You could be right:

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...rakes03/valve/

JimG

"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom

 

You could be right:

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...rakes03/valve/

JimG

"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom

 

You could be right:

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...rakes03/valve/

JimG

"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom

 

As everyone has said you need to bleed the air from your cylinders,
the only need to pump. Check to see if your hot shot mechanic was
dyslexic, as many of us are that get steered to grease monkey status, by
double checking the bleeder is at the top of the cylinders. Like maybe a
right wheel cylinder is on the left side and visa versa. This happens
all the time, especially if the axle was assemble off the car.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

sm3gurpal wrote:
>
> I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
>
> However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> trouble.
>
> I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
>
> The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> ideas?
>
> The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> done.

 

As everyone has said you need to bleed the air from your cylinders,
the only need to pump. Check to see if your hot shot mechanic was
dyslexic, as many of us are that get steered to grease monkey status, by
double checking the bleeder is at the top of the cylinders. Like maybe a
right wheel cylinder is on the left side and visa versa. This happens
all the time, especially if the axle was assemble off the car.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

sm3gurpal wrote:
>
> I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
>
> However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> trouble.
>
> I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
>
> The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> ideas?
>
> The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> done.

 

As everyone has said you need to bleed the air from your cylinders,
the only need to pump. Check to see if your hot shot mechanic was
dyslexic, as many of us are that get steered to grease monkey status, by
double checking the bleeder is at the top of the cylinders. Like maybe a
right wheel cylinder is on the left side and visa versa. This happens
all the time, especially if the axle was assemble off the car.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

sm3gurpal wrote:
>
> I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
>
> However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> trouble.
>
> I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
>
> The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> ideas?
>
> The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> done.

 

If you pump up the brakes and then keep a slight pressure on the pedal
does it hold or slowly drop to the floor?
If it drops in pressure you probably do need a new master cyl. and it
would be a good time to try a bigger master cyl.

I have done some reading and it seems you are not the only one with
this problem. They mention some of the same thoughts like a tougher
master cyl also mentioned is adjustments to the proportioning valve.

I suspect this guy has bled the brakes a few times just to be sure you
don't have some trapped air in the system, maybe they need to be
vacuum bled in the new configuration.


http://groups.google.ca/groups?q=rea...ing.net&rnum=1





On 4 Jan 2004 07:04:18 -0800, elambeth@hotmail.com (sm3gurpal) wrote:

>I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
>drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
>some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
>
>However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
>MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
>to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
>the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
>last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
>brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
>a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
>trouble.
>
>I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
>brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
>noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
>
>The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
>master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
>probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
>demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
>upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
>enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
>(otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
>tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
>what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
>ideas?
>
>The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
>and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
>think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
>( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
>and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
>to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
>done.

 

If you pump up the brakes and then keep a slight pressure on the pedal
does it hold or slowly drop to the floor?
If it drops in pressure you probably do need a new master cyl. and it
would be a good time to try a bigger master cyl.

I have done some reading and it seems you are not the only one with
this problem. They mention some of the same thoughts like a tougher
master cyl also mentioned is adjustments to the proportioning valve.

I suspect this guy has bled the brakes a few times just to be sure you
don't have some trapped air in the system, maybe they need to be
vacuum bled in the new configuration.


http://groups.google.ca/groups?q=rea...ing.net&rnum=1





On 4 Jan 2004 07:04:18 -0800, elambeth@hotmail.com (sm3gurpal) wrote:

>I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
>drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
>some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
>
>However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
>MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
>to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
>the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
>last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
>brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
>a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
>trouble.
>
>I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
>brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
>noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
>
>The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
>master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
>probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
>demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
>upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
>enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
>(otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
>tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
>what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
>ideas?
>
>The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
>and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
>think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
>( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
>and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
>to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
>done.

 

If you pump up the brakes and then keep a slight pressure on the pedal
does it hold or slowly drop to the floor?
If it drops in pressure you probably do need a new master cyl. and it
would be a good time to try a bigger master cyl.

I have done some reading and it seems you are not the only one with
this problem. They mention some of the same thoughts like a tougher
master cyl also mentioned is adjustments to the proportioning valve.

I suspect this guy has bled the brakes a few times just to be sure you
don't have some trapped air in the system, maybe they need to be
vacuum bled in the new configuration.


http://groups.google.ca/groups?q=rea...ing.net&rnum=1





On 4 Jan 2004 07:04:18 -0800, elambeth@hotmail.com (sm3gurpal) wrote:

>I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
>drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
>some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
>
>However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
>MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
>to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
>the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
>last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
>brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
>a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
>trouble.
>
>I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
>brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
>noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
>
>The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
>master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
>probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
>demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
>upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
>enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
>(otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
>tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
>what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
>ideas?
>
>The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
>and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
>think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
>( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
>and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
>to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
>done.

 

Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
then the proportioning valve, then MC.



"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
I've
> > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
older
> > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too small.
> I'd
> > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't fix
> it,
> > upgrade the MC.
> >
> > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > >
> > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> > > trouble.
> > >
> > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > ideas?
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > done.
> >
> >
>
>