"wb" wrote...

> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?

The term your looking for is "stud".

Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
use some vice grips to turn it out.

--
DougW

 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Tzcvh.138409$fh6.59206@newsfe13.lga...
>
> "wb" wrote...
>
> > Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually
> > have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> > still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining.
> > Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> > assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right
> > kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> > have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>
> The term your looking for is "stud".

Studs are good for this. If they weld themselves to the manifold or
whatever they are screwed into, it's a good thing. You can put some
anti-seize or thread locker on them first, but it will burn off and the stud
will rust in place eventually.

Earle

>
> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>

 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Tzcvh.138409$fh6.59206@newsfe13.lga...
>
> "wb" wrote...
>
> > Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually
> > have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> > still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining.
> > Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> > assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right
> > kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> > have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>
> The term your looking for is "stud".

Studs are good for this. If they weld themselves to the manifold or
whatever they are screwed into, it's a good thing. You can put some
anti-seize or thread locker on them first, but it will burn off and the stud
will rust in place eventually.

Earle

>
> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>

 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Tzcvh.138409$fh6.59206@newsfe13.lga...
>
> "wb" wrote...
>
> > Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually
> > have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> > still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining.
> > Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> > assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right
> > kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> > have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>
> The term your looking for is "stud".

Studs are good for this. If they weld themselves to the manifold or
whatever they are screwed into, it's a good thing. You can put some
anti-seize or thread locker on them first, but it will burn off and the stud
will rust in place eventually.

Earle

>
> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>

 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Tzcvh.138409$fh6.59206@newsfe13.lga...
>
> "wb" wrote...
>
> > Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually
> > have plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is
> > still usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining.
> > Should I be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting,
> > assuming I get it hot enough and soak it enough with the right
> > kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a headless bolt (do they
> > have a proper term for these), screwed in from underneath?
>
> The term your looking for is "stud".

Studs are good for this. If they weld themselves to the manifold or
whatever they are screwed into, it's a good thing. You can put some
anti-seize or thread locker on them first, but it will burn off and the stud
will rust in place eventually.

Earle

>
> Apply PB blaster, tap lightly with a hammer, wait half
> an hour, put on some more pb blaster, tap again, then
> use some vice grips to turn it out.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>

 

The torch is your best friend in this situation.

Carl

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:Fucvh.14209$ji1.4241@newssvr12.news.prodigy.n et...
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a water
>> displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at least
>> 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in. Grab with
>> vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts have been temp
>> cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just as brittle, that's
>> why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as possible, center punch, drill
>> with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible other wise a right handed one),
>> lots of pressure, very slow speed (250 rpm is about right). You may need
>> a couple of different sizes, drill until you hit the wall on one side,
>> pick out the pieces. Miserable job when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>>> the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
>>> no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
>>> much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
>>> going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
>>> built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
>>> care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still usable.
> It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to
> unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot enough and
> soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a
> headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these), screwed in from
> underneath?
>
> Thanks

 

The torch is your best friend in this situation.

Carl

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:Fucvh.14209$ji1.4241@newssvr12.news.prodigy.n et...
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a water
>> displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at least
>> 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in. Grab with
>> vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts have been temp
>> cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just as brittle, that's
>> why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as possible, center punch, drill
>> with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible other wise a right handed one),
>> lots of pressure, very slow speed (250 rpm is about right). You may need
>> a couple of different sizes, drill until you hit the wall on one side,
>> pick out the pieces. Miserable job when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>>> the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
>>> no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
>>> much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
>>> going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
>>> built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
>>> care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still usable.
> It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to
> unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot enough and
> soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a
> headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these), screwed in from
> underneath?
>
> Thanks

 

The torch is your best friend in this situation.

Carl

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:Fucvh.14209$ji1.4241@newssvr12.news.prodigy.n et...
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a water
>> displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at least
>> 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in. Grab with
>> vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts have been temp
>> cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just as brittle, that's
>> why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as possible, center punch, drill
>> with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible other wise a right handed one),
>> lots of pressure, very slow speed (250 rpm is about right). You may need
>> a couple of different sizes, drill until you hit the wall on one side,
>> pick out the pieces. Miserable job when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>>> the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
>>> no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
>>> much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
>>> going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
>>> built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
>>> care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still usable.
> It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to
> unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot enough and
> soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a
> headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these), screwed in from
> underneath?
>
> Thanks

 

The torch is your best friend in this situation.

Carl

"wb" <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:Fucvh.14209$ji1.4241@newssvr12.news.prodigy.n et...
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a water
>> displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at least
>> 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in. Grab with
>> vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts have been temp
>> cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just as brittle, that's
>> why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as possible, center punch, drill
>> with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible other wise a right handed one),
>> lots of pressure, very slow speed (250 rpm is about right). You may need
>> a couple of different sizes, drill until you hit the wall on one side,
>> pick out the pieces. Miserable job when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts onto
>>> the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one off with
>>> no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a little too
>>> much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped on me. I was
>>> going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the bolts seem to
>>> built into manifold itself. What's the best course of action to take
>>> care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still usable.
> It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I be able to
> unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot enough and
> soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I replace it with a
> headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these), screwed in from
> underneath?
>
> Thanks

 

Lots of penetrant, judious heat, tap tap, more penetrant, repeat over
several days. Get a brand new Vice Grip (by brand, no import junk!) and
give it a go. I've had one come out with a major screech on the second
day of swearing at it. Good luck.

Replace with a suitable stud from dealer or NAPA. It would be a good
idea to run a suitable tap into the hole to clean out the crud first. I
expect it will be a 3/8"-16 NC thread.

wb wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Next time use a GOOD lubricant like Kroil or BP blaster. WD-40 is a
>> water displacing solvent that has little effect of tough rust.
>>
>> For this time, I'd hit it with the Kroil or PB, let it sit for at
>> least 10 minutes, heat it up some, more PB, let the pentrant soak in.
>> Grab with vice grips. Drilling out is a very last resort. The bolts
>> have been temp cycled so many times they are hard as files. (and just
>> as brittle, that's why it snapped). Grind the head as flat as
>> possible, center punch, drill with a LEFT HANDED drill (if possible
>> other wise a right handed one), lots of pressure, very slow speed (250
>> rpm is about right). You may need a couple of different sizes, drill
>> until you hit the wall on one side, pick out the pieces. Miserable job
>> when working upside down.
>>
>> wb wrote:
>>
>>> I was removing the nuts from two bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts
>>> onto the exhaust header. I had used some WD40 on them and got one
>>> off with no issues. I was loosening the other nut when I applied a
>>> little too much pressure (but it wasn't a lot) when the bolt snapped
>>> on me. I was going to replace the bolt and nut but realized that the
>>> bolts seem to built into manifold itself. What's the best course of
>>> action to take care of this problem? It is an 88 Wrangler.
>>>
>>> -Will
>
>
> Yeah, I realized the WD40 is not the best for rust. I actually have
> plenty of bolt left to grab on to, but not enough that it is still
> usable. It snapped, with a little less than half remaining. Should I
> be able to unscrew it from the manifold fitting, assuming I get it hot
> enough and soak it enough with the right kind of lubricant? Do I
> replace it with a headless bolt (do they have a proper term for these),
> screwed in from underneath?
>
> Thanks