled out the vice grips the next day and could not budge
> it. So I applied more PB Blaster, ventilated the garage (this stuff
> is pretty noxious), and let it sit for a couple of hours. Tapped it
> again and tried again with the vice grips. Nothing. Did this every
> 3-4 hours for the next couple of days. After wearing off all the
> threads and having nothing left to grip on the stud, I went to Sears
> to have a gander at stud extractors. This was after the local part
> stores had nothing to loan out and nothing that looked promising on
> the shelf. I came across a sud extractor that you tap onto a stuck
> stud. It has what looks like a small star pattern in it. You tap it
> onto the stud and the points of the star cut right into the stud.
>>From there it has a firm grip; something I wasn't getting with the
> vice grips. I was able to put an impact socket with extension over
> the top of that. From there I put the impact wrench in reverse, said
> a small prayer that this wouldn't get any worse, and fired it up.
> After several seconds of hitting on it it broke free. A few seconds
> later it had screwed on out. I was so pumped that the impact wrench
> came in handy again (just got it a few weeks ago to help in removing
> the flywheel). A few minutes of cleaning up the area and screwing in
> the new stud, and the muffler was assembled and the jeep was ready to
> fire back up. Now my only problem is getting that stud out of my
> extractor tool.... for some reason they did not include directions on
> that : )
>
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>

 

Might I recommend a plumbers pipe wrench to grab the stud instead of
vise grips. The difference is the pipe wrench continues to grab harder
the harder you pull where the vise grips have a fixed clamping force.

The make small pipe wrenches too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jan 28, 7:59 pm, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
>> "wb" wrote...
>>> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
>>> still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
>>> assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
>>> have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>> The term your looking for is "stud".
>>
>> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
>> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
>> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>>
>> --
>> DougW
>
> What I actually ended up doing is this..
>
> I went and bought some PB blaster. I sprayed it all over the stud
> from top and bottom one night one and let it sit for a couple of
> hours. Tapped it with a hammer and resprayed and let it sit over
> night. I pulled out the vice grips the next day and could not budge
> it. So I applied more PB Blaster, ventilated the garage (this stuff
> is pretty noxious), and let it sit for a couple of hours. Tapped it
> again and tried again with the vice grips. Nothing. Did this every
> 3-4 hours for the next couple of days. After wearing off all the
> threads and having nothing left to grip on the stud, I went to Sears
> to have a gander at stud extractors. This was after the local part
> stores had nothing to loan out and nothing that looked promising on
> the shelf. I came across a sud extractor that you tap onto a stuck
> stud. It has what looks like a small star pattern in it. You tap it
> onto the stud and the points of the star cut right into the stud.
>>From there it has a firm grip; something I wasn't getting with the
> vice grips. I was able to put an impact socket with extension over
> the top of that. From there I put the impact wrench in reverse, said
> a small prayer that this wouldn't get any worse, and fired it up.
> After several seconds of hitting on it it broke free. A few seconds
> later it had screwed on out. I was so pumped that the impact wrench
> came in handy again (just got it a few weeks ago to help in removing
> the flywheel). A few minutes of cleaning up the area and screwing in
> the new stud, and the muffler was assembled and the jeep was ready to
> fire back up. Now my only problem is getting that stud out of my
> extractor tool.... for some reason they did not include directions on
> that : )
>
> Thanks to everyone for the help. I think I bought my last can of
> WD40.
>